> 


pRflNKLIN 


Institute  Library 


Class. .ic.T./         Book.E.3..5''5        Accession... 9. '?:.3.. 


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\ 


Digitized  by 

the  Internet  Archive 

in  2015 

https://archive.org/details/artofcoppersmithOOfull_0 


Art  of  Coppersmithing. 


A  PRACTICAL  TREATISE  ON  WORKING  SHEET 
COPPER  INTO  ALL  FORMS. 


By 

JOHN    FULLER,  Sr. 


PUBLISHED  BY 

DAVID  WILLIAMS, 
96-102  Reade  Street,  New  York. 
1894. 


» •    *  •  • 


•  • « • 
•  •  •  • 


Copyrighted,  1893,  by  John  Fuller,  Sr. 


IHE  GETTY  CENTER 
LIBRARY 


DEDICATED 

THE  MEMORY  0/  my  Father,  to 
whose  early  instrtiction  much  of  the 
following  work  is  due :  and  to  the  Boys 
of  the  Copper  Trade,  in  the  hope  that 
it  may  assist  them  to  acquire  pro- 
ficiency in  the  art  of  Copper  Work- 
ing, 


TO  THE  READER. 


When  a  boy  between  the  age  of  nine  and  fifteen  years,  struggling 
along  with  my  father,  trying  to  be  what  was  then  called  a  Tinman 
and  Brazier,  I  was  compelled  by  circumstances  to  encounter  many 
stumbling  blocks  and  overcome  many  obstacles  in  the  way  of  educa- 
tion. It  will  be  noticed  in  the  opening  pages  of  this  work  that  the 
writer  was  but  a  mere  child  when,  like  thousands  of  other  children, 
he  commenced  to  handle  tools,  not  toys.  As  my  childish  mind  began  to 
develop  and  inquire  into  the  whys  and  wherefores  of  things  about  me, 
I  also  began  to  look  for  a  source  of  information,  beyond  the  shop,  to 
assist  me  to  fill  the  position  it  seemed  I  was  destined  to  occupy  with 
a  hope  of  some  degree  of  distinction  (for  most  children  have  aspira- 
tions). My  search  was  incessant,  and  not  altogether  in  vain,  because 
among  the  vast  amount  of  chaff  searched  I  found  occasionally  a  golden 
grain,  which  was  laid  up  in  the  storehouse  of  my  mind. 

I  jotted  down  instinctively  in  my  memory  each  practical  lesson 
learned  in  the  shop,  which  was  my  only  record.  After  using  every 
means  at  my  command  to  obtain  the  education  necessary,  wrestling 
in  the  little  spare  time  allotted  to  me  in  the  evening  with  such  books 
as  came  in  my  way,  storing  my  mind  indefinitely  for  several  years 
with  whatever  seemed  likely  to  be  useful,  I  went  to  London.  Here 
I  ransacked  every  old  book  stall  I  could  find,  hoping  to  find  some 
^uide  to  the  copper  trade  ;  but  all  in  vain.    I  never  discovered  a  line  to 


help  me.  I  then  resolved  to  exert  every  effort  to  acquire  the  neces- 
sary ability,  so  that  when  a  favorable  opportunity  should  offer  I  could 
give  my  experience  for  the  benefit  of  boys  placed  in  the  same  unfortu- 
nate position  as  myself. 

And  while  the  aspirations  of  my  youth  died  away  amid  the  busy 
turmoil  of  mechanical  life,  and  smoldered  for  years  (with  an  occasional 
burst  of  warmth),  the  thoughts  were  still  cherished,  and  I  began  without 
any  preparation,  save  my  memory,  to  give  the  helpless  boys  of  the 
trade  reliable  instruction  in  things  they  should  know  in  starting  out  to 
acquire  the  "  Art  of  Coppersmithing."  I  did  my  best  to  tell  from  my 
own  experience,  in  the  most  lucid  manner,  that  which  is  being  called  for 
in  everyday  life,  in  three  separate  branches  of  the  copper  trade,  sup- 
posing with  each  lesson  there  was  a  good  boy  at  my  side.  I  am  pleased 
with  the  result  of  my  first  effort,  which  was  in  a  measure  impromptu. 
It  will  not,  however,  make  Coppersmiths  of  any  one  without  effort  and 
application,  but  I  trust  it  will  be  a  help  to  all  who  have  need  of  assist- 
ance, and  be  an  incentive  to  boys  to  exercise  whatever  talents  they 
may  possess  for  their  own  benefit  and  that  of  others  less  fortunate. 

Before  closing  my  few  introductory  remarks  I  desire  to  tender 
thanks  to  The  Metal  Worker  for  the  opportunity  afforded  me  for 
the  consummation  of  my  work. 

John  Fuller,  Sr. 

Seneca^  Kansas. 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


Page. 

Historical  Sketch  of  Copper   i 

Braziers'  Art,  or  Light  Coppersmithing   6 

First  Year's  Experience   14 

Repairing  and  Tinning   17 

The  Boy's  Second  Year   22 

Making  Washing  Coppers   26 

Making  Small  Brewing  Coppers   31 

Table  of  Dimensions  and  Capacity   33 

Making  Hand  Bowls   35 

Making  Frying  Pans   42 

Making  Closet  Pans   45 

Making  Water  Balls   47 

Mounting  for  Copper  Goods   50 

Glue  Pots  and  Tea-Kettles   61 

Oval  Tea-Kettles   69 

Beer  Mullers   71 

Funnels   80 

Coffee  Pots   83 

Saucepans  and  Pudding  Pots   87 

Stewpans   93 

Stock  Pots    99 

Fish  Kettles  102 

Brazing  Pans  104 


Vi  CONTENTS. 

Page. 

Tea  Boilers  -  107 

•      Warming  Pans  112 

Preserving  Pans  117 

Dripping  Pans  118 

Coal  Scoops  and  Coal  Hods  122 

Making  Coal  Scoops  128 

Planishing  and  Smoothing  148 

Cranes  or  Syphons  151 

Pumps  154 

Appliances  of  Railway  and  Marine  Coppersmiths  162 

Making  Copper  Pipe  171 

Piecing  and  Joining  Pipes  173 

The  Fire  Pots  176 

Fire  Pot  Set  for  Brazing  Joint  178 

Soft  Soldering  Large  Joints  ,  180 

Taking  Templates  183 

Filling  and  Bending  183 

Making  Bends  186 

Template  Boards  191 

Patching  Pipes  196 

Outlets  199 

Expansion  Joints  204 

Tee  Pieces  219 

Three- Way  Pieces  211 

Cross  or  Four-way  Pieces  213 

Saddle  Fire  217 

Marine  Work  219 

View  of  Maudsley,  Sons  &  Field's  Shop  221,  222 

Making  Large  Bends  224 


CONTENTS.  vii 

Page. 

Making  Double  Bends  227 

Brazing  on  Flanges  230 

Short  Bends  232 

Air  Pipes  for  Ships  234 

Making  Hollow  Spheres  241 

Brazing  Sheet  Brass  248 

Locomotive  Brass  Work    252 

Brass  Dome  Covers  ,  262 

Heavy  Pipes  for  Breweries  270 

Brewing  Coppers  or  Kettles  282 

Dome  Coppers  294 

Dome  and  Pan  Coppers    300 

Tallow  Coppers  302 

Dyers'  Coppers  308 

Sugar  Tieches  312 

Stills  313 

Index  318 


HISTORICAL  SKETCH   OF  COPPER. 


Copper  is  one  of  the  most  important  of  the  seven  metals  mentioned 
by  ancient  historians.  It  was  known  probably  before  the  time  of 
Tubal  Cain,  who  was  well  acquainted  with  its  uses  and  an  educator  of 
workers  in  brass  and  iron.  Grecian  historians  say  that  Cadmus  dis- 
covered copper  and  taught  its  application  to  the  wants  of  his  country- 
men. It  was  brought  to  notice  on  the  island  of  Euboea,  near  the  city 
of  Chalkis,  and  thus  we  may  suppose  the  Grecians  gave  it  the  name  of 
chalcos,  by  which  name  the  metal  was  known  to  Homer  and  other  ancient 
authors.  The  old  Romans  knew  copper  as  aes  cyprum^  and  later  as  cypruin^ 
names  apparently  derived  from  that  of  the  island  of  Cyprus, where  Pliny 
says  the  art  of  working  it  was  first  discovered.  It  is  certain  that 
upon  this  island  the  Phenicians  had  opened  copper  mines  at  a  very 
early  period.  Hence,  in  the  mystic  nomenclature  of  the  old  alchemists, 
copper  received  the  name  of  Venus,  the  goddess  to  whom  Cyprus 
was  sacred,  and  among  their  signs  it  was  known  by  the  astronomi- 
cal sign  of  that  planet,  $ .  The  English  word  copper^  the  German 
kupper,  the  Spanish  cobre  and  the  French  cuivre  were  probably  intro- 
duced into  those  languages  during  the  middle  ages  and  seem  but 
slight  modifications  of  the  Latin  name.  Copper  is  mentioned  in  the 
oldest  records  and  appears  to  have  been  one  of  the  first  metals  brought 
into  use  by  mankind.  We  are  led  to  this  conclusion  by  the  con- 
sideration  of  its  nature  and  the  probable  manner  of  its  occurrence. 
Masses  of  native  metal,  separated  by  water  from  the  original  beds 
<^  and  deposited  by  floods  in  spots  where  warlike  people  sought  mate- 
s' rials  from  which  to  make  their  rude  weapons  would,  by  their  weight, 
Q  color,  luster  and  malleability,  «iuickly  attract  attention.  These 
^  qualities,  in  connection  with  the  fact  that  pure  native  copper  is 
often  detached  in  masses  of  considerable  size,  make  it  more  than 
q5  probable  that  this  metal  was  the  first  upon  which  the  unskilled 
attempts  of  the  primitive  smiths  and  smelters  were  made.  It  is 
generally  assumed,  without  any  authentic  evidence  to  support  the 
assumption,  that  the  ancient  workers  in  copper  had  some  particular 
alloy  of  tin  and  copper  which  they  made  so  hard  that  they  were 


2 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


able  to  cut  the  hardest  rocks,  and  the  remains*  of  large  temples, 
whose  columns  were  of  porphyry  and  syenite,  seem  almost  incapable 
of  any  explanation  except  by  this  supposition.  Another  fact  in  con- 
nection therewith  challenging  examination  is  that  the  Incas  in  Peru, 
although  unable  to  make  any  use  of  the  iron  ores  which  lay  pro- 
fusely about  them,  were  familiar  with  the  special  properties  of  this 
particular  hard  alloy  of  copper  and  tin  and  made  it  in  proportions 
almost  the  same  as  those  which  the  ancients  adopted  in  the  Old 
World,  using  it  to  construct  the  tools  necessary  for  cutting  the  stones 
required  in  the  building  of  their  immense  aqueducts  and  temples. 
Whether  the  Phenicians,  who  carried  tin  from  Britain,  acquired  the 
knowledge  of  making  bronze  there  is  not  certain  ;  but  it  may  prob- 
ably be  assumed  that  the  weapons  and  tools  of  bronze  found  in  the 
graves  of  some  ancient  race  in  various  European  lands,  and  which 
are  known  to  be  Celtic  remains,  were  taken  by  wandering  tribes  from 
that  region  of  Britain  where  at  the  present  day  the  descendants  of 
the  same  Celts  have  been  and  are  possibly  to-day  among  the  largest 
copper  refiners  on  the  globe;  and  there  the  richest,  and  until 
recently  the  only  known,  tin  region  within  thousands  of  miles  occurs. 

Uses  of  Copper. 

In  the  construction  as  well  as  the  beautifying  of  public  buildings 
copper,  bronze  and  brass  have  all  played  an  important  part,  the 
roof  being  covered  with  copper,  the  monuments  dedicated  to  the  hon- 
ored dead  being  of  bronze  and  the  decoration  of  their  walls  artistic- 
ally executed  in  brass.  The  invention  of  gunpowder  and  the  intro- 
duction of  bronze  cannon,  which  were  used  in  the  fourteenth  and  fif- 
teenth centuries,  added  greatly  to  the  increasing  value  and  stimulated 
the  production  of  copper,  and  as  civilization  advanced  the  desire  for  a 
metal  similar  in  its  properties  and  beauty  to  gold  and  silver  rapidly 
increased  until  there  is  scarcely  a  branch  of  human  industry  where 
copper  is  not  an  important  factor  in  the  means  of  arriving  at  or  secur- 
ing greater  perfection.  It  is  employed  in  nearly  all  kinds  of  machin- 
ery, either  pure  or  as  a  compound.  We  see  it  in  the  hands  of  the  mu- 
sician, in  the  construction  of  mathematical  instruments  and  instru- 
ments for  the  astronomer,  adding  to  the  security  of  sailing-ships  and 
contributing  its  share  in  the  internal  construction  of  ocean  steamers 
that  ply  between  the  Old  and  the  New  World,  besides  furnishing  a  path 
for  the  electric  current  in  its  journey  from  continent  to  continent  in 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


3 


the  service  and  extension  of  civilization.  It  supplies  a  reagent  for  the 
chemist  and  gives  the  physician  a  remedy  against  disease.  The  elec- 
tro-metallurgist uses  it  to  catch  and  make  prominent  the  evanescent 
forms  ot  nature  and  art.  The  dyer,  the  cook,  the  brewer  and  distiller, 
use  it,  and  in  many  other  important  industries  it  is  in  constant  consump- 
tion, while  almost  every  advance  in  science  adds  to  the  number  of  its 
applications. 

Copper  Mines. 

At  Newlands,  near  Reswick,  in  Cumberland,  England,  some  rich 
mines  of  copper  were  worked  as  early  as  1250,  and  it  seems  that  in 
1470  this  place  was  still  famous  for  the  amount  of  metal  it  produced. 
Ecton  Hill,  in  Staffordshire,  was  another  place  where  copper  was  ob- 
tained in  abundance  before  the  era  of  copper-mining  in  Cornwall.  It 
is  somewhat  interesting  and  amusing,  in  the  light  of  passing  events 
when  searching  into  the  history  and  development  of  the  mineral  re- 
sources of  England,  to  meet  with  acts  of  Parliament  passed  in  the 
reigns  of  Henry  VIII  and  Edward  VI  for  the  purpose  ot  preventing 
the  export  of  copper  and  brass,  ''lest  there  should  not  be  metal  enough 
in  the  kingdom  fit  for  making  guns  and  other  engines  of  war  and  for 
household  utensils  ;  "  and  then  down  to  so  late  a  date  as  1708  we  find  a 
memorial  presented  to  the  House  of  Commons  by  the  workers  in  brass, 
stating  that ''  England  by  reason  of  the  inexhaustible  plenty  of  cala- 
mine might  become  the  staple  of  brass  manufacture  for  itself  and  for- 
eign parts,  and  that  the  continuing  the  brass  works  of  England  would 
occasion  plenty  of  rough  copper  to  be  brought  in." 

At  this  time  nearly  all  the  copper  used  in  England  came  from  the 
Continent,  principally  from  Hungary,  and  not  till  17 17  do  we  read  of 
English  pennies  being  made  from  English  copper.  About  the  close  of 
the  seventeenth  century  the  attention  of  Cornish  tin-miners  was  drawn 
to  the  more  valuable  cupreous  deposits  around  them;  previous  to  that 
time  copper  ore  had  been  of  little  value,  and  was  sold  under  the  name 
of  poder,  but  this  was  produced  from  mines  originally  opened  and 
worked  for  tin.  The  yellow  pyrites  of  copper  was  the  first  ore  recog- 
nized as  valuable  by  the  miner;  the  richer  black  oxide  of  copper  was 
considered  as  worthless,  and  tons  of  it  were  thrown  into  the  sea  or 
left  in  the  lodes  to  reward  the  later  and  wiser  explorers.  Deposits  be- 
gan gradually  to  be  opened  for  the  copper  they  contained  about  the 
beginning  of  the  last  century,  and  from  that  time  to  the  present  the 


4 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


produce  of  the  ore  has  steadily  increased,  as  well  as  the  consumption 
of  the  metal  taken  from  it.  The  discovery  of  the  rich  mines  in  Angle- 
sea  in  1768  was  followed  by  the  addition  of  Devonshire  and  Ireland  to 
the  number  of  copper-producing  regions,  and  later  on  irr.mense  quan- 
tities of  ore  were  imported  from  Cuba,  Chili  and  the  Pacific  islands. 

The  Smelting  of  Copper. 

The  advantage  of  sending  ores  to  be  smelted  in  the  rich  coal  dis- 
tricts of  Wales  was  very  early  perceived,  and  even  in  1586,  according 
to  Carew,  copper  ore  was  shipped  there  from  Cornwall.  In  1765 
several  furnaces  were  in  existence  near  Bristol — still  famous  for  its 
brass — and  several  others  along  the  coast  westward.  The  various  proc- 
esses then  in  use  appear  to  have  been  almost  the  same  as  that  prac- 
ticed as  late  as  1865  and  known  as  the  English  method  of  smelting 
copper;  and  considering  the  complex  natuie  of  the  many  operations 
which  it  includes  and  the  remarkable  difference  that  exists  between 
those  practiced  at  that  time  in  all  other  refining  countries,  we  cannot 
help  admiring  the  ingenuity  and  judgment  of  those  old  metallurgists 
who,  aided  only  by  their  own  observation,  worked  a  system  which, 
while  so  well  adapted  to  all  the  circumstances  of  the  locality,  can  be 
used  in  the  treatment  of  every  known  variety  of  ore  and  has  withstood, 
with  scarce  a  change,  the  keenest  research  of  modern  science. 

American  Copper  Mines. 

In  America  copper  in  paying  quantities  has  been  found  in  nearly 
every  State  through  which  run  the  Appalachian  chain  of  mountains. 
The  oldest  incorporated  mining  company  appears  to  have  been  one 
for  the  purpose  of  reducing  ores  m  Connecticut,  the  date  of  whose 
charter  is  1709.  But  all  other  deposits  sufficiently  developed  to  assure 
a  definite  knowledge  of  their  value  are  exceeded  by  those  which  within 
the  last  25  years  have  been  opened  in  California,  Arizona,  New  Mexico 
and  in  particular  in  Montana  and  upon  the  shores  of  Lake  Superior. 
That  this  wonderful  lake  region  was  occupied  by  a  race  which  existed 
at  a  time  prior  to  the  earliest  authentic  aboriginal  history  is  evident 
from  the  remains  which  still  exist  of  gangways,  tools,  and  other  proofs 
of  skill  which  the  races  occupying  the  country  at  the  time  of  its  dis- 
covery nowhere  make  manifest.  The  Indians  met  by  the  first  trav- 
elers were  quite  ignorant  of  the  methods  of  working  that  had  been 
practiced  by  the  former  race  ;  they  could  give  no  accounts  to  explain 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


5 


the  numerotis  excavations,  and  what  copper  they  possessed  was  gath- 
ered from  the  surface  stones.  The  first  record  of  the  deposits  is 
found  in  the  missionary  report  of  the  Society  of  Jesus  for  1659-60. 
The  natives  had  then  rude  utensils  made  from  this  metal,  and  large 
blocks  of  it  were  erected  and  worshiped  among  their  gods.  In  1768 
an  Englishman  named  Henry,  a  practical  man,  carefully  examined 
the  old  works  at  great  risk,  on  account  of  the  native  hostility,  and  in 
177 1  established  works  which  were  operated  a  short  time  only  and 
then  abandoned.  The  later  and  more  successful  mining  era  begins 
about  the  year  1844.  The  careful  inspection  of  competent  scientific 
men  made  those  regions  gradually  known  to  the  world,  and  practical 
miners  who  were  drawn  thither  by  the  reports  of  mineral  wealth 
soon  discovered  large  blocks  of  copper  permeated  with  silver.  A  great 
excitement  was  caused  among  adventurers  and  capitalists,  who  formed 
companies  in  various  parts  of  the  world  to  work  in  localities  of  which 
not  even  a  survey  had  been  made.  In  1847,  however,  the  crisis  came, 
and  of  the  then  hundreds  of  nominally  existing  companies  only  six 
were  found  actually  engaged  in  mining.  The  results  of  these  early 
disasters  have  gradually  disappeared.  Since  then  the  progress  of  this 
region  has  been  healthy  and  profitable. 


6 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


THE  BRAZIER'S  ART,  OR  LIGHT  COPPERSMITHING. 

The  brazier's  art,  or  the  working  of  light  sheet-copper  into  vessels 
for  cooking  and  articles  for  ornamental  purposes,  must  have  engaged 
the  attention  of  man  from  the  earliest  periods  of  his  civilization,  for 
among  the  ancient  art  treasures  in  the  British  Museum  in  London 
may  be  seen  many  very  fine  and  interesting  specimens  of  Oriental 
work,  illustrating  vividly  to  a  practical  eye  the  skill  and  ingenuity 
which  had  been  exercised  by  the  primitive  craftsmen  in  the  produc- 
tion of  armor,  cooking  utensils,  lamps,  vases  and  a  great  variety  of 
articles  for  personal  adornment  taken  from  the  tombs  of  ancient  Egypt, 
Babylon  and  various  parts  of  India  and  other  places.  Judging  from 
their  preservation  and  the  beautiful  work  displayed  on  them  they 
must  have  played  an  important  part  in  illustrating  the  exalted  posi- 
tions held  by  their  prehistoric  owners,  as  well  as  the  social  standing  of 
the  artist.  It  would  seem  that  for  thousands  of  years  this  ancient 
handicraft  has  been  handed  down  from  father  to  son,  and  even  to-day 
many  of  the  arts  connected  with  special  branches  of  brazing  are  as 
jealously  guarded  and  kept  secret  with  the  craft  as  they  were  at  the 
very  dawn  of  its  development.  One  of  the  most  imperative  injunc- 
tions received  by  the  writer  from  "his  father  was  to  faithfully  guard 
his  patrimony  from  the  scrutiny  of  prying  eyes,  it  having  descended 
to  him  through  a  long  line  of  ancestors  for  many  generations,  who  had 
plied  their  craft  with  various  degrees  of  proficiency,  thus  maintaining 
their  respectability  and  independence  to  an  honorable  old  age,  in  evi- 
dence of  which  in  Canterbury,  England,  four  years  ago  one  of  his  kins- 
folk could  yet  be  seen  working  at  the  brazier's  bench  at  the  advanced 
age  of  87  years.  But  having  been  imbued  with  more  liberal 
ideas  by  coming  in  contact  with  and  feeling  my  indebtedness  to  many 
other  men  from  whom  we  are  compelled  to  borrow  more  or  less,  I  have 
concluded  to  waive  the  injunction  received  in  childhood  for  the  ben- 
efit of  those  who  are  most  interested.  I  will  now  try  to  describe  a 
brazier's  shop  in  an  old  country  town,  together  with  the  tools  used 
therein,  and  give  such  lessons  in  the  art  of  braziery  as  I  can  recall  to 
memory  to  assist  as  far  as  practicable  the  learner  to  become  profi- 
cient. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


7 


An  Old-Fashioned  Shop. 


In  the  beautiful  little  town  of  Dorking,  in  the  county  of  Surrey, 
England,  could  be  seen  an  old-fashioned  iron-monger's  shop,  with  the 
usual  stock  of  copper  goods,  comprising  stew-pans,  saucepans,  pre- 
serving-pans, frying-pans,  omelet-pans,  cutlet-pans,  dripping-pans, 
warming-pans,  tea-kettles,  fish-kettles,  turbot-kettles,  coffee-pots,  pud- 
ding-pots, stock-pots,  tea-boilers,  tankards,  spirit-measures,  coal-scoops, 
coal-hods,  beer-mullers,  washing-coppers,  hand-bowls  and  a  variety  of 
goods  displayed  in  a  tasteful  manner  in  a  spacious  show-room  win- 
dow. In  the  rear  of  this  iron-monger's  shop  (hardware  store)  was  once 
a  busy  hive  of  some  25  or  30  men  and  boys  engaged  as  blacksmiths, 
whitesmiths,  tinsmiths,  gunsmiths,  coppersmiths  and  braziers,  each 
department  separate  and  distinct  in  itself.  We  will  now  visit  this  old 
brazier's  shop,  with  which  we  have  the  more  special  interest,  look 
about  it,  and  endeavor  to  describe  the  interior  as  it  was  some  40  years 
ago  and  as  it  probably  is  to-day,  or  at  least  as  it  was  in  1884,  hoping  it 
may  benefit  and  interest  the  younger  members  of  the  craft.  As  shown 
in  the  plan  view.  Fig.  i,  the  door  is  facing  east,  and  the  room  is  some 
25  feet  square,  with  an  east-window  light;  on  the  north  side  is  a  brick 
forge,  Fig.  2,  about  4  feet  6  inches  square,  the  chimney  of  which  is 
built  in  the  shape  of  a  square  pyramid  and  covers  the  whole  hearth; 
the  fire-place  or  fire-hole  is  about  12  inches  square  and  some  6  inches 
deep,  and  set  about  2  feet  from  the  front  of  the  hearth  and  the  same 
distance  from  the  wall  that  carries  the  west  side  of  the  cone  of  the 
chimney;  on  the  west  side  of  this  wall  the  bellows  are  hung,  and  at 
the  back  of  the  bellows  are  placed  three  covered  pickle-tubs  containing 
severally  sulphuric  acid,  muriatic  acid  and  salt  pickles.  Along  the 
south  wall  and  under  the  east  window  are  the  benches.  Fig,  3,  with 
vises  attached;  on  the  east  side  of  the  forge  is  the  scouring-sink,  which 
is  some  3  feet  long,  and  placed  there  so  the  fumes  of  the  various  acids 
in  daily  use  may  be  carried  off  by  the  draft  of  the  chimney;  there 
should  be  a  good  supply  of  water  at  hand  for  rinsing  purposes, 
which  is  carried  off  by  the  drain-pipe  running  to  the  sewers.  At  the 
back  of  the  sink  are  a  few  shelves  to  hold  spelter-boxes,  mortar  and 
pestle,  and  a  few  covered  jars  containing  sal  ammoniac  and  borax.  In 
the  chimney- wall  are  driven  a  number  of  square  hoops  upon  which  are 
hung  ladles,  sal  ammoniac  wads  of  various  sizes  and  the  different  kinds 
and  sizes  of  tongs.    The  rocking-shaf t  of  the  bellows  is  supplied  with 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  I .  —  Ground  Plan  of  Old  Shop. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


II 


12 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


a  chain  and  stirrup  so  that  the  workman  may  easily  work  the  bellows 
with  his  left  foot,  leaving  his  hands  free  for  his  work  at  the  fire.  On 
the  east  side  of  the  shop  is  the  main  work -bench,  upon  which  is  fast- 
ened an  old  contrivance  for  turning  stove  and  other  pipe  which  I 
think  may  claim  to  be  the  parent  of  the  rollers  now  in  use  in  the  modern 
tin-shop.  This  primitive  contrivance  is  a  round  bar  having  the  ends 
turned  square  about  5  inches,  flattened  and  then  bolted  to  the  bench, 
leaving  a  space  between  it  and  the  edge  of  the  bench  wide  enough  to 
get  the  sheet  iron  or  copper  between,  the  workman  forming  the  pipe 
by  bending  the  sheet  over  the  bar  with  the  leverage  of  the  metal.  On  the 
south  end  of  this  bench  and  on  the  south  wall  is  a  cupboard  with  sev- 
eral shelves,  in  which  is  kept  the  bright-heads,  dry  spelter,  borax,  rosin, 
flax  and  hemp  tow,  block  and  grain  tin,  solder  and  other  little  necessities, 
so  that  they  may  always  be  in  store  and  be  kept  clean  and  always 
ready  for  use.  The  east  bench  is  continued  along  the  south  wall  about 
half  way  and  the  remaining  part  taken  up  by  the  heavy  tools,  such  as 
beak-horns,  shanks  and  side-stakes,  along  the  wall.  Over  this  part  of 
the  bench  is  a  file-rack  and  further  on  is  a  long  hammer-rack,  the  other 
space  being  variously  taken  up  by  hanging  patterns  on  hooks  in  the 
wall.  On  the  west  side  Fig.  4  is  the  coke-bin,  and  a  large  box,  about 
two-thirds  full  of  sawdust,  used  to  wipe  off  or  dry  work  in  after  it  has 
been  scoured  clean  The  next  is  a  large  box  containing  a  full  and 
complete  stock  of  patterns,  kept  together  on  rings  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  they  are  in  the  shops  of  the  present  day.  In  the  middle 
of  the  floor  is  the  heavy  tool-block  which  is  about  16  inches 
wide  by  6  or  8  inches  thick  and  some  6  or  8  feet  long,  usually 
of  beech  wood,  and  having  pieces  of  wood  nailed  to  it  to  an- 
swer as  feet  to  keep  the  block  off  the  floor  and  the  holes  which  re- 
ceive the  tools  free  from  dirt  and  chips,  so  that  no  impediment  be  in 
the  way  of  tools  placed  therein.  This  stock  of  tools  is  comprised  in 
and  named  as  follows  :  Large  and  small  round  bottom-stakes,  tea- 
kettle-bottom stake,  tea-kettle  shank  with  heads,  sauce-pan-belly  stake 
with  single  and  double  end,  bent  and  upright  bullet-stakes,  side-stakes, 
large  and  small ;  funnel-stake,  hatchet-stake,  beak-irons,  crease-irons, 
anvil  and  heavy  and  light  stock-shears.  These  are  all  of  the  heavy 
and  most  costly  tools  ;  the  bottom  stakes  and  the  various  kinds  of 
heads  have  bright  faces  and  must  be  kept  greased.  The  bottom-stakes 
have  lead  to  protect  them  from,  the  action  of  the  acids  constantly  in 
use.    The  various  kinds  of  hammers  used  can  better  be  described  as 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHINO. 


13 


we  proceed  and  come  to  the  vrork  for  which  they  are  adapted  and 
used  by  the  workman.  In  the  most  convenient  corner  of  the  bench 
are  kept  with  the  shears  several  round  and  square  mandrels,  from  4 
to  5  feet  long,  of  suitable  sizes,  having  their  ends  turned  down  square 
and  made  to  fit  the  holes  in  the  bench,  the  same  as  the  other  tools. 
The  small  tools  on  the  shelf  over  the  south  bench  consist  of  hollow 
punches,  chisels,  flat  punches,  rivet-sets,  groovers,  &c.  The  other  small 
tools  are  plyers,  nippers,  hand-shears,  snips,  compasses,  squares  and 
straight-edges,  a  good  assortment  of  rough  and  smooth  files  and  two 
burnishers.  Having  now  described  as  vividly  as  possible  the  interior 
of  this  old  brazier's  shop,  together  with  all  its  appurtenances,  we  will 
next  follow  an  apprentice  through  his  seven  years  of  service,  from  his 
first  two  years  of  drudgery  on  and  up  until  he  shall  have  gained  suf- 
ficient proficiency  to  take  his  place  as  a  journeyman. 


14 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


FIRST  YEAR'S  EXPERIENCE. 

On  Monday,  February  7,  1842,  in  the  town  of  Dorking,  at  6  o'clock 
in  the  morning,  could  have  been  seen  a  little  boy,  fairly  intelligent 
and  rather  larger  in  stature  than  his  tender  years  would  seem  to  indi- 
cate, who  lacked  just  46  days  to  complete  his  ninth  year.  This  little 
fellow  was  trudging  along  by  the  side  of  his  father  toward  an  old 
brazier's  shop  to  take  his  initial  step  amid  life's  busy  turmoil.  Hav- 
ing arrived  there  in  due  time  and  admission  gained,  a  light  was  the 
first  thing  in  order,  which  was  obtained  from  an  old  tinder-box  with  a 
brimstone  match,  the  light  being  transferred  to  an  old-fashioned 
whale-oil  lamp  (Fig.  5),  which  burned  after  being  lit  with  a  reddish- 
yellow  flame.  On  looking  around  the  boy  saw  that  about  everything 
seemed  black  and  forbidding,  cold  and  cheerless;  the  soot  of  half  a 
century  previous  was  still  clinging  to  those  dreary-looking  walls. 
The  next  anxiety  was  to  get  a  fire,  which  was  made  from  a  pile  of  cin- 
ders at  hand  in  the  corner  of  the  forge.  This  fire  seemed  to  offer  a 
ray  of  hope  to  the  little  fellow,  who  clung  to  the  chain  of  the  bellows 
and  kept  the  cinders  bright  enough  to  be  able  to  see  just  where  he 
was.  After  two  and  one-half  long,  weary  hours  the  bell  rang  and  the 
boy  trudged  home  to  get  his  breakfast;  and  what  a  release  it  seemed 
to  get  away,  if  but  for  30  minutes,  from  this  gloomy-looking  place 
and  revel  in  the  sunshine  while  walking  home  and  back  !  As  the 
hour  of  9  approached  he  was  wending  his  way  thither  again,  and 
from  9  until  i  o'clock  blew  the  fire,  ran  errands  and  helped  his 
father,  when  the  joyful  bell  rang  for  dinner,  for  which  an  hour  was 
allowed,  returning  at  2  o'clock  and  working  until  5,  then  going  to 
tea  tor  half  an  hour  and  back  to  work  again  until  7  o'clock,  at  which 
time  the  most  welcome  sound  of  the  whole  day  said,  Leave  until  6 
the  next  morning."  Never  did  child  go  to  bed  more  cheerfully  or  sleep 
more  soundly  than  did  that  little  hero  of  nine  summers,  and  never  did 
the  time  seem  to  fly  more  swiftly  as  the  gentle  word  summoned  him 
to  his  duties  each  succeeding  morning. 

The  first  week  was  at  length  finished,  and  on  Saturday  work  was 
left  off  an  hour  earlier ;  but  the  last  employed  were  the  last  paid,  and 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


15 


thus  the  boy  was  the  last  to  be  paid,  which  was  done  with  as  much 
ceremony  as  if  he  were  the  most  important  man.  After  paying  him 
his  3  shillings  wages  the  good  man  seemed  moved  by  pity,  for  he  spoke 
the  only  kind  word  that  had  seemed  to  greet  the  boy's  ear  (excepting 
from  his  father)  during  the  week,  and  so  the  first  week  of  the  infant's 
toil  closed.  Peter  L.  Saubergue  always  proved  a  good  and  kind 
master,  and  our  boy  learned  to  love  him  as  time  went  on.  Here  let 
us  pause  a  moment  to  consider  if  it  ought  to  have  been  then  or  is  now 
necessary  for  the  welfare  of  the  race  that  little  children  of  such  ten- 
der years  should  be  made  captive  and  brought  to  labor  while  thou- 
sands of  able-bodied  men  are  idle  around  them  waiting  for  work. 

At  the  end  of  six  months  this  boy  had  got  to  be  quite  handy  and 
was  kept  busily  engaged  breaking  coke,  sal  ammoniac  and  borax, 
charging  joints  and  drying  them  ready  for  the  fire,  thinning  edges 
and  other  little  jobs.  Then  as  each  batch  of  cooking  utensils  was 
brought  to  be  repaired  and  retinned  he  was  taught  to  burn  off  the 


Fig.  s—0 Id-Fashioned  Whale- Oil  Lamp. 


l6  ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 

grease,  apply  the  acids  and  scour  them  ready  for  the  process  of  re- 
tinning.  Then,  again,  all  the  hammers  were  required  to  be  kept  clean 
and  bright,  also  all  other  polished  tools,  all  of  them  being  carefully 
greased  with  raw  goose-grease,  which  duty  had  to  be  performed  every 
day  before  leaving  work,  because  if  a  hammer  should  get  cloudy  it 
entailed  much  labor  repolishing  on  the  buff -board  to  restore  it  suit- 
able for  use.  The  boy  labored  along  at  this  seeming  drudgery,  which 
many  boys  are  apt  to  shun  and  exert  every  effort  to  evade,  to  their 
own  detriment,  for  wrapped  up  in  this  so-called  drudgery  are  some  of 
the  most  important  features  of  every  trade. 


1 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


17 


REPAIRING   AND  TINNING. 

At  the  close  of  each  year,  before  the  Christmas  holidays  commence 
and  the  prominent  families  leave  city  resorts  for  country  homes,  all 
the  kitchen  furniture  has  to  be  overhauled,  tinned  and  repaired,  and 
all  of  these  goods  are  sent  to  the  brazier's  shop  for  this  purpose.  We 
will  now  take  a  batch  and  proceed  to  repair  them  and  then  go  on  and 
describe  the  process  of  retinning  as  it  would  be  done,  giving  the  boy 
his  share  in  the  job.  There  would  be  stew-pans,  saucepans,  frying- 
pans,  fish-kettles,  stock-pots,  ladles,  spoons,  gravy-stramers,  fish-slices 
and  a  host  of  other  things  required  for  a  complete  kitchen  outfit. 
Fig.  6  shows  a  copper  saucepan  with  curved  sides.  The  first  thing 
necessary  is  to  burn  off  the  grease  which  accumulates  under  the  flap 
of  the  handle  and  around  the  wire  of  saucepans  and  other  vessels,  and 
this  is  to  be  done  carefully,  so  that  the  articles  are  not  softened. 
They  are  made  hot  enough  so  the  gases  evolved  by  the  heat  will  just 
ignite  and  no  more,  each  piece  going  through  the  fire  in  succes- 
sion, when  they  are  brushed  off  and  examined.  If  any  of  the  handles, 
are  loose  the  old  rivets  are  taken  out  and  new  ones  put  in,  the  rivet- 
holes  being  cleaned  and  tinned  and  the  handle  then  replaced  with: 
new  tinned  copper  rivets.  It  often  happens  that  a  hole  is  worn 
through  the  lag  of  a  saucepan  or  stew-pan  by  the  constant  rubbing 
on  the  kitchen  hot-plate  or  scullery-sink.  The  damage  done  by  this 
wear  is  repaired  in  three  ways,  according  to  the  time  available,  the 
ability  or  inclination  of  the  workman,  or  the  affluence  and  dignity  of 
the  owner. 

At  one  time  it  was  the  fashion  to  finish  all  utensils  up  with  a  sharp 
lag  (Fig.  7),  and  often  careless  workmen  have  half  cut  the  lag  through 
before  completing  them  when  new.  When  they  are  in  need  of  repair- 
ing and  it  must  be  done  in  as  short  a  time  as  possible,  and  the  slit  is 
not  too  long,  say  over  2  inches  in  length,  then  at  the  extremities  of 
the  slit  punch  two  small  holes  and  slightly  open  it;  now  take  a  thin 
piece  of  sheet  copper  of  sufficient  length  and  double  it,  as  in  Fig.  8, 
then  slip  the  two  leaves  through  the  slit,  as  in  Fig.  9  or  11,  and  lay 
the  leaves  back  each  way,  as  in  Fig.  10;  then  close  the  whole  up  close. 


r8 


ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


J^ig.  lO. — Piece  Put  Through  Outside. 


Fig.  II. —  The  Piece  Put  Through  Inside. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  15. — Maimer  of  Measuring  to  Fig.  14. — Sal  Ammoniac  Wad  for 

Determine  Price.  -  Tinning. 


20 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


with  a  mallet,  letting  the  double  part,  if  inside,  go  one-half  up  the 
side  and  the  other  half  out  into  the  bottom,  as  in  Fig.  lo;  it  may  now 
be  soldered  with  spelter  or  soft  solder.  The  article  can  be  repaired  by 
making  a  shell  piece  and  riveting  it  to  its  place,  as  m  Fig.  12;  this 
kind  of  piece  may  be  of  any  length,  but  the  best  job  is  to  cut  the 
damaged  part  out  and  cramp  and  braze  a  new  piece,  as  in  Fig.  13, 
which  may  be  done  by  an  expert  hand  in  as  short  a  time  as  the  other 
two  methods,  excepting,  however,  the  cleaning  off  and  replanishing. 
New  bottoms  may  be  cramped  and  brazed  in  or  double-seamed,  as 
may  be  considered  expedient. 

When  all  the  repairing  is  complete  and  the  bruises  taken  out  and 
the  bottoms  of  the  stew-pans  and  saucepans  and  the  like  are  laid  flat 
or  made  level  the  preparation  for  retinning  properly  begins.  We  com- 
mence with  the  application  of  a  coat  of  pure  commercial  muriatic  acid 
to  eat  off  or  remove  the  dirt  and  the  portions  of  the  old  or  previous 
tinning.  When  the  vessels  have  stood  a  sufficient  time  they  are  thor- 
oughly scoured  inside  with  good  sharp  sand,  with  the  addition  of 
some  common  salt,  and  then  washed  clean,  care  being  taken  that  all 
of  the  old  tin  is  off  when  burnt  and  that  nothing  greasy  gets  inside. 
Then  while  the  vessel  is  yet  damp  a  coat  of  finely-powdered  sal  am- 
moniac is  sprinkled  over  the  inside  and  a  coat  of  wet  salt  carefully  put 
on  the  outside  to  guard  against  the  effects  of  the  different  gases  from 
the  fire. 

Now  take  a  quantity  of  block  or  ingot  tin  and  slowly  melt  it  in  a 
ladle,  being  careful  not  to  allow  any  part  of  it  to  become  too  hot  or 
get  burnt.  When  the  tin  is  melted  and  ready,  then  warm  and  dry 
the  vessel  to  be  tinned  and  pour  a  sufficient  quantity  of  tin  into  it. 
Next  take  a  sal  ammoniac  wad.  Fig.  14,  and  with  it  rub  and  agitate  the 
liquid  tin  over  the  entire  inside  surface  of  the  vessel  until  every  part 
is  well  covered,  and  then  pour  out  the  bulk  of  the  liquid  tin.  After 
heating  the  vessel  to  a  u  iiform  heat  all  over,  take  a  wisp  of  clean,  soft 
flax-tow,  the  hand  first  being  protected  by  means  of  a  glove  which  has 
had  the  tips  of  the  fingers  cut  off  as  far  as  the  first  joint,  and  whisk  it 
in  a  pan  of  powdered  sal  ammoniac  ;  then  with  a  light  hand  and  a  few 
quick  motions,  first  around  the  left  side  and  then  the  right,  and  then 
across  the  bottom,  wipe  out  the  residue  of  the  tin,  leaving  only  a  clear 
bright  coat  on  the  surface  of  the  vessel.  Only  by  constant  practice 
can  this  operation  be  accomplished  or  excellent  results  secured.  Be- 
ing a  few  months  out  of  practice  will  seriously  affect  a  man's  efficiency 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


21 


in  the  sense  of  touch  and  cause  him  many  unpleasant  and  annoying 
failures.  While  the  tinning  process  is  going  on  the  boy  is  busily  scour- 
ing and  preparing  other  vessels  and  keeping  his  weather-eye  open  to 
what  is  going  on.  The  tinning  process  being  over,  the  next  in  order 
is  to  scour  each  article  with  clean  white  sand  on  the  outside  to  re- 
move the  salt  and  inside  any  sal  ammoniac  that  might  be  left.  This 
scouring  must  be  carefully  done,  and  it  is  best  to  have  a  separate  place 
for  each  operation,  so  that  when  the  outside  is  cleaned  off  the  inside 
can  be  scoured  without  tear  of  contamination  from  the  salt ;  because 
if  the  outside  scouring  wisp  should  by  mistake  get  on  the  inside  the 
work  would  be  spoiled  and  can  scarcely  ever  be  restored  again,  so  it 
is  best  to  keep  the  wisps  far  enough  apart  to  insure  them  from  being 
taken  up  arid  used  by  mistake.  After  the  sal  ammoniac  has  been 
scoured  off  and  the  surface  outside  and  inside  is  clean  and  bright,  the 
articles  are  rinsed  off  in  clear  water  and  dried  in  clean,  fine  sawdust 
kept  in  a  large  box  and  chen  stood  around  a  large  forge-fire  to  be 
dried  more  thoroughly.  Next  brush  off  the  sawdust  and  with  a  clean, 
soft  linen  or  cotton  rag  and  clean  whiting  polish  the  inside  ;  then  with 
another  rag  and  a  little  crocus  polish  the  outside  and  the  job  is  com- 
plete. 

Tinning  has  always  been  paid  for  extra  in  all  country  shops  at  the 
rate  of  a  shilling  a  day  in  excess  of  the  ordinary  pay  on  account  of 
the  disagreeable  nature  of  the  work.  The  manner  of  measuring  and 
paying  for  the  work  is  by  the  inch,  as  shown  in  Fig.  15.  The  rule  is 
laid  obliquely  from  lag  to  brim,  so  that  the  longest  measure  may  be 
obtained,  and  the  price  varies  from  i  to  2  pence  an  inch  according  to 
the  nature  of  the  work. 


22 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


THE   BOY'S   SECOND  YEAR. 

The  first  year  of  drudgery  glides  slowly  away,  and  as  the  end  of 
the  second  year  approaches  the  long,  weary,  damp  and  chilly  nights 
of  October  and  November  come  with  it  ;  the  heating-stoves  of  those 
who  are  compelled  to  use  them  are  called  into  service,  and  with  them 
comes  a  demand  for  stove-pipe,  both  iron  and  copper.  Now,  at  the 
time  of  which  we  are  writing  there  were  no  squaring-shears  with 
which  to  cut  the  sheets  into  suitable  pieces,  so  all  the  work  had  to  be 
cut  out  with  hand-sjiears  or  the  stock-shears.  Then  there  was  no 
folder  with  which  to  fold  the  edges  for  grooving  ;  the  locks  were  all 
folded  over  a  hatchet  stake  and  closed  down  on  a  straight  edge.  The 
men  usually  cut  out  the  pipe,  and  if  it  was  not  too  large  the  boy  was 
put  to  work  folding  edges  and  then  closing  them  down  over  a 
straight-edge  on  a  square  mandrel  laid  across  the  bench  (Fig.  i6). 
If  copper  stove-pipe  is  to  be  made  it  is  usually  browned  and  plan- 
ished. Here,  then,  is  one  of  the  boy's  first  lessons  in  the  manipulation 
of  a  planishing-hammer.  While  he  is  engaged  at  this  many  a  "  half- 
moon  "  intrudes  itself  on  the  surface  of  his  work  to  enlighten  him 
that  he  must  be  careful  and  attend  to  his  task. 

Copper  Stove-Pipe. 

Let  us  now  describe  the  making  of  two  joints  of  copper  stove-pipe. 
We  will  suppose  the  pieces  are  cut  the  proper  width  and  of  sufficient 
taper  that  the  small  end  of  one  joint  will  when  formed  fit  snugly  into 
the  large  end  of  the  other.  The  pieces  are  first  clipped  at  the  end  as 
in  Fig.  17,  about  2  inches  from  the  end  and  as  far  in  on  each  side  as 
the  locks  will  take  up  ;  then,  with  a  tow  wisp,  some  dry  Spanish 
brown  is  rubbed  all  over  one  surface  of  each  piece,  and  the  sheets  are 
fastened  together  with  four  dogs,  as  shown  in  Fig.  t8,  or  secured  m 
whatever  way  seems  best.  The  browned  surfaces  being  outside  the 
sheets  are  then  taken  to  the  large  bottom-stake  (Fig.  19),  and  with  a 
suitable  hammer,  called  a  bottom-hammer,  which  has  one  face  a  little 
fuller  in  the  center  than  the  other,  the  pieces  are  planished — that  is, 
the  grain  of  the  copper  is  closed.  There  is  only  one  way  to  do  this 
part  of  the  work  successfully  and  in  a  perfect  manner,  and  there  is  a 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


25 


ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  20. — Shozving  the  Blows  Arrangea. 


ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


25 


J7ig^  23.  —Pipe  Finished  and  Riveted  at  Ena 


26 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


little  knack  in  it  which  boys  are  a  good  while  learning,  particularly^ 
if  they  are,  unfortunately,  counted  as  unwelcome  intruders  in  the 
shop.  The  secret  of  success  is  to  keep  the  blows  regular.  The  best  re- 
sults are  obtained  by  striking  each  succeeding  blow  m  as  near  a 
direct  line  with  the  previous  one  as  possible,  and  then  filling  in  be- 
tween as  each  line  is  completed,  as  in  Fig.  20.  When  the  surface  has 
been  planished  all  over  the  sheets  are  taken  afart  and  made  to  lay 
level  ;  this  done  they  are  ready  for  folding  and  forming.  They  are 
then  taken  to  the  hatchet  stake  and  folded,  the  edges  being  closed 
down,  as  in  Fig.  21,  and  next  they  are  taken  to  the  bending-bar  (Fig. 
22)  and  bent  round  by  placing  one  edge  between  the  bar  and  the 
bench,  and  bending  a  little  at  a  time  until  the  locks  will  meet  each 
other,  and  after  grooving,  rounded  up  and  smoothed  with  a  mallet,, 
making  finished  pipe  as  in  Fig.  23. 

That  old  bar  (used  in  the  shop  we  are  writing  of),  judging  from 
the  wear  of  the  bench  and  itself,  must  have  served  as  a  former  for 
many  a  boy  before,  and  perhaps  is  used  yet,  for  it  was  still  clinging 
to  its  place  in  1884.  An  improvement  was  introduced  by  my  father  in 
bending-bars  by  making  two  hooks  of  i^-inch  rod  (Fig.  24)  and  plac- 
ing them  in  the  bench,  so  a  mandrel  or  bar  could  lay  in  them  close 
to  the  bench  (Fig.  25)  and  permit  of  one  end  being  raised  so  that  the 
pipe  could  be  slipped  off  readily  (Fig.  26).  One  day  there  was  some 
pipe  of  different  sizes  to  make,  and  after  finishing  the  smallest, 
while  at  work  forming  up  the  larger  sizes  one  of  the  smaller  pipes 
was  placed  on  the  bar  and  the  larger  pipes  formed  over  it.  During 
this  simple  operation  it  was  noticed  that  the  pipe  was  formed  without 
any  ribs  appearing,  as  had  been  the  case  when  the  naked  bar  was  used. 
By  this  method  the  pipe  can  be  made  smooth  and  much  work  saved  in 
rounding  up.  This  method  has  been  used  to  advantage  when  no  roll- 
ers were  at  hand,  and  as  good  work  can  be  turned  out  by  this  means 
as  by  the  use  of  the  rollers,  though  of  course  not  so  rapidly. 

Making  Washing-Coppers. 

The  next  lesson  in  the  use  of  the  hammer  would  be  spotting  " 
coppers,  or,  more  properly,  making  coppers  complete.  In  the  South  of 
England  scarcely  a  house  could  be  found  without  a  washing-copper  m 
or  near  it;  hence  there  was  always  plenty  of  this  kind  of  work  for  a 
boy  in  any  brazier's  shop.  The  capacity  of  these  coppers  runs  from 
8  to  25  gallons  or  more,  according  to  the  size  of  the  house,  and  they^ 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


^7 


are  much  more  economical  as  regards  fuel  and  would  seem  much 
better  adapted  for  washing  purposes  than  a  wash-boiler  on  a  cook 
stove.  Some  of  these  boilers  are  made  to  serve  for  both  washing  and 
brewing.  A  copper  to  be  used  for  brewing  is  made  a  little  different 
from  a  washing-copper,  although  the  greater  part  of  their  construc- 
tion is  the  same.  Let  us  proceed  with  a  washing-copper  to  hold  about 
20  gallons  and  a  brewing-copper  of  a  little  larger  capacity.  Now,  in 
nearly  all  cases  the  sides  are  all  cut  out  and  furnished  ready  to  be  put 
together,  and  the  bottoms  also,  which  are  already  raised  up  at  the 
edge  some  3  or  4  inches,  and  therefore  few  boys  or  men  trouble 
themselves  as  to  the  dimensions  they  ought  to  be,  their  only  care 
being  to  put  them  together  into  shape  as  quickly  as  possible,  which 
they  proceed  to  do  in  the  following  manner  :  The  sides  are  first 
examined  and  made  true,  if  necessary.  As  shown  in  Fig.  27,  one 
piece  is  laid  half-way  on  the  other  and  a  line  drawn  along  the  edge  of 
the  top  piece  ;  it  is  then  turned  over  and  the  end  of  the  same  edge 
placed  at  the  end  of  the  line  drawn  on  the  other  piece.  If  the  edge 
coincide  with  the  line  drawn  and  the  curved  edges  also  coincide,  it 
will  be  considered  true.  If  the  end  edges  do  not  coincide,  divide  the 
difference  at  one  end  and  pare  it  until  the  edge  and  line  coincide  with 
each  other.  Next,  the  holes  are  punched  along  the  side  and  bottom 
edge,  as  shown  in  Fig.  28,  in  such  a  way  that  the  distance  between  the 
center  of  the  holes  will  be  equal  to  the  diameters  of  the  head  and 
shank  of  rivet  added  together.  Thus  if  the  head  be  i  inch  and  the  shank 
%  inch,  then  the  distance  between  the  centers  of  the  holes  will  he  1% 
inches.  The  rivets  in  the  bottom  must  be  at  least  one  size  larger,  some- 
times two  sizes,  according  to  the  strength  of  the  bottom,  which  is 
always  much  stronger  than  the  sides. 

Now  form  the  sides  and  put  three  rivets  in  each  seam,  as  in  Fig. 
29,  and  knock  them  down  half-way  temporially,  and  put  a  small 
tack  in  the  middle  of  the  part  which  will  form  the  brim  at  top  ;  then 
with  a  racer  (Fig.  30)  or  a  pair  ot  compasses  mark  off  the  width  of  the 
brim  as  in  Fig.  29.  Now  take  the  copper  and  put  it  on  a  suitable  head, 
which  is  placed  in  the  square  shank  (Fig.  31)  and  run  a  course  around 
with  a  hammer  on  the  bottom  side  of  the  line  that  marks  the  width 
of  the  brim,  to  harden  the  metal,  after  which  proceed  to  lay  off  the 
brim  with  a  mallet,  being  careful  to  get  it  down  true.  Next  smooth 
it  down  on  an  anvil  with  a  full-faced  hammer,  this  having  to  be  done 
carefully  so  as  to  preserve  the  roundness.    The  sides  are  now  stifi 


Fig.  31. — Riveting  and  Planishing. 


Fig.  34. — Bottom  Ptmched. 


30 


ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


enough  to  handle,  and  we  proceed  to  draw  m  the  bottom  ends  to  fit 
the  bottom,  as  in  Fig.  29,  making  them  small  enough  to  go  into  the 
raise  of  the  bottom,  and  the  bottom  to  lap  up  the  side  about  % 
inch  more  than  the  diameter  of  the  rivet-head.  When  these 
are  fitted,  shape  up  the  sides  true  and  smooth  them  with  a 
mallet  on  the  head  in  the  square  shank  (Fig.  31).  Now  take  a  wispful 
of  Spanish  brown  and  rub  it  all  over  the  outside  surface,  and  with 
another  wisp  rub  a  little  dry  black-lead  over  the  inside.  We  are  now 
ready  to  commence  the  spotting,  which  is  done  as  follows  :  Take  the 
bottom  of  the  slides  in  the  left  hand,  and  with  a  double-faced  planish- 
ing-hammer  (Fig.^32)  begin  by  striking  several  blows  in  succession 
around  each  other  until  the  spot  formed  is  from  ^  to  i  inch  in 
diameter  ;  then  repeat,  making  each  spot  regular  and  in  line  and 
about  %  inch  apart,  or  so  that  the  spots  are  clearly  defined, 
and  cover  the  whole  surface  as  shown  in  Fig.  33.  As  this  pro- 
ceeds and  each  course  comes  to  a  rivet,  scrub  it  enough  to  set  the 
sides  down  to  the  head  to  draw  up  the  head  of  the  rivet,  or  the  whole 
joint  may  be  partly  scrubbed  before  spotting  begins.  When  the 
spotting  is  complete  finish  the  scrubbing  and  draw  up  the  rivets  with 
the  set.  Clean  the  end  of  the  rivet-shank  with  a  file  and  knock  down 
the  rivet,  finishing  it  in  a  pyramid  form,  as  near  octagon  as  possible. 
Now  take  the  bottom  (Fig.  34)  to  the  head  in  an  upright 
shank  as  shown  at  the  right  in  Fig.  31,  and  with  the  bottom 
in  both  hands,  hit  it  on  the  head  enough  to  make  the  outside 
convex  ;  then  smooth  it,  brown  it  and  planish  it  all  over.  This  could 
be  done  on  the  head  (shown  at  the  left  in  Fig.  31)  if  more  convenient, 
and  only  one  is  engaged  on  the  work.  Put  the  sides  into  the  raise 
of  the  bottom  and  mark  four  holes  (being  careful  that  the  sides  set 
true  before  marking  the  holes)  opposite  each  other  and  punch  them 
in  the  bottom  ;  then  place  the  sides  into  the  bottom  again,  and  put  in 
four  rivets  and  knock  them  halt-down  temporarily,  and  punch  the  rest 
of  the  holes  through  the  bottom  from  the  inside.  Next  put  in  all  the 
rivets,  knocking  them  half-down  in  the  same  way,  and  when  they  are 
all  in  take  a  suitable  cross-paned  hammer  (Fig.  35)  and  begin  to  scrub 
up  the  bottom  rivets,  after  which  draw  them  up  with  the  set  and  head 
them  up  eight  square  to  the  form  of  a  pyramid.  If  the  scrubbing  is 
properly  done  there  will  be  no  need  of  any  cement  being  used  to  se- 
cure the  joint  against  leaking  ;  all  that  is  required  is  good  workman- 
sljip.    What  is  called  scrubbing  is  to  hammer  the  part  all  around  the 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


rivet  down  close  to  the  head,  making  the  surface  on  the  inside  per- 
fectly smooth,  the  rivet-head  being,  as  it  were,  in  a  countersink  when 
the  scrubbing  is  completed.  To  do  this  we  first  use  the  pane  of  the 
hammer  between  the  rivets ;  then  on  each  side  ;  then  across  the  four 
corners  made  by  the  previous  blows,  as  shown  in  Fig.  36. 

Making  Brewing-Coppers. 

We  will  now  finish  the  brewing-copper  (Fig.  37),  the  sides  of  which 
have  been  made  the  same  as  those  described  for  a  washing-copper.  We 
next  take  the  bottom  (Fig.  34)  in  both  hands  and  hit  it  on  a  head  in 
an  upright  shank  (Fig.  31)  enough  to  make  it  concave  on  the  outside, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  37.  Then  brown  and  planish  it  from  the  inside, 
making  the  crown  nearly  level  with  the  raise  of  the  bottom.  This  is 
-done  so  that  all  liquor  will  run  out  clean  through  the  pipe.  The  rivets 
are  now  put  in  the  bottom  the  same  way  as  described  for  the  washing- 
copper,  except  that  a  few  holes  are  left  where  the  pipe  is  to  go. 
A  pipe  is  seldom  put  in  a  brewing-copper  by  a  boy  until  he  has  been 
at  the  trade  for  a  considerable  time;  but  we  will  work  it  in,  and  in 
doing  so  let  us  suppose  the  pipe  to  be  3  inches  in  diameter  at  the  large 
end  arid  i}^  inches  at  the  small,  so  as  to  fit  the  socket  of  the  cock. 
The  pattern  for  pipe  (Fig.  38)  should  be  of  extra  heavy  copper,  thick 
enough  to  allow  a  flange  to  be  worked  on  it  2  inches  wide,  which  is  com- 
menced while  it  is  fiat,  using  a  large  cross-paned  hammer,  and  as  the 
flange  is  being  laid  off  the  pipe  or  pattern  is  made  to  curl  with  each 
blow  as  the  work  is  being  done.  Fig  39,  the  bottom  of  the  pipe,  or 
that  part  of  the  flange  which  spreads  over  the  bottom  of  the  copper, 
requires  a  little  more  work  than  that  portion  of  the  flange  intended 
to  go  up  the  side  to  make  it  fit  to  its  place  and  secure  a  good  job. 
When  the  flange  is  laid  off  on  the  pipe  enough,  and  the  joint  is 
soldered  down,  the  hole  is  cut  in  the  side  of  the  copper  where  the 
rivets  have  been  left  out  for  that  purpose  close  to  the  bottom,  and  in 
the  middle  of  one  of  the  sides,  or  sections  of  the  body,  the  hole  being 
made  small  enough,  so  that  about  a  quarter-inch  can  be  turned  back  as 
a  narrow  collar  to  let  the  pipe  and  flange  up  to  its  place  easily  (the 
seam  of  the  pipe  being  on  the  under  side  as  shown  in  Fig.  40 ).  After 
riveting  and  scrubbing  in,  the  collar  is  closed  down  tight  around  the 
pipe,  (Fig.  41  a).  Now  turn  the  copper  up  on  its  side  (Fig  41  b)  and 
with  a  suitable  piece  of  rope,  passed  down  through  the  pipe,  sling  the 
head  A,  and  pass  a  good  strong  wooden  bar  through  the  loop  B,  so 


32 


ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


^ig-  39- — l^he  Way  to  Fit  Pipe,  Cock  and  Boss.  Fig.  ^o.—Fipe  Pattern  Half  Worked. 


Fig.  41. — Shozving  Boss  Ready. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


33 


that  it  will  hang  in  the  right  position,  and  a  boy  can  hold  it  steady  to 
work  in  the  four  rivets  which  hold  the  flange  to  the  bottom.  When 
the  rivets  are  in,  scrub  them  and  the  edge  of  the  flange  close,  until 
both  are  smooth  with  the  surface  of  the  side  and  bottom  (Fig. 
41  a).  The  cock  is  then  made  to  fit  tight  on  the  pipe,  as  in  Fig.  40, 
and  a  case  of  light  copper  (Fig.  41)  made  to  fit  tight  around  the  large 
end  of  the  pipe  and  the  socket  of  the  cock.  When  it  is  fitted  a  hole  is 
cut  in  the  case  and  the  lip  turned  back,  as  in  Fig.  41.  The  case  is 
put  on  the  pipe,  the  end  of  the  pipe  being  driven  tight  into  the 
socket,  and  then  the  pipe  is  rammed  full  of  damp  sand  from  the  inside 
of  the  copper  and  some  clay  rubbed  in  around  the  collar  of  the  case. 
When  all  is  ready  the  case  is  filled  with  old  rough  solder,  burnt  tin, 
or  any  other  suitable  metal  which  cannot  be  used  to  advantage  for 
anything  else.  When  cool  enough  the  lip  is  closed  down  and  a  nail 
driven  in  to  keep  it  close  while  it  is  being  soldered. 


Inside 

Diameter  of 

Depth 
of  sides,  in 
inches. 

Diagonal 

Contents 

in 
gallons. 

Approximate 

diameter  at 

bottom 

length  from 

weighty 

top,  in 
inches. 

at  lag, 
in  inches. 

lag  to  brim, 
in  inches. 

in 

pounds^.. 

Hi 

11 

16 

6 

8 

13i 

12 

191 

8 

lOf 

17 

14i 

13 

21 

10 

13i 

18i 

15| 

IH 

221 

12 

16 

20 

17 

15 

241 

16 

21i 

22 

18i 

16J 

27 

21i 

28i 

231 

20 

28f 

251 

34 

25 

21  i 

m 

m 

31 

41i 

26 

221 

19 

31i 

35 

461- 
55i 

27 

23 

20 

33 

4H 

28 

24 

20i 

34 

44f 

591 

29 

251 

22 

36 

49i 

66 

30i 

27 

22f 

37i 

55| 

74 

31i 

271 

23i 

38i- 

60 

80 

32i 

28i 

23f 

39i 

66 

88 

34 

291 

241 

42 

75 

107 

Ui 

301 

25 

43 

83 

121i 

35 

31 

26 

431 

87 

128 

37 

321 

27 

441- 

93 

137 

38 

331 

28 

46 

106 

159 

TaUe  8hoioi7ig  Dimensions,  Caimcity  and  Weight  of  Coppers. 


34 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


The  above  table  gives  the  dimensions  of  coppers,  with  their  capac- 
ity and  approximate  weight  up  to  loo  gallons.  Small  country  shops 
seldom  make  anything  larger,  not  having  room  or  the  conveniences 
for  building  them.  The  work  was  paid  for  by  the  pound — that  is,  the 
weight  when  finished — at  a  rate  of  from  3  to  5  cents  per  pound. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


35 


MAKING  HAND-BOWLS. 


It  a  boy  has  made  himself  useful  during  his  first  two  years  he  has 
gained  much  valuable  information  for  future  application.  He  has 
been  kept  busy,  and  thus  secured  efficient  training  for  the  eye  and 
hand  by  having  many  little  jobs  given  him  to  try  his  skill  upon,  by 
which  he  has  assisted  his  tutor  and  partly  repaid  him  for  the  care 
and  attention  received  while  watching  over  him  and  directing  his 
initial  work.  If,  on  the  other  hand,  he  has  been  negligent  and  afraid 
he  would  do  too  much,  his  progress  is  likely  to  have  been  a  little  slow, 
for  few  men  care  to  help  a  boy  who  shows  a  desire  to  shirk  his  duty. 
After  the  writer  was  made  to  understand  why  he  had  been  placed  in 
that  old  shop,  he  was  usually  the  first  to  arrive  and  the  last  out,  and 
became  much  attached  to  the  trade;  particularly  after  hav^ing  seen  the 
first  half-dozen  bright  copper  tea-kettles  finished  and  cleaned  ready 
for  the  show-room,  he  looked  forward  to  the  time  when  he  could  imi- 
tate them. 

When  the  tinning  season  is  past  and  no  more  stove-pipe  is  likely 
to  be  wanted,  and  jobbing  work  is  slack,  the  stock  is  reviewed,  and 
usually  about  the  first  things  that  are  wanted  are  hand-bowls,  which 
supply  the  work  for  advancing  the  boy  a  step  further.  Copper  hand- 
bowls  furnish  an  excellent  initial  lesson,  because  while  the  work  to 
be  executed  in  making  them  may  not  necessarily  call  for  the  finest 
finish,  yet  a  boy  who  is  interested  in  his  work  may  display  his  best  skill 
here  and  make  preparation  for  the  better  work  which  is  to  follow. 
Then  again,  if  the  bowls  are  to  be  tinned  inside  an  opportunity  is 
offered  to  try  his  hand  at  the  tinning  process,  seeing  that  this  also 
does  not  have  to  be  done  as  carefully  as  in  the  case  of  cooking  utensils. 
Copper  hand-bowls  were  made  in  three  sizes,  and  called  small,  middle 
and  large.  The  small  size  when  finished  was  8  inches  in  diameter, 
the  middle  size  S%  inches  and  the  large  9  inches.  The  bodies  were 
cut  the  following  dimensions  : 


Small . . 
Middle 
Large 


Length. 
24 
26 
28 


Width. 


Diameter  of  bottom. 


6 


36 


ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  48. — Sides  Wrinkled  for  First  Course. 


Fig.  49. — Razing  Hatnnier. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


37 


The  strength  of  the  material  may  be  governed  by  the  price  at 
v/hich  it  is  desired  to  sell  the  finished  articles,  but  the  usual  weight 
was  8,  9  and  lo  pound  plate  for  the  sides  of  each  size  respectively 
and  lo,  II  and  12  pound  for  the  bottoms.  This  difference  would  seem 
due  to  a  desire  to  make  the  bottom  stronger,  but  is  really  on  account 
of  the  thickness  of  the  body,  which  is  increased  m  the  thickness 
while  razing  it  in  to  suit  the  size  of  bottom. 

We  will  now  proceed  with  the  work  and  finish  up  a  9-inch  bowl. 
The  side  is  cut,  according  to  the  above  table,  28  inches  long  and  4 
inches  wide.  Smooth  the  burrs  oif  with  a  file  and  then  thin  the  end 
edges  with  a  hammer  (Fig.  44)  on  a  side-stake  (Fig  45)  in  the  floor- 
block.  After  thinning  clean  the  edges  if  necessary  with  sand-paper  ; 
now  cramp  it  with  the  snips  at  one  end  as  far  as  the  scarf  made  with 
the  hammer,  which  should  be  about  3-16  inch  (Fig.  46).  Form  it  round 
as  in  Fig.  47,  then  close  the  cramps  down  and  jar  a  little  borax  and 
water  through  the  joint  and  charge  it  with  fine  spelter,  following  the 
zigzag  line  of  the  cramps.  (It  is  well  to  wash  and  mix  the  solder 
with  borax  and  water  a  few  days  before.)  Next  dry  it  slowly  over 
the  fire,  after  which,  holding  it  with  a  suitable  pair  or  tongs,  make  it 
hot  enough  at  the  back  to  annul  any  spring  and  to  assist  to  heat  the 
copper  ;  then  turn  the  seam  to  the  fire,  and  with  a  brisk  blast  from 
the  bellows  run  the  solder  down  the  joint.  When  cool,  see  that  the 
seam  is  full  and  perfect.  Now  file  up  and  trim  the  joint  on  the  out- 
side and  inside,  taking  off  any  sharp  corners  or  knobs  of  spelter. 
When  smooth  take  it  to  a  side-stake  (Fig.  45)  and  knock  down  the 
seam,  making  it  the  same  thickness  as  the  other  part  of  the  sheet, 
and  then  anneal.  Now  take  a  racer  and  mark  around  the  middle  of 
the  body,  and  wrinkle  it  at  one  end  as  far  as  the  middle  (Fig.  48). 
Then  take  it  to  the  block,  and  on  a  long  head  in  a  tea-kettle  shank  or 
on  the  point  of  the  side-stake  raze  in  a  course  with  a  mallet  or  light 
razing  hammer  (Fig.  49)  until  the  diameter  of  the  body  at  the  end  is 
reduced  to  within  about  five-eighths  of  the  size  of  the  bottom.  Next 
''stag"  it  in,  as  shown  in  Fig.  50,  a  shade  smaller  than  the  bottom. 
Thin  the  edge  of  the  part  turned  on  a  suitable  bullet-stake  (Fig.  51), 
also  the  edge  of  the  bottom  and  cramp  it,  as  in  Fig.  50,  then  lift  each 
alternate  cramp  and  put  the  bottom  in  from  the  inside.  Close  down 
the  cramps  on  a  bottom-stake  with  a  hammer,  and  popple  the  bottom 
(which  is  done  by  a  few  blows  of  a  hammer  on  a  bottom-stake  in  the 
center  to  draw  it  a  little),  and  then  spring  the  bottom  in  and  out  to 


38 


ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  $1.— Bullet  Stake. 


Fig.  52. — Bowl  Ready  for  Wiring. 


Fig.  53. — Pattern  for  Handle. 

^^i-  54* —  Way  to  Put  the  Flaps  On. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


39 


Fig.  57. —  Tongs  Holding  Socket. 


Pig^  Boivl  Finished  Complete. 


'40 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


loosen  the  -joint  enough  to  receive  the  spelter  freely  into  the  seam 
when  being  run  at  the  fire.  Jar  some  borax  and  water  through  the 
joint  and  charge  it  with  spelter,  following  the  cramps  in  their  zigzag 
path  around  the  bottom,  then  take  it  to  the  fire  and  dry  slowly.  Heat 
the  sides  until  the  borax  is  all  down,  run  the  joint  around,  and  when 
cool  clean  off  the  joint  outside  and  knock  it  down  on  a  bullet-stake 
and  anneal.  Next  take  it  to  a  small  bottom-stake  and  flatten  the 
bottom  with  a  mallet,  and  with  a  pair  of  compasses  mark  the  size  the 
bottom  is  to  be  when  the  bowl  is  in  its  finished  shape,  which  will  be 
51^  inches.  Break  the  bottom  up  the  side  from  the  outside  of  the 
circle  made  by  the  compasses,  which  will  increase  the  depth  a  good 
inch.  After  the  bowl  is  shaped,  turn  the  edge  on  the  back  of  the 
side  stake  for  a  No.  8  wire,  as  shown  in  Fig.  52.  If  the  inside  is  to  be 
tinned  it  is  now  ready,  and  the  work  may  be  done  in  the  manner 
already  described. 

We  will  now  make  the  handle,  which  is  a  socket-handle,  about 
inches  inside  at  the  wire  and  i  inch  in  diameter  at  the  flap  and  5;^ 
inches  long.  The  pattern  of  the  socket  would  be  4^  inches  at  one 
end  and  3^  inches  at  the  other.  When  cutting  the  pattern  leave  a 
little  V-piece  in  the  middle  of  the  flap-end  and  a  point  at  the  seam,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  53,  to  hold  the  flap  on  while  it  is  being  brazed.  The 
pattern  being  cut,  thin  the  edges  and  turn  it,  then  change  it  and  braze 
it  down,  clean  off  the  joint  and  knock  it  down  on  a  beak-iron.  Next 
cut  out  the  flap  (Fig.  54,  A  B)  and  make  the  hole  for  the  socket  small 
enough  so  that  a  collar  may  be  worked  out  as  shown  in  Fig.  55,  to  go 
.a  little  way  up  the  socket.  When  the  collar  is  fitted,  put  the  socket 
through  the  hole  and  turn  back  the  V-piece  and  also  the  little  points 
left  on  at  the  seam,  which  should  hold  the  flap  firmly  in  place.  Charge 
it  with  spelter  and  dry,  and  holding  it  with  a  pair  of  duck-bill  tongs 
(Fig.  56),  warm  first  gently  and  then  heat  it  until  the  borax  is  down, 
or  run,  then  turn  the  flap  down  to  the  fire  as  in  Fig.  57  and  run  the 
solder  around  the  edge  of  the  socket  and  flap,  and  when  the  joint 
is  cleaned  off  wire  the  end  of  socket. 

If  the  bowl  (Fig.  58)  has  been  tinned  and  scoured  clean,  it  may 
now  be  planished  so  that  it  is  bright  or  brown.  To  planish  articles 
of  this  kind  with  ease  and  comfort  it  is  necessary  to  sit  at  the  toot- 
block,  and  in  such  a  position  that  the  operator's  thigh  may  lie  in  a 
horizontal  line  with  the  knee,  and  the  shank  and  head  at  such  a  hight 
that  the  fore-arm  and  hand  may  lie,  when  at  rest,  level  with  the  ham- 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


41 


mer-handle  when  the  face  of  the  hammer  is  at  rest  on  the  face  of  the 
head,  or  as  near  to  this  as  it  is  practicable  to  get,  the  knee  acting  as 
a  gauge,  rest  and  guide  during  the  operation.  We  may  now  proceed 
v/ith  the  planishing.  If  the  article  is  to  be  brown  it  is  rubbed  on  the 
outside  with  some  Spanish  brown,  care  being  taken  that  none  gets  on 
the  inside.  Wipe  the  inside  with  a  clean  rag;  next  flatten  the  bottom, 
smoothing  it  first  with  a  mallet,  and  make  a  faint  mark  with  the  com- 
pass showing  the  size  of  bottom.  On  a  clean,  bright  bottom-stake 
planish  the  bottom  with  a  small  bottom-hammer,  after  which,  on  a 
clean,  bright  head,  commence  at  the  bottom  and  take  each  course 
around  the  body  until  the  wiring  edge  is  reached,  then  with  a  con- 
cave smoothing-hammer  smooth  as  much  as  is  needed.  Now  put  in 
the  wire,  and  after  planishing  the  flap  of  the  handle  and  chamfering 
the  edge  of  it  with  a  hammer,  rivet  on  the  handle  and  finish  the  article 
by  cleaning. 


42 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


FRYING-PANS. 

Frying-pans,  closet-pans  and  water-balls  afford  means  for  the  next 
step  and  initiate  the  boy  into  the  art  of  raising.  It  may  be  necessary 
to  explain  here  for  the  benefit  of  the  beginner  the  difference  between 
the  terms  raising,  hollowing  and  razing,  which  are  often  con- 
founded one  with  another.  Thus  we  say  a  closet-pan  is  raised  up. 
When  we  made  the  body  of  the  hand-bowl  smaller  we  razed  the  body 
in  or  down  to  the  required  size.  Hollowing  is  performed  with  a  ham- 
mer (Fig.  59)  similar  to  a  bullet-hammer,  the  difference  being  that  the 
hollowing-hammer  face  is  half  an  oblate  spheroid,  while  the  face  of  a 
bullet-hammer  is  half  a  sphere.  A  hammer  used  for  raising  up  or 
razing  down  has  a  rectangular  face  and  is  nearly  flat,  as  already  illus- 
trated in  Fig.  49.  Hollowing  is  done  by  sinking  the  pattern  into  a 
hollow  in  a  hollowing-block,  and  the  work  that  can  be  done  in  this 
way  is  quite  limited,  while  with  a  raising-hammer  any  desired  hight 
or  depth  may  be  obtained. 

Frying-pans  have  their  sides  raised  up  from  a  flat  disk  and  are 
usually  made  from  9  to  15  inches  in  diameter  at  the  rim  and  from  2 
to  3  inches  deep  when  finished.  They  are  sometimes  made  larger,  but 
not  often.  We  will  now  describe  the  making  of  a  pan  12  inches  in 
diameter  at  the  brim  and  to  receive  a  y^-inch  wire.  Frying-pans 
are  made  flaring  in  the  ratio  of  about  2  to  i — that  is,  if  the  side 
be  2  inches  deep,  then  the  flare  on  the  side  will  be  i  inch, 
or  in  other  words,  if  such  a  pan  be  12  inches  at  the 
top  the  bottom  will  be  10  inches.  Let  our  example  be  12 
inches  at  top  an  i  10  at  bottom,  the  slant  hight  2  inches  and  the  wire 
Now,  to  make  this  we  require  a  disk  of  metal  equal  to  the  surface  of  the 
pan,  the  strength  of  which  may  range  from  14  to  18  pound  plate.  The 
disk  then  would  be  equal  to  the  bottom  -f-  sides  +  half  the  covering  of 
wire,  which,  allowing  i  inch  for  the  circumference  of  the  wire,  would 
make  the  sides  before  turning  the  edge  for  wire  2^  inches  deep,  and 
the  top  diameter  12^  inches.  Then 

,|/  103  +  X  3.1416  X  2.5 .7854)  =  |/lOO  +  112.5  =  14.57 

equals    diameter    of    disk ;    adding  the   thickness   of    the  metal 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  62. — Razing  Pattern  on  Tea-Kettle  Shank. 


ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fis^,  ^c^.— Ancient  Frying- Pan. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


45 


to  this  we  have  about  14.6  the  size  of  the  disk  required 
for  our  pan.  Now  describe  with  the  compasses  the  size  of 
the  bottom  on  the  pattern  (Fig.  60),  and  wrinkle  the  edge  regularly 
all  around  as  shown  in  Fig.  61  ;  then  take  it  to  the  floor-block  and  on 
a  long  head  in  a  tea-kettle  shank  (Fig.  62),  or  on  the  point  ot  a  side- 
stake  (previously  shown  in  Fig.  45),  commence  to  raze  down  the 
wrinkles,  bringing  the  razing-hammer  down  first  in  front,  then  on 
each  side  of  every  wrinkle  in  succession,  as  in  Fig.  63,  beating  down 
at  each  blow  from  }iio  %  inch.  Follow  up  each  course  until  the 
brim  is  reached  ;  then  anneal  by  making  it  a  bright  cherry-red  in  the 
shade.  Now  wrinkle  again  as  before,  only  with  this  difference,  that  the 
wrinkle  which  was  exposed  to  the  hammer  before  shall  be  in  the  hollow 
in  the  next  course,  thus  making  all  of  the  sides  to  feel  the  hammer 
equally.  The  third  course  should  bring  the  sides  up  sufficiently,  and 
maybe  done  with  a  mallet.  The  last  course  should  bring  the  sides  up 
enough  so  that  when  the  pan  is  being  planished  the  expansion  caused 
by  hammering  will  just  bring  it  to  its  proper  size.  Finally,  smooth 
out  the  marks  made  by  the  razing-hammer  with  any  smooth-faced 
hammer  up  to  where  the  wiring  edge  is  to  be  turned,  and  partially  turn 
the  edge  over.  It  is  now  ready  for  tinning,  after  which  it  is  scoured 
clean  and  planished — first  the  bottom  on  a  bottom-stake  (Fig.  62),  and 
then  the  side  on  a  bright  head  ;  when  this  is  done  it  is  wired.  The 
handle,  which  is  a  socket-handle  made  of  iron,  as  shown  in  Fig.  64,  is 
now  riveted  on  and  the  whole  cleaned  ready  for  the  store-room. 

It  was  stated  that  frying-pans  were  sometimes  made  larger  than 
15  inches.  It  may  interest  the  reader  to  learn  that  in  the  old  farm- 
houses of  England,  where  the  fire  is  made  on  dog-irons  on  the  hearth 
under  an  open  chimney,  the  frying  pans  used  (Fig.  65)  were  seldom 
less  than  18  inches  in  diameter,  with  a  wire  ^  inch  thick  and  a 
handle  from  5  to  6  feet  long,  so  that  the  cook  should  stand  a  good  dis- 
tance from  the  fire  without  scorching.  It  would  seem  they  were  very 
unpleasant  utensils  to  use,  for  this  long  handle  was  merely  a  piece  of 
bar-iron,  with  sharp  corners  about  t\  inch  thick,  tapering  from 
inches  at  the  flap  to  i  inch  at  the  ring  by  which  it  was  hung  in  the 
chimney  corner  when  not  in  use. 


46 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  67. — Blanks  Fastened  Together  for 
Raising. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


47 


CLOSET-PANS. 

Copper  pans  for  water-closets  are  made  in  a  similar  way  to  frying- 
pans,  but  are  of  lighter  material,  scarcely  ever  stronger  than  lo-pound 
plates,  usually  of  8,  and  are  raised  from  flat  disks  three  at  a  time. 
Their  dimensions  are  about  4  inches  at  the  bottom,  9  at  top  and  4 
deep  and  wired  with  a  No.  9  wire.  Let  us  make  three  pans  similar  to 
the  one  shown  in  Fig.  66  and  let  their  dimensions  be  4  inches  at  the 
bottom,  9  at  top  and  the  sides  4  inches  high.  Then  proceeding  by  the 
rule  already  given  to  find  the  size  of  a  disk  equal  in  surface  to  a  given 
pan  and  one-half  of  the  circumference  of  the  wire  we  have: 

\/ 4'  +  (^-^^2^  X  3  1416  X  4.25  H-  .7854  =       16  +  113.05  =  11.364, 

the  diameter  of  a  disk  required  to  make  the  pan.  Now  cut  two  disks 
11.364  inches  in  diameter  and  one  ^  inch  larger,  upon  which  turn  up 
an  edge  X  inch  deep  (Fig.  67)  and  lay  the  other  two  in  it  and  close 
the  edge  down  on  them;  they  may  now  be  worked  up  as  one  pan. 
Wrinkle  the  side  regularly  with  the  edge  that  holds  them  together  on 
the  inside  and  proceed  to  work  on  the  point  of  a  side- stake  in  the 
block  with  a  raising-hammer.  At  the  completion  of  each  course  an- 
neal and  wrinkle  again,  making  the  outside  wrinkle  the  inside  one 
m  the  next  course.  When  the  pan  is  up  enough  smooth  down  the 
hammer  marks  with  a  smoothing-hammer  and  separate  the  blanks. 
After  turning  the  edges  for  the  wire  they  are  ready  for  tinning. 
After  tinning  and  scouring  thc}^  are  planished  in  the  grain,  made 
bright  on  the  inside  and  brown  outside;  when  planished  wire  and 
clean. 

WATER-BALLS. 

Water-balls  are  a  kind  of  float  used  for  the  purpose  of  regulating 
the  water-supply  m  tanks  and  reservoirs,  so  that  they  may  always  be 
kept  full.  These  spherical  floats  have  a  long  strig  or  lever  made  of 
copper  soldered  to  them,  having  a  square  hole  in  it  to  fit  on  the  square 
of  the  plug  of  a  cock,  as  shown  in  Fig.  68,  so  that  as  the  cistern  or 
reservoir  is  emptied  the  float  falling  with  the  water  opens  the  cock, 


48 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


and  as  it  gradually  fills  again  the  float  rises  and  shuts  off  the  supply. 
These  balls  are  made  in  various  sizes  from  4  to  12  inches  in  diameter. 
They  are  made  of  light  material,  from  6  to  8  pound  plate,  according 
to  size,  and,  like  closet-pans,  are  raised  up  three  at  a  time.  Let  us 
raise  up  three  pair  of  halves  for  three  8-inch  balls.  As  :he  convex 
surface  of  a  sphere  is  equal  to  the  curved  surface  of  its  circumscribed 

cylinder,  we  have  100.5312,  the    convex   surface  of 

2 

^ne-half  a  sphere  8  inches  in  diameter.    Converting  this  into  a  disk 


we  get  |/ 1^5312  ^  11.313^  the  diameter  of  a  disk  equal  to  the  con- 


vex  surface  of  one-half  of  an  8-inch  ball.  But  we  must  have  a  %-mch 
lap  on  one-half  for  the  joint  ;  therefore  the  convex  surface  of  this 
larger  half  will  be 


the  diameter  ot  a  disk  equal  to  the  larger  half.  Having  the  size  of 
each  half,  two  are  to  be  cut  the  size  of  each  and  one  each  enough 
larger  to  allow  turning  an  edge  over  to  hold  the  other  two,  as  pre- 
viously described  and  shown  in  Fig.  67.  To  find  the  exact  size  of  the 
inner  circle  to  wrinkle  from  draw  the  semicircle  ABC  (Fig.  69). 
Space  it  with  the  radius,  dividing  the  semicircle  into  three  equal 
parts  and  join  C  H,  H  I  and  1  A.  Divide  the  versed-sine  B  E  into 
two  equal  parts  and  draw  the  lines  M  F,  F  G  and  G  R  parallel  to 
C  H,  H  I  and  I  A,  then  taking  G  F  as  the  diameter  from  which  to  start 
mark  the  circle  on  the  disk  (Fig.  70).  After  having  wrinkled  the  disk 
the  same  as  in  Fig.  61,  start  to  raze  down  by  striking  with  the  hammer 
first  in  front  and  then  on  each  side  of  the  wrinkles,  as  shown  in  Fig. 
63,  until  all  are  razed  down  to  the  brim.  Next  anneal  and  wrinkle 
again,  razing  down  the  wrinkles  until  the  proper  size  is  obtained  ; 
then  take  it  to  a  bullet-head  in  the  straight  end  of  a  tea-kettle  shank 
and  break  the  lag  down  by  holding  it  in  both  hands  and  hitting  the 
bottom  on  the  head  in  the  center  to  swell  it  out,  and  then  with  a  mallet 
work  down  tho  lag,  beginning  in  the  middle  of  the  side.  When  the  lag 
is  down,  round  up  and  smooth  with  a  hammer,  after  which  they  may  be 
taken  apart,  browned  and  planished.  The  large  half  is  to  be  beaded 
with  the  hand-swage,  as  shown  in  Fig.  71.  Tin  the  edge  as  far  as  the 
bead  ;  then  put  the  halves  together  and  solder  the  seam.  The  strig 
or  lever  is  finally  soldered  on  and  the  article  cleaned  ready  for  the 
store-room. 


.7854 


8  X  3.1416  X  4.25  =  106.8144  and 


ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


49 


Fig.  10— Pattern  for  Half  0/  Water-Ball. 


Fig.  -jx.—Hatid-Stvage 


50 


AR'I"  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


MOUNTINGS  FOR  COPPER  GOODS 

The  preparation  of  mountings  ;  that  is,  spouts  and  handles  for  tea 
kettles,  handles  for  sauce  pans,  stew  pans  and  all  the  many  kinds  of 
utensils  used  in  a  kitchen  is  the  next  in  order.  In  London,  there  are 
men  who  rarely  do  anything  else,  but  prepare  mountings  for  all  kinds 
of  brazier's  work,  but  in  the  country  shops  braziers  prepare  the 
greater  part  of  their  own  mountings,  which  affords  an  opportunity 
for  a  boy  to  learn  how  to  make  them  that  is  very  seldom  open  to  him 
jn  a  large  city.  Let  us  consider  a  few  of  the  pieces  among  the  many 
sets  of  mountings  upon  which  a  boy  may  display  his  best  skill  and 
learn  how  to  manipulate  a  file  and  burnisher,  so  that  when  the  mount- 
ing is  attached  to  the  article  it  is  intended  for  it  will  be  an  ornament 
and  add  beauty  to  the  whole  fabric.  Many  an  otherwise  good  piece 
of  work  has  been  spoiled  for  the  want  of  proper  symmetry  in  the 
mountings  or  carelessness  in  their  finish.  To  file  and  finish  mount- 
ings is  tedious  work.  Side  handles  for  stock  pots,  fish  kettles,  and 
the  like  ;  ears  for  the  cross  handles  or  bails  for  coal  scoops  ;  sockets 
for  sauce  pans,  coffee  pots  and  scooplets  ;  bails,  ears  and  barrel 
handles  for  tea  kettles,  with  the  spouts  for  them  and  coffee  pots  all 
this  work,  though  tedious  and  requiring  much  care  to  execute  it  well, 
is  good  to  school  a  boy  to  patient  labor.  Common  coal  scoop  bails  ; 
that  is,  those  made  for  plain  bright  coal  scoops,  A*  Fig.  72,  were 
usually  made  of  ^-inch  pipe  nicely  rounded  up  ;  filled  with  rosin  and 
bent,  then  filed  and  burnished.  In  the  illustration  B  shows  an  orna- 
mental form  of  ear.  The  handles  of  such  vessels  as  stock  pots,  tur- 
bot  kettles  and  preserving  pans  were  of  cast  copper.  Fig.  73.  Tea 
kettle  handles  were  made  in  a  variety  of  fashions  as  shown  in 
Figs.  76,  77,  78  and  79.  The  handle  illustrated  in  Fig.  76  was  made  of 
three  pieces,  a  tube,  see  Fig.  74,  and  two  rods  made  as  in  Fig.  75. 
Sauce  pan  handles.  Fig.  80,  illustrates  a  coffee  pot  handle.  Fig.  81  were 
of  two  kinds  principally  :  one  B  made  of  wood  and  inserted  into  a 
copper  socket,  the  other  A,  a  complete  iron  handle.  These  handles 
were  japanned  when  the  goods  were  made  brown  ;  if  they  were  made 
bright,  the  wooden  handles  were  oiled,  while  the  iron  ones  were 


Fig.  76. — Completed  Tea-Kettle  Handle. 


^ig-  11'— Design  for  Tea-Kettle  Handle. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


53 


54 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  89  —Spont  Tool 


Fig.  ^.—Spoilt  Filled  zvitk  Lead. 


I'ig.  96. — Spout  Stake  for  Pitching  Collars. 


Fig.  97. — Collar  Pitched  on  Spout. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


57 


either  tinned,  or  filed  and  burnished.  This  work  always  helped  to 
keep  the  boy  busy. 

Let  us  make  and  finish  for  one  gallon  tea  kettles,  a  spout  and  the 
several  kinds  of  handles.  The  mouth  of  the  spout  on  Fig.  82  should 
be  1%  inch,  at  the  breast,  C,  inch,  and  at  the  end,  about  ^ 
inch.  The  pattern  for  spout,  Fig.  83,  will  be  2  inches  wide  at  E,  and 
2^  inch  at  C,  and  3  inches  from  F  toG.  Cut  it  off  and  smooth  off  the 
burrs,  and  on  the  back  of  a  side  stake,  or  some  other  suitable  stake, 
Fig.  84,  draw  over  each  side  j4  inch  and  then  thin  the  edge  ; 
then  on  the-candle  mold  stake,  Fig.  85,  turn  the  stem  of  the  spout  and 
bring  the  two  flaps  together  as  in  Fig.  86,  and  lap  the  seam  together 
about  }i  inch.  It  is  then  ready  for  the  fire.  Charge  the  joint  with 
spelter  and  gently  dry  at  the  fire,  holding  the  spout  with  the  tongs. 
Fig.  87  ;  when  the  borax  is  down  and  the  back  is  blood  red,  turn  the 
spelter  to  the  fire  and  run  it  down  the  joint;  when  cool,  round  up  the 
stem  and  file  the  joint  smooth.  Next  turn  the  flaps  and  form  the 
mouth  as  in  Fig.  88,  and  charge  the  joint  inside  and  braze  it  down, 
leaving  the  hole  at  the  breast  open.  Now  put  the  spout  tool.  Fig. 
89,  in  a  vise  and  round  up  the  breast,  C,  Fig.  82,  at  the  same  time 
drawing  in  closing  up  the  hole  left;  when  closed  it  is  to  be  brazed; 
it  is  now  ready  for  filling  with  lead.  To  do  this  wrap  a  piece  of 
thick  paper  around  the  end  and  lay  it  in  a  box  of  damp  sand,  cov- 
ering it  to  within  K  inch  of  the  mouth  ;  then  put  in  a  piece  of  iron 
rod  5  or  6  inches  long,  Fig.  90,  which  forms  a  sort  of  handle  for  hold- 
ing the  spout  when  at  the  vise,  and  fill  the  spout  with  nice  clean  soft 
lead.  When  cool,  bend  the  stem  as  shown  in  Fig.  91.  This  used  to  be 
done  with  a  mallet  over  a  lead  piece.  Fig.  92.  An  improved  way  is 
shown  in  Fig.  93,  the  bending  being  done  by  placing  the  spout 
through  a  hole  in  the  lead  pieces,  and  by  means  of  a  rope  block  and 
lever  the  spout  is  bent  by  pressing  down  on  the  lever.  After  bend- 
ing is  done  we  then  true  the  whole  up,  making  the  distance  through 
the  breast  at  C,  Fig.  82,  a  little  smaller  than  the  end,  so  it 
will  go  with  ease  into  its  place  in  the  kettle.  It  is  then 
filled,  the  joint  being  cleaned  up  with  a  half-round  file, 
then  roughened  all  over.  Smooth  again  with  a  fine  file,  and  fol- 
low with  emery  cloth  wrapped  around  a  stick,  and  finally  smooth 
with  a  piece  of  soft  hemp-rope  and  fine  emery,  taking  one  hitch  with 
the  rope  around  it.  Fig.  94,  and  pulling  it  back  and  forth  until  fit  for 
the  burnisher.    Now  wipe  it  clean,  and  when  free  from  all  grit  rub  a 


58 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


little  sweet  oil  over  it,  and  with  a  clean  bright  burnisher,  Fig.  95,  take 
a  course  all  over  it.  Now  wipe  it  off  and  examine  it,  and  touch  up  all 
parts  which  may  have  escaped  the  burnisher,  then  cover  all  over  with 
wet  whiting,  and  at  the  fire  gently  run  the  lead  out,  being  careful  that 
it  does  not  get  too  hot.  Next  fit  the  mouth  of  the  spout  to  the  side  of 
the  kettle  and  on  a  spout  stake,  Fig.  96,  pitch  the  spout,  leaving  a 
collar,  as  shown  in  Fig.  97,  %  inch  wide  ;  after  which  file  the  jaws  in 
the  small  end  of  the  spout  and  tin  it  on  the  inside  ;  it  is  then  ready 
for  the  kettle. 

The  handles  or  bails  have  been  shown,  Figs.  76  to  79,  the  barrel, 
Fig.  77,  is  53^  inches  long  and  i  inch  in  diameter;  the  straps  are  i 
inch  wide,  6  inches  long  and  about  inch  thick.  In  order  to  braze 
these  straps  on  the  barrels  we  had  two  frames,  made  of  inch-hoop 
as  shown  in  Fig.  98.  The  frames  were  made  so  that  when  the  straps 
were  wired  on,  the  barrel  would  slide  in  tight ;  they  are  then  charged 
with  spelter  and  the  straps  brazed  to  the  barrel.  While  one  is  cooling 
the  other  can  be  prepared.  When  cool,  clean  and  trim  off  the  corners 
around  the  barrel  and  round  up  the  edges  of  the  straps  with  a  file 
and  then  burnish  them  ;  finally  planish  the  face  and  bend  as  shown. 
(This  kind  of  bail  is  probably  the  oldest  in  use,  for  the  writer  sav/ 
when  a  boy,  tea  kettles  having  the  same  kind  of  handle,  which  could 
easily  be  traced  back  trom  son  to  father  for  100  years  or  more.)  An- 
other kind  of  handle.  Figs.  78  and  79,  were  cast  straight,  of  a  flat,  oval 
shape,  they  also  were  filed  and  burnished  before  bending.  In  the  bar- 
rel handle,  Fig.  76,  the  straps  were  brazed  to  the  barrel  and  then  filed 
up  and  finished  and  bent  on  a  suitable  bright  tool.  The  sockets  for 
coffee-pot  and  sauce-pan  handles,  Figs.  80  and  81,  were  made  of  strong 
copper  and  finished  with  file  and  burnisher.  The  burnisher,  Fig.  95, 
was  made  from  an  ordinary  12-inch  safe  edge  file,  with  the  teeth  ground 
out  and  ground  to  the  desired  shape.  It  would  appear  that  this 
trouble  was  taken  in  order  to  retain  the  original  temper  given  the  file, 
it  being  the  best  for  this  kind  of  tool.  Handles  for  preserving  pans 
and  turbot  kettles,  Fig.  73,  were  filed  and  finished  bright  in  the  same 
way  as  spouts,  the  soft  rope,  Fig.  94,  being  used  to  assist  m  the  opera- 
tion. 

Tea-kettle  rings,  on  or  in  which  the  cover  sets,  were  made  in  two 
ways  :  one  was  to  wire  a  narrow  strip,  Figs.  99  and  100,  and  after 
putting  it  through  the  hole  up  close  to  the  wire,  turn  the  edge  back  on 
the  inside.    The  other  way  was  to  cut  a  strip  of  copper,  Fig.   A  ,  and 


6o 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


hammer  it  while  hot  in  a  die,  Fig.  B ,  then  form  it  round  and 
solder  it  together.  Next  braze  a  narrow  strip  of  copper  around  the 
middle  of  the  ring  on  the  under  side,  see  Fig.  C ,  so  as  to  go  through 
the  hole  in  the  kettle  and  turn  over  to  hold  the  ring  in.  This  makes 
a  nice  looking  job.  The  wire  ring  was  used  for  common  brown  kettles 
and  glue-pots. 


Fig.  C. — Ring  for  Cover  Support. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING.  6^ 


GLUE  POTS  AND  TEA-KETTLES. 

Glue  pots  may  be  considered  as  the  stepping-stones  to  tea  kettle 
making,  as  the  bodies  are  made  the  same  size  and  way,  and  if  a  boy 
(or  man  either  for  that  matter,)  will  take  the  necessary  care  and  in- 
terest while  being  instructed  in  the  work  of  making  glue  pots,  he  may 
attain  the  proficiency  necessary  to  execute  the  best  work,  such  as  is 
demanded  for  bright  goods.  Let  us  begin  to  make  two  round  bodies, 
the  same  as  for  i -gallon  glue  pots,  and  at  the  proper  place  we  will 
branch  off,  finishing  one  a  brown  glue  pot,  and  the  other  a  bright  tea 
kettle,  following  throughout  the  methods  in  vogue  when  the  copper- 
smith made  his  own  mountings.  The  body  for  a  gallon  glue  pot  or 
tea  kettle  is  cut  24  inches  long  and  6  inches  wide,  and  from  an  8  to 
12-pound  sheet.  Having  cut  the  body  from  a  lo-pound  sheet  smooth, 
cramp  and  put  the  edges  together.  Fig.  loi,  and  braze  the  joints. 
After  careful  examination  trim  the  corners  and  then  knock  down  the 
joint  on  a  side  stake  to  make  it  the  same  thickness  as  the  sheet. 
When  annealed,  divide  the  depth  into  three  equal  parts  as  shown  in 
Fig.  loi  and  with  a  racer,  mark  distinctly,  so  the  divisions  may  serve 
as  a  guide  for  the  work  about  to  be  begun.  Take  the  two  bodies  to 
the  block,  and  on  a  head  m  the  straight  end  of  a  tea  kettle  shank.  Fig. 
102,  draw  in  a  light  course  at  each  end  of  both  with  a  mallet,  keeping 
the  wrinkles  that  form,  in  regular  order  as  they  appear,  and  until  the 
course  is  completed  ;  then  anneal.  This  should  bring  in  the  bottom 
end  enough  ;  the  other  end,  or  that  which  is  for  the  top,  may  now  be 
razed  down  another  course  with  a  hammer  ;  when  this  is  completed, 
anneal  and  knock  the  side  out  even  with  the  bulge  caused  by  razing 
down  the  top.  Take  it  to  a  bullet  stake,  Fig.  103,  and  finish  razing 
down  the  top  until  the  hole  for  the  cover  is  4  inches  in  diameter. 
Stag  in  the  bottom,  partly  on  the  long-head,  and  finish  it  on  the  tea 
kettle  bottom  stake,  Fig.  104  ;  thin  the  edge  and  anneal,  and  it  will  be 
ready  for  the  bottom.  The  bottom  should  be  about  6  inches  in  di- 
ameter, and  of  about  13  or  14-pound  plate  ;  the  hole  to  receive  the 
bottom  should  be  slightly  smaller  than  the  bottom  before  thinning. 
The  bottom  is  to  be  thinned  and  cramped,  Fig.  105,  making  the  cramps 
about  I  inch  long  ;  open  each  alternate  one  and  lay  in  the  bottom 


Fig.  \o2).  — Razing  Down  Top  on  Bullet 
Stake. 


Fig.  104. —  Turning  Lag  on  Bottom  Stake. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


63 


which  should  go  in  easy,  but  not  too  loose  ;  lay  the  cramps  down  on 
the  bottom  stake,  Fig,  104,  and  popple  the  bottom,  when  it  will  be 
ready  for  brazing. 

The  spelter  should  be  fine,  clean,  and  free  from  dust.  With  a 
charger,  Fig.  106,  made  from  a  J-inch  rod,  having  the  end  flattened  out 
like  a  spoon,  lay  a  little  borax  and  water  around  the  cramps  on  the 
outside,  and  jar  it  through  the  joint ;  charge  the  joint  on  the  inside, 
laying  as  much  spelter  on  as  will  when  run  fill  up  the  joint,  follow- 
ing the  zigzag  line  of  the  cramps  ;  when  charged,  dry  slowly.  The 
fire  should  be  clean  and  free  from  coal.  A  nice  clean  coke  fire  is  best, 
but  if  coal  cinders  are  used  by  way  of  economy,  then  prevent  as  much 
as  possible  the  coal  from  coming  in  contact  with  the  joint.  When  the 
spelter  is  dry  take  a  piece  of  rough  but  clean  canvas  or  rag,  and  brush 
off  all  the  borax  on  the  outside,  so  that  no  inducement  be  offered  to 
the  solder  to  spread  further  than  is  necessary  from  the  joint  while  the 
spelter  is  being  run  around  the  seam.  Holding  the  pot  with  a  pair  of 
tongs,  heat  the  sides  gently  until  the  borax  is  all  down  ;  this  is  also 
done  for  the  purpose  of  distributing  or  charging  the  body  with  heat 
before  proceeding  to  run  the  joint ;  then  with  a  steady  blast  turn  it 
around,  turning  the  pot  with  two  handy  pokers  or  rods.  If  the  joint 
is  perfect  take  it  to  a  bullet  stake  and  pounce  the  bottom  up  enough 
so  that  the  sharp  corners  of  the  cramps  may  be  filed  off  easily  ;  clean 
them  off,  then  knock  the  joint  down.  Cover  the  surface  inside  and 
out  with  a  pickle  of  salt  and  water,  by  immersing  it  in  the 
pickle  tub,  and  while  wet  sprinkle  a  little  dry  salt  around  the  seam 
to  kill  the  borax.  Then  heat  it  to  a  bright  cherry  red  in  the  shade, 
and  thrust  it  into  the  pickle  tub.  If  there  be  any  borax  left  the  pot 
may  be  put  into  the  vitriol  tub  for  a  few  hours,  scoured  clean,  then 
dried  in  sawdust,  when  it  is  ready  for  planishing. 

Having  finished  the  two  vessels  as  described,  the  one  intended 
for  a  glue  pot  has  a  coat  of  Spanish  brown  rubbed  over  the  outside  ; 
the  one  intended  for  a  tea-kettle  is  kept  clean  and  bright.  The  plan- 
ishing is  first  begun  on  the  bottom  stake,  Fig.  104,  and  the  bottom 
made  flat  and  true,  the  lag  being  rounded  up  with  a  mallet,  then  the 
side  is  next  planished  on  a  suitable  head  in  the  shank.  Fig.  107. 

The  workman  should  be  seated  at  the  side  of  the  block  so 
his  left  side  is  toward  it,  the  arm  of  the  shank  extending  over 
the  end  of  the  block,  the  left  hand  holding  the  pot  or  kettle  with  the 
fingers  inside  and  the  thumb  outside  ;  the  right  knee  should  be  used 


64 


ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


to  steady  and  guide  the  work,  the  body  of  the  kettle  on  the  under 
side  resting-  on  the  left  knee,  and  the  lag  of  the  kettle  against  the 
right  ;  when  the  side  has  been  run  over,  the  other  end  of  the  shank 
is  used  and  the  top  planished.  They  are  now  to  be  tinned  inside, 
thus  :  A  little  new  muriatic  acid  is  rubbed  over  the  inside,  which  is 
next  scoured  and  rinsed  clean  ;  then  some  wet  whiteing  is  rubbed  on 
the  outside  to  keep  the  fire  from  affecting  the  surface.  The  clamp 
(see  Fig.  io8)  is  fastened  to  the  kettle  by  means  of  the  link  which 
slides  down  the  rod  and  thus  forms  a  handle.  The  inside  of  the  ket- 
tle is  to  be  rubbed  over  with  soldering  acid  in  which  a  little  salam- 
moniac  has  been  dissolved,  and  the  kettle  heated  enough  to  flow  tm 
or  solder,  enough  of  which  is  melted  and  poured  in  so  it  can  be 
rinsed  out  and  then  wiped  off  with  a  tow  wisp  wound  around  a  wire, 
Fig.  109.  After  tinning,  the  inside  is  washed  with  clean  water  and 
the  whiteing  washed  off  ;  when  it  is  dry  the  outside  of  the  kettle  is 
scoured  with  a  piece  of  flannel  moistened  with  sweet  oil  and  then 
wiped  off  clean.  It  is  now  ready  for  the  smoothing  course  of  planish- 
ing, which  is  done  with  a  spring-faced  hammer.  The  hole  for  the 
spout  is  now  to  be  cut  in  the  center  of  the  side,  the  hole  being  made  a 
half-inch  smaller  than  the  diameter  of  the  mouth  of  the  spout,  to  allow 
of  a  ^-inch  collar  being  worked  out  (see  Fig.  no)  to  fit  m  the  pitch 
of  the  spout.  Put  in  the  cover  ring.  Figs,  no  and  in,  and  turn  the 
edge  back  as  described  in  the  article  on  mounting  ;  then  fit  in  the 
spout,  closing  the  collar  around  the  pitch  with  the  collar-tool,  Fig. 
113,  and  soft  soldering  around  the  flange  on  the  inside  of  the  kettle 
The  handle  of  the  kettle  having  been  previously  pveipared  with  the 
ring  and  spout,  it  is  now  riveted  on,  also  the  ears  of  the  glue-pot. 


66 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  114. — Glue  Pot  zvith  Inside  Cup. 


Fig.  115. 


. — Cup  for  Making  Boss  on  Cover. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING.  67 


6. — Bullet-Head  Hammer. 


S.— Finished  Tea-Kettle.  ^k-  T~T^9'—Body  of  Oval  Tea-Kettle. 


— Method  of  Drawing  Oval 

Bottom.  Fig.  i'2i.—  0val  Tea-Kettle,  Showing  Top. 


68 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


The  inside  cup  of  the  glue  pot,  see  Fig.  114,  is  put  together  and 
the  seam  soldered  in  the  same  manner  as  the  outside,  and  the  bottom 
put  in  in  the  same  way.  The  top  may  be  wired  with  a  large  wire,  or 
an  edge  laid  off  square,  to  rest  on  the  ring  of  the  outside  boiler,  the 
bottom  of  the  cup  when  hanging  in  place  being  about  an  inch  above 
the  bottom  of  the  kettle.  The  cover  for  the  tea  kettle  is  next  in  order  : 
the  rim  is  made  to  fit  easy,  and  so  that  when  the  edge  of  the  rim  is  in 
the  cover  and  the  cover  paned  down,  the  cover  will  set  in  the  seat  of 
the  ring,  Fig.  113.  The  cover  is  hollowed  first,  and  then  the  boss  is 
worked  out  in  a  cup,  see  Fig.  115,  made  of  a  ferrule  of  strong  copper 
and  having  a  strig  ot  iron  secured  in  it  by  pouring  solder  around  a 
head  made  on  the  end  of  the  strig.  This  cup  is  held  in  a  vise,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  115,  and  the  boss  worked  out  with  a  bullet-faced  ham- 
mer, Fig.  116,  then  the  cover  is  planished  and  the  rim  and  knob  put 
in.  Fig.  117.  The  finished  tea  kettle  is  shown  in  Fig.  118.  When  the 
kettle  and  cover  are  completed  they  are  scoured  bright  with  a  piece 
of  flannel  moistened  with  sweet  oil,  to  which  a  little  Tripoli  is  added^ 


No.  of  Quarts. 

Length. 

Depth. 

Length  of  bar- 
rels and  straps. 

1/2  

20  inches. 

5  inches. 

4^  inches. 

21  " 

3  

22  " 

S% 

4  

24 

6 

5  

26 

6%  - 

6  

28 

7 

8  

32 

8 

7 

Dimensions  of  Round  Tea-Kettle  Bodies,  (^c. 

and  finally  polished  with  dry  Tripoli  powder.  Full  directions  are 
given  in  the  article  on  mounting  for  the  making  of  spouts  and 
handles. 

Oval  Tea-Kettles. 

Oval  tea-kettles.  Fig.  122,  have  usually  been  made  differently 
from  round  ones,  as  the  tops  are  generally  double-seamed  on,  al- 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


69 


though  occasionally  they  are  made  with  the  tops  razed  down  in  the 
same  way  as  are  the  round  ones.  There  have  been  quite  a  number  of 
fashions  and  some  artistic  skill  displayed  on  oval  tea-kettle  covers 
and  handles,  much  more  than  on  round  ones.  We  will  make  one, 
such  as  are  ordinarily  made  for  every-day  use  (the  learner  may  dis- 
play his  artistic  skill  at  his  leisure)  to  hold  i  gallon,  as  in  the  case  of 
the  round  kettle.  The  body  is  cut  23^  x  51^  inches,  and  from  a  10- 
pound  sheet.  The  body  is  to  be  put  together  in  a  sim.ilar  manner  to 
the  round  one  :  After  smoothing  the  edges,  thin  the  ends,  cramp  one, 
solder  the  joint,  clean  it  off,  knock  down  and  anneal.  Then  take  to  a 
head  and  work  in  a  light  course,  beginning  one-third  from  the  bot- 
tom, after  which  stag  in  the  lag  Vz  inch  wide,  partly  on  the  head,  fin- 
ishing on  the  bottom  stake  (Chap.  VII.,  Fig.  104)  and  thinning  the 
edge.  Cut  out  the  oval  bottom  Q,  Fig.  119,  making  it  a  trifle  larger 
than  the  hole  of  the  lag.  Fig.  120  shows  method  ot  drawing  bottom. 
Thin  the  edge  and  cramp  as  indicated  in  P,  Fig.  1 19,  then  lift  each 
alternate  cramp  and  put  the  bottom  in  from  the  inside,  lay  the  cramps 
down  close,  then  braze  and  finish,  and  tin  as  directed  for  the  round 


No.  of 
Pints 

Length  of 
body. 

Depth  of 
body. 

Weight  of  copper  for 

Body. 

Bottom. 

Spout  and 
barrel. 

2  

16X  inches. 

3^  inches. 

8 

pounds. 

10 

pounds. 

13  pounds. 

3  

4/8 

8 

T2 

u 

13 

A  

18X 

9 

12 

i( 

14 

5  

20%  - 

a 

9 

13 

li 

14 

6 

21%  - 

4^8 

<< 

9 

13 

14 

7  

22)4  " 

5X 

(I 

10 

13 

14 

8  

5/2 

u 

10 

14 

<t 

15  " 

10  

25^/2  " 

6 

a 

1 1 

14 

(I 

15 

12 . .  .. 

26/2  " 

i( 

1 1 

14 

i( 

'5  " 

Dimensions  of  Oval  Tea  Kettle  and  Weight  of  Copper. 

tea-kettle,  truing  it  up  to  the  shape  Q,  Fig.  119.  Turn  the  edge  for 
the  top  and  make  the  top,  Fig.  121,  which  is  to  be  double-seamed  on 


70 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


to  tne  Doay.  'i'he  cover  (see  Fisf.  122)  is  to  be  made  in  the  usual  man- 
ner, the  boss  being  sunk  in  an  oval  cup  similar  to  the  one  shown  in 
Fig.  115.  The  handle,  having  been  previously  made,  is  to  be  riveted 
on  and  the  rivet-heads  soldered  on  the  inside.  When  all  is  com- 
pleted, polish  for  the  storeroom  with  Tripoli,  as  previously  directed. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


71 


BEER  MULLERS. 

Copper  beer  mullers,  or  warming  pots,  will  next  engage  our  atten- 
tion. These  are  nice  little  jobs  for  a  boy,  progressive  in  their  char- 
acter, and  give,  after  the  first  three  years  of  drudgery,  some  relief  to 
the  monotony  of  scouring,  breaking  coke,  and  other  so-called  boy's 
work,  the  continued  repetition  of  which  has  often  been  the  means  of 
breaking  the  spirit  and  blighting  the  hopes  of  many  a  good  promising 
lad,  who  has  been  kept  dragging  along,  year  after  year,  wasting 
precious  time  at  work  that  should  have  been  shared  between  man 
and  boy,  and  which  could  have  been  done  without  loss  or  detriment, 
but  rather  a  benefit  to  both.  I  would  pause  to  plead  for  the  boys  of 
the  coming  generation  as  I  have  often  done  for  those  of  the  past, 
craving  for  them  sympathy,  when  they  have  been  compelled  to  com- 
plain (and  justly,  too,)  of  the  amount  of  time  which  has  been  sacri- 
ficed by  them  in  incessant  and  unnecessary  drudgery,  often  times, 
too,  with  a  man  who  was  altogether  inferior  m  perception  or  mechan- 
ical ability  to  the  lad  placed  under  his  control.  If  a  lad  is  once  given 
a  place  in  a  shop  to  learn  any  trade,  he  should  have  a  chance  to  de- 
velop at  least  his  own  natural  ability,  even  though  the  kind  attention 
he  should  receive  be  withheld. 

Beer  mullers  are  made  after  three  general  designs,  peaked,  open 
and  curved.  Our  first  job  at  these  (and  they  were  the  first  vessels  we 
began  and  finished  complete)  was  a  half  dozen  ^  pints,  three  with 
lips  and  three  without.  We  will  now  describe  the  various  operations: 
A  pint  (British  standard)  muller,  Fig.  123,  measues  2^  inches  at 
top,  3^  inches  deep  and  3  inches  at  bottom.  To  describe  the  pattern  : 
Let  C  D  F  G,  Fig.  124,  represent  the  elevation  of  article,  which  is 
shown  3)^  inches  deep,  to  allow  for  wire  at  top  and  edge  at  bottom. 
Through  the  center  draw  the  center  line  K  B.  Extend  the  lines  F  D 
and  G  C,  until  they  meet  the  center  line  as  at  B,  Then  B  C  and  B  G 
are  the  radii  of  the  arcs  which  contain  the  pattern.  With  B  as  a 
center,  describe  the  arcs  J  N  and  H  L  indefinitely.  Upon  the  arc  J  N 
measure  the  circumference  of  tlie  bottom  of  article,  and  from  these 
points,  as  J  and  N,  draw  lines  to  the  center  B.  Then  L  H  J  N  will  be 
the  pattern  for  the  article  shown  by  C  D  F  G.    Having  obtained  the 


his^.  125. —  7u7'ning  Over  Ed^c  for  Wire. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


73 


74 


ART    OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


pattern,  it  is  to  be  cut  out  of  about  6-pound  plate  ;  thin  the  edges, 
cramp  and  form,  and  braze  the  seam  ;  then  clean  off  and  knock  down 
the  joint,  and  anneal.  Now  turn  the  edge  over  for  the  wire,  as  shown 
in  Fig.  125,  and  work  in  a  course  from  the  bottom  to  form  the  curve 
or  bell  at  the  base,  as  shown  in  Fig.  126.  It  is  then  ready  for  tinning 
inside.  When  tinned  and  scoured  it  is  ready  for  planishing,  which  is 
done  on  a  bright  side  stake,  with  a  small  spring-faced  hammer.  Fig. 
127 — that  is,  a  hammer  with  an  extra  face  of  thin  sheet  steel,  made 
and  fitted  as  follows  :  A  piece  of  sheet  steel,  of  a  suitable  thickness,  in 
this  case  about  20  gauge,  is  cut,  as  shown  in  Fig.  128,  the  tv/o  ends 
turned  up  as  in  Fig.  129,  to  fit  the  hammer- face,  the  lugs  being  placed 
in  a  line  with  the  handle.  When  fitted  suitably  lay  between  the 
hammer-face  and  the  spring-face  two  or  three  layers  of  French  shal- 
loon, which  answers  as  a  cushion;  now  bind  the  lugs  with  a  stout  piece 
of  binding  wire,  and  turn  the  points  of  the  lugs  down  on  the  wire  in 
such  a  way  that  they  will  tend  to  draw  the  spring-face  close  up  and 
tight  to  the  hammer.  After  polishing,  it  is  ready  for  use.  The  job 
must  now  be  cleaned  inside  and  out  with  a  piece  of  nice  soft  rag,  then 
commencing  close  up  to  the  wiring  edge  with  the  hammer,  begin  to 
planish  and  follovvr  each  course  around  the  body  until  the  bottom  is. 
reached;  then  again  clean  it  inside  and  out,  and  planish  it  over  again, 
to  smooth  and  finish  it.  Now  put  in  the  wire  and  then  the  bottom, 
which  is  done  thus:  With  a  creasing  hammer.  Fig.  130,  on  the  creasing 
iron.  Fig.  131,  sink  the  edge  around  the  bottom  edge,  being  careful  to 
make  it  regular  and  true.  Then  lift  the  edge  enough  to  lay  the  bot- 
tom in  the  crease  as  shown  in  Fig.  132,  the  bottom  having  been  pre- 
viously tinned  and  planished,  bring  the  edge  down  close  and  solder 
the  bottom  around  inside,  or  if  preferred  the  bottom  may  be  soldered 
on  the  outside,  keeping  the  soldering-iron  as  close  to  the  outside  edge 
as  possible,  that  the  work  may  be  neatly  done.  When  this  is  done 
form  the  lip  on  an  extinguisher  stake  as  shown  in  Fig.  133  by  placing 
the  cup  on  the  beak,  and  with  a  hatchet-shaped  mallet  sink  the  wire 
on  each  side  of  the  stake,  a  little  at  a  time,  until  the  lip  is  formed. 
Then  with  the  wooden  set,  see  Fig.  133,  made  of  boxwood  and  smooth 
like  the  pane  ot  a  hammer,  shape  the  V  of  the  lip  on  the  point  of  the 
stake,  letting  the  point  extend  a  third  down  the  body,  or  they  may  be 
left  v/ithout  the  V,  the  wiring  only  being  bent.  Make  the  handle, 
Fig.  134,  4  inches  long  from  30-pound  plate,  the  edges  being  made 
round  and  burnished,  ana  the  surface  planished  smooth;  after  bend- 


Fig.  133. — Forming  Lip  on  Muller. 


76  ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 

ing  into  shape  as  shown,  rivet  on  and  clean  the  article.  liandles  for 
the  three  largest  sizes  of  mullers  are  made  hollow  and  bent,  having 
a  flap  brazed  on  as  shown  in  Fig.  135,  the  small  end  being  flattened 
and  filed  to  the  desired  shape. 


Fig.  134. — Handle  for  Small  Muller.  Fig.  135. — Handle  for  Large  Muller. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


77 


Fig.  138. — Pattern  for  Peaked  MuUer. 


Fig.  iT,g.— Pitched  Cover. 


78 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


The  peaked  Muller,  Fig.  136,  is  an  old  design,  and  was  made  in 
two  sizes — namely,  pint  and  quart,  while  the  covered  mullers  of  the 
shape  illustrated  in  Fig.  137  were  made  in  five  sizes,  from  K  pint  to  2 
quart — that  is,  Vz  pint,  pint,  quart,  3  pint  and  2  quart. 

The  peaked  muller.  Fig.  136,  is  made  m  two  ways;  in  the  one  the 
side  is  brazed  together;  in  the  other  it  is  grooved;  if  the  side  is  brazed 
the  work  is  similar  to  that  already  described.  If  the  side  is  to  be  grooved 
the  pattern  is  tinned,  planished,  wired  and  the  edges  are  turned,  be- 
fore being  formed  into  shape,  after  which  the  point  is  flattened  and 
turned  over,  as  shown  in  Fig.  136.  The  pattern  for  a  muller  of  this 
conical  shape  to  hold  3  pihts  is  shown  in  Fig.  138,  and  should  measure 
6  inches  at  the  brim  inside  and  about  1 1  long  after  the  point  has  been 
flattened  and  curled. 

The  covered  muller,  Fig.  137,  was  made  similar  to  the  one  shown 
in  Fig.  123,  but  with  a  socket  and  wood  handle,  the  body  curving  the 
other  way,  as  shown,  it  also  had  a  pitched  cover.  To  pitch  a  cover  is 
to  raise  it  in  the  center,  Fig.  139,  a  certain  distance,  which  is  roughly 
done  on  the  block,  Fig.  140,  having  a  suitable  hole  cut  in  it  for  this  pur- 
pose, and  with  the  hammer  like  the  one  shown  in  Fig.  142,  having  one 
round  face  and  the  other  oblong.  With  the  round  face  sink  or  beat 
the  copper  into  the  hole  in  the  block,  allowing  the  edge  to  pucker  up 
all  around  until  the  pitch  is  of  sufficient  depth,  which  takes  two 
courses  to  complete,  then  raze  down  the  wrinkles  with  a  mallet  and 
smooth  with  a  hammer;  next  tin  the  inside  of  the  cover  and  planish 
it,  first  on  a  small  bottom  stake.  Fig.  141,  and  then  on  a  side  stake, 
Fig.  142,  or  some  other  suitable  head,  with  the  oblong  face  of  the  ham- 
mer, and,  lastly,  on  a  bright  anvil,  held  in  an  upright  shank.  Fig.  143, 
planish  the  outer  ring  and  wire  the  edge.  The  cover  should  be  large 
enough,  so  that  the  wire  of  the  body  will  just  fit  in  the  wiring  of  the 
cover.  The  joint  or  hinge  of  the  cover  shown  in  Fig.  144  is  slipped 
through  the  notch  left  in  the  wiring  of  the  body  and  then  riveted  to 
the  cover.  The  bottom  may  be  doubled  seamed  on  or  put  in  as  has 
been  described  for  open  mullers.  The  socket  for  the  handle  is  placed 
in  the  middle  of  the  body,  as  shown  in  Fig.  137. 


Fig.  144. — Cover  Hmge. 


Fig.  143. — Anvil  Held  in  Upright  Shank. 


8o 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


FUNNELS. 

Copper  Funnels,  Fig.  145,  were  generally  made  brown,  in  size 
from  pint  to  gallon,  namely  :  pint,  quart,  3  pint,  ^  gallon,  and  gallon. 
Let  us  make  one  to  hold  a  ^  gallon  ;  that  is,  one  into  which  a  Yz  gal- 
lon of  liquor  may  be  dumped  without  running  ovei*.  It  will  be  found 
that  an  8-inch  cone  whose  slant  hight  is  equal  to  its  diameter  will 
hold  approximately  a  ^  gallon,  Imperial  measure.  Funnels  have 
always  been  made  of  one  style,  and  formed  of  one-half  a  disk  whose 
radius  is  equal  to  the  diameter  of  the  mouth  of  the  funnel.  Braziers, 
however,  tuck  in  the  mouth  from  i  to  2  inches,  according  to  the 
size.  Our  pattern,  then,  will  be  >^  of  a  16-inch  disk,  ^  of  an  inch 
being  added  for  wire,  and  the  hole  for  the  outlet  being  i  and  ^  inches 
when  finished,  being  cut  ^  less  to  allow  of  a  narrow  collar  being 
worked  out  to  lap  on  the  spout.  Cut  out  the  pattern.  Fig.  146,  from 
8-pound  plate,  thin,  cramp,  form  and  join  as  in  Fig.  147,  then  anneal 
and  tuck  in  the  rim  on  a  side  stake.  Fig.  148.  The  edge  is  next 
turned  for  the  wire,  with  a  crease  iron  and  hammer,  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  the  edge  of  the  beer  mullers  was  turned.  It  is  now  ready  for 
tinning ;  when  tinned  and  scoured,  wipe  the  inside  with  a  soft  rag, 
and  rub  some  Spanish  brown  over  the  outside,  then  planish  on  the 
bright  head.  Fig.  150;  put  in  the  wire.  Fig.  149,  and  it  is  ready  for  the 
spout.  The  spout  should  be  pitched  and  flanged  as  at  H,  Fig.  151, 
and  the  outlet  collared  as  at  K,  so  that  when  the  spout  is  in,  and  the 
collar  set  down  close,  it  will  be  held  fast  as  at  J  It  is  then  to  be 
soldered  on  the  inside,  being  careful  that  no  solder  runs  through  to 
mar  the  outside  ;  put  on  the  ring  and  clean.  Bright  heads,  Fig.  150, 
are  shaped  in  such  a  way  that  their  faces  form  as  it  were  a  section  of 
of  the  funnel,  with  the  heel  made  to  fit  the  booge  or  rim,  and  are 
used  principally  for  these  funnels  and  the  kind  of  spirit  measures 
shown  in  Fig.  152. 


Fig.  147. — Funnel  Formed  and 
Cramped. 


Fig.  148. —  Tucking  in  Rim  on  Side  Stake, 


82 


ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


I 


ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


83 


COFFEE  POTS. 

Coffee  pots  were  made  as  shown  in  Fig.  153,  and  somewhat  similar 
to  the  muller,  Fig.  123,  but  their  hight  was  two  and  a  half  times  the  top 
diameter;  that  is,  if  the  diameter  at  the  top  is  4  inches,  the  pot  would  be 
10  inches  deep,  and  the  bottom  one  and  a  half  times  the  top,  or  6  inches 
in  diameter.  They  were  made  in  four  sizes,  namely  :  3-pint,  2-quart,  3- 
quart  and  4-quart.  An  imperial  >^  gallon  contains  138  cubic  inches,  and 
a  frustum  of  a  cone  whose  dimensions  are  3^  inches  at  top,  5)^  inches 
at  bottom  and  9  inches  deep,  will  hold  150  cubic  inches  ;  but  when 
the  curve  is  given  to  the  side,  by  working  in  a  course  and  smoothing, 
the  capacity  is  reduced  enough  so  that  the  pot  will  hold  just  about  % 
a  gallon  when  it  is  finished.  It  is  well  to  say  here  that  all  such  vessels 
as  these  only  approximate  to  the  capacity  named,  most  of  them  hold- 
ing somewhat  more  than  the  given  amount.  The  pattern  is  cut 
according  to  the  method  already  shown  in  Fig.  124,  an  8-pound  plate 
being  used  for  the  purpose.  After  the  seam  has  been  made  and  the 
body  annealed,  take  in  a  course  on  a  side  stake,  as  previously  explained 
in  Fig.  126,  until  the  body  appears  straight  one-third  the  depth  from 
the  top,  and  then  gradually  hollow  out  the  remaining  two-thirds,  bell 
fashion,  down  to  the  bottom  ;  smooth,  true  up  and  turn  the  edge  over 
for  wire,  when  it  is  ready  for  tinning.  When  this  operation  has  been 
performed  it  is  planished  on  a  bright  side  stake,  and  the  wire  put  in, 
Fig.  154.  The  hole  for  the  spout  is  next  cut,  the  center  of  the  hole 
being  one-third  the  depth  from  the  bottom  of  the  body.  Fig.  155.  Cut 
out  the  spout,  Fig.  156,  thin  the  edge,  turn  it  round  and  braze  the 
seam  ;  clean  off  the  seam  and  tin  the  spout  inside  ;  then  round  up  and 
smooth  with  a  mallet,  after  which  take  a  suitable  stick  or  a  file,  and 
with  emery  cloth  lapped  around  it  prepare  the  spout  for  the  bur- 
nisher, and  burnish  it.  Now  pitch  the  spout  on  the  under  side, 
Fig.  157,  then  work  out  the  collar  of  the  pot.  Fig.  155  D,  to  fit  in  the 
pitch  of  the  spout,  Fig.  157,  and  then  put  in  the  spout.  Set  down  the 
collar  close  to  the  spout  with  a  set  shaped  like  a  gouge,  the  end  being 
square  or  blunt  ;  then  put  in  a  small  rivet  at  the  end  of  the  spout 
Fig.  155  D,  and  solder  it  inside.  Next  put  in  the  bottom  the  same  as 
was  done  with  the  open  muller  and  solder  it  inside.    The  socket  for 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


8s 


Pig,  i^-j.— Coffee  Pot  Spout.  Fig.  160— Paning  Hammer  for  Covers. 


86 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


the  wooden  handle,  shown  in  Fig.  158,  is  made  as  before  directed  for 
hand  bowls  and  the  cover  is  pitched  the  same  as  for 
mullers..  The  coffee  pot  cover,  however,  must  have  a  rim  about 
^  inch  wide,  when  edged  ready  for  the  cover.  In  order  to  turn  the 
edge  on  cover  (as  we  had  no  burring  machine),  we  had  to  use  the  tool 
shown  in  Fig.  159,  of  which  there  were  three  different  sizes.  They 
were  called  taking  up  stakes;"  that  is,  stakes  for  taking  up  the 
edges  of  bottoms  and  covers.  The  bottom  end  of  the  stake  enlarged 
so  as  to  fit  the  hole  made  for  it  in  the  bench.  The  edge  of  the  cover, 
after  the  rim  is  in,  is  pained  down  with  a  hammer  kept  especially  for 
the  purpose,  as  shown  in  Fig.  160.  Now  put  in  the  joint  or  hinge 
through  the  notch  left  of  the  wiring,  and  through  a  notch  left  in  the 
rim  of  the  cover  and  rivet  on  the  cover,  put  in  the  wooden  handle, 
then  clean  the  article  for  the  storeroom.  Some  coffee-pots  had  bent 
spouts,  like  tea  kettle  spouts,  which  made  a  more  ornamental  coffee 
pot  than  when  plain  spouts  were  used. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


87 


SAUCEPANS  AND   PUDDING  POTS. 

It  is  probable  that  among  the  culinary  utensils  made  by  braziers 
40  years  ago  there  were  more  saucepans  than  almost  any  other 
article  ;  but  later  on  the  French  stew-pan  seemed  to  supercede  the 
saucepan  altogether,  excepting  in  a  few  instances,  such  as  the 
smaller  sizes,  which  were  made  with  lips  and  used  for  the  prepara- 
tion of  little  delicacies.  Copper  pudding  pots  were  also  in  good  de- 
mand before  they  were  supplanted  by  those  made  of  cast  iron,  which 
were  not  only  tastefully  designed,  but  were  much  cheaper  and  safer 
to  use,  where  those  made  from  copper  were  apt  to  be  neglected  and  not 
kept  clean  and  properly  tinned.  The  progressive  braziers  were,  how- 
ever, equal  to  the  emergency,  and  turned  their  attention  to  the  manu- 
facture of  wrought  iron  goods,  made  in  the  same  way  and  after  the 
same  fashion  as  the  copper  goods. 

It  may  be  stated  here,  for  the  benefit  of  the  learner,  that  the  pro- 
portions of  all  vessels  are  in  ratio  to  one  another  as  the  cubes  of  their 
diameters  ;  hence  a  boy  who  has  the  desire  to  become  proficient  and 
make  an  efficient  workman,  and  understand  the  proper  proportions  of 
the  work  he  is  engaged  at,  should  make  himself  conversant  with  solid 
geometry,  and  thus  be  prepared  to  work  out  any  example  in  cubic 
proportion  likely  to  be  called  for.  Two  examples  will  be  given, 
showing  how  the  dimensions  of  all  sizes  smaller  and  larger  than  one 
gallon  may  be  obtained,  providing  the  utensil  is  made  of  a  straight 
strip.  The  strip  for  a  gallon  saucepan  is  cut  24  inches  long  by  7 
inches  wide.  Let  it  be  required  to  make  one  to  hold  6  quarts.  The 
strip  of  metal  24  inches  long  is  to  be  formed  into  a  cylinder  thus  : 
24  3.1416  =  7.6394,  its  diameter,  and  as  all  cylinders  are  to  each 
other  as  the  cube  of  their  diameters,  and  as  we  want  a  cylinder  to 
hold  one-half  as  much  more,  and  in  the  same  proportions  as  to  hight, 

we  cube  the  diameter  of  the  first  cylinder — namely,  —  ^  =  4^^^^^93 

^    7.6394  2 

4.2  2  2  20^  ^  / 

and  then  - — ^— 3  =  ^ZZ-Z^Z^        y  ^ZZ'Z\Z'^  =  ^-S^*  diameter 

of  a  cylinder  required  for  a  6-quart  saucepan.  Then  7.6394  :  7  :: 
8.58  :  7.86,  and  8.58  x  3.1416  =  26.9549.    Therefore  the  sheet  for  a 


88 


ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  162,.— Pudding  Pot  Cover. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


89 


Fig.  169. — Slack  Left  for  Forming  Lip. 


Fig.  170.—  Oval  Ptidding  Pot. 


90 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


6-quart  saucepan  would  be  27  inches  long  and  7^  inches  deep,  ap- 
proximately— that  is,  near  enough  for  practical  purposes.  Again,  let 
it  be  required  to  make  a  sauce  pan  to  hold  3  quarts.    Then  proceed- 


6.81,  the  diameter  of  a  cylinder  required  to  hold  3  quarts.  Then  6.81 
X  3.1416  =  21.3942,  the  length.  Now,  7.6349  :  7  ::  6.81  :  6.23 — that  is, 
the  sheet  for  a  3-quart  saucepan  would  be  approximately  21^  inches 
long  by  6%  inches  deep. 

Copper  saucepans.  Fig.  i6t,  were  made  in  sizes  to  hold  from  i 
pint  to  4  gallons.  Pudding  pots,  Fig.  162,  from  3  to  6,  and  sometimes 
as  large  as  8  gallons.  As  the  work  of  making  plain  saucepans  and 
round  pudding  pots  is  the  same,  excepting  a  little  variation  in  the 
shape,  we  will  make  one  to  hold  i  gallon  ;  the  other  sizes  being  made 
in  the  same  manner.  It  will  be  seen  from  an  inspection  of  Fig.  161 
that  a  I  gallon  saucepan  is  the  frustrum  of  a  cone  with  the  base 
turned  in,  forming  at  that  point  almost  one-half  an  oblate  spheroid. 
The  brazier's  measurement  of  a  gallon  saucepan  is  taken  from  lag  to 
brim,  as  shown  in  Fig.  164,  and  should  measure  9^  inches.  (The 
writer  has  one  made  by  himself  in  the  year  1856  which  was  in  con- 
stant use  up  to  1872,  and  is  apparently  as  good  as  when  new,  if  re- 
tinned  and  made  fit  for  use.  This  old  relic  measures  7  inches  in 
diameter  at  the  brim,  6}(  inches  deep,  7^  inches  at  the  lag,  from  lag 
to  brim  9^  inches,  and  at  the  swell  or  belly,  9  inches.  It  is  made 
from  16-pound  plate,  with  No.  6  wire.)  The  body  for  a  gallon  sauce- 
pan is  cut  24  inches  long  and  7  inches  deep,  and  may  be  made  from 
12  to  18  pound  plate.  The  pattern  is  to  be  formed  and  the  seam  made 
as  previously  described  ;  then  divide  the  depth  into  three  parts,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  165,  and  with  a  mallet  proceed  to  raze  in  a  course  a 
third  from  the  end,  as  at  a  j  now  turn  it  end  for  end  and  raze  in  a 
course.  Fig.  166,  b,  on  the  other  side  of  the  same  line  we  started  from 
before,  drawing  in  the  side  until  it  is  7  inches  at  the  top,  and  about 

inches  at  the  bottom.  Then  stag  in  the  lag  >^  inch,  Fig.  167, 
partly  on  head  and  finishing  on  a  bottom  stake,  and  thinning  the  edge 
on  a  bullet  stake  ;  cramp  and  put  in  the  bottom  B,  braze  the  seam, 
clean  it  off,  knock  down,  and  anneal ;  then  true  it  up  on  a  long  head, 
from  the  swell  to  the  brim,  and  turn  the  edge  for  the  wire.   Now  true 


ing  similarly  as  above, 


76394 


=  422.2293,  and  as  there  are  4  quarts  in 


3 


a  gallon,  we  proceed  thus  : 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


91 


Up  the  lag  and  beige  on  a  suitable  round- head,  and  it  is  ready  for  the 
pickle  tub  and  annealing,  atter  which  it  is  scoured  bright  and  dried 
in  the  sawdust  box.  It  is  now  to  be  put  into  its  final  shape  and 
planished  all  over  one  course,  beginning  with  the  bottom,  and  next 
the  sides  ;  then  tin  it  inside  with  pure  tin.  After  being  tinned  and 
scoured  clean,  it  is  planished  again,  this  time  on  a  suitable  bright 
head,  and  smoothed  ;  then  the  wire  is  put  in  and  handle  riveted  on. 
The  cover  is  next  in  order  ;  the  rim  of  the  cover  is  made  slightly 
flaring,  and  the  top  pitched  about  Yz  inch  ;  then  tinned  and  planished. 
When  the  whole  is  complete,  as  in  Fig.  161,  it  is  scoured  and  polished 
with  oil  and  tripoli. 

In  making  lipped  saucepans,  Fig.  168,  the  work  is  done  nearly  the 
same,  excepting  that  while  drawing  from  the  beige  to  th.e  brim 
enough  slack  is  left  at  the  left  of  the  seam  to  form  the  lip — that  is,  we 
work  around  the  lip,  leaving  the  brim,  as  it  were,  egg  shaped,  as  in 
Fig.  169,  until  the  planishing  is  completed  and  the  wiring  has  been 
done  ;  then  the  lip  is  put  into  final  shape  on  an  extinguisher  stake. 
The  cover  is  made  with  a  projection  to  cover  the  lip,  but  the  rim  is 
round  ;  the  handle  is  of  wood  inserted  into  a  socket,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  168.  Lipped  saucepans  are  seldom  made  to  hold  more  than 
I  gallon. 

Round  pudding  pots.  Fig.  162,  were  made  similar  to  saucepans, 
but  with  a  bail  and  ears  and  somewhat  less  m  depth  ;  thus  the  body  for 
a  pudding  pot  to  hold  3  gallons  was  cut  about  34  inches  long  and  8>^  deep, 
being  worked  up  m  the  same  manner  as  a  round  saucepan,  only  hav- 
ing a  bail  and  ears,  as  shown.  The  cover  for  pudding  pot  is  shown  in 
Fig.  163.  Oval  pudding  pots.  Fig.  170,  were  made  similarly  and  cut 
the  same  size  as  the  round  ones  ;  both  differed  a  little  in  shape  from 
the  saucepans,  the  difference  being  in  the  beige  or  belly,  which  was 
drawn  in  at  the  top  and  bottom  alike.  Let  us  make  an  oval  pot  to 
hold  4  gallons,  the  body  being  cut  from  a  14-pound  sheet,  being 
34  x  8^  inches.  The  body  is  to  be  formed  and  seam  made  in  the 
usual  manner,  and  the  depth  divided  into  three  parts,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  165,  the  form  of  oval  is  indicated  in  Fig.  171,  making  it  12  inches 
long.  The  sides  are  to  be  razed  in  at  both  ends  until  the  beige  has  a 
curve  of  about  an  inch  ;  then  stag  in  the  lag  and  put  in  the  bottom,  as 
indicated  in  Fig.  167  ;  true  up  the  body  to  shape  and  roughly  planish, 
or  run  it  over  with  a  hammer.  Then  turn  the  top  edge  for  wire  and 
tin,  after  which  scour  and  dry  ;  then  finish  planishing  and  smooth  on 


92 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


a  suitable  head.  Pitch  the  cover  a  good  ^  inch  and  tin,  then  planish 
it  and  put  in  the  rim,  which  should  be  about  i/s  inch  wide.  Next 
put  on  the  ears,  the  rivet  holes  of  which  should  be  countersunk 
enough  so  that  the  rivet  heads  may  be  drawn  in  and  be  flush  and 
smooth  with  the  surtace  inside.  The  bail  can  be  tinned  or  iapanned, 
as  desired. 


Fi^.  171. — P/an  of  Oval  Pudding  Pot. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


95 


STEWPANS. 

As  previously  stated,  stewpans  seemed  to  take  the  place  of  sauce- 
pans in  a  great  measure  after  their  introduction,  because  they  were 
handier  and  more  easily  made;  then,  again,  there  were  long  and  rapid 
strides  being  made  in  the  perfecting  of  cooking  apparatus  in  general, 
all  tending  to  a  complete  revolution  of  culinary  apparatus  and  methods. 
The  general  progress  in  education  and  the  advances  made  on  every 
hand  were  felt  by  the  braziers,  as  well  as  others,  and  the  surround- 
ing influences  compelled  them,  though  a  little  reluctantly,  to  keep 
pace  with  the  advancing  tide  about  them  and  acquiesce  in  the  de- 
mand for  more  tasty  and  shapely  goods.  An  old=fashioned  stewpan 
is  represented  in  Fig.  172.  At  first  there  seemed  to  be  but  little  at- 
tention paid  to  the  symmetry  of  the  parts;  the  handles  were  roughly 
made,  and  apparently  without  any  particular  design,  so  long  as  it  was 
something  to  hold  by;  the  flap  was  clumsily  made,  seemingly  to  get 
as  much  weight  into  it  as  possible.  The  pan  proper  was  the  best 
piece  of  work  about  it,  and  this,  when  compared  with  others  of  later 
make,  was  poor  enough,  and  directly  resulted  from  the  opposition  to 
any  innovation  or  change  from  the  old  usages,  and  yet  the  work 
on  the  old-fashioned  pan  m  its  way  really  required  more  skill  than 
those  of  a  more  recent  date.  The  lag  being  made  at  first  sharp  or 
square,  many  an  otherwise  good  piece  of  work  has  been  spoiled  in  the 
finishing  by  being  cut  through,  or  nearly  so,  on  the  sharp  edge  of  the 
old-fashioned  bottom  stake.  This  was  at  last  obviated  by  making  the 
lag  round,  thus  adding  beauty  to  the  pan  and  at  the  same  time  over- 
coming all  danger  of  failure  at  this  point. 

Let  us  make  a  stewpan  after  the  old-fashioned  method,  and  then 
show  the  difference  between  the  old  and  new  methods.  At  first  they 
were  made  in  accordance  with  the  taste  of  the  master,  or  if  it  hap- 
pened that  he  was  not  a  practical  man,  then  the  workman  was  relied 
upon  to  produce  the  best  design  he  could;  but  later  more  attention 
was  paid  to  the  wants  of  the  cook,  and  stewpans  have  been  made  in 
several  styles  to  suit  their  demands — namely,  shallow,  medium  and 
deep.  The  shallow  ones  were  one-half  their  diameter  in  hight,  the 
medium  two-thirds  and  the  deep  as  high  as  their  diameter — that  is. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


95 


where  attention  was  paid  to  the  matter.  There  were,  however,  then 
as  now  many  different  styles,  which  we  will  leave  to  the  investigation 
of  the  reader,  the  immediate  object  being  to  show  him  the  manner  and 
means  adopted  to  produce  the  pan,  or  the  execution  of  the  mechanical 
part;  so  we  will  proceed  to  make  one  of  medium  hight  to  hold  a  gal- 
lon. Stewpans  were  made  light  or  heavy  to  suit  the  wants  of  the  pur- 
chaser, or  to  meet  competition  in  price;  generally  they  were  made 
heavy.  Let  the  example  be  made  from  a  30-pound  plate,  and  of  me- 
dium hight.  The  dimensions  of  a  stewpan  to  hold  1  gallon  are  found 
in  the  following  manner  :  A  gallon  (English)  of  water  contains 
277.274  cubic  inches,  and  the  pan  is  to  be  two-thirds  its  diameter  in 
277  274 

hight.  Then  ^  x  3  =  415.91 1,  the  cubic  contents  of  a  cylinder  as 
as    high  as  its  diameter.    Then    converting  this    into  cylinder 

inches,    we  have  ^^^'^g^^^  =  529.551,    and    extracting    the  cube 

3  /  

root    of    this    we    get  4/529.551  =  8.089         the  diameter,  and  as 

8  080 

the  pan  is  to  be  two-thirds  of  this,  — -  x  2  =  5.392,  the  hight  of  the 

3 

pan  inside  measurerpent,  to  which  add  the  thickness  of  the  metal, 
and  we  have  5^  inches  for  the  hight,  and  8  inches  the  diameter,  ap- 
proximately. Then  the  dimensions  of  a  stewpan  of  medium  hight 
to  hold  a  gallon  would  be  8  inches  in  diameter,  and  5^  inches  deep 
when  finished  ;  therefore  our  pattern  requires  to  be  25)^  inches  long 
and  6  inches  deep,  allowing  ^  inch  for  lag.  Cut  out  the  pattern 
cramp  it  with  a  chisel  and  thin.  (For  the  benefit  of  the  learner  I  will 
here  state  that  it  is  the  custom  among  braziers  to  cut  their  cramps  in 
heavy  metal  before  thinning  ;  coppersmiths  on  the  other  hand  do  the 
thinning  first,  and  cut  the  cramps  after,  and  both  ways  have  their 
advantages  in  particular  cases  which  practice  alone  can  teach  and 
point  out).  Now  form  it  and  braze  the  seam  as  previously  described  ; 
clean  olf  and  knock  down  ;  then  stag  in  the  lag,  and  thin  the  edge 
ready  for  the  bottom  ;  put  in  the  bottom  and  braze  it  round  ;  trim 
and  knock  down  the  seam  ;  anneal,  and  true  up  to  size.  The 
lag  being  carefully  formed  on  the  heel  of  a  suitable  head,  as  in  Fig. 
174,  it  is  now  ready  for  the  tinning.  When  tinned  and  scoured,  it  is 
first  planished  on  a  bright  bottom  stake,  making  the  bottom  level  and 
true,  and  then  the  sides  on  a  bright  head  in  a  shank,  the  smoothing 
being  finished  with  a  spring-faced  hammer.    The  sides  and  bottom 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


97 


completed,  the  lag  was  finished  up  square  with  a  hammer,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  175,  and  here  is  where  the  failure  came  in  usually,  by  the  lag  be- 
ing cut  through,  or  nearly  so,  at  this  point.  The  covers  were  first 
pitched  with  a  square  corner,  as  shown  in  the  top  illustration,  Fig. 
176,  the  seat  being  turned  with  the  long  face  of  a  coffee  pot  hammer, 
Fig.  177,  and  finished  with  a  planishing  hammer  on  the  anvil,  shown 
in  Fig.  176.  The  work  on  the  improved  pan  would  be  the  same  up  to 
this  point,  the  difference  being  in  forming  the  lag  round  on  the  heel 
of  the  head.  Fig.  178,  it  being  made  round  and  suitable  for  the  pur- 
pose. This  in  time  was  superseded  by  a  lagging  machine,  upon  which 
dies  or  wheels  (similar  to  a  double  seamer)  of  various  sizes  could  be 
placed  suitable  for  all  kinds  and  sizes  of  pots  and  pans  whose  sides 
were  made  straight  or  parallel.  The  covers  were  also  treated  in  the 
same  way  as  the  lag  of  the  pan.  About  this  time  the  burring  machine 
was  introduced  for  turniag  the  seat  of  the  cover  and  a  few  other  pur- 
poses, and  for  a  wonder  it  was  received  without  much  opposition. 

The  tinning  of  these  improved  pans  was  carried  down  on  the  out- 
side from  I  inch  to  1%  inches,  according  to  the  size  of  the  pan,  and 
was  done  as  follows  :  The  distance  it  was  required  to  tin  down,  the 
side  being  determined,  it  was  then  marked  off,  and  some  wet  whiting 
or  black  and  size  (plumber's  soil)  was  carefully  smeared  on  with  a 
brush  around  and  up  to  the  mark,  to  prevent  the  tin  from  adhering 
further  than  the  mark,  and  to  keep  it  true  to  it.  It  was  then  im- 
mersed in  a  pan  of  liquid  tin.  Fig.  179  ;  a  clamp  was  then-applied,  and 
while  the  operation  of  tinning  was  being  proceeded  with,  inside  the 
outside  tinning  was  wiped  off  smooth  and  completed  at  the  same  time. 
The  planishing  was  performed  as  before  described,  only  the  lag  was 
carefully  rounded  with  a  mallet,  and  burnished  to  correspond  with 
the  other  finish.  The  handles  were  lighter,  more  graceful,  and  formed 
so  as  to  be  placed  nearly  in  the  center  of  the  side;  the  flaps  were  of 
a  triangular  shape  and  light.  Fig.  173  B,  which  gave  the  article  a 
much  more  finished  appearance,  and  displayed  more  tasty  workman- 
ship. There  seems  to  have  been  no  deviation  made  since  either  in 
the  pans  or  their  handles,  or  none  to  my  knowledge.  The  old  style 
handle  and  flap  is  shown  in  Fig.  173  A.  When  the  pan  and  cover  are 
finished,  the  handle  of  the  cover  is  put  on  first,  and  then  the  handle 
of  the  pan.  This  rule  is  observed  to  insure  both  handles  being  close 
and  in  a  line  with  each  other,  so  that  the  cook  could  grasp  both  han- 
dles together  when  necessary  to  move  them  about  while  in  use. 


98 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


I^'ig.  179. — Process  of  Tinning  Rim  Outside. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


99 


STOCK  POTS. 

Stock  pots  were  made  in  several  sizes,  from  9  to  20  inches  in 
diameter.  The  smaller  sizes  were  from  9  to  12  inches  in  diameter 
and  the  larger  from  13  to  20  inches.  They  were  fitted  with  pipe  and 
inside  grating  when  required,  as  shown  in  Figs.  180  and  181.  The 
work  of  making  stock  pots  is  the  same  as  that  of  large  deep  stew 
pans,  excepting  that  the  cover  is  made  to  fit  on  over  the  outside,  and 
deep  enough  to  be  used  as  a  cutlet  pan,  the  pot  and  cover  being 
mounted  with  cast  copper  handles  as  shown.  Stock  pots  are  a  good  job 
when  made  well,  and  are  usually  given  to  old  and  experienced  hands,  a 
young  man  seldom  getting  a  chance  at  them.  I  was  never  called  on 
to  make  one,  but  have  noticed  that  the  tools  and  appliances  used  in 
their  manufacture  were  not  adapted  to  the  job,  and  it  is  a  little  sur- 
prising that  such  good  work  was  produced  by  their  use.  I  will  de- 
scribe the  making  of  one  of  the  stock  pots  of  medium  size,  to  hold  8 
gallons  standard  or  American  measure,  and  made  from  40  pound 
plate,  and  as  high  as  its  diameter.  The  American  or  United  States 
gallon  contains  231  cubic  inches,  and  the  pot  is  to  hold  8  gallons; 
then   231  X  8  =  1848  inches,  and  converting  these  into  cylinderic 

inches  we  have — =  2352.941,  and  extracting  the  cube  root  we  get 
0-7854 

3    =  13.3,  the  diameter,  and  13.3  x  3.1416  =  41.7832,  the  cir- 

1/2352.941 

cumference,  or  length  of  the  pattern,  and  13.3,  the  depth.  Add  to  this 
%  inch  for  lag  and  we  have  13.3  +  .75  =  14.05,  or  a  piece  of  cop- 
per 3  feet  6  inches  by  14  inches  for  the  pattern.  Cut  this  out,  cramp 
and  thin;  then  braze  the  joint,  trim,  knock  down  and  anneal;  then 
put  in  the  bottom  and  braze  the  seam. 

When  a  boy  I  saw  my  father  working  on  these  pots  occasionally 
and  dragging  them  about  on  the  forge  with  a  pair  of  tongs,  and  have 
often  wondered  since  how  it  was  that  the  old  braziers  never  adopted 
the  plan  or  seemed  to  think  of  putting  their  heavy  work  in  a  sling; 
for  after  working  some  years  among  railway  and  marine  work  I  re- 
turned to  some  of  the  old  shops  to  work  again  and  found  that  there 
had  been  but  little  progress  made.    The  same  old  methods  were  still 


lOO 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  i8i. — Inside  Grating 
for  Stock  Pot. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING.  lOI 

in  use,  and  to  introduce  any  new  ones  was  almost  certain  to  bring  one 
into  contempt,  particularly  if  there  was  any  large  number  of  men 
employed. 

But  to  proceed.  True  the  bottom  on  a  square  shank,  using  a  suit- 
able head  and  carefully  keeping  the  turn  of  the  lag  round  and  as  large 
as  the  head  will  permit ;  when  this  is  completed,  raise  up  the  cover. 
This  cover  is  raised  from  a  disk,  the  size  of  which  may  be  obtained  as 
follows  :  Let  the  cover  for  this  size  be  2  inches  deep,  and  its  diameter 
13^  inches,  so  that  it  will  fit  easy;  then  13.375  x  3.1416  x  2  =  84.0578, 
converting  this  into  circular  inches  we  have  84.0578  7854  =  107. 
Now  square  the  diameter  of  cover,  or  13.375,  and  adding  this  last  re- 
sult we  have  (13.375)^  -I-  107  =  285.890625,  and  extracting  the  square  root 

of  this  we  get  — n — ? —  =  16.9  or  17.  Raise  up  the  cover  to  fit  the 
^      V285. 890625         ^       '  ^ 

pot,  tin  them  both,  planish  and  smooth  ;  then  put  on  the  handles, 
those  on  the  cover  first,  then  on  the  pot,  placing  them  in  such  a  posi- 
tion that  they  will  pass  each  other  when  being  turned  around  on  the 
pot. 


I02 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


FISH   AND   TURBOT  KETTLES. 

Fish  and  turbot  kettles  were  made  shallow  and  similar  to  stew 
pans.  The  work  being-  of  the  same  nature,  a  general  description  of 
them  will  avoid  unnecessary  repetition.  There  seems  to  have  been 
one  size  for  turbot  kettles.  They  were  made  of  light  copper  and  of  a 
suitable  shape  for  the  fish  they  were  named  after,  they  were  about 
5 J  inches  high  and  wired  at  the  brim ;  the  handles  were 
placed  at  the  two  furthest  corners  ;  the  cover  was  pitched  about  ^ 
inch,  similarly  to  a  stew  pan  cover,  as  shown  in  Fig.  182.  The  inside 
was  supplied  with  a  perforated  fish  plate,  Fig.  183,  having  two  lugs  or 
handles  with  which  to  lift  it  out ;  the  plate  was  tinned  on  both  sides, 
planished  bright,  and  then  wired  around  the  edge.  The  fish  kettle, 
Fig.  184,  was  made  oblong,  with  circular  ends  and  straight  sides,  and 
about  the  same  depth  as  the  turbot  kettle,  and  supplied  with  a  fish 
plate,  Fig.  185.  Any  workman  who  is  skillful  enough  to  make  a  good 
sauce  pan  may  be  trusted  with  the  work  of  making  either  of  these 
kettles  without  fear  of  failure. 


\ 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


BRAISING  PANS. 

The  body  of  a  braising  pan,  Fig.  i86,  is  similar  to  a  fish  kettle 
except  in  shape,  which  is  nearly  a.true  ellipse;  the  pan,  which  is  about 
6  inches  deep,  is  made  strong  and  without  wire.  The  cover  is  a  diffi- 
cult piece  of  work  and  requires  more  skill,  as  will  be  seen  by  referring 
to  Fig.  187.  Let  us  make  a  cover,  and  let  the  kettle  measure  15  inches 

long  and  11%  wide;  then  the  circumference  is  ^^'^      ^—  x  3.1416  = 

2 

41.626.  Now,  the  outside  case  or  pan  of  this  cover  at  a,  Fig.  187,  is 
about  3  inches  deep,  and  the  wire,  No.  6,  would  require  another  14  inch 
to  cover  it.  The  rim  ^  which  covers  the  kettle  is  i  inch  deep;  add 
a  quarter  for  seat  and  an  eighth  at  c  to  turn  on  the  inside  to  keep  the 
cover  proper  in,  the  cover  proper  forming  the  bottom  of  the  real 
braising  pan.  We  then  have  for  the  width  of  the  outer  rim  K  +  3 
+  }i  +  I  +  }i  =  4^.  The  strip,  then,  to  form  the  upper  pan  of  this 
cover  would  be  41^  inches  long  and  4}i  wide.  Cut  it  out,  bend 
round  and  braze  the  joint;  trim  the  seam,  knock  it  down  and  anneal; 
take  in  a  course  on  the  head  secured  in  a  square  shank,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  188,  until  the  size  at  x  z,  Fig.  187,  is  a  good  %  inch  smaller  all 
round  than  the  cover  M;  now  turn  it  up  and  work  down  the  seat  ^with 
a  mallet  on  an  anvil,  Fig.  189,  and  bring  up  the  narrow  rim  to  fit  the 
rim  of  the  cover  M,  Fig.  187.  Next  raze  out  the  upper  part  or  flare 
evenly  all  around  until  it  measures  16K  inches  the  long  way,  and 
turn  the  edge  for  the  wire;  now  make  the  cover  M  and  tin  it  inside 
and  scour  clean  and  fit  the  cover  to  the  rim,  planish  and  smooth  both; 
then  put  in  the  wire,  set  the  cover  in  the  seat  tight;  then  turn  the  edge 
of  the  outside  rim  over  it,  as  shown  at  c,  which  finishes  the  cover  or 
real  braising  pan.    Finally  put  on  the  handles  and  clean. 


io6 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  189. —  Working  Down  the  Cover  Seat. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


TEA  BOILERS. 

Tea  boilers,  as  shown  in  Fig.  190,  were  made  40  years  ago,  to  fur- 
nish a  reservoir  of  warm  water,  as  well  as  to  provide  for  boiling  a 
larger  quantity  than  the  common  sized  tea  kettle  would  hold.  They 
generally  stood  on  the  hob  of  the  fire  place,  and  as  close  to  the  fire  as 
was  convenient,  this  gave  place  to  the  hob  boiler,  when  the  kitchen 
range  was  introduced,  which  cut  off  much  of  the  brazier's  work  ;  but 
they  are  still  made  and  used  occasionally  in  the  rural  districts  of 
England.  The  swivel  in  the  bail  served  to  hang  it  by,  where  there 
was  a  bar  in  the  chimney  on  which  to  hang  the  pot  hook  and  rack,. 
Fig.  191,  the  loop  being  made  to  hang  on  the  teeth  of  the  saw  shaped 
plate,  by  which  to  raise  and  lower  the  hook  on  which  the  boiler  hung 
by  the  swivel  in  its  bail.  Tea  boilers  were  made  from  about  the 
same  weight  of  copper  as  the  larger  tea  kettles,  and  to  hold  from  2  to 
8  gallons,  advancing  in  capacity  Yo,  gallon  with  each  size,  making 
nine  sizes  in  all.  We  will  make  one  to  hold  4  gallons.  Tea  boilers 
were  made  of  a  cylindric  form,  as  shown  in  Fig.  190,  the  same  depth 
as  their  diameter,  hence  a  boiler  12  inches  in  diameter  would  be  12 
inches  deep.  To  find  the  .size  of  the  pattern  or  sheet  to  make  a  4-gallon 
boiler  we  may  proceed  as  follows  :  Four  gallons  (English  measure) 
contains  277.274  ^  4  =  1108.896  cubic  inches,  and  converting  these 
into  cylindric  inches  we  have  1108.896  -f-  0.7854  =  141 1. 891,  and  extract- 
ing the  cube  root  of  this  we  get  ^1411.891  =  11.22,  or  about  11^ 
inches.  Then  11.25  x  3.1416  =  35.343,  or  353^  inches  for  the  circum- 
ference. As  the  depth  is  ii^  inches,  add  to  this  ^  inch  for  the  lag, 
and  inch  for  edge  to  seam  on  the  top  ;  then  the  pattern  will  be 
353/^  inches  long  by  12  inches  wide,  and  made  from  12-pound  plate. 
Cut  out  the  pattern,  cramp,  thin,  form  round,  and  tie  with  wire  to 
hold  while  making  the  seam.  Fig.  192,  after  which  anneal  and  put  in 
the  bottom  as  previously  directed.  True  to  size,  and  run  over  the 
body  with  a  hammer  to  stiffen  it,  and  turn  the  edge  for 
the  top.  The  breast,  cover  and  pipe  are  next  in  order.  The 
breast  has  a  rise  or  pitch  of  one-third,  and  the  rim  for  the 
cover,  from  %  to  1%  inches  deep,  finished,  according  to  size — that  is. 


Fig.  igi. —Fot  Hook 
and  Rack. 


I  lO 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


after  being  wired.  Now,  the  breast  or  top  may  be  made  in  several 
ways — namely,  first,  hollow  it  up  and  pitch  the  ring,  as  in  Fig.  193, 
which  is  done  in  this  way:  After  the  ring  is  made  and  wired,  take  a 
creasing  hammer  and  then  sink  the  bead  in  a  creasing  stake,  as  shown 
in  Fig.  194,  and  after  putting  the  collar  through  the  hole,  as  in  Fig. 
193,  turn  the  edge  back,  and  close  the  bead  and  edge  down  close  to  the 
top  at  one  and  the  same  time.  Second,  the  top  may  be  cut  out  flaring 
or  conical,  as  shown  in  B,  Fi^.  195,  and  the  ring  partly  formed  before 
the  seam  is  made.  The  cone  is  shown  by  A  B  C,  and  the  pattern  and 
ring  by  x  y  z,  in  n  ;  the  distance  around  the  pattern  x  y  z  being  six 
times  the  radius  A  D  of  the  finished  cone  ABC.  Cut  out  the  pattern, 
cramp,  thin,  and  then  work  out  the  collar  or  ring  on  an  anvil  or  table 
of  the  side  stake  ;  then  braze  the  seam,  finish  the  ring  and  wire. 
Third,  cut  out  a  disk  so  that  its  surface  is  equal  to  the  breast  and 
ring  before  wiring ;  wrinkle  it,  as  in  Fig.  196,  and  form  the 
ring  O  P,  making  the  opening  about  5  inches  in  diameter 
and  the  required  depth,  and  then  work  out  the  wrinkles  ;  this  can  be 
done  in  one  course,  if  necessary,  and  in  as  little  time  as  either  of  the 
preceding  methods,  and  is  a  much  nicer  job  when  finished  ;  now  tin, 
planish,  and  wire.  The  cover  is  made  in  the  same  manner  as  are 
those  for  saucepans,  and  which  has  been  previously  explained.  The 
pipe  for  this  size  should  be  about  7  inches  long,  1%  inches  in  diam- 
eter at  the  large  end  and  to  fit  the  faucet  at  the  other.'  Cut  out  the 
pattern  and  make  a  cramp  at  each  end,  Fig.  197,  and  lay  the  edge 
close,  when  turned  ready  for  brazing,  then  braze.  Tin  the  inside  of 
boiler,  pipe  and  cover,  then  pitch  the  pipe  for  collar,  similar  to  a  tea 
kettle  spout,  and  work  out  the  collar  in  the  side  of  the  boiler  about  an 
inch  from  the  bottom,  to  fit  the  pipe,  as  in  Fig.  198  ;  then  brown  the 
boiler,  planish  and  smooth  it  ;  next  put  in  the  pipe  and  double  seam 
on  the  top  ;  put  on  the  ears,  bail  and  finally  clean. 


ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Ill 


Fig.  197. — Pattern  for  Pipe. 


112 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING, 


WARMING  PANS. 

Copper  warming  pans  were  once  quite  largely  in  demand,  and^ 
kept  men  bus)''  at  work  for  a  considerable  time  during  the  year,  as 
almost  every  household,  rich  or  poor,  possessed  a  warming  pan,  and  it 
is  presumed  it  would  be  a  difficult  task  to-day  to  find  a  house  in  the 
rural  districts  of  England  without  its  warming  pan,  many  of  them 
having  been  handed  down  from  father  to  son  for  generations.  Warm- 
ing pans  are  made  or  raised  up  and  formed  from  a  disk  whose 
surface  is  equal  to  the  surface  of  the  pan  and  the  cover  seat,  together 
with  the  covering  of  a  5-16  wire.  They  are  wired  as  in  Fig.  199, 
though  they  have  been  made  so  that  the  cover  fitted  into  a  ^  rim 
turned  up  on  the  pan,  as  in  Fig.  200,  and  left  without  wire,  but  in  such 
a  case  they  must  be  made  stronger,  the  joint  of  the  cover  being  riv- 
eted to  the  socket,  as  shown.  They  were  made  in  five  sizes — namely,. 
10,  10}^,  II,  11 and  12  inch.  Let  us  make  one  to  measure  11  inches, 
and  from  10  pound  plate  (the  plate  or  brazier's  sheet,  by  which  the 
strength  was  designated,  measured  2  feet  wide  by  4  feet  in  length), 
and  let  it  measure  at  the  lag  i^  inches  less  than  at  the  brim,  as  in 
Fig.  201.  Our  first  move  is  to  get  the  size  of  a  disk  equal  in  surface 
to  the  pan  thus  represented  ;  first  the  ring  a,  which  is  to  cover 
the  wire;  then  the  cover  seat  d ;  next  the  sides  of  the  pan  <r, 
and  then  the  bottom  of  the  pan  ^ ;  these  are  all  shown 
separately  in  Fig.  202.  This  is  probably  one  of  the  best 
lessons  in  the  trade  for  a  boy  (or  man  either)  who  desires  to  be  fa- 
miliar with  the  art  of  measuring  and  converting  surfaces  into  forms 
suited  for  the  work  in  hand.  It  will  be  seen  by  referring  to  Fig.  202 
that  there  are  four  different  problems  involved  in  this  calculation, 
— namely,  the  cylindric  ring  a,  the  disk  ring  the  flaring  ring  c,  and 
the  disk  or  bottom  d.  Now  we  want  to  reduce  these  four 
problems  to  one  form  or  denomination — that  is,  to  one 
disk  whose  surface  shall  equal  the  whole  of  them  taken  to- 
gether. First,  the  cylindric  ring  a,  to  cover  the  wire,  13^  inches 
in  diameter  and  an  inch  deep  ;  then  13.5  =3.1416  x  i  =42.4116  square 
inches.  Next  the  disk  ring  ^,  whose  outside  diameter  is  13%  inches 
and  inside  diameter  11  inches  ;  then  13.5^—  11^  =  182.25  —  121  =  61.25 


114 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


disk  inches.  Now  the  opening  of  the  pan  c  at  the  brim  will  equal  ii 
inches  and  at  the  bottom  9)^  inches  and  3  inches  deep  ;  then 
II  4.  9.5  -i-  2  X  3.1416  X  3  =  96.6042  square  inches  ;  and  last,  the  bottom 
which  is  9^4  inches  m  diameter  ;  then  9.5^  =  90.25.  Now  we  must 
reduce  the  surface  of  flaring  ring  <r,  which  is  in  square 
inches,  to  disk  inches  also  ;  and  the  cylinder  a  which  is 
now     represented    m    square    to    disk  inches ;   to    do    this  we 

06  6042  +  42  41 16 

add   them  together  and  divide  by  0.7854  ;   then        ^  ^^^^  

=  177,  and  adding  these  to  the  disk  inches  of  the  bottom 
d  and  ring  b  we  have  177  +  90.25  =  267.25,  and  extracting 
the  square  root  of  this  last  result  we  get  16.3477,  or  nearly  16^ 
inches,  which  will  be  the  size  of  the  disk  for  our  pan.  Cut  it  out, 
smooth  the  edges  and  describe  the  bottom  d,  as  in  Fig.  203,  and  start 
a  course  with  a  mallet  on  a  suitable  long  head  in  a  square  shank, 
then  take  a  razing  hammer  and  raze  down  the  wrinkles,  working 
first  on  one  side  of  the  wrinkle  and  then  on  the  other,  then  on  the 
front  of  it,  and  continue  until  all  the  wrinkles  are  worked  out  and  the 
rim  has  the  measure  of  13)^  inches,  as  in  Fig.  205,  annealing  at  the 
conclusion  of  each  course.  Now  work  it  up  until  the  pan  proper  is  3 
inches  deep,  and  measures  11  inches  across  the  brim,  as  in  Fig.  206. 
Then  take  it  on  an  anvil,  or  the  table  of  a  side  stake,  and  with 
a  mallet  raze  down  the  cover  seat  or  flange  B,  Fig.  201,  leaving  the 
edge  of  the  wire  standing,  while  the  seat  is  brought  down  to  its 
proper  width,  or  inches  wide  all  around,  then  anneal.  Now  true  it 
up  to  size  and  shape,  then  planish  and  put  in  the  wire.  The  cover  and 
socket  are  next  in  order  ;  the  cover  is  pitched  about  ^  inch  deep  and 
wired  on  the  edge,  and  a  few  small  holes  punched  in  it,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  207  ;  then  planished  and  smoothed,  leaving  the  cover  raised  or 
hollowed,  and  the  bottom  a  little  also,  so  that  it  will  slide  smoothly 
between  the  bed  clothing.  The  cover  joint.  Fig.  208,  may  be  hung  on 
the  wire  of  the  pan,  as  in  Fig.  199,  or  separate  and  riveted  on  the 
socket,  as  shown  in  Fig.  200.  Now  hang  on  the  cover  and  rivet  on  the 
socket,  Fig.  209,  and  put  in  the  handle,  which  is  usually  about  11^ 
inches  in  diameter  and  5  feet  long,  turned  from  some  nice  looking 
wood  and  oiled ;  then  clean  with  tripoli  and  oil,  and  polish  with  the 
dry  powder. 


Tl6 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


117 


PRESERVING  PANS. 

Preserving  pans,  Fig.  210,  were  made  in  sizes  ranging  from  about 
9  to  18  inches.  These  pans,  like  warming  pans,  have  been  kept  and 
cherished  as  heirlooms,  passing  from  one  generation  to  another,  and 
whea  made  strong  are  very  durable — with  careful  usage  they  may  be 
in  good  condition  at  the  end  of  a  century.  Preserving  pans  are 
raised  up  from  a  disk  similar  to  warming  pans,  and  usually  wired 
with  a  heavy  wire;  the  pan  should  be  strong,  too;  therefore  let  our 
pan  be  made  of  20-pound  plate  and  15  inches  at  the  brim,  14  at  bot- 
tom and  4^  inches  deep,  including  the  wiring  edge;  then  a  disk 
whose  surface  is  equal  to  the  surface  of  the  pan  is  found  thus  : 

^       X  3.1416  X  4.5  =  204.9894.  Converting  this  into  disk  inches  we 

have  ~^^|~^=  261,  and  adding  this  to  the  square  of  the  bottom  we 

have  (14)^  -f  261  =  457,  and  extracting  the  square  root  of  this  last 
result  we  get  ^457^  =  21.377,  or  2i|/8  inches  nearly,  for  the  disk  to 
make  our  pan  of.  Preserving  pans  are  made  in  the  same  way  as 
warming  pans,  described  in  the  previous  chapter.  The  first  step  is 
to  mark  the  side  of  bottom  on  the  disk  and  the  second  to  form  the 
side  wrinkles  for  razing.  When  razed  up  to  the  proper  hight  turn 
the  edge  for  wire,  as  in  Fig.  211,  and  then  planish  and  smooth,  being 
careful  to  have  the  bottom  level;  the  sides  usually  beige  a  little  from 
the  bottom  up.  Finally,  put  in  the  wire  and  clean  up  with  tripoli 
and  oil  and  then  put  on  the  handles. 


J^z'g.  211. — Fan  Turned  for  Wire. 


Fig.  210.  —  Copper  Freserving  Fan. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMH  IIING. 


DRIPPING  PAN  AND  LADLE. 

Dripping  pans,  represented  in  Fig.  212,  which  we  will  now  con- 
sider, are  utensils  probably  as  old  as  any  in  the  trade,  and  which  aie 
in  almost  daily  use  in  all  the  old  manor  houses  and  baronial  halls  of 
England.  Their  name  is  suggested  by  the  use  to  which  they  are 
put — namely,  to  catch  the  drip  from  large  joints  of  meat  while  they 
are  roasted  before  the  kitchen  fire,  the  spit  upon  which  the  joint 
revolves  being  turned  by  a  chain  from  a  smokejack.  These  pans  are 
considered  a  good  job,  and,  like  stock  pots,  are  usually  made  by  old 
and  experienced  hands,  or  men  who  have  been  some  time  in  the 
employ  and  have  gained  the  confidence  of  the  employer,  and  are  of 
known  and  tried  ability ;  apprentices  rarely  have  an  opportunity  to 
try  their  skill  on  these.  Dripping  pans  have  been  constructed  m 
several  ways  ;  first,  with  the  well  in  the  center  of  the  pan,  or  in  the 
middle  of  one  end,  as  shown  ;  sometimes  with  legs  fastened  to  the 
pan  ;  at  other  tim.es  without  legs,  but  made  to  fit  in  a  frame  with  legs. 
They  are  usually  made  in  any  case  as  large  as  the  sheet  will  permit, 
a  sheet  being  2  feet  wide  and  4  feet  long,  and  the  sides  of  the  pan  be- 
ing turned  up  some  ^'A  inches  and  wired  with  a  1%  rod.  The  corners 
may  be  made  square  and  brazed  in  the  corner,  or  cut  to  form  a  round 
corner  and  brazed,  or  they  may  be  wrinkled,  and  razed  up  solid,  as  may 
seem  most  advisable,  or  as  the  taste  of  the  employer  or  the  purchaser 
may  require.  We  will  make  one  to  be  3  inches  deep  when  finished, 
having  the  corners  round  and  brazed,  as  shown  m  Fig.  212.  The  pan  is 
shown  bottom  upward  in  Fig.  213.  Let  it  be  made  of  a  common  sized 
sheet  and  of  20-pound  plate,  and  wired  with  a  I'od,  the  corners  to 
be  part  of  an  8-inch  circle  at  the  top  and  flaring  at  an  angle  of  120^ 
at  the  lag.  Now,  this  would  make  the  corners  what  the  old  braziers 
called  funnel  fashion  " — that  is,  if  all  the  corners  were  joined  to- 
gether in  one  entire  circle  they  would  be  in  the  shape  of  a  funnel,  of 
60°  at  the  apex  (see  Fig.  218).  Now,  then,  square  the  sheet  as  in  Fig. 
216,  and  mark  off  around  the  edge  the  depth  of  the  pan  (including  the 
edge  for  the  wire),  3%  inches,  drawing:  the  inner  lines  parallel  to  sides 
and  ends  of  sheet.  Then  draw  the  line  AC,  and  with  G  C,  2  A  inches,  as 
radius,  describe  the  arc  G  M,  which  is  the  size  of  the  circle  of  the  corner 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


119 


120 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


121 


at  the  lag.  Now  look  at  the  corner  marked  B.  Draw  the  line 
Y  C,  extending  it  to  Z,  also  X  C  to  W,  making  the  distance  in  each  8 
inches,  and  describe  the  arcs  X  V  and  Y  U.  (Every  boy  knows  that  a 
half  circle  turned  round  and  the  ends  joined  will  make  a  funnel.) 
Then  the  circle  in  Fig.  217,  which  is  intended  to  represent  the  four 
corners  of  the  pan  brought  together,  will  be  8  inches  in  diameter, 
and  to  make  a  funnel  this  size  it  is  necessary  to  have  the  half  of  a 
circle  with  a  radius  of  8  inches,  or  16  inches  in  diameter.  Let  the 
circle.  Fig.  217,  be  8  inches  in  diameter;  then  N  B  D  will  be  the  half 
circle  with  a  radius  of  8  inches.  Divide  the  circumference  into  eight 
equal  parts,  as  D  O,  and  make  the  distance  X  V  and  Y  U  in  the  cor- 
ner B,  Fig.  216,  equal  to  O  D,  and  draw  the  lines  V  W  and  U  Z  and 
describe  the  arcs  X  V  and  Y  U  and  P  S  and  S  I.  Then  cut  out  the 
pieces  V  S  U  and  P  S  I,  and  the  pattern  for  one  corner  is  complete. 
Repeat  the  process  at  each  corner.  Cramp  and  thin;  bend  up  the 
sides;  bring  them  together  and  braze  the  seams;  now  trim  and  finish 
the  corners  and  true  up  to  size  and  shape,  making  the  middle  of  the 
pan  sag  from  i  to  2  inches,  so  the  drip  will  flow  to  the  well.  If  the 
well  be  at  the  end  then  the  pan  may  be  made  enough  deeper  at  one 
end,  or  the  legs  enough  shorter,  so  the  drip  will  drain  to  the  well  at 
the  end.  Next  turn  the  wiring  edge,  tin,  planish  and  wire.  The 
well,  which  is  next  in  order,  is  made  about  9  inches  in  diameter  and 
formed  like  a  basin,  or  half  sphere  nearly,  as  shown  in  Fig.  214,  with 
flange  ^  inch  wide  to  rivet  to  the  bottom  of  pan.  The  strainer 
ring  and  cover  are  made  to  fit  tight  inside  the  well.  The  ring 
is  about  2  inches  deep  and  goes  into  the  well  about  Yz  inch; 
there  are  also  slits,  as  shown,  made  at  intervals  of  about  2  inches  all 
around,  so  that  no  cinders  may  find  their  way  into  the  well.  When 
the  well  is  made  and  tinned  inside,  and  the  ring  and  cover  are  tinned 
all  over  and  ready,  put  in  the  well  and  scrub  the  rivets  so  the  surface 
is  smooth;  now  put  the  ring  into  the  well  tight  and  soft  solder  to  its 
place.  The  ladle,  as  shown  in  the  pan,  Fig.  215,  always  accompanies 
the  pan;  it  is  made  about  4  inches  in  diameter,  and  with  the  bottom 
like  a  shallow  cup,  the  top  being  full  of  small  holes  to  answer  for  a 
strainer.  The  ladles  are  tinned  inside  and  out.  The  handle  is  made 
of  iron  and  from  20  inches  to  2  feet  long,  with  a  hook  at  the  end 
by  which  to  hang  it. 


122 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


COAL  SCOOPS  AND  COAL  HODS. 

Bright  copper  coal  scoops  have  been  considered  an  adornment  for 
the  parlor,  as  well  as  a  necessary  accompanying  adjunct  for  the  fire- 
side, as  long  probably  as  any  article  which  has  been  wrought  out  from 
this  sheet  metal.  There  has  been  called  out  in  their  production  as 
much  art  and  painstaking  care,  perhaps  more,  as  in  any  other  thing 
upon  which  the  brazier  has  been  called  to  exercise  his  skill.  They 
have  also  unconsciously  furnished  a  stepping  stone  or  preparatory 
course  for  the  perceptive  and  studious  beginner  at  the  trade.  In  the 
manufacture  of  the  various  kinds  of  coal  scoops  which  have  been  in 
use  up  to  the  present  time,  scope  is  given  for  the  execution  of  some 
of  the  prettiest  work  of  which  the  workman,  under  ordinary  every  day 
necessities,  is  called  on  to  perform,  and,  furthermore,  they  must  give 
much  satisfaction  to  the  zealous  worker  for  the  labor  bestowed. 
These  goods  may  be  made  by  a  skillful  workman  in  any  shape  to  suit 
the  taste  and  please  the  fancy  of  the  most  fastidious.  They  furnish 
sometimes  tor  boys,  or  young  men  who  are  approaching  the  end  of  an 
apprenticeship,  an  opportunity  of  becoming  proficient  in  the  use  of 
a  hammer.  There  is,  however,  little  profit  in  coal  scoops  ;  that  is,  in 
those  ordinarily  in  use,  for  they  were  among  the  goods  which  were 
paid  the  least  for,  considering  the  labor  necessary  to  produce  them  in 
such  a  maner  as  the  purchaser  desired.  On  this  account  men  sought 
the  assistance  of  a  good  careful  boy  when  the  opportunity  offered, 
and  in  this  labor  a  pathway  was  opened  for  the  boy  which  was  closed 
in  other  instances  where  better  wages  were  given  for  the  work. 

Coal  scoops  were  made  in  a  number  of  fashions,  among  which, 
besides  the  common  hod.  Fig.  21Q,  were  the  round  mouthed  scoop,  in 
Fig.  220;  the  square  mouthed  or  fiat  bottom.  Fig.  221;  the  Tudor,  Fig. 
222  ;  the  Florence,  Fig.  223  ;  the  Nautilus,  Fig.  224  ;  the  Royal,  Fig. 
225  ;  the  Boat,  Fig.  226  ;  and  the  Helmet,  Fig.  227.  In  Fig.  228  is 
shown  a  round  bottomed  scoopet  and  in  Fig.  229  a  flat  bottomed  scoopet. 
Some  of  these  names  are  variable,  according  to  the  factories  in  which 
they  are  made,  while  others  have  had  the  same  name  from  the  time 
they  were  first  designed.  The  hod  has  always  been  a  hod,  and  the 
common  round  mouth  shape,  as  in  Fig.  219,  has  never  received  any 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


125 


220. — Round  Mouthed  Coal  Scoot. 


124 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Other  cognomen  ;  the  same  with  the  helmet  scoop,  Fig.  227,  which  has 
always  been  wrought.  The  same  and  will  probably  continue  to  be, 
while  the  metal  is  used  for  this  purpose. 

We  will  now  endeavor  to  describe  the  manufacture  of  several 
scoops  in  which  we  participated  some  forty  years  since,  and  while 
there  have  been  deviations  made  during  this  long  time,  judging  from 
late  observations,  it  would  seem  that  nothing  of  any  marked  importance 
has  been  introduced  to  inconvenience  one  from  resuming  work  as  of 
yore.  The  hod  seen  in  Fig  219  is  of  a  cylindric  form,  the  mouth  be- 
ing shaped  in  front  similar  to  one-half  an  elbow  as  far  as  the  ears, 
while  the  other  half  curves  or  returns  up  a  little  at  the  back,  perhaps 
1%  inches.  Let  us  cut  out  and  then  work  two  of  these  hods 
bright,  and  let  them  measure  12  inches  in  diameter,  and  from  the  front 
of  the  lip  to  the  bottom,  18  inches,  and  13^  inches  at  the  back,  or  let 
A  B  G  L  K,  m  Fig.  230,  represent  the  outline  of  the  proposed  hod,  of 
which  C  D  F  H  is  the  plan.  To  describe  the  shape  of  the  top  of 
hod,  from  A  to  B  would  be  about  56^.  From  the  point  E,  which  is 
midway  between  M  and  H,  on  the  line  A  H,  with  E  B  as  radius,  de- 
scribe the  arc  B  G,  which  completes  the  shape  of  top.  To  outline  the 
pattern,  divide  the  semicircle  CDF  into  any  convenient  number  of 
equal  parts,  in  this  case  six.  Lay  off  the  distance  O  P,  equal  to  the 
circumference  of  the  circle  C  D  F  H,  which  divide  into  twice  the  num- 
ber of  parts,  as  the  semicircle  C  D  F,and  erect  the  parallel  lines  i,  2,  3,  &c. 
Place  the  blade  of  the  J-square  at  right  angles  to  A  K,  or,  which  is 
the  same,  parallel  to  the  stretchout  line  O  P,  and  bringing  it  succes- 
sively against  the  points  in  A  B  G,  cut  the  corresponding  measuring 
lines,  as  shown.  Then  trace  the  curved  line  S  I  J  through  the  points 
of  intersection,  which  will  give  the  form  of  the  top  or  mouth  of  the 
hod.  Now  cut  out  and  scour  bright  with  sand,  vitrol  and  water; 
rinse  in  clean  water  and  dry  in  sawdust,  and  then  remove  the  saw- 
dust; clean  and  place  two  together  and  dog  them  so  that  they  will  be 
held  fast;  then  with  a  planishing  hammer  weighing  about  4  pounds, 
proceed  to  a  bottom  stake  or  an  anvil;  planish  the  surface  in  regular 
blows,  lengthwise  or  crosswise  as  is  most  practical,  so  long  as  the 
surface  is  treated  regularly  all  over  and  not  in  a  promiscuous  way. 
When  the  surfaces  have  been  covered  entirely,  take  them  apart  and 
scour  the  hammered  side  with  sweet  oil  and  tripoli,  and  then  polish 
with  the  dry  powder,  being  careful  that  all  dust  and  oil  are  removed. 
When  this  has  been  done  go  carefully  over  each  one  singly  again 


126 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


127 


with  a  smoothing-  hammer.  When  this  course  is  completed,  wire, 
form  on  a  former,  grove  together,  and  then  bottom.  The  back 
handle  is  of  cast  copper,  filed  and  burnished;  the  cross  handle  or 
bail  is  of  ^-inch  pipe,  filled  and  bent,  then  filed  and  burnished.  The 
ears  may  be  cast  or  wrought,  and  should  be  made  so  the  bail  will  lay 
on  the  wire  at  the  sides,  but  leave  room  for  the  fingers  in  the  loop,  so 
that  the  handle  may  be  grasped  with  ease.  When  the  hod  and  both 
handles  are  ready  give  the  hod  its  final  clean  up,  and  rivet  on  the 
handles  the  last  thing. 


128 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


MAKING   COAL  SCOOPS. 

The  plain  round-mouthed  coal  scoop,  as  shown  in  Fig.  220,  is  made 
in  four  pieces,  the  bottom  H  and  bridge  B  being  shown  separately  in 
Fig.  23 T.  The  sheet  and  wire  from  which  the  bridge  is  made  are 
shown  in  Fig.  232,  while  the  foot  is  shown  in  Fig.  233.  Let  us  work 
up  two  of  these  plain  scoops,  as  shown  in  Fig.  220,  and  let  them  meas 
ure  15  inches  when  completed — that  is,  15  inches  from  the  back  inside 
to  the  front  of  the  mouth.  Our  rule  for  this  particular  kind  of  scoop 
was  that  the  width  should  be  four-fifths  of  its  length  ;  hence  the  width 
of  our  scoop  across  the  bridge  B  or  back  (see  Fig.  235)  would  be  12 
inches  from  X  to  Z.  The  bridge  itself  was  one-third  the  length  of  the 
scoop  in  width  when  finished,  or  5  inches,  and  the  bottom  of  foot  C, 
Fig.  233,  one-half  the  length  of  the  scoop  in  diameter ;  therefore,  the 
foot  C  would  be  7  ^  inches  in  diameter  when  finished. 

We  will  first  describe  the  pattern  for  the  bottom  or  body,  H,  Fig. 
231,  as  shown  in  Fig.  234,  which  from  E  to  F,  including  %  inch  for 
wiring  edge  and  ^  for  back  edge,  is  15 ^  inches,  and  from  C  to  D  is  one- 
half  the  circumference  of  a  12-inch  circle,  with  the  wire  edge  added  ; 

that  is,  C  D  =  0.5  x       ^  3-^4i6  _       ^  18.8496  =  19.3496,  allowing  % 

inch  for  wiring;  then,  with  the  radius  H  C,  equal  to  one-half  of  C  D 
(9.67  inches),  or  9^  approximately,  describe  the  semicircle  C  F  D 
and  extend  the  ends  on  each  side  parallel  to  each  other  to  M  N.  Then 
draw  M  N  so  E  F  will  measure  15^  inches,  which  gives  the  pattern, 
of  which  two  are  to  be  cut.  We  next  require  the  pattern  of  the  back, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  235.  The  semicircle  X  Y  Z  would  be  12  inches  plus 
the  edges  for  seam,  making  12^  inches.  The  radii  of  arcs  X  O  and 
N  Z  is  one-third  of  X  Z,  with  the  edge  for  seam  added,  making  4^ 
inches.  The  radius  of  the  arc  O  N  is  equal  to  X  Z,  with  the  edge 
added,  or  12^  inches.  With  S  as  center,  describe  the  semicircle  X  Y  Z 
and  divide  the  diameter  X  Z  into  three  parts,  as  X  P,  P  R,  R  Z,  and, 
with  P  X  as  radius,  describe  the  arc  X  O,  and,  with  R  Z  as  radius,  de- 
scribe the  arc  N  Z.  Then,  with  P  M  equal  to  8  inches,  erect 
the  triangle  P  M  R  on  P  R,  and,  with  O  M  as  radius,  de- 
scribe the  arc  O  N,  and  we  have  the  pattern  for  the  back. 


130  ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 

The  length  of  the  bridge  (see  Figs.  231  and  232)  is  found  as  fol- 
lows :  It  will  be  seen  that  the  top  part  of  the  back  is  half  an  ellipse 
whose  transverse  axis  is  12  and  conjugate  9  inches  nearly  ;  then 
the  length  of  the  bridge  will  equal  one-half  the  circumference  of  the 

ellipse  9x12  thus  :  =  10.5  and  —  ^—^ —  =  16.4934  ;  to  this 

2  2 

add  a  %-inch  for  groove  and  we  have  the  length  of  the  bridge,  which 

is  17  inches  nearly.    Let  it  be  17  inches  long  and  5^  wide,  including 

edge  for  wire  and  back,  and  we  have  the  desired  pattern. 

The  foot  is  a  part  of  a  cone  of  funnel  fashion  and  cut  obliquely 
through  the  sides,  as  shown  in  Fig.  220.  The  scoop  is  set  on  the  foot 
in  this  way  to  tilt  it  up,  so  that  any  drip  from  wet  coal  may  drain  to- 
ward the  back  rather  than  run  out  on  the  floor.  In  the  foot  repre- 
sented at  C,  in  Fig.  233,  the  riveting  flange  is  turned  inside,  as  shown, 
but  in  the  foot  D  (for  an  iron  scoop)  the  riveting  flange  is  laid  off  on 
the  outside,  there  being  no  flange  in  front  or  behind,  and  only  enough 
flange  laid  off  to  get  three  rivets  in  each  of  the  flaps. 

In  order  to  obtain  the  pattern  for  the  foot  let  E  F  G  H,  in 
Fig.  236,  represent  the  bottom  of  scoop  and  A  B  C  D  represent  the 
funnel  or  foot  adjoining  the  same.  The  part  of  bottom  of  scoop 
which  joins  the  funnel,  as  X'  L  Z'  is  a  semicircle  struck  from  the 
center  S'.  Produce  A  B  and  D  C  until  they  meet  in  the  point  Y, 
thus  establishing  the  apex  of  the  cone.  Draw  the  semicircle 
R  S  T,  representing  one  half  of  the  profile  of  the  cone  at  the 
larger  end  or  base.  Divide  R  S  T  into  any  number  of  equal  parts, 
as  indicated  by  the  small  figure  i,  2,  3,  4,  &c.  From  the  points  thus 
established  carry  lines  at  right  angles  to  A  D,  cutting  that  line  as 
indicated.  From  the  points  thus  established  in  A  D  carry  lines 
toward  the  apex  Y,  as  indicated  by  the  dotted  lines  in  the  engrav- 
ing. The  next  step  is  to  produce  the  opening  of  the  funnel,  as  it 
would  appear  when  viewed  from  a  point  opposite  the  end,  or  as  in- 
dicated by  M  N  in  the  eng^raving.  Lay  off  the  straight  line  M  N 
parallel  to  the  axis  of  the  bottom,  making  it  in  length  equal  to  A  D 
of  the  elevation.  Transfer  to  it  the  several  points  produced  in 
A  D  by  lines  dropped  from  the  points  in  the  half  profile  R  S  T, 
and  through  the  points  thus  established  draw  lines  at  right  angles 
to  M  N,  as  indicated.  Then,  with  the  blade  of  the  J-square  placed 
parallel  with  M  N  and  brought  successively  against  the  points 
in  the  line  A  D,  cut  corresponding  lines  drawn  through  M  N.  By 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


JFig.  236. — Elevation,  Plan  ana  Development  of  Pattern  for  Foot  of  Coal  Scoop. 


132 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


this  means  half  of  the  profile  will  be  obtained,  and  from  it 
the  other  can  be  duplicated,  giving  the  required  shape.  In 
the  same  manner  bring  the  blade  of  the  J-square  against 
the  apex  Y  in  the  elevation  and  cut  the  center  line  I  7, 
thus  obtaining  the  point  X.  Then,  with  a  straight  edge  cutting  X  and 
brought  successively  against  the  different  points  in  the  profile  just 
established,  draw  lines  cutting  the  plan  of  the  pipe,  as  shown  by  the 
small  figures  to  the  left  of  L.  Then,  with  the  blade  of  the  J-square 
parallel  with  the  axis  of  the  bottom,  and  brought  successively  against 
the  points  thus  established  in  the  plan,  cut  lines  of  corresponding 
number  drawn  from  the  points  in  A  D  to  the  apex  Y,  or  as  indicated 
from  C  to  B.  This  done,  we  are  ready  to  lay  off  the  pattern.  With 
the  blade  of  the  J-square  parallel  to  A  D  draw  lines  from  each  of  the 
points  established  between  C  and  B,  producing  them  until  they  cut 
the  line  A  Y,  as  shown.  From  Y  as  center,  with  Y  A  as  radius,  de- 
scribe an  arc,  as  indicated  by  U  Z,  and  upon  it  step  off  the  stretch- 
out of  the  profile  R  S  T,  as  shown,  marking  the  points,  as  indicated 
by  the  small  figures.  From  these  points  draw  radial  lines  to  Y,, 
as  indicated.  Then,  with  Y  as  center,  and  with  radii  correspond- 
ing to  the  points  established  in  A  Y,  as  already  set  forth, 
describe  arcs,  producing  them  until  they  cut  corresponding 
numbered  lines  drawn  from  the  arc  Y  Z  to  the  point  Y.  Then  a  line 
traced  through  the  intersections  thus  established,  as  indicated  by  V 
W,  will  be  the  pattern  joining  the  cone,  as  shown  in  the  elevation 
from  C  to  B.  U  V  W  X  will  be  one-half  of  the  pattern,  and  the  whole 
pattern  may  be  obtained  by  continuing  the  same  process,  or  by  dupli- 
cating. Allowance  for  joining  to  be  made  at  U  V,  for  wire  on  U  Z  and 
for  the  flange  on  V  W. 

Having  the  four  patterns,  we  are  now  ready  to  proceed.  Dog  all 
the  pieces  together,  two  and  two,  and  planish  them  the  first  course, 
having  previously  cleaned  them  bright  ;  then  take  them  apart,  and 
with  a  clean  flannel  wisp  scour  with  oil  and  tripoli  and  polish  with  the 
dry  powder.  Having  carefully  removed  all  oil  and  dust  with  a  nice 
soft,  clean  rag,  go  over  them  singly  again  to  smooth  and  finish.  We 
are  now  ready  to  form  and  put  the  scoop  together.  First  notch  for 
wire  and  groove  ;  then  break  the  bottom  on  the  former,  Fig.  238, 
by  bending  first  one  way  and  then  the  other,  being  cautious 
not  to  rib  it ;  proceed  slow  and  easy,  carefully  avoiding  sud- 
den   bends.     The   former     should    be    at    least    one-half  the 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


diameter  of  the  scoop.  When  formed,  turn  the  wiring  edge  and  wire, 
letting  the  wire  come  within  2  inches  of  the  notch  on  each  side,  and 
leave  the  edge  open  at  the  end  on  each  side  to  receive  the  bridge 
wire.  Now  fold  the  grooving  edge  and  wire  the  bridge,  turning  the 
edge  on  the  inside  and  sink  the  wire  into  a  creasing  stake,  the 
wire  being  left  out  2  inches  at  each  end  of  the  bridge,  as  in  Fig. 
232,  and  bent  to  hook  hold  of  the  bottom  (see  B,  Fig.  231), 
and  complete  the  wiring  of  the  bottom.  The  wire  of  the 
bridge  should  butt  the  wire  of  the  bottom  in  the  middle 
of  the  ear.  When  this  is  done,  groove  the  bridge  to  the  bottom  and 
finish  the  wiring  up  to  the  turn  of  the  bridge.  Now  double  seam  on 
the  back,  then  make  the  foot,  which  may  be  grooved  together  or  riv- 
eted, the  wiring  edge  being  turned  on  the  inside,  and  the  flange  for 
riveting  to  be  about  ^  inch,  also  turned  on  the  inside.  Now  prepare 
the  back  handles  and  bails,  and  clean  all  up,  putting  on  the  handles 
the  last  thing.  The  loop  for  the  scoopet  should  be  about  2  inches 
wide  and  riveted  to  the  bridge,  in  which  the  scoopet  is  placed  when 
not  in  use. 

The  flat  bottom  scoop.  Fig.  221,  is  made  m  nearly  the  same  pro- 
portions as  the  round  mouth.  Fig.  220,  and  the  work  is  about  the  same 
or  similar  in  the  most  essential  features,  the  difference  being  only  in 
its  form,  shown  in  the  back.  Fig.  239,  which  may  be  made  either  with 
the  sides  of  the  bottom  straight  or  curved  to  suit  the  taste,  as  in  Y  or 
Z,  Fig.  240.  If  the  sides  be  straight,  then  the  mouth  is  generally 
square  or  angular,  as  in  Fig.  221,  but  if  they  are  curved,  then  from 
the  corner  of  the  mouth  to  the  ear  it  would  usually  be  made  curved  ; 
they  may,  however,  be  made  either  way  without  offending  the  eye,  if 


Note. — In  an  old  shop  I  once  saw  and  used  a  simple,  yet  effective,  substitute  for  a 
tilt  hammer,  which  is  shown  in  Fig.  237.  A  large  block  was  made  fast  to  the  floor,  and 
an  anvil  some  8  or  9  inches  square  on  the  face  set  in  it.  There  were  four  upright  tim- 
bers fastened  to  the  floor  and  ceiling.  The  hammer,  which  weighed  from  10  to  14  pounds, 
was  put  on  a  long  elastic  handle,  made  of  ash  and  having  a  sufficient  spring  to  lift  the 
handle  after  the  blow  was  struck.  The  shaft  was  bolted,  as  shown,  to  the  two  upright 
pillars,  and  the  hammer  end  of  the  shaft  raised  and  made  to  work  between  two  others, 
as  close  to  the  hammer  as  convenient.  One  man  or  boy  gave  the  blow  while  the  other 
manipulated  the  work  under  it.  The  block  was  of  such  a  hight  that  a  man  could  com- 
fortably slide  the  sheet  or  work  it  about  on  the  anvil,  which  weighed  some  75  pounds  or 
more.  The  whole  contrivance  was  considered  a  good  tool  then,  and  I  have  done,  and 
seen  others  do,  some  good  work  with  it ;  the  blow  when  struck  covered  a  space  as  large 
as  a  half  dollar.  If  a  hammer  like  this  were  to  be  provided,  the  sheets  could  be  planished 
the  first  course  before  the  work  is  cut  out. 


134 


ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  238. —  Wooden  Former. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


the  work  is  done  well.  We  will  mark  one  out  and  describe  the  varia- 
tions which  may  be  made  m  this  class  of  scoop.  Let  it  be  required 
that  the  scoop  shall  be  17  inches  ;  then,  as  the  back  of  a  15-inch  scoop 
is  12  inches  across  at  the  bridge,  15  :  12  :  :  17:  13.6;  that  is,  13.6,  which 
in  practice  would  usually  be  called  13^.  Now  divide  the  distance  a  b 
across    the  bridge    into   three  parts,   as  in   Fig.    239 ;   that  is, 

=r  4,5.    Then  on  c  d,  with  eg  equal  to  a  d,  erect  the  triangle  c g  d 

and  continue  g  d  and  ^  to  ^  and  f;  then  with  d  b  2iS  radius  describe 
the  arcs  b  f  and  a  e,  and  with  radius  g  e  describe  arc  e  f;  then  draw  b  I 
and  a  h  parallel  to  ^  ^  and  c  g,  and  A  I  parallel  to  a  b, 
making  a  h  equal  X.o  c  k  and  b  I  equal  to  d  k.  Then  h  a  e  b  f  b  I 
forms  the  back.  If  the  side  is  to  be  curved,  then  with  the  radius  a  b 
describe  the  arc  b  /,  as  shown  by  the  dotted  line,  and  the  form  of  the 
back  is  again  complete.  The  bottom.  Fig.  241,  or  body  of  scoop  from  to 
Tis  17  inches  when  finished;  from  7£/ to  x  two-thirds  of  17  or  iifV  inches, 
from  w  to  It  6  inches,  from  u  to  v  10^  inches,  from  the  notch  s  \.o  w 
one-third  of  17,  or  Join  x  P  and  o  n;  then  a/  T  is  the  pattern  for  an  an- 
gular flat  bottom  coal  scoop.  If  the  bottom  be  curved  at  the  side,  then 
from  the  point  q  on  the  line  j'  T,  with  ^  ^?  as  radius,  describe  the  arcs 
shown  by  the  dotted  lines  o p  and  P  and  the  pattern  is  indicated  by 
the  dotted  lines  from  0  top  and  from  P  to  s.  The  bridge  finished  will  be 

13. C  -)-  9.C 

5y\  inches  wide  and  one-half  of  ^  x  3.i4i6,which  is  18.0692,  long 

without  the  grooving  laps  and  edges.  The  foot,  Fig.  242,  may  be 
marked  out  as  in  Fig.  243,  and  will  very  nearly  fit,  but  not  near 
enough.  To  meet  this,  in  the  absence  of  scientific  knowledge,  the 
foot  is  formed  and  placed  in  position  on  the  scoop  and  marked  around 
with  a  compass,  and  then  trimmed  to  fit ;  and  this  means  often  is 
adopted  in  practice  to  save  time,  even  when  the  knowledge  is 
possessed  by  the  workmen.  The  Tudor,  represented  in  Fig.  222, 
and  the  back  of  which  is  shown  in  Fig.  244,  will  now  be  con- 
sidered. By  examination  it  may  be  seen  that  the  measurements  are 
nearly  alike.  If  the  scoop  is  to  have  straight  sides,  then  a  h  I  b  will 
represent  the  bottom  or  body,  and  a  e  f  b  the  bridge,  taking 
the  dotted  lines  on  each  side  as  the  shape.  If  the  scoop  is  to 
have  the  sides  of  the  bottom  or  body  as  shown  by  the  semicircle 
akb,  then  the  bridge  is  again  shown  hy  a  ef  b,  taking  the  solid  line 
area  on  each  side  as  the  shape.    In  these  Tudor  scoops  the  patterns 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


^  J—  o 


J^t^.  241. — Pattern  for  Bottom  of  Scoop. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


for  the  bottom  were  furnished  to  us  ;  the  illustration  will  suggest  the 
shape  of  the  sides  at  the  mouth,  which  is  variable,  according  to  the 
taste  of  the  employer  when  he  superintends  the  design.  I  may  here 
say  that  while  these  different  styles  have  been  frequently  made  and 
were  fashionable  in  their  turn,  I  think,  generally,  those  made  easiest 
and  with  the  fewest  corners  or  angles  were  most  popular,  aad  gener- 
rally  took  the  best  with  the  purchaser.  The  planishing  is  performed 
as  described  in  the  previous  article,  and  the  forming  suggests  itself. 
The  scoopets  were  made  similar  and  to  correspond  with  the  scoop,  as 
shown  ;  the  scoopets  were  usually  made  one-half  the  length  of  the 
scoop  for  this  size,  and  6^  inches  across  the  bridge  ;  that  is,  the 
scoopets  were  about  one-eighth  the  size  of  the  scoop.  They  were 
supplied  with  a  socket  and  wooden  handle,  japanned,  oiled  or 
polished. 

The  Nautilus  is  next  in  rank,  and  is  represented  in  Fig.  224.  In 
this  style  of  scoop  the  bridge  is  formed  in  such  a  manner  that  it  sup- 
plies one-half  the  back,  which  is  razed  down  from  the  end  of  the  bridge, 
as  it  were,  while  the  other  half  of  the  back  is  raised  up  from  the  bot- 
tom or  body.  Now,  these  are  a  good  job,  and  require  altogether 
another  method  tor  their  construction  than  the  preceding  styles. 
The  back  when  complete,  it  will  be  seen,  is  one-half  a  hollow 
sphere,  the  bridge  being  a  little  in  excess  in  the  front, 
to  ornament  or  give  a  finished  aspect  to  the  scoop.  Let 
us  cut  one  out,  required  to  measure  16  inches,  and  pro- 
ceed to  work  it  up.    Proceeding  as  before,  15  :  12  :  :  t6  :  12.8,  or  12% 

inches  we  should  call  it  in  practice  ;  then  '^'^^  ^  3-i4i6  _  20.0277  ; 

that  is,  the  circumference  of  the  bottom  half  of  the  scoop  is  20 
inches.  Let  Fig.  245  represent  the  pattern  for  the  bottom  of 
our  scoop,  to  describe  which  we  proceed  as  follows  :  Draw  a  b,  m.aking 
it  20  inches  from  a  to  b,  and  erect  the  perpendicular  c  d  at  the 
middle  ;  now  lay  off  the  distance  ^  ^  on  perpendicular  equal  to  16 
inches.  Draw  e  b  and  /  a  parallel  to  c  d,  and  f  e  parallel  to  a  b\  then 
dividing  f  e  into  three  equal  spaces,/^,  g  h,  h  e,  and  with  the  radius 
f  g  (that  is,  g  /),  describe  the  arcs  g  m  and  h  n,  from  /  and  k  as 
centers,  and  we  have  the  form  of  the  mouth  indicated  by  7n  g  h  n. 
Now  we  want  the  back,  which  may  be  raised  up  solid,  or  cut  and 
brazed  together  if  time  is  an  object.  If  the  end  is  raised  up  solid, 
it  will  be  seen  in  Fig.  246  that  the  whole  back  finished  forms  a  half 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


of  a  hollow  sphere  approximately,  the  curve  of  the  razed  down 
bridge  being  made  spherical,  while  the  curve  of  the  raised  up  back  is 
elliptical  in  form  when  finally  finished,  u  u  being  the  foci. 
The  pattern,  however,  it  would  seem,  was  cut  to  suit  a  spherical  end, 
the  deviation  being  made  during  the  process  of  raising,  as  the  surface 
is  about  the  same  or  near  enough  for  practice.  Let  the  pattern  then 
be  made  to  suit  a  spherical  back  of  i23^  inches  diameter  across  the 
bridge,  as  above  ;  then  from  a  to  b,  Fig.  245  is  20.0277  i'nches,  and  from 


c  u 

to  c  one-half  of  a  b,  or  10.01385;  then  ^  =  ^  u;  that  is. 


A  0.0.385  Yg,, 

\  97 /_  _  J2.5,  the  radius  sb  (that  is,  s  u).  Describe  the 

arc  a  u  b,  and  the  surface  outlined  by  the  segment  a  u  b  c  will  be  equal 
approximately  to  the  back  required,  but  the  parallelogram  <2  T  R 
containing  the  segment  a  v  b  i^in  excess  of  needs  by  the  corners  v  R 
b  and  vT  a,  and  the  segment  is  lying  the  wrong  way.  Turn  it,  or 
describe  it  as  shown  by  R  <r  T  z^,  and  with  the  radius  v  R  describe  the 
semicircle  R  T,  forming  the  lune  R  ^;  T  ?/,  and  we  have  the  pattern 
'XS  h  g  771  for  the  bottom  or  body  completed.  Now  cut  it  out  and 
wrinkle  up  the  pattern  around  the  lune.  Fig.  247,  forming  at  the  same 
time  the  turn  at  the  mouth  as  shown  in  Fig.  248,  making  the  wrinkles 
small  at  the  sides,  and  enlarging  them  in  proportion  to  the  sur- 
face to  be  operated  on.  Then  take  it  to  a  suitable  head.  Fig.  249,  in  a 
square  shank,  as  in  Fig.  250,  and  proceed  to  work  up  the  back  until 
the  distance  across  the  bridge  is  12%  inches  and  the  back  is  the  curve 
required.  Now  mark  out  the  bridge,  using  Fig.  251,  and  the  dimen- 
sions delineated  hy  a  v  b  u,  in  Fig.  245,  leaving  on  one 
side  enough  in  excess  so  that  it  may  hang  over  in  front  2  inches,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  246.  Extend  Y  u,  Fig.  251,  2  inches  to  x,  and  form  the 
lune  a  X  b  y,  and  the  pattern  of  the  bridge  is  complete,  but  without 
edges  for  wire  or  groove,  which  must  be  allowed  and  left  on.  To  raise 
up  the  bridge,  wrinkle  the  edges  both  sides.  Fig.  252,  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  bottom,  and  sink  the  center  in  a  hollowing  block,  Fig. 
253,  letting  the  wrinkles  f^rm  regularly  round  the  edge  until  the 
proper  curve  is  reached.    Then  take  it  to  the  shank  or  bullet  stake,, 


I40  ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  249. — Head  Used  in  Working  up  Back. 


Fig.  250. —  Working  up  Back  and  Bridge  for  Nautilus  Scoop. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Shown  at  the  right  in  Fig.  250,  and  with  a  razing  hammer  raze  down 
the  wrinkles  one  course,  and  then  wrinkle  again  until  the  desired 
curve  is  obtained.  When  this  is  accomplished  trim  the  edges  on  each 
side  ready  for  the  wire  and  groove,  then  planish  and  smooth  both 
bridge  and  body,  and  wire  both,  leaving  the  wire  out  at  each  end  of 
the  bridge,  and  turn  the  grooving  edge  inside  so  that  it  will  lap  over 
the  bottom.  Now  lock  them  and  groove  them  together,  letting  the 
end  of  the  bridge  wire  butt  the  wire  of  the  body  in  the  middle  of  the 
ear  of  the  bail.  Then  make  the  foot  and  prepare  the  bail  and  back 
handle,  and  clean  all  up,  riveting  the  foot  and  handles  on  the  last 
thing. 

If  the  back  of  the  body  for  a  Nautilus  scoop  is  cut  to  bring  it  near 
the  shape  required,  and  then  brazed  together,  it  may  be  formed,  or 
the  pattern  may  be  cut  as  follows,  see  Fig.  254:  (The  pattern  of  the 
mouth  is  the  same  as  in  the  last  example,  and  has  been  already 
described.)  In  Fig.  255  let  A  E  C  B  represent  the  back  of  the  scoop 
and  A  B  the  radius  of  the  curve.  Draw  A  D  perpendicular  to  A  B, 
and  from  B  lay  off  the  distance  B  C,  one-fourth  of  the  semicircle  G  E 
C  B,  and  draw  B  D  through  C  ;  then  B  D  in  Fig.  255  will  represent 
and  be  equal  to  R,  R,  T  S  and  If  s  in  Fig.  254.  Divide  a  d  in  Fig. 
254  into  four  equal  spaces,  a p,p  c  0  and  0  and  with  p  c  qjs>  radius 
describe  the  semicircle  0 y  p.  Now,  with  the  radius  R  a  (that  is,  D  B 
in  Fig.  255),  describe  the  arc  a  u,  and  with  S  also  equal  to  D  B,  de- 
scribe the  arc  T  b.  Then,  with  s  oin  Fig.  254  (that  is,  D  C  in  Fig.  255), 
describe  the  arcs  0  v  and  /  x,  making  them  equal  to  0  y  and p  y  respect- 
ively :  join  u  x  and  T  and  the  pattern  is  complete  and  ready  for 
work.  First  punch  two  small  holes  at /  and  0  and  thin  the  edges  and 
cramp  them  one  side  ;  then  form  and  bring  the  edges  together  and 
braze  them,  as  shown  in  Fig.  256.  Clean  off  the  joint,  knocic  down  and 
anneal  and  wrinkle  the  edges,as  in  Fig.  256,  and  then  proceed  to  pounce 
the  bottom  into  shape  on  a  bullet  stake,  at  the  same  time  break- 
ing down  the  corner  or  lag  along  the  curved  seam.  While  this  is  being 
done,  the  side  and  bottom  will  bulge  out  sufhciently  to  give  it  the  re- 
quired shape  if  it  receive  the  proper  treatment,  which  treatment, 
however,  can  only  be  learnt  by  practice  or  from  a  tutor  on  the  spot. 
When  the  bottom  is  prepared,  proceed  as  before  to  trim,  planish,  put 
together  and  finish. 

The  Royal  comes  next.  This  scoop  has  no  bail,  but  is  mounted 
with  a  handle  similar  to  the  back  handle,  as  shown  in  Fig.  225.  The 


142 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  '2^-2— Bridge  with  Edges  Wrinkled. 


144 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


bridge  is  made  a  little  stronger  and  the  wire  about  two  sizes  larger 
than  usual,  to  strengthen  the  bridge  enough  to  bear  the  strain  of 
carrying  when  filled  with  coal.  The  pattern  for  the  bottom  may  be 
the  same  as  for  the  round-mouth  scoop,  or,  as  is  sometimes  done,  made 
a  little  fuller,  or  to  rise  about  i  inch  in  the  curve  at  the  mouth, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  257.  When  the  bridge,  see  Fig.  258,  has  been  brazed 
to  the  bottom,  the  back  end  is  wrinkled  and  razed  in,  forming  the 
curve,  as  shown  in  Fig.  257.  After  this  is  done  the  back  is  cramped 
in.  The  wiring  is  made  to  go  completely  round  the  scoop,  commenc- 
ing and  finishing  in  the  middle  of  the  bridge.  The  scoopet  is  made 
to  correspond  with  the  scoop. 

The  Boat,  Fig.  226,  is  next  in  order.  It  will  be  seen  that  this 
scoop  is  formed  like  and  a  little  in  excess  of  three-fourths  of  a  sphere 
that  is,  up  to  and  where  the  lip  commences  the  back  and  bottom,  so 
far  as  the  ears  are,  are  formed  similar  to  the  Nautilus  ;  the  other 
quarter,  when  half  up,  being  worked  out  again  to  form  the  lip,  similar 
to  an  earthen  jug.  Let  it  be  required  to  make  a  Boat  scoop  of  the 
same  dimensions  as  the  Nautilus — namely,  12^  inches  across  the 
bridge.  The  bridge  may  be  cut  from  the  pattern  already  described 
(allowing  for  the  extra  dip  in  the  front),  and  the  bottom  may  be  made 
thus  :  Conceive  the  bottom  to  be  one-half  a  sphere,  12^4  inches  in 
diameter,  then  a  disk  whose  surface  is  equal  to  this  half  sphere  of 
12^  inches  will  be  : 

— 0.^854     =  '^-^'^^ 

Then  draw  the  line  A  B  in  Fig.  259,  making  it  18  +  inches  long,  and 
draw  D  C  at  right  angles  to  it  ;  then  with  the  radius  P  C  describe 
the  semicircle  A  C  B.  This  forms  the  pattern  for  the  back  of  the 
bottom,  A  E  B  for  the  front,  and  the  lune  A  D  B  E  is  the  pattern  for 
the  lip.  Then  A  D  B  C  is  the  pattern  required  for  the  bottom  of  the 
boat  scoop  without  wiring  edge.  Wrinkle  up  the  edges  and  raise  up 
the  back  and  sides  with  a  razing  hammer  on  a  bullet  stake  until  the 
curve  has  reached  the  middle  of  the  back,  and  as  far  as  the  lip  in 
front,  leaving  wrinkles  enough  to  form  the  lip  in  the  second  course  ; 
then  proceed  to  work  back  the  lip  of  the  mouth  with  a  round-faced 
mallet,  which  will  require  perhaps  three  courses.  After  the 
desired  shape  is  obtained,  planish  and  smooth  ;  then  wire  both  bridge 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  258. — Patterns  for  Bottom  and  Bridge  of  Royal  Scoop, 


Fig,  260. — Side  Elevation  of  Helmet  Scoop. 


Fig.  261. — Body  of  Helmet  Scoop  Brazed 
Together. 


« 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING.  I47 

and  bottom  as  directed  for  the  Nautilus  and  put  them  together ; 
clean  up  and  put  on  the  mounting. 

The  Helmet  scoop,  Fig.  227,  was  considered  at  one  time  by  old 
braziers  as  the  summit  of  excellence  in  this  line  ;  but  I  think  that  a 
careful  study  of  the  subject  will  show  that  there  is  as  much  or  more 
skill  required  to  produce  the  Natilus  or  the  Boat  as  is  required  for 
the  Helmet.  They  however,  all  demand  proficiency  and  along,  care- 
ful training  with  much  patience  to  acquire  the  skill  necessary  for  the 
execution  of  the  various  steps  through  which  they  pass  to  completion. 
In  my  boyhood  we  knew  nothing  of  buff  wheels  or  any  of  the  other 
devices  which  have  sometimes  been  used  to  substitute  this  labor  ;  our 
work  was  smooth  and  complete  from  the  hammer  except  the  final 
scouring  to  remove  the  hand  or  finger  marks.  While  it  was  a  tedious 
task  to  acquire  this  proficiency,  it  was  a  continual  source  of  pleas- 
ure and  profit  to  any  who  possessed  the  attainment. 

We  will  make  a  Helmet  scoop,  and  then  describe  the  planishing 
and  smoothing  as  I  was  taught  to  do  it  It  will  be  seen  by  reference 
to  Fig.  260  that  the  scoop-,  if  made  true  by  a  workman,  is  two-thirds  of 
an  ellipse,  with  the  lip  added,  as  shown  by  the  outlines  G  D  A  C.  The 
foci  of  the  ellipse  are  B  and  S,  which  are  obtained  thus,  and  form  the 
foundation  of  the  work.  Draw  B  A  equal  to  the  depth  of  the  scoop, 
and  D  C  at  right  angles  to  it  ;  divide  B  A  in  two  equal  parts  at  S,  and, 
with  S  A  as  radius,  describe  the  arc  I  H  ;  then  with  S  A  lay  off  from  A 
each  way  the  distances  A  I  and  A  H,  and  through  S  draw  the  line  H 
N,  cutting  the  line  N  B  C  at  N.  Now,  with  K  H  describe  the  arc  H 
C,  and  with  J  I  describe  the  arc  I  R,  and  draw  R  D  at  right  angles  to 
N  D  ;  with  N  D  as  radius  describe  the  arc  G  D,  and  G  D  A  C  forms 
the  outline  of  the  body  required.  Continue  I  M  through  M  to  F,  and 
with  B  A  or  K  H  describe  the  arc  X  B  C,  and  join  G  X,  giving  the 
curve  of  the  mouth  when  finished.  To  fashion  this  we  must  prepare 
a  cylinder,  indicated  by  the  dotted  lines  running  through  E  B  C  P  O 
in  Fig.  260,  and  more  clearly  shown  in  Fig.  261.  The  envelope  or  pat- 
tern for  Fig.  261  may  be  drawn  similar  to  that  described  for  a  coal 
hod  in  a  former  chapter.  The  pattern  then  being  given  cramp,  put  to- 
gether and  braze,  trim  the  joint,  knock  down  and  anneal,  then  wrinkle 
at  O  P,  and  on  a  head  in  the  square  shank  raze  in  the  end  so  that 
the  seam  of  the  bottom  may  be  covered  by  the  edgfe  of  the  foot  when 
riveted  on.  When  the  proper  size,  stag  in  the  edge  to  stiffen,  and 
proceed  to  work  out  the  lip,  after  which  put  in  the  bottom  and  true- 
up  to  shape  and  make  the  foot  ready. 


148 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


PLANISHING  AND  SMOOTHING. 

Planishing  as  understood  by  braziers  is  the  art  of  first  molding 
smoothly  or  shaping  the  metal  when  first  formed  ;  second,  hardening 
or  closing  the  grain,  and  third,  by  the  aid  of  the  hammer  giving  it 
a  gloss  or  a  kind  of  case-hardening  sufficient  to  receive  the  final  polish 
with  tripoli,  which  is  a  very  fine  powder  having  a  purple  hue.  To 
planish  the  goods  under  consideration,  it  is  necessary  to  have  the 
heads  as  near  their  curves  as  possible,  and  the  square  shank  of  the  head 
should  be  taper  enough  to  make  it  fit  tight  into  the  tools  which  receive 
it  ;  the  convex  curves  of  the  round  heads  may  run  from  4  inches 
to  2  feet  or  more,  the  long  heads  the  same,  the  long  heads  being 
about  twice  their  width  in  length.  It  is  also  necessary  to  have  a  few 
saddle  heads  for  such  work  as  requires  them,  and  though  we  had  no 
bright  mandrels  then,  later  experience  has  taught  me  that  they  would 
!  have  been  better  adapted  to  our  use  for  many  things  than  the  little 
short  heads  we  had.  Our  hammers  were  various,  some  with  round 
and  some  with  square  flat  faces,  see  Fig.  262,  or  commonly  called  so, 
and  ranged  from  10  ounces  to  3  or  more  pounds.  The  concave  ham- 
mers, Fig.  263 — that  is,  those  whose  faces  are  hollow — ranged  from 
a  circle  of  4  or  5  inches  to  15  inches,  and  were  used  for  spheri- 
cal or  ball-shaped  work.  The  saddle  hammers.  Fig.  264,  and 
those  with  long  faces  were  used  for  such  work  as  helmet  scoop  lip  ; 
we  also  had  a  number  of  bright  bullet  or  convex  hammers  for  special 
purposes. 

Now,  let  us  suppose  we  have  heads  and  hammers  suitable  for  the 
Royal  scoop,  and  that  the  scoop  has  been  scoured  clean  and  bright. 
We  first  take  it  to  a  long  head,  and  commence  by  smoothing  down  all 
the  irregularities  with  a  clean,  smooth-face  mallet.  Take  then  a 
suitable  flat-faced  hammer  weighing,  say,  about  i  pounds,  and  com- 
mence with  blows  from  back  to  front  in  the  middle  of  the  bottom, 
and  in  regular  succession  until  the  edge  is  reached,  making  each  line 
of  blows  lap  a  little  at  their  edges;  now  work  up  the  other  side 
and  over  the  bridge.  Then  proceed  with  the  back  in  circles  on  a 
bullet  stake,  or  a  head  in  an  upright  shank,  the  same  way  until  the 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


149 


Fig.  263. — Concave-Face  Hammer. 


Fig,  264. — Saddle-Face  Hammer. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


first  course  is  completed.  Next  give  it  a  good  rubbing  down  with  a 
clean  rag,  so  that  the  blows  of  the  next  course,  which  is  done  with  a 
spring-faced  hammer,  may  be  readily  seen.  When  this  course  is  fin- 
ished the  scoop  should  be  in  good  shape.  With  a  flannel  wisp  scour 
with  sweet  oil  and  tripoli,  and  clean  off  carefully  all  oil  and  dust. 
Look  over  and  examine  to  find  omitted  spots  and  touch  them  up. 
Then  muffle  the  head  with  a  piece  of  shalloon  or  a  piece  of  skin  parch- 
ment drawn  tight  over  it,  and  go  over  the  work  lightly  to  finish.  The 
spring  face  may  be  changed  from  hammer  to  head,  according  to  the 
ingenuity  of  the  workman  and  to  suit  the  work  in  hand.  The  shal- 
loon supplies  the  place  ot  a  spring  face,  as  also  does  the  skin,  their 
purpose  being  to  take  off  or  counteract  the  effect  of  the  impact  of  the 
hammer,  the  impinging  of  which  on  a  naked  head  causes  a  sharp 
ridge  all  around  the  blow,  and  this  can  only  be  obviated  by  the 
muffler  inside  or  by  the  spring  face  outside.  The  concave 
and  all  other  hammers  may  be  fitted  with  false  or  spring 
faces,  according  to  the  work  for  which  they  are  to  be  used. 

The  parts  of  the  Nautilus  may  be  treated  in  the  same  manner  as 
directed  for  the  Royal.  The  Boat  and  Helmet  scoops  will  call  into 
requisition  both  flat  and  concave,  as  well  as  long  and  saddle-faced 
hammers.  In  working  around  the  lip  of  these  scoops  it  should  be 
stated  that  the  lips  should  be  bright  and  smoothed  on  the  inside  as 
far  as  the  eye  catches  them  at  first  si§:ht  ;  the  rest  is  left  dead — that  is, 
as  the  skin  or  shalloon  leaves  it,  clean  but  dull,  not  bright. 

The  planishing  described  in  the  foregoing  is  for  the  best  kind  of 
bright  work.  The  next  grade  is  for  common  brown  work,  which  is 
finished  in  two  courses.  The  brown  used  is  good  Spanish  brown,  put 
on  dry  with  a  tow  wisp,  well  rubbed  into  the  grain  and  applied  so  that 
plenty  hangs  on,  but  uniformly  all  over  ;  it  is  then  hammered  into  the 
grain  in  the  first  course,  and  then  smoothed  in  the  second.  Another 
style  of  planishing  is  executed  in  a  way  that  every  blow  may  be  seen 
distinctly  and  in  regular  succession,  and  is  adopted  in  that  kind  of 
goods  where  closing  the  grain  or  hardening  is  the  principal  object  m 
view,  as  in  washing  coppers  and  some  other  work  ;  while  for  many 
rough  kinds  of  braziery,  such  as  carboys,  sugar  molds,  pump  heads, 
air  vessels  and  various  kinds  of  boilers,  the  hammering  is  done  in  a 
promiscuous  way,  so  long  as  the  surface  is  covered  and  the  work 
hardened  sufficient  to  maintain  its  shape. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


CRANES  OR  SYPHONS. 

Cranes  or  syphons  may  be  said  to  possess  or  perform  the  func- 
tions of  a  self-acting  pump,  but  their  operation,  in  reality,  is  only  the 
effect  of  destroying  the  equilibrium  of  the  liquor  by  the  unequal 
lengths  of  the  legs  or  ends  of  the  bent  tube  through  which  the  liquor 
passes.  The  liquor  acts  as  if  it  were  a  rope  hanging  or  passing  over 
a  nicely  adjusted  pulley  wheel.  Fig.  265,  the  excess  of  weight  on  the 
one  side  pulling  the  lighter  or  shorter  end  over;  or,  as  the  perpendic- 
ular hight  of  the  column  A  C,  Fig.  266,  is  greater  than  that  of  B  D, 
and  the  pressure  of  the  atmosphere  the  same  at  both  orifices,  the 
pressure  or  weight  of  water  at  C  is  greater  than  at  D,  and  therefore 
the  weight  at  A,  Fig.  267,  overbalances  that  at  B,  and  draws  the 
liquor  over  the  bend.  In  the  meantime  the  atmospheric  pressure  at 
the  end  B  is  forcing  the  liquor  up  through  the  orifice  at  B,  and  it  con- 
tinues to  flow  from  A  until  the  liquor  in  the  vessel  falls  to  the  level 
of  the  orifice  B.  These  simple  machines  were  made  for,  and  are 
principally  used  by,  brewers  and  wine  and  spirit  merchants  to  draw 
off  the  contents  of  casks  of  various  kinds,  where  it  is  not  desirable 
to  insert  a  faucet.  They  are  usually  formed  of  a  copper  tube  about 
1%  inches  inside,  and  with  a  cock  at  the  longer  end,  as  shown  in  Fig. 
268,  for  the  purpose  and  convenience  of  stopping  the  flow  when 
necessary.  They  are  also  supplied  with  a  small  tube,  E,  running 
along  the  side,  by  which  the  liquor  is  made  to  flow  when 
the  air  has  been  exhausted  through  it  by  the  mouth,  the  long 
end  of  the  syphon  being  stopped  with  a  cork  or  by  the  hand  covering 
the  orifice,  or  the  syphon  may  be  charged  through  a  stopcock  with 
funnel  at  the  crown  G  when  the  liquor  to  be  drawn  off  is  of  an  offen- 
sive nature,  as  is  sometimes  the  case.  The  inside  of  the  bend  H  is 
reinforced  with  a  saddle  piece  from  A  to  B  to  protect  the  bend  from 
the  hoops  of  barrels  being  emptied.  The  stopcock  was  soldered  to  its 
place  and  the  end  lengthened  out  with  two  plumbers'  joints,  D  and  F, 
and  the  ends  strengthened  as.  at  C,  to  shield  it  from  contact  with  the 
ground  while  moving  it  about  when  in  use.  A  pipe  of  25  to  30  pound 
plate  was  considered  fairly  strong. 

We  will  make  one,  and  let  he  1%  inches  inside  (the  thickness  of  the 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING, 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING.  153 

metal  will  be  about  1-16  inch)  ;  then  to  make  pipe  a  1-16  inch  thick  and 
inches  inside  diameter  we  have  0.0625  +  1.25  x  3.1416  =  4.1232,  or 
4}i  inches  wide,  and  some  7  feet  long.*  Now  thin  the  edges  on  oppo- 
site sides  and  trim  and  smooth  them  with  a  file  and  anneal  ;  when 
cool  scour  clean  and  take  it  to  a  vise  and  with  a  razing  hammer  sink  it 
between  the  jaws  of  the  vise  or  some  other  suitable  tool,  such  as  a 
blacksmiths'  swedge  block  (if  handy).  When  half  turned  finish  it  on 
I  inch  steel  bar,  closing  the  edge  uniformly  down  the  whole  length. 
Now  jar  some  borax  and  water  through  the  joint  and  charge  it  with 
solder,  which  may  be  done  on  the  outside  or  inside,  as  preferred  by 
the  operator,  although  it  is  the  best  job  when  charged  inside.  Dry 
carefully,  and  when  the  borax  is  all  down  run  the  solder  down  the 
joint  with  a  moderately  brisk  but  clean  fire.  When  cool  examine  and 
repair  any  deficiency  ;  then  trim  the  joint  and  swage  on  the  bar;  then 
anneal,  and  fill  with  rosin,  and  in  the  absence  of  any  other  conven- 
ience it  may  be  bent  in  a  well-worn  hole  in  the  edge  of  the  bench. 
Before  bending  see  that  the  edge  of  the  seam  is  perpendicularly  in 
the  center  of  the  pipe  and  that  it  laps  toward  the  inside  of  the  bend? 
because  if  it  is  bent  with  the  seam  lapping  toward  the  outside  there 
is  a  tendency  to  break.  Be  careful  that  no  cinders  or  other  foreign 
matter  gets  into  the  pipe  ;  and  have  the  rosin  clean  and  solid  when 
cool.  When  bent  and  the  resin  has  been  taken  out  solder  in  the  sad- 
dle piece,  A  B,  put  on  the  rings,  C  and  K,  and  fasten  in  the  cock;  next 
put  on  the  air  tube,  F,  below  the  cock,  clean  off  all  the  soft  solder 
practicable  and  finish  up  clean. 

*  Note, — The  first  syphon  I  saw  when  a  boy  was  made  in  three  pieces — ^that  is,  the  bend  and 
two  legs  soft  soldered  together.  The  reason  for  this  was,  our  sheets  were  only  4  feet  long  ;  and 
again,  our  forge  was  not  adapted  for  this  kind  of  work.  The  next  one  was  made  in  two  pieces^ 
and  brazed  together  and  bent  after.  The  last  one  was  in  one  piece  of  solid  drawn  tube  with 
the  cock  and  the  air  tube  brazed  on. 


154 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


PUMPS. 

Copper  pumps,  or  rather  pump  heads  with  cylinder,  have  been 
and  are  now  made  in  several  different  styles  and  shapes  to  be  used 
for  various  purposes;  among  which  are  those  made  for  brewers  and 
bargemen,  tanners,  oilmen  and  others.  The  pump  illustrated  in  Fig. 
269  is  the  simplest  kind  made,  so  far  as  the  brazier  is  concerned.  It 
consists  of  a  straight  piece  of  pipe  of  the  desired  length,  usually  from 
8  to  10  feet  long,  with  a  flange  at  each  end,  the  head  being  made  large 
enough  to  hold  about  two  strokes — that  is,  to  have  room  enough  so- 
that  it  may  not  overflow  while  in  operation.  The  head  is  a  straight 
cylinder,  Fig.  270,  having  the  bottom  turned  in  far  enough  to  take 
the  bolts  so  that  it  may  be  bolted  to  the  flange,  as  shown,  the  bolt 
heads  being  on  the  inside;  the  spout,  Fig.  271,  is  flanged  and  riveted 
to  the  side  of  the  head  near  the  bottom.  The  iroji  ring  and  double 
eye,  Fig.  272,  in  which  the  handle  works,  is  then  riveted  to  the  top 
edge  and  the  copper  turned  over  evenly  all  round  the  rim. 

We  will  make  one  10  feet  long  from  bottom  to  spout,  and  let  it  be 
1-16  inch  thick  and  2^  inches  in  diameter  inside;  then  we  have  0.0625  + 
2,5  X  3,1416=7.2648,  or  71^  inches;  cut  the  strip  and  trim  the  edges,  an- 
neal and  scour  clean.  Now  lay  it  in  a  trough,  Fig.  273,  made  by  a  10 
X  2-inch  oak  plank,  having  two  other  pieces  2  inches  thick  fastened 
to  its  sides,  making  a  trough  about  5  inches  wide.  With  a  mallet  sink 
the  sheet  in  the  trough;  then  turn  it  over  on  the  mandrel  and  finish 
the  turning,  being  careful  to  keep  the  seam  straight  and  closed  down 
evenly  (I  have  sometimes  put  a  cramp  at  each  end  and  one  in  the 
middle  to  keep  the  joint  close).  Now  jar  some  borax  and  water 
through  the  seam  and  with  a  reed,  Fig.  274  (that  is,  a  strip  of  light 
copper  about  i  inch  wide  turned  half  round),  filled  with  solder,  charge 
the  seam  by  sliding  the  full  reed  through  the  length  of  the  pipe,  and, 
turning  it  over  on  the  joint,  jar  the  solder  out  of  the  reed  and  remove 
it.  Take  the  tube  to  the  fire  and  dry  it;  then  gradually  make  it  hot 
all  along,  and  when  the  solder  is  all  down,  run  it  dowQ  the  seam  on  a 
moderately  brisk  fire.  When  cool  examine  and  repair  all  faulty 
places,  if  there  are  any;  clean  off  the  joint  and  planish  on  a  smooth 
mandrel  as  near  the  size  as  you  have  at  hand,  and  then  braze  on  the 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


flanges.  Make  the  head  to  hold,  say,  i  gallon.  A  strip  of  copper  24 
inches  long  and  6  inches  wide  would  make  i  gallon  head,  but  there 
must  be  in  addition  i  inch  to  turn  in  for  bolts  and  yz  inch  to  turn  over 
the  iron  ring,  making  the  width,  therefore,  7}^  inches.  Cut  it  out  and 
work  it  up,  and  make  the  spout  2  inches  in  diameter,  flange  it,  fit  it 
and  rivet  it  on,  and  then  bolt  the  head  to  the  flange  and  clean  up. 
The  cylinder  for  this  pump  is  made  of  gun  metal  and  the  clacks  are 
all  ground  in  the  pump,  as  it  is  used  principally  for  hot  work. 

The  next  pump,  Fig.  275,  is  used  by  bargemen,  tanners  and  others 
to  pump  liquids  from  barges  and  tan  pits,  wells,  cellars,  foundations, 
&c.  This  pump  is  somewhat  similar  to  Fig.  269,  but  is  usually  fur- 
nished with  a  wooden  bucket  and  leather  clack;  the  bottom  clack  is 
also  of  leather,  although  it  may  be,  and  often  is,  fitted  with  brass 
bucket  and  clacks  when  made  for  brewers.  The  pump,  when  com- 
plete, is  usually  10  feet  from  bottom  to  the  delivery  spout,  but  they 
are  made  whatever  size  is  required,  so  that  any  number  of  men  may 
be  used  to  work  them.  It  will  be  seen  that  the  cylinder  of  this  pump, 
in  which  the  bucket  or  plunger  works,  is  enlarged,  and  forms  part  of 
the  pump,  and  is  drawn  in  small  enough  to  suit  the  suction  pipe, 
which  is  invariably  the  same  size  as  the  bucket  clack,  so  that  the  full 
column  or  capacity  of  the  suction  pipe  may  be  thrown  from  the  de- 
livery spout.  When  this  pump  is  correctly  made  the  barrel  is  per- 
fectly cylindrical,  and  is  a  good  job  when  completed.  Let  us  make  one 
and  suppose  the  cylinder  to  be  4  inches  in  diameter  inside  and  2  feet 
long,  and  let  it  be  1-16  inch  thick;  then  0.0625  -f-  4  x  3.1416  =  12.75,  the 
circumference  or  width  of  the  sheet  required.  Cut  it  out  and  trim  off 
the  burrs  and  trim;  cramp,  making  the  cramps  about  2  inches  long, 
turn  and  bind  with  wire,  and  close  down  the  joint  carefully,  so  that  the 
inside  is  smooth;  that  is,  after  the  joint  has  been  laid  with  a  hammer. 
Then  take  a  mallet  and  with  a  few  smart  blows  bring  the  joint  down  to 
the  spindle,  which  should  not  be  less  than  3  inches  in  diameter;  next 
charge  the  joint  and  let  the  solder  follow  the  zigzag  course  of  the 
edges  of  the  cramps;  dry  and  heat  the  back  of  the  pipe  to  take  off 
any  spring,  and  then  turn  the  joint  to  the  fire,  and  run  it  down,  care 
being  taken  that  the  fire  is  clean.  The  suction  pipe  is  made  in  a 
similar  way,  but  need  not  be  cramped.  Flange  the  cylinder  G,  Fisf. 
276,  and  draw  in  the  end,  making  a  collar,  say,  inches  wide,  and 
jfit  the  suction  pipe  to  it  and  tin  both  parts  of  the  joint.  Make  the 
head  Y,  Fig.  275,  about  8  inches  in  diameter  and  the  same  in  depth  to 


158 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


the  turn  of  the  bottom.  To  do  this  there  is  required  a  strip  lo  inches 
wide,  tog-ether  with  ^  inch  to  turn  over  the  ring  and  double  eye, 
making  a  strip  io%  wide  by  25^4^  inches  long.  Cut  it  out  and  form 
and  raze  in  the  bottom  end  of  G,  so  that  the  hole  is  4  inches.  The 
barrel,  or  cylinder,  may  now  be  riveted  to  its  place  and  the  suction 
pipe  joined  to  it  by  a  plumber's  joint,  D,  Fig.  275,  or  it  may  have  a 
socket  joint,  Y,  also  soft  soldered.  Solder  the  length  of  pipe  together, 
making  the  whole,  when  complete,  10  feet  from  bottom  to  delivery 
spout.  Now  put  in  the  lower  clack  about  12  inches  from  the  bottom, 
then  the  bucket  and  clean  up.  The  next  pump.  Fig.  277,  is  made  in 
every  way  similar  to  the  last,  excepting  that  it  has  a  flange  brazed  at 
the  bottom  of  the  barrel.  Fig.  278,  while  the  additional  coupling  flange 
is  attached  to  a  piece  of  iron  pipe  and  screw  threaded,  for  iron  pipe  or  a 
leather  hose. 

The  pump,  Fig.  279,  is  used  by  oilmen  and  others  to  lift  oil  out  of 
barrels  and  is  a  good  job  for  a  young  man  approaching  the  end  of  his 
apprenticeship.  The  head  is  made  spherical,  and  the  spout  after  being 
bent  extends  from  the  pump  about  2  feet.  The  pump  from  clack 
to  delivery  spout  is  usually  irom  4  to  5  feet  long  and  2  inches  in 
diameter.  The  spout  is  tapering  from  inches  at  the  bend  to  2  at 
the  flange.  This  head  may  be  formed  from  a  strip  of  metal  the 
required  size,  as  shown  in  Fig.  280,  the  two  ends  being  razed  in 
similar  to  a  round  tea  kettle  body,  leaving  the  wiring  edge  as  the  work 
proceeds.  When  the  bottom  end  is  razed  in  sufficiently  the  short 
flange  pipe  or  flanged  collar  is  cramped  in  as  shown  and  brazed;  the 
head  is  then  planished  brown  and  wired  and  the  collar  tinned.  The 
flange  of  the  spout,  Fig.  281,  is  worked  out  so  that  it  will  fit  on  the 
underside  of  the  head  to  empty  it  and  the  operation  of  flanging  is 
performed  during  the  turning;  that  is,  it  is  begun  while  flat,  and  as 
the  work  proceeds  the  spout  curls  round  the  seam,  being  on  the  under- 
side. When  flanged  and  the  seam  soldered,  fill  with  rosin  or  lead  and 
bend  the  end.  Now  make  the  pipe.  Fig.  282,  and  let  it  be  2  inches 
inside  diameter.  Cut  out  the  strip,  thin,  sink  in  trough.  Fig.  273,  and 
finish,  turning  on  the  bar  and  making  the  joint  straight.  Solder  it 
downward,  clean  off  and  put  it  on  the  bar,  Fig.  283,  then  with  a  swage 
and  a  sledge  hammer  smooth  the  pipe,  making  it  cylindrical  and 
smooth,  so  that  a  brass  plunger  or  bucket  will  work  uniformly  through 
it.  Next  swell  out  the  end  to  receive  the  collar  of  the  head.  Fig.  284, 
which  must  be  the  same  size  as  internal  diameter  of  the  pipe,  so  that 


i6o 


ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


i6i 


the  joint  may  be  smooth  inside.  Rivet  on  the  spout,  solder  in  the 
head,  fit  in  the  clack  and  the  bucket,  put  in  the  handle  and  clean 
all  up. 

The  next  pump,  Fig.  285,  is  called  a  single  jigger.  This  pump  is 
mounted  on  a  heavy  cast-iron  plate  with  avenues  or  water  courses  on 
the  underside.  The  cylinder  and  first  bend  with  flange  is  cast  of  gun 
metal,  and  the  stand  or  upright  pipe  and  air  vessel  are  made  of 
copper.  The  outlet  or  discharge  pipe  may  be  either  soft  soldered  or 
plain,  or  it  may  be  riveted  and  soldered,  or  brazed  on.  The  air 
vessel  may  fit  on  the  inside  or  end  of  the  pipe,  or  be  swelled 
out  to  receive  it.  The  handle,  or  jigger,  is  fastened  to  the  stand  pipe 
with  a  clamp  and  bolt,  which  is  made  to  form  the  double  eye  for  the 
jigger  which  is  suggested  by  the  sketch. 

The  last  or  double-jigger  pump  is  shown  in  Fig.  286,  and  as  far  as 
the  brazier  is  concerned,  is  the  same  as  the  pump,  Fig.  285,  with  the 
addition  only  of  the  J  piece  at  Y,  the  cast-iron  plate  also  being 
made  larger  to  conform  to  the  needs  of  the  two  cylinders  forming  the 
double-action  pump. 

And  now  in  closing  my  recollections  of  light  sheet  copper  work- 
ing or  braziery,  from  early  childhood  to  manhood,  if  I  have  been 
fortunate  enough  to  have  supplied  the  means  of  helping  some 
struggling,  earnest  boy  on  the  road  to  success,  the  purpose  of  these 
articles  is  acccomplished.  At  the  same  time,  it  is  hoped  by  the  writer 
that  they  may  be  read  with  a  degree  of  pleasure  and  profit  by  some  of 
the  elders  of  the  craft. 


l62 


ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


RAILWAY  AND  MARINE 

COPPERSMITHS  AND  THEIR  APPLIANCES 

Men  skilled  in  the  art  of  working  sheet  copper  are  usually  divided 
into  three  classes,  which  may  almost  be  designated  as  three  separate 
trades.  The  first  and  most  ancient  have  been  known  for  centuries  as 
braziers.  These  men  were  employed  in  the  manufacture  of  all  kinds 
of  cooking  utensils,  transmitting  their  craft  from  father  to  son  for 
many  generations,  and  have  guarded  their  patrimony  with  a  jealous 
eye.  The  next  division  was  turned  in  the  direction  of  larger  and 
heavier  vessels,  such  as  brewing  coppers,  tallow  coppers,  dyers'  cop- 
pers, stills  of  various  kinds  and  vacuum  pans  for  refining  sugar,  worms 
and  coils,  pumps,  and  many  other  heavy  articles  and  vessels.  These 
men  are  called  coppersmiths,  and  properly  so,  because  a  majority  of 
their  work  has  no  need  of  soldering  or  brazing,  and  as  a  rule  they  are 
poor  brazers.  With  the  advent  of  the  steam  engine  another  and  third 
branch  was  called  into  existence.  These  men  are  employed  about 
locomotive  and  marine  engines,  and  seldom  seek  employment  in  any 
other  line.  Their  work  principally  consists  in  making  pipes  of  various 
sizes,  forming  bends,  tee-pieces,  cross-pieces,  and,  in  fact,  twisting  a 
copper  pipe  into  any  conceivable  shape  required  to  fit  the  position  it 
is  intended  to  occupy.  We  shall  for  the  present  engage  the  attention 
of  the  reader  to  this  last  class  of  coppersmiths,  and  endeavor  to  de- 
scribe a  well-appointed  shop  for  this  kind  of  work.  The  first  and 
most  essential  thing  for  a  healthy  coppersmiths'  shop  is  a  lofty, 
spacious  room  ;  if  possible,  not  less  than  20  feet  high,  with  a  floor  50 
X  60  feet  ;  the  light  should,  if  practicable,  come  from  the  roof  through 
opaque  glass  ;  the  roof  should  be  furnished  with  dormers  having  mov- 
able slats,  which  may  be  raised  and  lowered  as  occasion  requires  to 
let  out  the  fumes  and  gases  that  arise  from  the  fuel  in  the  forges  and 
from  the  metal  which  is  being  worked,  for  they  are  often  of  a  most 
repugnant  and  almost  suffocating  nature.  The  room  having  been  ob- 
tained and  provision  made  for  the  easy  exit  of  the  poisonous  gases, 
benches  for  the  accommodation  of  from  six  to  ten  men  may  be  erected 
and  fixed  firmly  against  the  wall  on  one  side  of  the  shop  to  suit  con- 
venience, as  shown  in  Fig.  287.  The  benches  should  not  be  less  than 
3  feet  wide  and  3  inches  thick,  of  some  hard  wood.    They  should 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


 ^ 


-If  VISE 


TOOL  BLOCK 


BRICK  FORGE 


-jj-VISF 


MANDRtL  BLOCK 


SHOP 

50'x  6o' 


□ 


BRICK  FORGE 


-If  VISE 


□ 


BENDING  BLOCK 
□ 

B 


□ 


CAULDRON  FURNACE 


[3    O  □ 


Fig.  I'&'j.—Plan  of  Shop. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


165 


be  provided  with  capacious  drawers  for  the  tools  of  each  man,  with  a 
vise  at  each  drawer,  Fig.  288,  the  vises  being  not  less  than  8  feet 
apart.  The  bench  may  reach  as  far  as  necessary  along  the  side  of  the 
shop,  and  may  turn  at  the  end  as  far  as  the  door.  The  doors  should 
be  in  the  middle  of  each  end,  and  large  enough  to  allow  such  work  to 
pass  through  as  is  likely  to  be  done,  and  admit  a  current  of  air  readily 
when  necessary.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  shop  three  forges  may 
be  placed,  two  made  of  brick,  and  one.  A,  of  iron.  The  two  of  brick. 
Fig.  288,  should  be  about  3  feet  high  and  3  feet  wide,  and  reach  5  or  6 
feet  from  the  wall.  In  the  center  of  the  top  is  the  fire  hole,  which  is 
about  10  inches  wide  and  12  long  and  from  8  to  10  deep.  The  blast 
can  be  supplied  in  the  most  convenient  way,  either  from  a  fan  or  a 
large  bellows  ;  if  from  bellows,  they  should  be  hung  overhead  out  of 
the  way,  so  as  to  be  convenient  for  the  two  outside  forges,  pipes  being 
laid  so  the  blast  can  be  carried  from  one  fire  to  the  other,  and  to  all 
if  necessary.  The  iron  forge,  Fig.  289,  should  be  made  of  ^-inch 
boiler  iron,  and  so  constructed  that  the  side  leaves  can  be  taken  off 
easily  when  necessary. 

In  the  spaces  between  the  three  fires  should  be  two  pits  of  con- 
venient depth  to  receive  from  8  to  10  feet  of  pipe.  These  pits  are 
about  3x4  feet  and  6  deep,  and  covered  with  a  lid  of  2-inch  oak  plank; 
one  plank  of  the  lid  or  cover  being  left  loose,  to  give  access  to  the 
pit.  In  one  of  the  outer  corners  of  the  pits  a  blast  pipe  is  fixed  for 
work  which  must  be  done  over  or  near  a  pit.  On  the  same  side  of  the 
shop  is  a  bin  to  hold  coke.  Figs  287  and  289,  and  which  is  placed  close 
to  the  door.  On  the  opposite  side  and  in  the  space  from  door  to  wall 
a  furnace  is  erected  having  a  cast-iron  caldron  for  the  purpose  of 
melting  lead,  also  a  fire  to  melt  the  rosin  used  to  fill  pipes  for  bending. 
Above  each  of  these  fires  and  forges  is  a  kind  of  tramway  for  wheels 
to  run  on,  the  lower  wheel  carrying  a  chain,  as  shown  in  the  cuts. 
The  chain  should  be  large  enough  so  that  a  hook  at  each  end  of  it  can 
be  readily  caught  in  the  links.  The  chain  is  used  to  hoist  up  and 
sling  the  work  that  it  may  be  easily  manipulated  over  the  fire  and  at 
the  mandrel  block.  To  the  wall  is  fixed  a  hitching  hook  for  the  pur- 
pose of  tying  the  fall  end  of  the  chain  when  work  is  slung  over  the 
fire.  The  tramways  are  conveniently  placed  so  that  work  may  be 
easily  carried  from  one  place  to  another  and  to  and  from  the  fire;  also 
to  hold  the  work  balanced  while  being  operated  on  at  the  mandrel 
block  or  bench.    The  mandrel  block  is  made  of  cast-iron  plates  some 


ART  OF^COPPERSMITHING. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


167 


2  inches  thick,  and  about  5  feet  long  and  4  feet  wide,  stood  on  edge, 
2  feet  apart.  The  plates,  which  are  firmly  fixed  opposite  each  other, 
have  holes  in  them  both  round  and  square  to  receive  round  and  square 
mandrels,  which  go  through  both  plates,  so  that  the  mandrels  may  be 
securely  wedged  and  held  fast  in  their  places.  Some  20  feet  from  the 
back  or  furnace  end  of  shop  floor  is  fixed  a  cast-iron  post,  B,  from 
12  to  14  inches  square.  This  post  is  for  the  purpose  of  bending  pipe, 
and  is  called  a  bending  block.  It  should  be  placed  as  near  the  middle 
of  the  shop  as  convenient,  and  must  be  firmly  set  in  the  ground  with 
a  good  broad  foot  at  the  bottom,  as  it  requires  considerable  power  to 
bend  5-inch  pipe  filled  with  lead,  and  if  the  block  is  not  solid  the 
power  used  in  bending  would  loosen  it.  The  top  of  the  block  has  a 
ledge  4  inches  deep  for  a  strap  to  rest  upon,  the  strap  holding  the 
lead-piece.  The  strap  is  of  iron,  1  inch  thick  and  3  inches  wide,  made 
like  a  square  staple  with  the  ends  drawn  down  so  that  a  i^-inch 
thread  can  be  cut  on  them.  Another  piece  of  iron  with  holes  in  each 
end  is  made  to  go  over  the  threaded  ends  of  the  strap.  This  strap  is 
to  hold  a  thick  lead-piece  on  top  of  the  block,  the  lead  having  a  hole 
in  it  large  enough  to  take  the  pipe  in  easily  which  may  be  required  to 
be  bent. 

Since  this  article  was  prepared  I  have  been  favored  by  Mr.  More- 
ton,  one  of  the  workmen  in  the  coppersmiths'  shop  of  the  London  and 
Southwestern  Railway  of  London,  England,  with  two  views  of  the  in- 
terior of  a  new  and  larger  shop  than  the  one  above  described,  the 
arrangement  of  which  is  a  little  different  from  the  old  shop.  In  these 
two  illustrations  of  the  new  shop.  Figs  290  and  291,  I  notice  the  old 
brick  forge  has  been  discarded  and  the  position  of  all  the  forges  has 
been  changed.  The  new  ones  are  apparently  placed  in  the  middle 
of  the  shop,  which  has  probably  been  found  more  convenient.  The 
first  object  in  the  picture,  Fig.  290,  is  the  floor  block,  with  a  bottom 
stake  standing  in  it.  A  little  to  the  right  of  this  is  an  anvil,  used  to 
work  down  the  saddles  of  bends  which  are  made  in  two  halves.  (One 
of  these  bends  is  lying  on  the  end  of  the  mandrel  block  in  Fig.  291.) 

On  a  table  near  are  two  brass  valve  covers,  the  crowns  of  which 
have  just  been  brazed  in.  The  next  thing  beyond  these  covers  is  a 
forge,  in  which  there  was  a  fire  when  the  picture  was  taken.  Other 
prominent  objects  are  three  brass  dome  covers,  the  making  of  which 
will  be  described  later. 

The  next  thing  we  notice  is  a  coping,  which  is  made  of  sheet 


170 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


iron  and  screws  as  a  finish  to  the  lagging-  of  the  back  end  of  the  fire 
box.  Under  the  left-hand  end  of  this  coping  is  a  pit  with  a  blast  pipe 
at  the  southeast  corner  of  it.  Hanging  on  the  wall  is  another  kind 
of  coping  for  the  front  end  of  the  fire  box,  and  which  connects  the 
lagging  of  the  fire  box  with  that  of  the  boiler.  The  traveler  chains 
used  for  slinging  work  are  all  clearly  shown  hanging  at  different 
points  in  the  shop.  In  the  other  picture,  Fig.  291,  taken  from  another 
point,  the  benches  are  shown.  The  principal  object  on  the  bench  is 
another  iron  coping  finished  ready  for  fitting,  and  in  the  corner  are 
two  long  boiler  steam  pipes  6  inches  in  diameter,  which  are  the  larg- 
est pipes  usually  made  in  a  locomotive  shop.  The  next  thing  is  the 
mandrel  block,  upon  which  are  lying  four  cods,  six  small  heads  of  dif- 
ferent shapes  and  three  large  long  heads:  In  the  end  hole  at  the  left 
hand  of  the  mandrel  block  is  a  wooden  bar  made  to  receive  the  shank 
of  the  large  heads,  the  end  of  the  bar  being  shoed  with  an  iron  strap 
to  keep  the  head  in  and  form  the  hole  for  the  head  shank. 
The  shop,  it  will  be  noticed,  is  illuminated  by  electric  light, 
two  lamps  being  shown.  In  the  left-hand  corner  of  the  mandrel 
block,  and  securely  fastened,  is  a  3-inch  round  iron  bar  about  7 
feet  long,  upon  which  are  two  cast-iron  blocks  that  slide  up  and 
down  the  bar  as  required.  These  blocks  have  holes  in  them  to 
receive  mandrels,  and  are  made  fast  by  a  suitable  set  screw  at  the 
back,  which  holds  the  block  at  any  required  hight  when  the  main 
mandrel  block  is  too  low  for  the  work  in  hand.  A  little  to  the  left  of 
this  bar  is  a  screw  jack,  used  to  hold  up  one  end  of  a  pipe  at  the  fire 
or  for  other  purposes.  On  the  wall  may  be  seen  various  wire  tem- 
plates of  delivery  and  other  pipes.  Altogether  these  pictures  afford 
an  interesting  peep  into  a  London  railway  coppersmiths'  shop. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


171 


MAKING   COPPER  PIPE. 

Copper  pipes  until  recently  were  made  by  hand  in  10  and  12  foot 
lengths,  and  from  Y-z  inch  in  diameter  to  any  required  size,  and  so  great 
was  the  demand  with  the  advent  of  the  steam  engine  that  many  men, 
who  were  called  pipe  makers,  were  employed  exclusively  in  making 
copper  pipes  and  brass  tubes.  The  marine  coppersmith  is  now  sup- 
plied with  all  sizes  of  straight  pipes  ready  to  his  hand,  but  formerly 
he  made  them  all.  There  have  been  rapid  strides  made  in  this  art, 
and,  like  all  other  arts,  that  of  the  coppersmith  has  had  to  succumb  to 
the  march  of  scientific  and  practical  research.  Copper  pipes  are  now 
drawn  and  made  without  seam,  yet  it  often  happens  that  the  copper- 
smith is  called  on  to  make  a  few  lengths  in  an  emergency,  and  the 
most  efficient  method  of  doing  this  by  hand  will  now  be  described. 
If  the  sheet  of  which  the  pipe  is  to  be  made  is  heavy  the  edges  are 
thinned  on  the  opposite  sides  of  the  strip;  it  is  then  turned  and  lapped 
only.  If,  on  the  other  hand,  the  sheet  is  light,  the  edges  must  be 
cramped  before  thinning.  If  the  pipe  to  be  made  is  more  than  6  feet 
long,  we  use  a  trough.  Fig.  292,  made  of  two  long  planks  about  2 
inches  thick,  placed  in  crossed  pieces  similar  to  a  sawbuck,  and  lying 
at  right  angles  to  each  other.  The  sheet  is  laid  in  the  trough  and  a 
straight  bar  is  dropped  on  the  sheet  metal,  which  yields  to  the  falling 
bar,  and  the  first  form  is  thus  given  to  the  sheet.  It  is  then  further 
rounded  by  placing  it  the  other  side  up  over  one  of  the  edges  of  the 
trough  and  bringing  it  together  with  a  mallet.  When  brought  together 
sufficiently  the  joint  is  laid  even  on  a  long  steel  bar  fastened  at 
one  end  in  the  mandrel  block.  If  the  pipe  is  to  be  made  of  thin 
sheet  metal,  then  the  joint  should  be  cramped  together.  This  is 
done  by  cutting  the  edge  on  one  side  about  every  2  or  3  inches 
with  a  chisel  held  slanting  so  that  the  cramp  will  form  a  lap  where 
cut,  as  shown  in  Fig.  293.  The  edge  is  now  suitably  thinned,  after 
which  the  sheet  is  turned  round.  The  outside  cramps  are  then  lifted 
so  as  to  admit  the  other  edge,  which  is  not  cut,  and  which  is  put 
between  the  cramps,  one  going  inside  and  the  other  outside. 

The  pipe.  Fig.  294,  is  then  bound  together  with  pieces  of  binding 
wire  placed  about  2  feet  apart  and  pulled  up  tight,  the  cramps  are 
•closed  down  and  the  joint  laid  evenly  with  a  hammer  or  mallet  to  suit 


172 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  2.^.— Portable  Supports  for  Holding  Pipes  while  Brazing. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


the  joint  required.  The  joint  must  now  be  made  to  chatter — that  is, 
jarred  to  loosen  it  enough  so  that  the  spelter  may  have  room  to  flow 
freely  through  the  joint  when  it  is  being  brazed.  All  the  foregoing 
directions  having  been  followed  successively,  we  now  proceed  to 
charge  the  joint  with  spelter.  The  spelter  is  mixed  with  clean  water 
and  borax,  equal  amounts  of  spelter  and  borax  by  measure  being 
used.  The  best  results  follow  if  the  mixture  is  made  ready  two  or 
three  days  before  wanted.  To  charge  the  joint  take  a  strip  of  metal 
and  form  it  into  a  V-shaped  reed,  Fig.  295,  the  length  of  the  pipe 
and  large  enough  to  hold  a  sufficient  quantity  of  spelter  for  the  joint. 
Fill  the  reed  evenly  with  spelter,  and  then  slide  it  carefully 
through  the  pipe,  laying  it  evenly  on  one  side  of  the  seam. 
Then  turn  the  reed  over  on  the  seam,  jar  the  spelter  out  of  it 
and  carefully  remove  the  reed.  The  pipe  is  then  ready  for  the 
fire.  The  fire  must  be  clean  and  made  of  clean  coke,  care  being  taken 
that  no  lead  or  soft  solder  is  on  the  forge  or  in  the  fire.  The  pipe  is 
laid  on  the  supports,  Fig.  296,  which  are  made  of  angle  iron  and  bolted 
to  a  heavy  foot  so  as  to  stand  firm.  The  angle  irons  have  holes 
punched  about  i  inch  apart,  and  a  ^-inch  rod  run  through  with  a 
wheel  between  the  standards  having  a  groove  in  it  large  enough  to 
lay  the  pipe  in  so  that  as  the  joint  is  brazed  it  can  easily  be  drawn 
through  the  fire  without  any  unnecessary  friction.  During  the  process 
of  soldering  a  pan  of  powdered  borax  must  be  at  hand  in  case  at  some 
point  the  spelter  should  need  more  to  fiux  it.  After  the  pipe  is  cooled 
the  seam  is  cleaned  ofE  by  a  sharp  file  and  taken  to  the  mandrel,  and 
with  a  bright  top  swage  it  is  rounded  up  and  smoothed  ready  for  use. 

PIECING  AND  JOINING  PIPES. 

There  are  two  ways  of  piecing  or  joining  copper  pipes — namely,  a 
flush  joint  and  a  socket  joint,  soft  soldering  and  hard  soldering  or 
brazing  being  employed.  The  manner  of  making  a  flush  joint  for 
soft  soldering  is  shown  in  A  and  B,  Fig.  297.  A  represents  a  flush 
joint  prepared  and  ready  for  soft  soldering.  B  represents  a  socket 
joint  prepared  for  soft  soldering.  C  a  flush  joint  for  hard  solder,  and 
D  a  socket  joint  for  hard  solder.  The  socket  joint  is  adopted  when 
it  is  necessary  to  preserve  the  full  bore  of  the  pipe  ;  the  flush  joint 
when  it  is  necessary  to  retain  the  exact  size  outside,  as  in  the  case  of 
a  gland,  or  where  a  screw  nut  has  to  pass  over  the  joint. 

In  Fig.  297,  A,  it  will  be  noticed  that  one  piece  has  been  reduced, 
or  swaged  down  ;  this  may  be  done  with  a  top  and  bottom  swage  used 


174 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING.  175 

by  blacksmiths,  if  proper  care  be  exercised,  and  the  part  operated  on 
kept  soft,  or  it  may  be  reduced  with  a  raising  hammer.  The  inner 
piece  should  be  carefully  fitted,  and,  where  reduced,  of  sufficient 
length  to  allow  of  its  being  kept  cool  at  the  end,  so  that  it  will  retain 
the  solder  when  the  fire  is  applied  to  the  joint.  The  female  or  outside 
piece  should  be  thinned  at  the  end,  and  the  male  or  inside  piece  care- 
fully hammered  (not  filed)  to  fit  the  scarf  of  the  female  end,  which 
vShould  project  from  the  side  sufficiently  so  that  a  suitable  stick  or  bar 
of  solder,  when  the  joint  is  made  hot  enough  to  melt  solder,  can  be 
drawn  around  the  joint  without  any  of  it  running  down  the  outside,  or 
when  being  filled  from  a  ladle  of  solder,  as  is  often  done.  Sometimes 
it  is  best  and  most  convenient  to  wipe  a  plumber's  joint,  as  it  often 
happens  that  a  fire  cannot  be  applied  or  used  in  the  work,  either  from 
its  situation  or  because  it  would  be  unsafe  to  apply  a  fire. 

The  socket  joint,  Fig.  297,  should  be  carefully  fitted  as  in  the  case 
of  A,  the  projection  of  the  edge  of  the  socket  answering  the  purpose 
of  the  projection  as  in  the  flush  joint  A — namely,  to  insert  or  run  the 
solder  into  the  joint. 

•  The  flush  joint  C  should  have  the  same  care  given  to  it  as  in  the 
case  of  A  and  B,  but  with  this  addition  :  On  the  female  end  a  collar  or 
flange  must  be  laid  off  of  the  desired  width,  as  shown,  to  form  a  chan- 
nel or  receptacle  to  hold  enough  spelter  or  hard  solder  when  melted  to 
fill  the  joint  full. 

The  socket  joint  D  is  prepared  the  same  as  B.  These  sockets  are 
made  or  enlarged  on  a  suitable  mandrel  or  steel  stake  by  hammering 
until  expanded  to  the  proper  size  ;  the  flange  or  collar  is  then  laid  off 
and  the  two  ends  are  fitted  easy,  so  the  male  end  will  go  snugly  into 
the  socket  without  binding,  but  with  sufficient  room  for  the  solder  to 
flow  freely  about  it  and  fill  the  joint  full  and  make  it  solid.  If  the 
foregoing  instructions  are  closely  followed  we  are  now  well  on  with 
the  work  to  be  accomplished.  We  must  now  tin  the  joint  (coat  the 
ends  with  tin),  both  male  and  female,  if  for  the  joints  shown  by  A  and 
B  ;  but  the  male  end  should  be  tinned  only  to  within  %  or  %  inch  of 
the  end.  On  this  spare  space  a  little  plumber's  soil  is  applied  to  pre- 
vent the  solder  flowing  down  too  far  while  the  joint  is  being  made. 
To  clean  the  joints  for  soldering  cover  the  parts  with  a  strong  solu- 
tion of  common  salt  and  water,  heat  them  in  a  glean  coke  fire  to  a 
cherry-red  heat,  and  then  plunge  into  water;  next  scour  with  a  clean 
tow  wad  and  sand  and  water,  and  finally  dry.  The  pipes  are  now 
ready  to  place  in  position  for  the  fire. 


176 


ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING, 


THE  FIRE  POTS. 

Having  secured  a  suitable  position,  the  application  of  the  fire 
is  next  in  order.  In  Fig.  298  is  shown  my  first  fire  pot^  which  subse- 
quently went  through  some  two  or  three  transformations,  but  was  only 
improved  to  a  limited  extent  by  being  cast  in  halves  to  suit  some  pur- 
poses, and  in  three  sections  for  work  of  larger  proportions.  The  first, 
however,  was  a  ring  of  No.  20  sheet  iron,  about  3}^  inches  deep,  and 
perforated  with  holes,  which,  in  the  aggregate,  were  equal  to  or  a  little 
in  excess  of  the  capacity  of  the  supply  pipe.  Around  this  iron  ring  was 
placed  a  hollow  half-round  ring  made  of  copper,  to  receive  and  con- 
fine a  blast  from  a  fan,  or  wind  from  a  bellows.  The  copper  was  in- 
closed as  shown  by  section  in  the  flanges  of  the  iron  ring,  which  was 
closed  down  close  to  the  hollow  half-round  copper  ring  top  and  bot- 
tom. The  supply  pipe  was  flanged  and  riveted  to  the  hollow  copper 
ring  as  shown,  the  supply  pipe  being  about  2  inches  in  diameter.  The 
holes  in  iron  ring  were  burred  toward  the  inside,  projecting  enough  to 
assist  in  holding  a  coat  of  fire  clay  to  protect  the  iron  from  the  action 
of  the  fire  and  keep  the  ring  from  burning.  This  answered  for  a  time, 
and  was  fairly  successful,  but  many  little  difficulties,  and  sometimes 
great  ones,  attended  its  use  The  next  pot.  Fig.  299,  was  constructed 
in  a  similar  way  ;  but  the  iron  ring  was  of  boiler  plate,  about  %  inch 
thick.  This  obviated  the  use  of  a  fire-clay  lining,  and  was  a  partial 
success  until  we  got  a  job  for  which  it  was  not  applicable,  in  conse- 
quence of  its  being  a  complete  ring.  This  compelled  or  suggested 
that  the  pot  should  be  made  in  two  parts,  which  was  done  in  the  best 
way  that  would  answer  the  purpose.  This  one  finally  gave  way  to  one 
of  cast  iron,  a  little  different  in  shape,  but  the  same  in  principle. 

Fig.  300  shows  the  shape  of  the  last  pattern,  which  was  of  cast  iron. 
It  will  be  seen  that  the  cavity  for  the  blast  was  easily  provided  in 
this  form,  and  the  inside  wall  was  made  thick  enough  to  render  the 
lining  unnecessary.  With  this  pot  the  bottom  of  a  joint  could  be  more 
successfully  kept  cool,  so  as  to  check  the  molten  spelter  from  running 
down  too  far,  or  leaking  through  the  joint  at  the  bottom.  For  gen- 
eral purposes  this  was  the  best,  and  we  are  not  aware  that  it  has  ever 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


heen  improved.  Fig.  300  also  shows  a  sectional  view  of  this  pot  cut 
through  the  feed  pipe.  For  large  work  it  is  necessary  to  have  the 
blast  let  in  on  both  sides,  and  sometimes  in  three  directions,  the  pot 
being  then  made  in  sections,  with  a  feed  pipe  in  each  section, 
♦care  being  taken  that  none  of  the  inner  holes  are  opposite  the  inlet 
blast  pipe. 


J^tg.  298. — Fir  si  Form  of  Fire  Pot. 


Fig.  299,  -  Second  Form  of  Fire  Pot. 


Fig.  300. — Cast-iron  Fire  Pot. 


178 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


FIRE  POT  SET  FOR  BRAZING  JOINT. 

We  shall  now  proceed  to  make  use  of  the  fire  pot,  and  describe  the 
process  of  hard  soldering- or  brazing  by  its  aid.  The  pipe  having  been 
placed  into  position,  care  is  taken  that  the  socket  is  level  across  the 
brim,  perhaps  secured  in  the  pit,  or  fastened  to  the  forge  or  other 
suitable  and  convenient  place,  so  that  the  roller  and  chain  overhead 
'  is  handy  if  necessary  to  the  job.  By  referring  to  the  engraving,  Fig. 
301,  the  clamp  to  hold  up  the  pot  is  seen,  which  is  made  of  2^  x  ^ 
inch  iron,  the  arms  being  formed  so  that  they  will  clasp  the  pipe,  and 
are  held  there  by  two  bolts,  as  shown.  There  may  be  space  between 
them,  so  that  they  could  be  used  for  different  sized  pipe.  These 
clamps  are  fastened  up  under  the  bottom  of  the  socket,  then  the  plates 
which  form  the  fire-pot  bottom  are  laid  on,  as  shown  in  Fig.  302.  Now 
spread  a  thin  coat  of  moist  fire  clay  over  the  plates,  and  hollow  it  up 
the  socket  from  i  inch  to  1%  inches.  This  is  to  keep  the  joint  cool  at 
tne  bottom,  so  that  as  the  spelter  melts  it  will  not  run  down  through — 
that  is,  not  lower  than  the  clay.  Now  place  the  fire  pot  in  position, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  303.  This  is  the  most  critical  and  important  feature 
of  the  work.  Care  must  be  taken  to  have  the  pot  level  with  the 
socket  flange  which  is  to  hold  the  solder.  The  pot  would  be  better 
rather  below  than  above,  for  if  the  spelter  be  too  far  out  of  the  pot 
the  blast  will  be  too  low  down,  and  if  it  be  too  low  in  the  pot  there  is 
danger  of  running  out  the  seam  in  the  upper  pipe.  Then,  again,  the 
joint  cannot  be  skimmed  ofE  handily  or  so  well  attended  to.  When 
the  pot  is  in  position  draw  the  clay  around  the  bottom  of  it  on  the 
outside,  so  that  the  flame  will  not  escape  between  the  pot  and  bottom 
plates  ;  then  apply  the  blast  pipe.  If  the  joint  be  less  than  6  or  7 
inches  in  diameter  one  blast  pipe  will  be  enough,  if  the  blast  is  of 
sufficient  strength,  but  if  the  pipe  to  be  joined  be  larger  than  7  or  8 
inches,  then  there  should  be  two  entries,  as  in  Fig.  303.  The  joint  is 
now  filled  with  clean  mixed  spelter  and  borax.  If  the  joint  to  be  made 
is  on  brazed  pipe,  then  spread  a  little  of  the  moist  fire  clay  over  the 
seam  up  to  the  rim  of  the  socket.  Fasten  the  two  screw  clamps, 
Fig.  304,  opposite  each  other  on  the  top  end  of  the  pipe,  and  pass  tke 
chain  through  them  and  hook  in  a  link  or  hook  around  the  chain. 


tSo 


ART  OF  COPFEESMITHrNG. 


On  the  other  end  of  the  chain  a  counterbalance  weig^ht  is  attached,, 
nearly  equal  in  weight  to  the  male  part  of  the  job,  or  upper  piece,  or 
the  chain  may  be  fastened  to  the  hitching  hook  on  the  wall  in  such  a 
A^ray  that  it  will  take  the  weight  of  the  top  piece  of  pipe  while  the 
joint  is  hot. 

We  are  now  ready  for  the  fire.  First,  place  a  little  dead  charcoal 
on  the  wet  clay,  then  put  in  a  layer  of  live  hot  pieces,  and  cover  them 
with  a  few  more  dead  ones,  and  fill  up  with  nice  clean  coke  of  the 
size  of  a  walnut,  covering  the  spelter  some  2  inches  ;  that  is,  pile  the 
coke  up  around  the  pipe  in  a  conical  form  from  the  edge  of  the  pot. 
Then  let  in  the  blast  slowly  and  be  patient  until  the  joint  is  just  red- 
-hot right  through.  While  this  is  going  on  slowly,  touch  down  the  coke 
into  a  compact  mass.  When  the  joint  is  red-hot  take  the  coke  back  a 
little  from  the  pipe  and  dust  a  little  freshly-powdered  borax  on  the 
spelter  ;  by  this  time  the  fire  should  be  m  good  condition.  Draw  the 
coke  up  to  the  pipe  again  and  replenish  the  fire  and  let  in  the  blast  at 
a  brisk  rate,  keeping  a  watchful  eye  on  the  spelter  and  the  blast  slide. 
When  the  spelter  has  run  and  the  joint  is  full  and  well  fluxed,  skim 
%  off  with  a  hot  iron  poker  or  a  rod,  Fig.  305,  flattened  at  the  end, 
and  stop  the  blast ;  take  off  the  pipes  and  lift  the  pot,  then  throw  a 
little  common  salt  on  the  joint  to  kill  the  borax,  which  is  hard  on  a 
new  file.  In  all  cases  the  draft  through  the  pipe  should  be  stopped, 
as  the  cold  air  going  through  tends  to  keep  the  joint  cold,  and  in  the 
larger  pipes  greatly  retards  progress.  The  directions  above  given 
are  intended  especially  tor  learners,  although  old  hands  would  save 
themselves  some  time,  and  often  trouble,  were  they  in  the  majority 
of  cases  to  follow  them  out.  The  practice  in  many  shops  is  to  make 
a  large  fire  on  the  brick  forge,  and  then  take  a  shovel  full  of  hot 
coke  and  fill  the  pot  with  it ;  and  a  failure  is  often  the  result.  But 
practice  will  partly  balance  the  chancCvS,  because  a  man  mus^  make 
himself  acquainted  with  the  ropes  "  (customs)  of  the  shop  in  which 
he  gets  employment,  no  matter  how  absurd  they  are.  Advance  or 
innovation  is  seldom  countenanced  by  workmen  without  trouble.  I 
never  failed  when  the  fire  was  started  with  charcoal  as  above 
directed. 

Soft  Soldering  the  Joint. 
To  make  a  soft  solder  joint,  the  fire  pot  is  placed  in  position  in 
the  same  manner  as  for  brazing,  and  charcoal  is  used  in  preference 
to  coke  entirely.    The  solder  is  run  from  a  suitable  stick  or  from  a 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  20S— Skimming  Rod. 


l82 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


ladle.  Joints  in  small  pipes  may  be  made  with  the  aid  of  a  pair  of 
round  tongs  made  hot.  Joints  in  large  pipes  are  sometimes  more  con- 
veniently made  by  a  pot  of  burning  charcoal,  Fig.  306,  applied  on  the 
inside,  held  by  and  lowered  into  the  pipe  with  the  chain,  care  being 
taken  to  keep  the  lower  end  of  the  joint  cool,  and  sizing  the  male 
part  with  size  made  of  lampblack  or  ivory  black  and  gold  size,  or  any 
other  pigment  that  will  answer  to  prevent  the  solder  from  running 
through  the  joint.  The  fire  pot  for  large  soft  solder  joints  is  made 
to  fit  easily,  and  to  hold  a  sufficient  quantity  of  charcoal  to  do  the 
work  required.  The  bottom  end  of  the  pipe  in  this  case  is  kept  open 
if  possible,  so  as  to  permit  the  draft,  which  in  fhe  other  case  it  is 
necessary  to  stop.  It  will  be  seen  that  the  bottom  of  the  socket  must 
be  kept  cool  enough  to  stop  the  solder  from  running  through  °  or  the 
possibility  of  a  leak  may  be  prevented  by  rubbing  into  the  inside 
some  moist  clay,  if  one  can  get  to  it  to  do  so. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


TEMPLATES. 

Taking  templates  for  bends  is  an  important  feature  as  an  adjunct 
to  the  successful  performance  of  the  operation  of  bending  ;  for  if  the 
template  be  taken  without  a  proper  knowledge,  trouble  often  ensues. 
Many  a  good  piece  of  work  has  been  mutilated  and  valuable  time  con- 
sumed by  ignorance  on  the  part  of  the  maker  of  the  bend,  or  the 
maker  of  the  template,  or  perhaps  it  should  have  been  said,  from  the 
want  of  a  mutual  understanding  between  them,  when  it  happens  that 
the  coppersmith  does  not  take  the  template  himself.  Templates  for 
use  at  the  bending  block  are  usually  made  from  an  iron  rod,  which  is 
stiff  enough  to  retain  its  form  without  fear  of  alteration  while  being 
handled.  It  should  be  formed  so  that  it  will  run  through  the  center 
of  the  pipe  after  it  is  bent.  Templates  for  large  work  are  usually 
made  by  a  pattern  maker,  showing  the  exact  curve  by  cutting  boards, 
and  nailing  the  flanges  to  them  in  the  position  desired.  When  the 
position  the  pipe  is  to  occupy  affords  sufficient  space,  due  regard,  care 
and  attention  should  be  exercised  so  that  the  pipe  when  finished  will 
hang  perpendicular,  and  lie  horizontal,  and  the  bends  occupy  as  near 
as  practicable  the  center  of  the  space  through  which  the  bends  run — 
that  is,  neither  cramped  nor  straggling,  but  filling  the  space  with  a 
flowing  ease.  Having  the  templates  in  proper  shape,  we  will  now 
proceed  to  filling  and  bending. 


FILLING  AND  BENDING. 

All  copper  pipes  and  brass  tubes  should  be  carefully  annealed 
before  bending— that  is,  that  part  which  is  to  be  bent ;  the  other  ought 
to  be  left  hard.  The  part  to  be  softened  should  when  hot  be  a  cherry 
red  in  a  clear  north  light  (not  sunshine);  when  cold  the  part  to  be 
bent  is  filled  with  either  lead  or  rosin,  whichever  is  the  more  suitable 
to  the  particular  bend  it  is  required  to  make.  If  the  desired  bend  is 
short — that  is,  part  of  a  small  circle— lead  is  the  best  for  the  pur- 
pose, new  soft  lead  without  any  foreign  substance  mingled  with  it. 
If,  on  the  other  hand,  an  easy,  flowing  bend  is  desired,  then  rosin 
is  the  best  adapted  to  the  purpose.  If  the  bend  is  to  be  made  at  the 
end  of  a  long  pipe  it  is  not  necessary  to  fill  it  the  whole  length.  We 


AR'l"   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


'^g-  3og.— Bending  Block  Arranged  for  Use  with  Lead  Piece  and  Back  Plate^ 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


usually  roll  up  hard  a  ball  of  waste  or  paper  and  ram  it  in  tight  as  far 
as  it  is  necessary  to  fill  it,  and  then  pour  in  the  lead  or  rosin  as  the 
case  may  be.  Wnen  the  work  is  done  and  the  lead  is  out,  heat  the 
pipe  blood  red  and  the  wadding  will  fall  out,  or  it  may  be  blown  out 
by  applying  the  blast  pipe  to  it.  We  now  proceed  to  the  bending 
block.  The  center  pin  is  used  when  from  the  nature  of  the  work  noth- 
ing will  answer  in  its  place.  It  is  ?dapted  to  a  great  many  forms  of 
bending  v/hich  practice  alone  can  teach  the  learner.  It  will  be  no 
ticed  in  Figf.  308  that  the  back  plate  is  a  piece  of  iron,  usually  about 
inches  thick,  with  two  legs,  the  top  of  the  bending  block  having 
four  holes  an  equal  distance  apart  at  each  corner  to  receive  the  two 
legs  on  any  side,  so  that  with  the  center  pin  the  bending  may  be 
done  on  whichever  side  of  the  block  is  most  convenient  to  the 
operator. 

^^iR-  307  shows  the  block  ready  for  bending.  A.  loop  ;  B,  packing 
C,  lever  ;  D,  pipe  to  be  bent  ;  E,  center  pin,  and  F,  back  plate  in  po- 
sition. The  pipe  is  first  marked  by  laying  the  straight  part  of  the 
template  on  the  pipe  and  running  the  curved  part  along  until  the 
straight  part  at  the  other  end  of  the  template  lies  level  on  the  pipe 
again,  and  marking  with  chalk  where  the  bend  begins  and  terminates 
on  the  pipe.  It  is  then  laid  between  the  pin  and  back  plate,  Fig.  307, 
or  put  through  the  hole  in  the  lead  piece,  as  shown  in  Fig.  309.  Be- 
tween the  plate  and  pipe  is  put  a  soft  piece  of  wood  or  lead,  and  be 
tween  the  pin  and  pipe  a  piece  of  thick  sheet  lead  ;  these  are  to  save 
the  pipe  from  being  marked  by  the  pressure  exerted  against  the  pin 
and  back  plate  in  the  operation  of  bending.  (It  is  always  necessary 
to  have  a  helper  at  the  block  when  bending.)  Now  put  the  loop  A  on 
the  pipe  and  slip  the  lever  C  through  it,  which  may  be  of  iron  or 
wood — in  some  cases  a  wooden  lever  is  the  best,  in  others  an  iron  one. 
Then  put  a  block  of  soft  wood,  B,  between  the  lever  and  pipe.  After 
the  loop  is  on  one  mark  and  the  other  mark  behind  the  pin,  or  just 
inside  the  hole  in  the  lead  piece,  then  apply  the  necessary  pressure  to 
bend  it  to  the  required  curve.  The  rope  loop  A,  Fig.  307,  is  made  of 
one  strand  of  rope  and  formed  like  a  sailor's  grommet.  The  copper 
loop  shown  at  the  side  in  Fig.  309  is  made  of  a  strong  piece  of  sheet 
copper.  Sometimes  the  rope  is  the  best  adapted  to  the  job  in  hand, 
at  other  times  the  copper  loop  ;  experience  must  dictate  this.  With 
the  apparatus  described,  pipes  up  to  5  inches  in  diameter  may  be  bent. 
If  anything  larger  is  needed,  a  hydraulic  press  must  be  provided. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Made  Bends. 

Bends  that  are  not  filled  and  bent  are  made  in  two  ways  princi- 
pally and  in  halves  ;  one  way  the  seams  are  on  the  side,  the  other  the 
seams  are  in  the  throat  and  back.  When  the  seams  are  on  the  side 
the  inner  piece  is  called  the  saddle  and  the  outer  piece  the  back.  To 
make  a  bend  saddle  and  back,  take  two  strips  of  copper,  each  one-half 
the  circumference  of  the  pipe  in  width  ;  let  the  saddle  piece  be  nearly 
the  diameter  of  the  pipe  shorter  than  the  back  piece  ;  file  the  edges  of 
each  piece  up  carefully,  half  round,  so  that  there  are  no  rough  burrs 
or  small  cracks  left  made  by  the  shears  in  cutting  the  strips.  Bend 
each  to  the  working  template.  It  will  be  found  that  the  saddle,  as 
the  edges  are  being  turned  over  on  a  mandrel,  has  a  tendency  to  open 
out  straight ;  this  may  be  obviated  by  bending  the  saddle  piece  a 
third  smaller  than  the  bend  is  required  to  be  when  finished,  as  shown 
in  Fig.  310  ;  that  is,  if  a  mallet  is  used  in  making  the  saddle.  If  the 
saddle  is  made  with  a  hammer  and  drawn  over  on  an  anvil,  the  ham- 
mer will  curl  it  around  enough  to  the  template,  because  the  edges  will 
be  drawn  longer.  When  the  work  is  performed  with  a  mallet  the 
center  is  upset  nearly  as  much  as  the  edges  of  the  strips  are  drawn, 
and  a  more  equalized  thickness  is  obtained  and  therefore  a  better 
bend.  The  back  is  turned  similarly,  under  the  same  conditions,  to 
the  saddle,  and  the  edges  are  puckered  or  wrinkled  at  regular  inter- 
vals and  then  brought  round  to  the  template  by  hollowing  in  the  cen- 
ter of  the  back  in  a  hollowing  block,  Fig.  311,  allowing  the  wrinkles 
to  come  up  regularly  until  the  back  has  curled  round  about  a  third 
less  circle  than  the  template.  Gradually  work  out  the  wrinkles,  first 
a  little  on  one  side  and  then  on  the  other,  over  a  J-stake,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  312,  until  they  are  worked  down  and  the  edges  are  smooth  and 
fit  the  edges  of  the  saddle  half.  Then  thin  the  edges  with  a  double 
paned  hammer  on  the  inside  of  the  two  halves,  saddle  and  back,  and 
hie  the  edges  true  along  them.  They  will  now  be  ready  for  softening 
and  cleaning,  which  is  done  at  one  and  the  same  time  by  covering  the 
parts  with  strong  brine  of  salt  and  water  and  heating  to  a  cherry  red 
(out  of  the  sunshine),  and  quenching  in  a  vessel  or  trough  of  clear 
water,  and  scouring  with  a  clean  tow  wad  and  clean  sand  and  water. 
It  is  now  ready  for  cramping,  as  shown  in  Fig.  310.  When  cramped, 
open  the  cramps  and  bring  the  back  to  it ;  let  one  go  inside  and  one 
outside  ;  pull  them  up  together  in  a  vise  and  wire  them  together,  as 
shown  at  D  in  Fig.  313.    Dress  down  the  cramps  and  hammer  them 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


187 


J7ig,  2^:2.— Half  Bend  Being  Worked 
Over  T- Stake. 


i88 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


189 


close  and  even  on  a  bent  mandrel  and  a  cod  to  fit.  A  cod  is  an  egg- 
shaped  casting,  Fig.  314,  having  a  square  hole  through  its  transverse 
axis,  so  that  it  can  be  keyed  on  the  end  of  a  bent  square  mandrel,  as 
at  D  and  E,  one  end  of  which  is  fastened  in  the  mandrel  block  T,  Fig. 
313.  After  the  cramps  are  hammered  down  smooth,  chatter  the  joint, 
when  it  is  ready  for  charging  with  spelter  and  the  fire. 

Seam  in  Throat  and  Back. 

We  will  now  work  on  the  other  two  halves,  top  and  bottom,  Fig. 
315.  In  working  these  two  halves  into  shape,  the  method  usually 
adopted  by  workmen  is  to  draw  the  throat  down  on  an  anvil,  and  then 
hollow  up  the  back  in  a  block  ;  but  this  is  not  satisfactory  nor  can  a 
real  good  job  be  done  in  this  way,  because  the  throat  is  drawn  thin 
too  much  by  the  hammering  and  there  is  difficulty  in  keeping  the 
work  to  the  template  ;  then,  again,  there  is  an  excess  of  stuff  in  the 
back  ;  yet  this  method  is  still  in  use.  While  engaged  at  this  kind  of 
work  the  writer  discovered  a  very  much  better  way  by  which  the 
throat  is  scarcely  touched  ;  and  when  the  bend  is  finally  shaped^ 
the  throat  is  practically  the  same  thickness  as  the  sheet  from  which 
it  was  cut.  This  method  has  never  been  taught  to  any  one  but  one 
apprentice  boy,  and  it  is  given  to  the  public  now  for  the  first  time  ; 
that  is,  the  formula.  All  bends  are  in  the  abstract  but  sections  of 
a  hollow  cylindrical  ring,  and  a  square  bend  is  one-fourth  of  a  hol- 
low ring,  having  the  straight  part,  if  any,  joined  to  it  or  left  unbent. 
A  little  mathematical  knowledge  is  now  required  to  be  able  to  fully 
understand  the  ground  work  or  the  theoretical  part.  Referring  to 
Fig.  316,  let  the  inner  dotted  diameter  of  the  diagram  be  equal  to 
9,  and  the  diameter  of  pipe  X  equal  6  ;  then  the  outside  diameter 
of  the  diagram  will  be  21.  Now  we  want  to  unroll  the  outside  edge 
of  one-halt  of  this  hollow  ring,  see  Fig.  317,  when  cut  horizontally, 
yy\  and  form  it  into  the  frustrum  of  a  cone,  E.  To  do  this  we  pro- 
ceed thus  :  First  find  the  convex  surface  of  the  whole  ring.  Here 
the  inner  diameter  of  the  ring  is  9,  and  the  diameter  of  the  thick- 
ness or  size  of  pipe  is  6  ;  then  (9  +  6)  x  6  =  15  x  6  =  90,  and  90  x 
(3,1416)'^  =  90  X  9.8696  =  888.2685,  the  convex  surface  of  the  whole 
ring ;   then  5??£^5  ^         ^^^^^  one  half  surface,  and  .444.1342  ^ 

565.488  +  .  Now  add  the  square  of  9,  the  inner  diameter  of  the  bend 
or  ring,  to  this  last  result,  and  565.488  +  81  =  646.488.   Extracting  the 


190 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


191 


square  root  of  this  last  sum  gives  us  25.4262,  the  outside  diameter  of 
the  circular  disk  G,  Fig".  317.  Now  we  want  to  transform  this  flat 
disk  ring  G  into  a  frustum  of  a  cone,  E,  whose  convex  surface  is 
equal  to  the  flat  disk  ring  G.  Practice  has  shown  that  a  frustum  of  a 
cone  formed  of  315°  of  a  circular  ring  is  the  best  pitch  it  can  have  to 
obtain  the  result  required  with  the  least  work.    To  raise  this  disk  to 

a  frustum  of  a  cone  proceed  thus  :  ^5  4262  x  3  _  ^^^292,  the  radius 

5-25 

or  slant  hight  of  the  complete  cone  of  which  the  frustum  E  is  a 
part.  Now  take  for  a  square  bend  one-fourth  of  315''  of  circle  D,  or 
78.75°,  F,  and  add  to  it  whatever  is  required  for  the  straight  part  at 
either  end,  if  any  ;  then  round  up  the  edges  with  a  file  (as  before 
directed),  smooth,  and  it  is  ready  for  forming  up  into  a  half  bend,  pro- 
ceeding as  follows  :  Take  two  pieces  of  copper,  F,  and  curl  them  round^ 
a  third  smaller  in  diameter,  Fig.  318,  in  the  throat  than  they  are  re- 
quired to  be,  the  circular  part  forming  one-fourth  of  the  cone  E,  and 
turn  them  right  and  left  in  opposite  directions,  forming  one-fourth  of 
a  cone  with  the  part  intended  to  form  the  bend.  Now  turn  the 
throat  in  to  begin  the  forming,  A,  Fig.  318  ;  then  turn  the  outer  edge 
up  and  pucker  or  wrinkle  the  edge  at  regular  intervals,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  318  ;  then  take  it  to  the  hollowing  block.  Fig.  311,  and  sink  it 
in  the  hollow  in  the  corner,  letting  the  wrinkles  come  in  regularly  all 
alike,  until  it  is  curled  up  enough.  Fig.  319  ;  now  work  out  the 
wrinkles,  partly  in  the  block  on  the  inside  and  part  on  a  cod  outside^ 
until  the  edge  is  smooth  and  the  two  edges  of  the  halves  fit  each 
other,  Fig.  320.  Then  thin  the  edges,  file  them  true,  cramp  one-half 
and  bring  the  other  to  it  and  wire  ;  dress  dowa  the  cramps  and 
chatter  the  joint  ;  it  is  now  ready  for  charging  with  solder  and  the 
fire. 

Template  Boards. 
The  template  boards  are  a  very  useful  and  convenient  contrivance, 
made  for  the  purpose  of  substituting  the  position  in  which  pipes  are  in- 
tended to  be  coupled  or  occupy  on  an  engine  or  tender  or  in  a  ship's 
hold.  The  single  board  is  shown  in  Fig.  321.  This  board,  or  rather 
two  boards,  are  hinged  together  at  A  and  provided  with  two  wings, 
B,  about  I  inch  wide,  similar  to  that  of  a  pair  of  compasses.  These 
wings  are  fastened  to  the  bottom  leaf  of  the  board,  and  slide  through 
a  loop  which  is  fastened  to  the  side  of  the  other  leaf.  The  loop  is 
provided  with  a  thumb  screw,  which  holds  the  upright  leaf  in  any 
position  the  flanges  of  a  pipe  may  require.    The  double  board,  Fig. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


322,  is  similar  to  the  single  board,  but  has  two  leaves.  This  board  is 
to  take  the  set  of  S  bends,  which  are  set  at  right  angles  to  each  other,, 
as  shown  by  the  pipe  standing  on  the  double  board.  Fig.  322.  Here 
is  an  example  of  its  practical  use.  It  often  happens  in  the  case  of 
steam  pipes,  feed  pipes  and  suction  pipes  that  the  pipe  breaks  off 
close  at  the  back  of  the  flange  A,  Fig.  323,  and  the  flange  is  not  dam- 
aged or  the  pipe  either  further  than  the  flange  being  broken  off,  and 
it  is  necessary  to  put  the  flange  back  on  the  pipe  again  without  piec- 
ing, and  to  have  the  bolt  holes  in  the  exact  position  after  the  pipe  is 
repaired  as  they  were  before  the  pipe  was  broken.  Suppose  the  pipe 
is  broken  at  the  bottom  flange  C,  Fig.  321.  First  match  the  fracture 
and  take  a  template  of  it  on  the  board  by  making  the  board  fit  the 
flanges,  as  shown.  When  they  are  in  their  true  position,  as  they  were 
before  the  pipe  broke,  mark  the  flanges  around  with  a  pencil  on  the 
board  and  all  the  bolt  holes  ;  then  make  a  chisel  mark  on  the  edge  of 
the  flange,  and  at  this  point  mark  it  on  the  board.  Now  all  is  ready 
to  proceed  with  the  repairing.  Anneal  and  clean  the  end  of  the  pipe 
inside  and  outside,  and  make  a  short  thimble  2  inches  long,  D,  Fig. 
326,  of  light  copper  and  fit  it  tight  into  the  end  of  the  pipe,  and  place 
it  so  that  when  the  flange  is  put  on  over  it  the  thimble  will  come 
through  the  flange  E,  Fig.  323,  ^  inch.  Braze  the  ferrule  in  the  pipe 
on  two  sides  inside,  and  run  off  all  the  old  solder  from  the  flange  A, 
and  when  cool  fit  it  to  its  place  again,  being  careful  to  match  the 
fracture  exactly  and  the  holes  and  chisel  mark  on  the  template  board. 
Then  turn  the  end  of  the  ferrule  over  the  flange,  forming  a  rivet, 
and  draw  the  flange  close  to  its  place.  Make  a  collar  of  a  strip  of 
thick  copper,  B,  Fig.  324,  and  scarf  the  ends,  and  after  bending,  C, 
Fig.  325,  put  it  around  the  fracture  F,  Fig.  327,  making  it  wide  enough 
to  cover  the  break  %  inch.  Then  wire  it  on  tight,  and  after  care- 
fully charging  it  with  solder  around  the  top  edge  of  the  collar,  sling 
it  over  the  fire  and  run  the  solder.  When  the  solder  is  set  the  wire 
may  be  taken  off,  while  it  is  yet  hot,  quite  easily.  It  the  instruction 
here  given  be  carefully  followed,  a  strong,  substantial  job  will  always 
result. 


Fig.  322. — Double  Template  Boara. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  327. — Method  of  Mending  Fracture. 


196 


ART   OF  COI'PERSMITHING. 


PATCHING  PIPES. 

Patching  copper  pipes,  like  most  other  branches  of  the  copper- 
smith's art,  requires  perception  first,  and  then  skill,  with  patient,  per- 
severing ingenuity.  Pipes  are  liable  to  so  many  different  kinds  of 
fractures  and  breakages  that  one  can  hardly  prescribe  beforehand  a 
remedy  suitable  for  all  the  many  contingencies  that  may  arise.  We 
will,  therefore,  mention  a  few  occurrences  that  are  happening  fre- 
quently, and  let  them  act  as  stepping  stones  to  the  performance  of 
others  that  may  call  for  the  attention  of  the  operator.  It  often 
happens  that  pipes  burst  at  the  seam  ;  this  may  arise  from  one  of 
several  causes — namely,  from  imperfect  brazing,  such  as  overheat- 
ing while  at  the  fire,  or  not  enough  heat  to  fuse  the  spelter  so  that  it 
firmly  adheres,  or  from  freezing,  continual  jar,  overpressure  from 
force  pump  or  flaws  in  the  metal.  If  a  fracture  should  occur  from 
overheating — that  is,  if  the  part  has  been  burnt — it  is  best  to  cut  it 
out,  as  it  can  never  be  successfully  repaired. 

If  ever  so  good  a  job  be  done  it  is  all  to  no  purpose,  seeing  the 
foundation  of  the  work  has  been  made  rotten,  and  it  is  useless,  ex- 
cept in  cases  of  extreme  emergency,  to  waste  time  or  material  on  it. 
If  the  fracture  arises  from  the  want  of  heat,  or  the  spelter  has  not 
been  run  enough  to  adhere  to  the  joint,  then  open  the  joint  and 
properly  clean  it ;  then  close  it  down  and  give  it  a  coat  of  warm 
borax  and  water,  the  borax  having  been  previously  dissolved  in 
water  ;  jar  this  through  the  joint,  then  charge  it  with  spelter,  either 
inside  or  outside,  as  seems  best.  If  outside,  the  addition  of  a  little 
spelter  inside  will -do  no  harm  if  care  is  taken  to  see  that  it  is  com- 
pletely run.  If  from  freezing,  the  fracture  may  be  anywhere  as  well 
as  at  the  seam  ;  then  the  metal  will  be  parted  as  if  cut  through  with 
a  knife.  If  this  be  the  case,  file  it  down  at  the  fracture,  as  at  C  in  Fig. 
328,  so  that  where  the  split  is  the  edge  is  thin,  making  a  scarf 
similar  to  those  at  the  seam,  and  clean  the  split  carefully  on 
the  edges.  Make  the  patch  a,  thinning  the  edges  down  to 
a  suitable  thickness,  ^,  and  so  that  the  edge  of  the  patch  will 
just  cover  the  outside  edge  of  the  scarf  on  the  pipe  at  c.  When 
the  patch  is  properly  fitted,  anneal  it  with  some  salt  previously  put 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


over  it ;  when  scoured  clean  cover  it  with  a  thin  coat  of  fine  spelter 
and  run  it  smooth  at  the  fire,  throwing  off  all  that  will  leave  it  while 
hot  (this  is  to  answer  the  same  purpose  as  tinning).  Wire  the  patch 
to  the  pipe,  as  shown  in  Fig.  329,  the  wires  being  sufficiently  close  to 
keep  it  from  bagging  when  hot ;  charge  it  with  spelter,  one-half  on 
the  pipe  and  the  other  on  the  patch,  then  make  the  pipe  red  hot  all 
around  at  the  back  of  the  patch  and  along  the  length  of  it,  preventing 
oxidation  of  the  spelter  by  a  supply  of  borax.  When  sufficiently  hot 
gradually  turn  it  over  and  offer  the  spelter  to  a  brisk  fire.  It  should 
run  easily,  and  if  carefully  performed,  a  good,  sound  and  durable  job 
will  be  insured.  The  cleaning  off  of  the  patch  is  next  in  order,  which 
may  be  done  as  tastily  as  the  job  will  admit  of,  to  make  it  look  as  if 
the  work  had  been  performed  by  a  mechanic.  If  a  fracture  is  caused 
by  continual  jar  or  overpressure  by  a  force  pump,  it  will  in  all  proba- 
bility be  like  that  caused  by  freezing,  and  may  be  treated  the  same. 
Flaws  in  the  metal  are  from  many  causes,  and  their  particular  condi- 
tion must  govern  the  measures  to  be  taken  to  remedy  the  defects.  If 
in  large  work  the  flaws  may  be  cut  out  and  a  piece  cramped  in  or 
riveted,  and  then  brazed.  It  often  happens  that  continual  jar  pro- 
duces a  lateral  fracture  at  right  angles  to  the  length  or  around  the 
flange,  immediately  above  the  spelter.  To  repair  this  a  collar  ^,  Fig. 
330,  from  to  %  inch  wide,  is  prepared  of  about  the  same  thickness 
as  the  pipe.  The  pipe  is  cleaned  as  far  up  as  necessary,  then  the  col- 
lar is  prepared  to  suit  and  covered  with  spelter  as  before  directed, 
then  coiled  around  the  pipe  and  wired  close,  as  dXd,  Fig.  331,  the  wire 
being  placed  on  the  upper  edge  of  the  collar  to  form  additional  room 
to  lay  the  solder,  care  being  taken  that  the  collar  fits  tight  up  to  the  pipe. 
If  the  work  is  on  a  small  pipe  it  is  left  open  so  that  the  heat  may 
readily  run  up  through  the  pipe  to  assist  in  the  running  of  the  spelter 
laid  about  the  upper  edge  of  the  collar  d.  If  it  be  a  large  pipe  on 
which  the  work  is  being  performed,  then  the  end  is  stopped  with  a 
piece  of  sheet  iron,  clipped  and  bent  at  the  edges,  which  is  placed 
about  a  foot  up  the  pipe,  instead  of  3  or  4  inches,  as  when  brazing  on 
flanges,  as  previously  described. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


199 


OUTLETS. 


Outlets  are  made  in  two  ways  principally,  and  may  be  soft  sol- 
dered to  their  places,  riveted  and  soft  soldered,  or  brazed  after  bei-ng 
fixed  in  their  positions,  as  the  circumstances  of  the  case  may  require. 
In  many  kinds  of  work  where  outlets  are  necessary  they  are  more 
often  soft  soldered  in  place  than  brazed,  but  in  marine  work  all  are 
brazed,  excepting  when  they  are  worked  out  from  the  main  pipe,  and 
can  be  of  any  size  to  suit  the  requirements  of  the  work  in  hand.  We 
will  suppose  that  in  the  example  before  us  the  pipe,  Fig.  332,  is  6 
inches  in  diameter,  and  an  outlet  3  inches  in  diameter  is  required  at 
the  point  V.  A  short  piece  of  pipe  to  form  the  outlet,  of  the  length 
required,  is  cut  to  fit  the  pipe,  the  outlet  being  drawn  a  little  taper- 
ing at  the  bottom  ;  then  the  edges  are  rounded  up  smooth  and  free 
from  cracks,  and  a  flange  from  %  to  ^  inch  wide  is  laid  off  from  the 
edge,  the  flange  being  next  fitted  close  to  the  main  pipe.  The  hole  in 
the  main  pipe  is  cut  out  about  ^  inch  smaller  than  the  hole  is  required 
to  be  when  finished,  and  a  bur  is  worked  out  from  the  main  pipe,  as 
shown  at  T,  and  made  to  stand  up  %  inch  inside  the  outlet  when  it  is 
placed  on  the  pipe.  Let  the  bur  fit  close  and  snug  on  the  inside  of 
the  outlet,  and  the  outlet  flange  fit  nicely  down  on  the  main  pipe. 
When  the  flange  on  the  outside  is  fitted,  clean  the  place  it  is  to  occupy 
by  the  heating  process,  using  the  salt  and  water  pickle  before  making 
hot  ;  also  clean  the  outlet  the  same  way.  When  this  is  done  spread 
an  even  coat  of  fine  spelter  on  the  flange  of  the  outlet  on  the  inside, 
Fig.  333,  letting  it  extend  as  far  into  the  outlet  as  the  bur  of 
the  main  pipe  is  likely  to  reach.  Now  take  it  to  the  fire,  and  run  the 
solder  smooth  all  around  the  flange,  giving  it  a  coat  of  spelter  all 
around  evenly.  (This  is  to  answer  the  same  purpose  that  tinning 
does  when  making  soft-solder  joints.)  Cool  it  in  clear  water, 
when  the  face  of  the  flange  should  look  like  a  piece  of 
clean  sheet  brass.  Place  it  in  position  and  wire  it  fast 
to  the  main  pipe.  It  may  now  be  brazed  on  the  brick  forge. 
Fig.  334,  by  laying  solder  ^  inch  wide,  more  or  less,  around  the  joint, 
one-half  of  which  should  be  on  the  outlet  flange,  the  other  on  the 


200 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  332. — Manner  of  Attaching  T-Joint  to  Pipe. 


Fig.  333. —  Outlet  with  Flange  Covered 
with  Spelter. 


Fig.  334. — Brick  Forge  Used  in  Brazing. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


20T 


202  ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 

main  pipe  ;  heat  the  main  pipe  slowly  until  it  is  blood  red  in  the 
shade  ;  by  this  time  the  borax  and  spelter  on  the  joint  should  have 
the  appearance  as  if  varnish  was  among  the  spelter,  caused  by  the 
melting  of  the  borax.  Now  offer  the  spelter  to  a  brisk  fire  so  it  will 
flow  with  ease  and  fill  the  joint  right  through  to  the  edge  of  the  bur 
inside.  If,  however,  it  is  inconvenient  to  handle  the  job  by  reason  of 
its  size  and  weight,  or  some  other  contingency,  a  balloon  fire  may  be 
brought  into  service  with  advantage,  and,  as  stated  in  a  previous 
article,  the  fire  may  be  taken  to  the  work,  as  in  Fig.  335.  This  fire 
pot  is  called  a  balloon  fire  pot  from  its  similarity  to  a  balloon.  It  is 
made  of  boiler  iron,  and  usually  from  10  to  12  inches  in  diameter  and 
12  to  14  long,  with  a  conical  point  at  the  bottom,  at  the  end  of  which 
is  an  opening  about  2  inches  in  diameter,  through  which  the  flame  is 
driven  by  the  blast,  which  is  conveyed  from  the  supply  pipe  to  the  pot 
by  means  of  a  hose.  The  cover  is  a  flat  piece  of  heavy  boiler  plate. 
Before  using  this  fire  pot  it  should  be  lined  on  the  inside  with  about 
inch  of  fire  clay.  The  work  is  first  made  ready  for  this  fire  by 
heating  it,  as  near  as  can  practically  be  done,  to  a  red  heat,  so  that 
the  pot  may  not  have  to  supply  too  much  heat  to  the  parts  surround- 
ing the  joint,  but  that  all  its  power  or  intensity  may  be  concentrated 
on  the  point  where  it  is  required  and  most  necessary  ;  when  this 
instruction  has  been  carried  out  the  work  is  ready.  The  pot  having 
previously  been  hung  in  position,  it  is  now  filled  with  live  hot  coke,, 
which  is  made  to  lie  compact  in  the  pot,  when  it  is  then  brought  to 
the  joint  and  a  brisk  blast  thrown  on  the  spelter,  which  will  quickly 
run  if  it  has  been  properly  handled  and  kept  in  condition  with  a  suf- 
ficiency of  borax,  and  the  parts  adjacent  to  the  joint  have  been 
kept  hot. 

Outlets  intended  to  be  soft  soldered  should  be  fitted  with  the 
same  care  as  are  those  for  brazing,  and  may  be  riveted  as  at  V,  in  Fig. 
332,  in  addition  ;  in  some  cases  this  is  quite  necessary  and  should  not 
be  omitted.  To  work  outlets  from  the  main  pipe  we  proceed  as  fol- 
lows :  On  the  pipe.  Fig.  336,  at  the  point  where  the  outlet  is  to  be, 
measure  off  the  distance  equal  to  one-half  the  circumference  of  the 
outlet  required  ;  from  the  two  extremities  of  this  half  circumference, 
and  between  them,  measure  each  way  a  distance  equal  to  the  turn  to 
be  made  for  the  flange  I.  Now  drill  two  small  holes,  and  with  a  file 
round  up  the  edges  of  the  holes  smooth  ;  then  insert  the  bar.  Fig.  337, 
and  with  the  end  jar  or  drive  out  the  collar  while  the  pipe  is  hot ; 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING.  203 

when  it  is  out  as  far  as  necessary,  slit  it  down  between  the  holes  as  at 
A,  Fig.  336,  and  open  it  out  until  completed  as  shown.  Care  must  be 
taken  to  file  the  edges  of  the  outlet  up  round  and  keep  them  that 
way,  so  that  no  rough  burs  are  left  on.  With  ordinary  mechanical 
ability  an  outlet  can  be  worked  out  from  the  main  pipe  long  enough 
to  get  on  a  flange,  I,  Fig.  336,  by  which  to  make  connections  with 
other  pipes. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


EXPANSION  JOINTS. 

Expansion  joints  are  used  in  places  where  a  long  length  of  pipe 
is  necessary  to  conduct  steam  or  hot  water  from  the  boiler  to  its 
destination.  These  joints  are  made  of  any  required  size  to  suit  the 
particular  case,  and  are  a  means  whereby  the  expansion  caused  by 
the  heat  may  be  taken  up,  and  when  the  contraction  takes  place  on 
cooling  the  deficiency  may  be  supplied.  Fig.  338  represents  a  broken 
view  of  an  expansion  joint  in  its  finished  state.  Now  we  desire  the 
easiest  way  to  form  this,  so  that  the  outer  edge  of  the  part  intended 
to  supply  the  elasticity  may  be  about  one-half  the  thickness  of  the 
original  sheet  from  which  it  was  cut,  and  give  the  required  flexibil- 
ity to  the  joint.  First  represent  one-half  the  joint  in  outline,  as  in 
Fig.  339,  b  d c  e  \  divide  the  diameter  c  d  into  six  equal  parts  ;  second, 
divide  the  diameter  b  e  into  four  equal  parts,  and  through  the  points 
/  2Lnd  h  draw  the  lines  f  g  and  h  g,  passing  through  the  points  /  and 
s  ;  then,  with  the  length  of  the  curved  lines,  b  d  and  c  e,  measure  off 
a  distance  equal  to  them  on  the  lines  s  h  and  /  /  extended,  and  with 
the  radius  g  v  and  g  s  describe  the  arcs  x  y  and  z  n.  Now  develop  or 
unfold  the  convex  surface  of  the  frustum.  Fig.  340,  along  the  curved 
line  X making  the  line  x  y  equal  to  the  circumference  of  the  trun- 
cated cone,  Fig.  340.  Draw  lines  x  z  y  n  j  then  the  pattern  x  y  n  z  will, 
when  turned  round,  form  the  envelope  of  the  surface  of  the  trun- 
cated cone,  shown  in  Fig.  340.  Having  the  pattern,  two  pieces  are  to 
be  cut  from  a  sheet  of  copper  of  the  required  thickness.  Thin  the 
edges,  cramp  them  and  make  the  joints  by  brazing  ;  when  this  has 
been  done,  clean  them  oif  and  knock  them  down  ;  then  anneal.  Mark 
off  with  a  gauge  or  racer,  PMg.  341,  the  distance  of  the  straight  part 
in  Fig.  338,  as  further  shown  in  O  M,  Fig.  342,  and  with  a  bullet  ham- 
mer inside,^or  a  hammer  pein  outside,  draw  or  stretch  the  edge  one 
course  out ;  now  turn  the  big  end  up,  and  take  a  course  around  that 
on  the  mandrel.  Fig.  343,  expanding  or  stretching  the  edge  in  each 
course  as  indicated  by  the  dotted  lines  in  Fig.  342,  annealing  at  the 
end  of  each  spell.  When  by  these  stretching  courses  the  outer  edges 
are  of  the  required  size,  turn  it  back  again  and  with  it  hanging  on  the 
mandrel,  take  in  successive  courses  with  a  mallet  until  the  straight 


2o6 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


207 


part  remaining  is  of  the  curve  desired.  True  the  job  up,  smooth  and 
planish  on  a  suitable  mandrel  ;  then  turn  up  the  bottom  edge  all 
around,  as  shown  in  Fig.  338,  and  bring  the  other  side  to  it  and  place 
it  inside  this  edge  and  close  it  down.  Charge  with  spelter  and  braze 
it  round,  then  clean  olf  the  joint  and  braze  on  the  flanges. 

The  foregoing  specimen  may  be  changed  in  form — that  is  to  say, 
instead  of  the  outer  edge  being  put  together  sharp,  we  sometimes 
find  it  more  suitable  to  make  the  edge  round,  as  shown  in  Fig.  344. 
The  process  of  making  this  joint  is  similar  to  the  last  example  up  to 
the  point  of  preparing  for  putting  together,  when  in  this  case  the 
edges  should  be  worked  up  in  an  easy  curve,  so  that  when  they  are 
brought  together  they  would  make  a  half  circle,  and  form  the  out- 
line of  a  body  like  an  oblate  spheroid  or  a  skittle  ball.  The  edges 
are  then  cramped  together,  as  shown,  and  after  the  seam  has  been 
properly  closed  down  on  the  head  and  bent  shank,  as  represented  in 
Fig.  344,  the  work  should  be  slung  over  the  fire  for  brazing,  and  have 
enough  solder  placed  inside  to  flow  around  the  seam.  If  carefully 
charged,  however,  it  may  be  soldered  from  the  outside,  being  slung 
at  the  fire  in  the'same  way. 

Fig.  345  is  similar  also  to  the  first  pattern.  Fig.  338,  but  made 
double.  The  middle  section  in  this  one  is  made  like  the  inside  half 
of  a  cylindrical  ring  or  the  outside  rim  of  a  pulley  wheel.  The  two 
outside  pieces  are  made  nearly  like  the  single  joint  first  described, 
with  the  addition  of  the  circular  or  saddle  piece  between  them,  as 
shown  in  Figs.  345  and  346.  Fig.  345  shows  the  joint  put  together  ; 
Fig.  346  shows  them  separated  for  closer  inspection.  This  is  called  a 
double  joint,  and  will  be  readily  understood  from  the  engraving. 
Fig.  347  is  another  form  of  expansion  joint,  which  is  frequently  used 
where  there  is  plenty  of  room  for  it,  and  is  a  good  device  for  the 
purpose  for  which  it  is  intended.  The  engraving  fully  explains 
Itself. 


208 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


209 


TEE  PIECES. 

Tee  pieces  are  made  in  several  ways,  but  there  are  only  two  in 
common  use  as  a  general  rule.  These  are,  when  the  three  passages 
are  all  of  one  size,  as  in  Fig.  348,  and  when  the  inlet  is  equal  to  the 
two  outlets  or  the  reverse,  as  in  Figs.  349  and  350.  The  first  is 
formed  by  making  two  saddle  pieces,  a  cap  or  bottom  piece,  and 
gusset,  A,  as  in  Fig.  348.  This  piece  of  work  would  look  better 
without  a  gusset,  as  in  Fig.  351,  which  can  be  done  by  leaving  the 
corners  on  the  two  saddle  pieces  and  squaring  them  up  before 
putting  together  ;  but  there  is  the  advantage  of  economy  in  favor 
of  the  gusset,  as  there  is  always  a  good  supply  of  pieces  available  in 
all  shops.  The  tee  in  Fig.  349  is  formed  of  two  taper  pieces,  the  large 
end  being  equal  to  one-half  the  circumference  of  the  inlet  at  one  end 
and  half  of  the  circumference  of  the  outlet  at  the  other.  This  can  be 
made  with  or  without  a  gusset,  as  desired.  The  large  end  or  stem 
should  be  kept  the  same  thickness  or  diameter  right  through  to  the 
bottom  or  cap,  and  the  other  two  taper  off  as  if  two  frustums  of 
cones  were  joined  together  at  the  base,  the  small  ends  having  a  short 
distance  of  them  parallel  from  the  end  for  a  flange  to  fit  on,  to  make 
connections  with  other  pipes.  I  have  made  small  tees  from  one  piece 
cut  from  the  sheet,  as  in  Fig.  352,  by  working  down  the  throats  into 
shape  with  a  razing  hammer  and  forming  the  two  outlets  by  bending 
the  pattern  in  the  middle  and  bringing  the  two  edges  together.  The 
stem  is  thus  in  two  halves,  while  the  part  forming  the  two  outlets  is 
one  continuous  piece,  having  the  seam  in  the  two  throats,  as  in  Fig. 
352.  There  is  no  reason  why  a  large  one  could  not  be  made  the  same 
way  with  economy  in  labor,  but  I  never  made  one  nor  saw  one  made. 


2IO 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


211 


THREE-WAY  PIECES. 

Three-way  pieces,  Fig.  353,  are  made  by  putting  together  three 
saddle  pieces  and  a  gusset,  the  outlet  pipes  being  an  equal  distance 
apart  and  usually  of  one  size.  They  sometimes  require  one  outlet 
equal  to  the  other  two  in  area.  If  the  two  inlets  are  made  to  approach 
nearer  to  each  other  than  in  the  three-way  piece,  and  the  outlet  equal 
in  area  to  these  two,  as  in  Fig.  354,  it  is  called  abritch  piece,  and  is 
made  of  pieces  similar  to  those  described  for  Fig.  349,  excepting  the 
crotch  piece  at  the  bend  or  turn  is  cut  a  third  through  on  each  side,  as 
shown,  and  a  gusset,  A,  cramped  in  and  brazed;  then  the  other  two  side 
pieces  are  brought  together  and  wired,  the  seam  dressed  down  and 
then  brazed. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  354. — Britch-Piece  with  Large 
Inlet. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


213 


CROSS,   OR   FOUR-WAY,  PIECES. 

Small  four-way  pieces  are  made  similar  to  three-way  by  joining 
four  saddle  pieces  together  with  a  gusset,  unless  some  special  purpose 
calls  for  another  method.  In  large  work  two  ways  are  adopted. 
The  first  by  cutting  out  two  pieces  as  shown  in  Fig.  355, 
and  razing  down  the  throats  and  making  the  four  joints  by  cramp- 
ing the  pieces  together  in  the  four  throats  or  saddles,  and  brazing. 
The  other  by  making  it  in  two  halves  with  the  seam  on  the  side  and 
cramping  together,  as  shown  in  Fig.  356.  To  do  this  with  the  least 
amount  of  labor,  we  must  reduce  the  surface  of  one-half  of  the  piece 
to  a  flat  sheet  of  metal,  as  in  Fig.  357,  proceeding  as  follows  :  From 
the  point  A,  Fig.  358,  with  the  radius  A  B,  describe  the  arc  B  C  ;  divide 
the  arc  B  C  into  three  equal  parts  ;  through  the  two  points  B  and  D 
draw  the  line  G  E  ;  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  figure  draw  E  H,  simi- 
lar to  G  E;  then  B  I  H  G  will  represent  a  frustum  of  a  cone.  Now 
find  the  convex  surface  of  the  frustum  which  is  thus  represented 
Let  B  I  H  G,  Fig.  358,  be  a  frustum  of  a  cone,  and  let  I  B  =  3 
and  H  I  =  4,  and  H  G  =  5.  Then  the  convex  surface  of  the  frus- 
tum =  3  +  5  X  3-1416  X  4  _  2656,  and  converting  this  into  circular 
2 

or  disk  inches  we  have  j^-^^B^  _  5 .    Now  add  the  square  of  the  di- 

0.7854 

ameter  B  I  3^  =  9;  then  64  4-  9  =  73,  the  convex  surface  of  B  I  H  G  in 
circular  inches  ;  extracting  the  square  root  we  have  ^  73  =  8.544,  or  a 
disk  of  sheet  metal  8  544  inches  in  diameter,  as  in  Fig.  357,  Draw  the 
line  through  the  center  O,  and  from  the  points  P  and  G  draw  the  lines 
N  P  M  and  S  G  V  at  right  angles  with  the  diameter  P  G,  and  measure 
off  from  the  points  P  and  G  one-fourth  of  the  circumference  of  I  B, 
Fig.  358,  making  the  lines  M  N  and  V  S  join  R  M  and  U  N,  which  are 
tangent  to  the  circle.  Then  the  pattern  V  S  M  N,  Fig.  357,  will  equal 
approximately  the  convex  surface  of  E,  Fig.  357. 

Having  cut  two  pieces  of  copper  like  the  pattern  in  Fig.  357,  they 
are  ready  for  forming  after  the  edges  have  been  rounded  smooth. 
Begin  this  process  by  wrinkling  or  puckering,  as  in  Fig.  359,  then  with 
the  razing  hammer.  Fig.  360,  raze  the  wrinkles  down  on  a  suitable 


214 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig,  357. — Method  of  Obtaining  Pattern  for 
One-Half  of  Four-  Way  Piece  E. 


Fig.  358. — Diagra?n  for  Obtaining  Pattern 
for  One-Half  of  Four-  Way  Piece. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  361. — Mandrel  for  Working  Out  Four-  Way  Pieces. 


2l6 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


mandrel,  Fig.  361  (secured  in  the  mandrel  block  or  bench  strap),  to 
form  the  frustum,  and  when  it  is  of  a  sufficient  length  turn  the  two 
ends  to  form  the  cross  way. 

Practice  and  experience  only  can  supply  the  place  of  an  instructor 
when  making  this  bend.  Care  must  be  taken  during  the  work  not  to 
press  it  too  severely  or  work  the  metal  when  it  is  too  hard,  but  anneal 
it  at  the  close  of  every  course  ;  when  properly  formed,  the  edges  can 
be  trimmed  off  and  thinned  from  the  inside.  Now  take  the  crown  of 
the  cone,  about  ^  inch  from  the  edge,  round  up  the  edge  free  from 
rags  and  chisel  marks,  and  then  turn  out  the  edge  level  with  and 
forming  a  part  of  the  outlet,  thus  extending  its  length  that  much 
further.  It  is  next  covered  with  salt  and  water,  made  blood  red  and 
quenched  in  clean  water,  scoured  and  dried.  The  halves,  after  one 
has  been  cramped,  are  now  brought  together  and  wired  ;  the  seam 
dressed  down  and  brazed,  the  work  being  slung  in  the  traveler  chain 
from  overhead  if  necessary.  When  the  seams  are  cleaned  ofE  and  the 
work  again  scoured  clean,  it  is  put  in  shape  and  final  symmetry  on  a 
cod.  The  seam  is  knocked  down  and  the  piece  planished  over  to 
smooth  and  harden  it.  The  mandrel.  Fig.  361,  is  a  piece  of  cast  iron 
or  steel  some  6  inches  in  diameter  having  a  2-inch  square  hole  in  the 
center,  so  that  it  will  slide  on  a  square  bar  ;  the  four  sides  are  planed, 
turned  or  cast  from  a  pattern  so  they  are  segments  of  four  circles 
from  9  to  20  inches  in  diameter,  to  suit  the  different  sizes  of  pipes  or 
cylinders.  The  mandrel  is  about  3  feet  in  length.  It  is  necessary  to 
have  several  of  these  mandrels  of  different  sizes  and  lengths  to  suit 
different  work. 


I 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING.  217 


THE  SADDLE  FIRE. 

Bends  made  with  the  seams  on  the  side  are  brazed  on  the  brick 
forge  ;  but  those  with  the  seam  in  the  throat  and  back  must  have  a 
fire  for  the  purpose,  and  made  narrow  enough  to  suit  the  curve  of  the 
throat  seam.  This  fire  is  very  useful  for  a  great  many  special  pur- 
poses besides  the  one  under  consideration.  It  is  made  of  pieces  of 
3^-inch  boiler  iron,  Fig.  362,  with  four  legs  made  of  angle  iron  ;  the 
hight  of  the  fire  being  the  same  as  the  brick  forge.  This  fire  is  about 
6  inches  wide,  18  inches  at  the  bottom  where  the  blast  pipe  lies,  and 
24  inches  at  the  top,  and  10  or  12  inches  deep.  It  is  coated  with  an 
inch  of  fire  clay,  and  left  to  dry  hard  ;  it  is  then  fit  for  use.  It  could 
be  lined  with  fire  tiles  inside,  made  to  fit,  which  would  be  better,  if 
they  are  obtainable  ;  if  not,  then  fire  clay  must  be  used.  The  blast 
pipe.  Fig.  363,  at  the  bottom  of  the  forge,  is  perforated  with  holes, 
whose  aggregate  area  is  equal  to  about  twice  the  area  of  the  convey- 
ing blast  pipes,  because  when  necessary  the  wind  is  let  in  at  both 
ends.  There  should  be  two  fires  of  this  kind,  one  hollowed  out,  as  it 
were,  to  fit  the  pipe  nearly,  Fig.  362  ;  the  other  straight  across.  Fig. 
364,  as  they  are  often  very  convenient. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


219 


MARINE  WORK. 

In  the  preceding  chapter  we  have  been  speaking  of  small  bends  ot 
from  4  to  5  inches  inside  diameter,  which  is  the  largest  size  usually 
made  in  locomotive  works  or  railway  shops.  Marine  work  for  war 
ships  or  ocean  steamers  is  very  much  larger,  requiring  heavier  tools 
and  appliances,  and  we  shall  now  describe  some  of  the  means  em- 
ployed in  the  working  up  or  making  of  pipes  and  bends  from  6  to  15, 
inches  in  diameter  and  upward.  By  a  careful  study  of  the  engravings, 
Figs.  365  and  366,  which  we  here  present,  *  the  reader  can  get  a  better 
idea  of  what  marine  work  is  than  by  the  best  written  description  with 
out  their  aid.  These  large  pipes  and  bends  here  represented  in  Fig. 
365,  judging  by  the  bench  vise,  the  jaws  of  which  usually  measure 
from  5  to  6  inches  wide,  are  about  15  inches  in  diameter,  and,  as  will 
be  noticed,  the  bends  are  made  saddle  and  back,  which  is  the  usual 
way  of  making  tnem  when  the  bend  required  is  of  a  reasonably  long 
curve.  A  specimen  may  be  seen  in  the  middle  of  the  two  pipes,  one 
of  which  is  slung  over  a  fire,  the  back  being  slung  to  the  traveler  by 
suitable  hooks  and  in  position  for  annealing.  The  large  pipe  slung 
on  the  right-hand  side  of  this  back  has  just  had  a  flange  brazed  on  ; 
the  one  on  the  left  hand,  it  will  be  seen,  is  in  position,  and 
has  a  fire  pot  placed  around  it,  for  brazing  a  round  joint,  or 
joining  this  bend  to  another  pipe.  Carefully  notice  the  standards 
upon  which  the  bottom  or  floor  of  the  fire  pot  is  arranged.  The  pot 
appears  to  have  two  inlets  for  the  blast,  one  on  each  side  of  the  pot, 
so  that  the  fire  may  be  regulated  in  such  a  manner  that  all  the  solder 
will  be  run  at  the  same  moment  of  time,  and  the  joint  skimmed  off 
all  round  instantly  when  ready.  A  little  at  one  side  of  this  pipe  is  an 
open  hearth  under  a  chimney,  where  the  coke  is  prepared  and  made 
hot  for  the  fire  pot,  a  pan  of  coke  being  at  hand.  The  apparatus  oppo- 
site the  hearth  is  for  straightening  and  rounding  up  the  pipe  after  the 
seam  is  made.    The  bend,  which  is  slung  and  balanced  at  the  vise 

*  These  engravings  are  from  photographic  views  of  the  interior  of  the  coppersmiths' 
shop  of  Messrs.  Maudsley,  Sons  &  Field,  one  of  the  oldest  and  largest  marine  engine 
builders  of  London,  England,  and  kindly  furnished  by  them  especially  for  this  work. 


2  20 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


bench,  is  in  position  for  truing  up  and  planishing  on  a  cod.  The  next 
object  is  a  wooden  template  for  a  pipe  with  two  short  bends  in  it,  and 
showing  the  position  of  the  flanges  ;  further  on  are  two  breech  pieces, 
which  appear  to  have  their  seams  recently  soldered  or  brazed  to- 
gether, the  seams  being  in  the  saddles  or  throats — that  is,  they  are 
made  in  halves  and  from  a  sheet  about  a  quarter  inch  thick.  The 
several  other  pipes  lying  around  are  of  minor  interest,  but  the  view, 
as  a  whole,  gives  a  clear  idea  to  the  learner  and  those  interested  of 
what  is  necessary  for  a  well-appointed  shop.  In  the  other  plate,  Fig. 
366,  the  first  object  on  the  left  hand  is  an  old  bending  apparatus, 
which  no  doubt  is  still  found  to  be  very  handy.  The  next  is  a  large 
bend,  apparently  about  20  inches  in  diameter.  The  main  object  is  a 
hydraulic  bending  table,  the  whole  machine  being  clearly  shown,  with 
a  pipe  about  8  inches  in  diameter  in  position  for  bending,  and  having 
one  bend  already  completed.  Carefully  examine  this  machine. 
The  hydraulic  cylinder  and  piston  are  placed  in  an  immov- 
able postion  at  the  table,  and  before  it  in  a  groove  in  the 
table  is  a  large  screw,  to  which  is  attached  the  handle  on 
the  right  hand  of  the  table.  The  two  upright  pillars  on  which 
the  concave  blocks  revolve  are  drawn  together  or  spread  apart  by  a  left 
and  right  thread,  the  link  placed  over  the  pillars  being  to  regulate 
and  hold  the  pillars  securely  to  the  place  required.  These  concave 
blocks  revolve  to  suit  the  condition  of  the  pipe  as  the  power  of  the 
piston  is  exerted  to  bend  the  pipe  between  them.  The  workman's 
chalk  mark  is  plainly  visible,  showing  where  the  bending  is  to  be,  or 
the  power  applied  to  effect  the  bending.  The  link  which  helps  to 
hold  the  pillars  in  position  is  provided  with  a  screw  and  sliding  block 
so  that  it  may  be  lengthened  or  shortened  to  suit  the  distance  the 
pillars  are  required  to  stand  apart.  Another  and  longer  link  is  lying 
on  the  floor  to  be  used  for  longer  bends.  The  next  prominent  object 
is  a  pipe  with  a  double  bend.  These  bends  have  been  soldered  together 
just  where  the  workman's  file  is  lying,  and  the  joint  has  been  made 
with  a  round  fire  such  as  we  have  described  in  a  previous  chapter. 
Behind  this  pipe  is  the  back  of  a  bend  in  course  of  construction.  The 
block  on  which  it  is  being  worked  is  cubical  and  made  of  cast  iron 
or  some  hard  wood.  The  holes  or  hollows  are  plainly  shown  in  the 
block,  and  each  face  has  a  different  size  and  hollow  to  suit  different 
sized  pipe.  Notice '  the  travelers  at  each  mandrel  loop  along  the 
bench  and  at  other  parts  of  the  shop  which  show  how  the  work  may 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


be  slung-  and  manipulated  with  as  much  ease  as  possible.  These  views 
were  taken  from  opposite  corners  of  the  shop,  so  that  all  the  most 
important  appliances  could  be  clearly  shown.  The  other  objects  are 
of  minor  interest.*  As  I  have  said  before,  these  larger  bends  can  be 
and  are  made  saddle  and  back,  according  to  the  capacity  of  the  work- 
man or  the  desire  of  the  employer  ;  but  much  better  results  may  be 
obtained  by  competent  workmen  when  the  seam  is  in  the  throat  and 
back,  especially  if  the  inside  curve  of  the  bend  is  short  or  of  small 
diameter. 


*  These  photographs  have  only  been  recently  obtained.  When  the  articles  were  written 
they  were  entirely  from  memory,  and  after  20  years'  absence  from  a  coppersmith's  shop  I 
notice  by  them  there  has  been  no  material  advance. 


224 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


IVIAKING  LARGE  BENDS. 


The  large  bends,  Fig.  367,  cannot  be  brought  together  after  being 
formed  by  a  vise  ;  it  is  therefore  necessary  to  use  a  chain  and  lugs,  A, 
and  pull  the  halves  together  with  a  bolt.  Neither  can  they  be  dragged 
along  on  the  fire,  owing  to  their  weight,  which  would  crush  the  coke 
and  break  down  the  fire,  besides  exposing  the  joint  to  probable  injury 
while  hot.  They  must  be  slung  as  shown  in  the  illustration,  so  that 
the  joint  will  lie  level  when  on  the  side,  and  so  that  it  can  be  brought 
to  the  fire  continuously  and  with  ease.  When  the  slinging  chains  are 
properly  adjusted,  the  sling  is  hooked  to  the  traveler  chain  overhead, 
and  the  work  may  then  be  handled  over  the  fire  with  ease.  In  the 
case  of  the  joints  being  in  the  throat  and  back,  as  in  Fig.  368,  the 
halves  are  brought  together  with  the  chain  and  lugs  as  before 
directed,  and  then  wired  ;  then  two  screw  clamps  N  and  U  are 
fastened  at  each  end,  through  which  chain  M  is  passed  loosely.  A 
hook  and  pulley,  O,  are  now  applied,  the  loose  chain  running  through 
the  clamps  over  the  pulley  wheel  and  the  hook  hooked  to  the  traveler 
chain  P  from  overhead,  as  before.  By  this  means  the  throat  seam 
may  be  easily  handled,  as  also  the  back  one,  reversing  the  screw 
clamps  to  suit,  as  in  Fig.  369,  and  guiding  the  work  with  the  tongs  K. 
A  good  fire  is  to  be  kindled  in  the  forge.  Fig.  362,  with  a  supply  of 
coke  in  the  pans  or  hoppers  on  each  side.  The  back  of  the  bend  is 
usually  brazed  first  on  the  brick  forge,  and  then  the  throat  on  the 
portable  forge,  Fig.  362.  It  sometimes  happens  that  a  job  cannot  be 
got  at  even  with  this  narrow  forge  fire,  or  there  is  no  convenience  by 
which  it  can  be  used  to  advantage.  When  this  is  the  case  we  carry 
the  fire  to  the  job,  instead  of  the  job  to  the  fire,  and  charge  the  joint 
with  spelter  outside,  carrying  the  fire  inside  with  a  pot  having  a 
hose  pipe  attached  to  it,  Fig.  370,  and  slinging  the  fire  on  the  traveler 
chain  from  overhead.  The  fire  pot  for  this  operation  is  made  similar 
to  those  used  for  the  joining  of  pipes,  but  with  a  bottom  fixed  to  it. 
The  work  to  be  done  governs  the  size  and  shape  ;  it  may  need  to  be 
of  an  oval  shape  in  some  cases. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


^^S'  ZT^'— Portable  Fire  Pot  to  go  Inside  of  Bends. 


ART  OF  COPPEKSMITHING. 


« 

227 


DOUBLE  BENDS. 

In  large  work  we  have  only  noticed  so  far  single  bends.  We  now 
come  to  double  ones,  which  are,  as  occasion  requires,  twisted  from  a 
flat  S-bend  to  any  ?ngle  required.  When  bends  require  to  be  twisted 
they  are  made  single  and  then  joined  and  brazed  together,  as  in  Fig. 
371.  The  operation  is  the  same  in  principle  as  that  described  for 
joining  straight  pipe,  the  difference  being  only  in  the  size  of  the  fire 
pot  and  the  manner  of  application,  which  is  shown  in  Fig.  372.  Four 
upright  standards,  with  holes  in  them,  are  placed  in  position  near  the 
pipes,  and  the  bottom  plates  laid  on  the  two  rods,  which  are  put 
through  the  holes  in  the  standards  at  the  proper  hight.  The  bottom 
bend  is  held  in  position  so  that  the  socket  is  level  and  securely 
fastened  there,  the  top  bend  held  in  position  and  balanced  with  the 
traveler  chain  and  then  lowered  into  the  socket.  The  pot  is  then 
placed  around  the  joint  as  before  directed,  Fig.  373,  which  may  be  in 
two  or  three  sections,  see  Fig.  374,  so  the  blast  can  be  applied  by  two 
or  three  supply  pipes,  as  is  most  convenient  or  may  be  desired  to  suit 
the  work  in  hand.  After  the  seams  of  each  bend  have  been  dressed 
off  clean  and  are  in  proper  snape,  they  are  cleaned  with  a  pickle  made 
of  vitriol  and  water,  about  one  part  vitriol  and  two  parts  water,  which 
may  be  varied  to  suit  the  requirements  of  the  job.  When  it  is 
thoroughly  scoured  and  all  the  acid  washed  off  in  clean  water  and 
dried,  it  is  usual  to  rub  some  dry  Spanish  brown  all  over,  so  that  in 
hammering  the  hammer  marks  can  be  more  plainly  seen.  It  is  then 
taken  to  the  mandrel  block,  where  it  is  planished  true  and  into  its 
final  shape  on  a  cod,  and  hardened  by  closing  the  grain  of  the  metal 
with  a  hammer  at  the  same  time  that  it  is  planished. 


228 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING 


Fig.  yj'z.— Bends  at  Right  Angles  Arrangea 
for  Brazing, 


Fig.  374. —  View  of  Fire  Pot. 


230 


ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


BRi^ZING  ON  FLANGES. 

The  brazing  on  of  flanges,  large  and  small,  has  caused  as  much  or 
more  objectionable  languag-e  to  be  uttered  than  almost  any  other 
operation  usually  performed  in  a  coppersmith's  shop,  owing  princi- 
pally to  a  want  of  a  little  knowledge,  or  the  possession  of  an  inquiring 
mind ;  sometimes,  too,  owing  to  the  greed  of  a  manufacturer 
who  will  palm  off  a  flange  for  pure  copper  that  will  not  bear 
enough  heat  to  run  the  spelter.  This  entails  much  trouble  and 
annoyance  to  the  workman,  and  not  a  little  loss  to  themselves,, 
because  the  extra  time  spent  and  liability  of  failure  more  than 
balances  the  advantage  sought  to  be  gained  by  the  use  of  spurious 
metal.  In  speaking  thus  I  do  not  wish  it  understood  that  pure  cop- 
per is  the  best  material  from  which  flanges  can  be  made,  for  the 
best  flanges  the  writer  ever  operated  on  were  cast  from  a  mixture 
composed  of  i  pound  of  old  copper  and  i  pound  of  brass  tubes,  which 
reduced  to  its  elements  would  make  the  flange  about  16  parts 
copper  and  3  of  zinc ;  this  makes  the  flange  stiff  and  close 
grained,  and  much  better  for  general  purposes  than  pure  copper. 
Having  a  good  flange  provided,  the  next  thing  is  to  have  it  properly 
prepared  while  at  the  lathe  ;  the  only  thing,  however,  that  concerns, 
the  coppersmith  is  the  hole  into  which  the  pipe  is  to  fit.  This  should 
be  tapered  ys  inch  so  that  it  will  drive  on  tight,  the  end  of  the 
pipe  being  reduced  that  much.  On  the  face  side  an  eighth  counter- 
sink should  extend  into  the  hole  one-fourth  of  its  thickness.  When 
the  flange  is  eased  on  the  end  of  the  pipe  and  the  pipe  is  through  a 
short  distance,  drive  it  back  into  the  countersink,  turning  it  over  a 
little  toward  the  face  of  the  flange.  It  is  now  ready  so  far  for  braz- 
ing, but  before  taking  it  to  the  fire,  if  the  pipe  is  small,  it  is  sufficient 
lo  stop  the  oppv^site  end  of  the  pipe  with  a  ball  of  waste  or  a  wooden 
plug,  so  that  the  heat  cannot  run  up  through  the  pipe.  Around  the 
countersink  of  the  pipe,  which  is  through  the  flange,  rub  some  soft  fire 
clay,  and  a  little  up  the  seam  if  it  be  brazed  pipe.  It  is  now  ready 
for  charging  and  the  fire.  Flanges  for  large  pipes  are  bored  the  same 
as  small  ones,  but  it  is  necessary  to  take  a  little  more  precaution  in 
preparing  tor  the  fire,  so  that  the  heat  does  not  ran  up  through  the 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


231 


pipe.  In  this  case  take  a  disk  of  light  sheet  iron  about  3  or  4  inches 
larger  than  the  diameter  of  the  pipe  and  clip  this  disk  all  around  with 
the  shears  at  intervals  of  about  i  inch  ;  now  turn  the  edges  up,  form- 
ing a  kind  of  pan,  the  places  clipped  acting  as  a  spring.  This  pan  is 
■crowded  into  the  end  of  the  pipe  about  4  or  5  inches  from  the  end,  and 
some  soft  fire  clay  is  plastered  in  the  cracks  of  the  pan  all  around  the 
edge,  and  also  around  the  edge  of  the  countersink  of  the  flange.  The 
edge  of  the  fire  clay  should  be  an  inch  or  two  above  fhe  flange,  or  above 
the  thickness  of  the  flange,  and  so  that  no  flame  goes  up  the  pipe. 
See  that  the  joint  of  the  pipe  is  well  covered  with  clay  a  little  beyond 
the  top  of  the  flange  where  the  solder  is  to  lay.  Sling  the  pipe  so 
that  it  will  hang  level,  and  it  is  ready  for  charging  and  the  fire.  If 
the  flanges  are  of  doubtful  metal,  try  their  quality  before  putting  on 
the  pipe  by  trying  to  run  a  small  portion  of  the  spelcer  on  the  flange 
first.  If  it  is  suspected  that  the  spelter  will  not  run  on  the  flange,  it 
should  be  rerun — that  is,  remade — to  do  which  take  i  pound  of  the 
spelter  and  melt  it  and  add  i  ounce  of  zinc  while  it  is  in  a  state 
of  fusion,  and  when  cool  enough  to  just  char  a  hazel  stick,  place 
it  in  an  iron  mortar  previously  made  warm,  and  break  it  up  again. 
Then  try  it  on  the  flange.  If  it  still  takes  too  much  heat,  or 
more  than  it  is  thought  the  flange  will  bear,  lower  it  again  with  zinc 
until  it  runs  at  a  low  enough  temperature  to  preserve  the  flange  and 
there  will  be  no  darger  of  failure.  Never  use  what  is  called  black 
solder  or  spelter  ;  it  is  only  used  by  those  wanting  a  sufflcient  knowl- 
edge concerning  spelters  suitable  for  their  work  ;  neither  be  tempted 
to  add  tin  un^er  any  circumstances. 


232 


ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


SHORT  BENDS. 

Another  bend  of  a  special  kind  is  sometimes  needed  to  be  worked" 
on  the  end  of  pipes  when  it  is  required  to  get  the  shortest  possible 
turn  that  can  be  made  so  that  a  flange  will  set  right  down  close  on  the 
straight  part  of  the  pipe,  as  ia  Fig.  375.  To  turn  this  bend  we  proceed 
as  follows  :  First  measure  along  the  pipe  a  length  equal  to  one-half  the 
circumference  of  the  pipe  on  which  it  is  required  to  make  the  turn, 
Fig.  376,,  At  the  point  B  make  a  small  hole,  and  with  a  round  file 
round  up  the  edge  all  around  the  hole  carefully.  Now  take  the  steel 
bar,  Fig.  377,  having  the  point  bent  as  shown,  make  the  pipe  red  hot 
about  the  hole,  insert  the  point  of  the  steel  bar  and  jar  it  out  with  a 
hammer,  as  shown  in  Fig.  378,  until  there  is  a  burr  or  turn,  C,  as  high  as 
the  flange  is  thick  on  the  long  part.  Then  cut  the  pipe  from  the  hole 
to  the  end,  as  in  Fig.  379,  and  run  out  the  seam  at  the  back  if  it  is  a 
brazed  pipe.  If  it  is  drawn  pipe  make  a  hole  at  the  back  or  opposite 
side  (without  burring),  and  cut  the  pipe  down  as  far  as  this  hole  and. 
open  it  out,  as  in  Fig.  380.  Flatten  out  the  flaps.  Then  with  the  radius 
of  a  circle  whose  circumference  would  be  equal  to  one-half  of  the  cir- 
cumference of  the  pipe  describe  the  curve  shown  in  Fig.  380,  E,  and. 
from  the  line  where  the  burr  or  bend  turns  take  78.750  of  the  circle  (as 
shown  in  a  former  chapter),  of  which  the  section  X  is  a  part.  Now 
thin  the  back  edges  of  the  flaps  of  the  turn,  Fig.  381,  and  work  them 
over  on  a  cod  or  some  suitable  bullet  stake,  and  if  large  enough  cramp  it;, 
then  close  the  seam,  and  finish  by  brazing.  Fig,  382.  This  is  a  method 
of  making  a  short  turn  which  it  is  often  necessary  to  adopt  in  steam- 
boat work,  and  when  it  happens  that  workmen  do  not  know  how  to 
make  this  turn  a  casting  has  to  take  its  place  at  a  much  greater  cost. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fi^.  382.—  The  Finished  Betta. 


234 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


AIR  PIPES. 

Air  pipes  are  used  by  ocean  and  other  steamers  for  conveying 
fresh  air  from  the  upper  to  the  lower  decks  and  are  somewhat  similar 
in  form  to  the  bowl  of  a  tobacco  pipe,  Fig.  383.  They  are  frequently 
made  of  copper,  the  mouth  being  of  any  size  required  to  catch  and 
convey  a  sufficient  quantity  of  air  to  the  lower  decks  and  cabins. 
When  made  of  copper,  the  easiest  and  most  economical  way  is  to  make 
the  bend  of  three  pieces  or  sections,  as  shown  in  Fig.  384.  After  the 
pattern  has  been  cut  out,  the  pieces,  b  and  Fig.  385,  are  thinned  at 
each  end  and  cramped  ;  they  are  then  bent,  as  in  Fig.  386,  and  held  to- 
gether with  dogs,  ^or /,  Fi^-s.  387  and  388,  at  each  side,  as  shown. 

Now  wrap  a  chain  around  the  section,  as  in  Fig.  386,  and  sling  it 
to  the  traveler  so  that  it  hangs  level.  Take  a  little  warm  borax  and 
water,  the  borax  having  been  previously  dissolved,  and  jar  the  joint 
so  that  some  of  the  liquid  may  penetrate  through  and  all  around  and 
under  the  cramps  in  the  joint,  then  charge  it,  laying  the  spelter  on 
first  with  a  short  reed.  Move  the  spelter  over  the  edge  of  each 
cramp  in  a  zigzag  form,  then  slowly  dry  it ;  when  dry,  slowly  heat  it, 
first  on  one  side  and  then  on  the  other,  until  the  part  is  red  hot  and 
the  spelter  is  all  down  on  the  joint ;  next  bring  it  over  a  brisk  flame 
and  run  down  the  seam.  The  directions  given  may  be  followed  for 
the  other  two  sections.  When  the  seams  are  cleaned  off  and  knocked 
down  and  the  sections  annealed,  open  them  and  round  them  up  on 
the  mandrel  block  for  the  next  step,  which  will  be  to  draw  the  edges 
in  at  the  back  part  extending  to  one-fourth  of  the  circumference 
from  the  center  of  the  back  each  way.  This  is  done  on  a  suitable 
head.  Fig.  390,  secured  on  a  bent  bar  fastened  in  the  mandrel 
block  B,  the  part  drawn  in  forming  part  of  the  regular  curve 
and  some  2  or  3  inches  wide.  When  this  is  done  sufficiently, 
pare  the  edges  true,  and  see  that  the  two  parts  which  are  to  be 
joined  together  are  exactly  the  same  size  in  diameter,  or  as 
near  so  as  possible  ;  then  thin  them  with  a  hammer,  which  may 
need  to  be  done  with  the  pane  if  the  copper  is  heavy,  or  with  the  face 
if  it  is  light.  When  the  edges  are  thinned  and  the  ragged  edges,  if  any, 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  Section  of  Air  Pipe  Ready 

for  Brazing  Seam. 


Fig.  389. — Chain  Hook. 


ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fi^.  29^.— Man  are  I  on  Trestle  Frame. 


238 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


filed  smooth  cramp  one  side,  making  the  cramps  which  will  be  on  the 
inside  one-half  longer  than  those  on  the  outside.  Bring  them  together 
and  secure  with  the  lugs  and  chain,  as  in  Fig.  384,  the  hooks  Fig.  389, 
being  made  to  hook  on  the  ends  of  the  pipe.  When  the  seam  is  closed 
down  true  make  a  suitable  cradle  with  wire  and  sling  it,  and  proceed 
to  charge  the  cramps,  following  them  in  their  zigzag  path  so  that  the 
spelter  covers  the  edges  of  the  cramps,  not  forgetting  to  jar  through 
it  previously  a  solution  of  borax.  Dry  the  spelter  and  heat  the  joint 
slowly.  When  hot  enough  show  it  to  a  medium  brisk  fire  and  run  the 
joint  around.  After  the  circular  joints  are  made,  knocked  down  and 
annealed,  scour  it  clean  with  vitriol  and  water  and  rinse  off  clean  and 
dry  it.  When  dry  rub  it  over  with  Spanish  brown.  Now  shape  it  up 
true  and  planish  on  the  double-faced  head.  Fig.  390,  at  the  mandrel 
block,  finishing  the  small  end  on  the  mandrel  C.  The  endless  rope 
and  small  pulley  D  has  a  weight  hung  to  it  sufficiently  heavy  to  coun- 
terbalance the  weight  at  the  large  end.  The  chain  and  pulley  E  and 
sling  hooked  to  the  traveler  chain  assists  the  operator  by  balancing 
the  work  and  giving  him  power  to  manipulate  it  with  ease. 

The  straight  conductor  pipe  to  convey  the  air  to  its  destination 
is  usually  of  light  copper  and  made  in  lengths  of  from  6  to  8  feet 
long.  Straight  steam  pipes  may  be  made  from  material  from  ^ 
to  X  iiich  thick  and  from  6  to  8  feet  long.  To  planish  these  pipes 
after  being  made  and  properly  cleaned  a  mandrel  is  placed  on  a  tres- 
tle frame.  Fig.  391,  which  supports  the  bar  at  both  ends,  or  one  end 
may  be  secured  in  the  mandrel  block  and  a  screw  crutch,  A,  Fig.  392, 
placed  tinder  it  at  the  other  end  to  support  it.  The  mandrel  should 
run  through  the  entire  length  of  the  pipe,  or  as  nearly  so  as  is  prac- 
ticable. 

The  planishing  should  begin  in  the  middle  and  finish  at  the  ends; 
that  is,  about  2  feet  at  a  time,  beginning  with  the  first  2  feet  in  the 
middle  of  the  pipe,  then  finishing  up  at  the  joint  after  the  planishing 
of  the  whole  length  has  previously  been  completed.  The  planishing 
is  done  with  a  bright  double-faced  hammer,  No.  3,  Fig.  393,  of  suflfi- 
cient  weight,  a  number  of  which  form  the  necessary  equipments  of  a 
shop,  and  vary  in  size  and  weight  from  8  ounces  to  3  pounds  or  more, 
having  square  and  round,  flat  and  bullet  faces,  others  having  two 
panes  for  razing  down,  and  bullet  faces  for  hollowing  up.  These 
hammers  are  carefully  looked  after,  and  kept  bright  by  being  cleaned 
on  a  buff-board  before  being  put  away  in  the  rack,  and  greasing  with 


ART   OF  COPPERSMrJ  HING. 


239- 


Fig.  393. — Hammer  Rack. 


24°  ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 

pure  goose  grease  to  protect  them  from  the  various  gases  and  acid 
vapors  which  always  occupy  a  coppersmith's  shop  more  or  less.  The 
hammers  shown  in  the  rack,  Fig.  393,  are  No.  i  round  face  and  pane; 
No.  2  round  and  square  face;  No.  3  two  round  faces;  No.  4  cross 
paned  ;  No.  5  two  flat  paned  ;  No.  6  bullet  or  hollowing. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


241 


HOLLOW  SPHERES. 

The  forming  of  spheres  or  balls  has  taxed  the  ingenuity  of  the 
youthful  metal  worker,  it  is  presumed,  in  all  ages  ;  the  coppersmiths 
of  my  youth  have,  and  those  at  present  engaged  in  the  craft  will  con- 
tinue an  ineffectual  wrestle  with  this  problem  until  there  is  a  more 
universal  application  of  the  system  of  industrial  or  technical  educa- 
tion so  happily  inaugurated  now  in  some  of  the  large  cities.  How 
strange  ic  is  that  our  public  educators  scarcely  ever  seem  to  venture 
from  the  beaten  paths  of  school  book  routine  for  the  purpose  of 
assisting  the  student  to  grasp  a  subject  or  shed  a  little  light  by 
which  a  pupil  can  mark  out  his  course  prior  to  an  apprenticeship 
The  properties  of  circles,  squares,  cubes  and  spheres  are  all  Greek  to 
the  majority  of  boys  sent  into  a  shop  ostensibly  to  learn  a  trade, 
and  particularly  does  this  happen  in  country  places,  as  in  the  writer's 
case,  where  among  all  the  men  he  was  brought  in  contact  with  it  is 
not  remembered  that  one  could  measure  the  superficial  area  or  solid 
contents  of  a  single  vessel  they  were  working  at  in  a  mathematical 
way  ;  it  seemed  one  continual  grope  in  the  dark,  guessing,  or  work- 
ing by  rule  of  thumb.  It  is  hoped  that  this  chapter  may  be  so  clear 
that  any  one  who  will  exert  an  effort  to  make  himself  familiar  with 
any  ordinary  work  on  mensuration  will  be  able  to  form  a  hollow 
sphere  of  any  metal  ductile  enough  to  bear  the  different  operations 
necessary  to  its  formation.  The  greatest  stumbling  block  has  been 
a  want  of  knowledge  as  to  the  exact  size  of  patterns  necessary  to 
cover  the  surface.  It  is  a  well  known  property  to  those  versed  in 
geometry  that  the  convex  surface  of  a  sphere  is  equal  to  its  circum- 
scribed cylinder,  or  the  surface  of  a  sphere  is  equal  to  four  times  its 
generating  circle  ;  that  is,  the  surface  of  a  sphere  is  equal  in  area  to 
that  of  four  disks  whose  diameter  is  the  same  as  that  of  the  sphere. 
Then  the  surface  of  one-half  a  sphere  would  be  equal  to  two  disks 
the  same  diameter  as  the  given  sphere.  Now,  as  hollow  spheres,  or 
balls,  are  usually  raised  up  in  halves,  therefore  to  make  a  ball  we 
must  first  start  with  two  disks  of  metal,  the  surface  of  each  being 
equal  in  area  to  the  sum  of  two  others  whose  diameters  are  the  same 


242 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


243 


as  the  diameter  of  the  hollow  sphere  required  ;  that  is,  the  two  taken 
together  shall  equal  four  times  the  surface  of  a  circle  whose  diam- 
eter is  equal  to  the  diameter  of  the  ball  required. 

Let  it  be  required  to  construct  a  hollow  sphere,  or  ball,  9  inches  in 
diameter  ;  then  9x9x2  =  162,  the  number  of  circular  inches 
in  the  convex  surface  of  a  sphere  9  inches  in  diameter  ;  therefore 
4/9x9x2  =  12.7471,  the  diameter  of  a  disk  of  metal  required  to 
make  one-half  a  hollow  sphere,  or  ball,  9  inches  in  diameter,  no  allow- 
ance being  made  for  the  thickness  of  metal  or  for  joining  together. 
Let  us  add  these  now,  and  suppose  the  metal  to  be  }i  inch  thick,  and 
that  the  joint  requires  ^  inch  lap,  which  will  be  a  quarter  on  each 
half  ;  then  the  area  of  this  ^-inch  band  for  lap  or  joint  will  equal 
9.125  X  3.1416  X  .5  =  I4-3335-  Converting  this  into  circular  inches  we 
14  3335 

have    — ~  ^^^5"    Dividing  this  by   2  and  giving  one-half  to 
18.25 

each  disk  we  have  — ^ —  =  9-125.  Therefore,  the  whole  value  of  one 
disk  for  one-half  of  a  9-inch  hollow  sphere  ys  inch  thick,  and  %  inch 


and  extracting  the  square  roof  of  this  last  result,  we  have  13.2459,  the 
size  of  disk  required. 

We  will  now  proceed  to  raise  these  halves  to  the  spherical  form. 
First,  divide  the  diameter  A  D,  Fig.  394,  into  four  parts,  as  shown  by 
A  B  C  D,  and  with  the  radius  B  O  describe  the  circle  B  C,  which  will 
be  about  inches  in  diameter.  Wrinkle  the  disks  in  spaces  of 
about  2  inches  apart  at  the  outer  edge,  forming  a  pan,  as  sho^vn  in 
Fig.  384  ;  now  take  it  to  the  floor  block,  Fig.  397,  and  on  a  suitable 
bullet  head  in  the  shank  S  take  in  the  first  course,  draw  out  the 
wrinkles,  working  first  on  one  side  of  each  one,  as  in  Fig.  396,  and 
then  on  the  other  until  they  are  all  worked  out  and  are  smoothed 
down.  Now  smooth  it  some  with  the  face  of  a  hammer.  This  will 
conclude  the  first  spell.  Anneal  it  by  heating  to  a  cherry  red,  cool  in 
water  and  wrinkle  again,  making  the  wrinkles  which  were  the  lower 
ones  in  the  first  spell  the  upper  ones  in  the  second,  and  continue  the 
process  with  the  razing  hammer  until  the  last  course.  This  is  brought 
up  to  the  size  without  wrinkling.  It  should  be  a  little  under  size» 
because  smoothing  and  planishing  will  expand  or  draw  it  some,  there- 


for lap  will  be  (9.125)2  X  2  + 


244 


ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  Section  Shozving  How  Half 

Ball  is  Formed. 


Fig.  399. — Finished  Half  Ball. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


■fore  it  may  be  about  8^  inches  in  diameter  when  finishing-  the  last 
course  before  smoothing.  We  now  are  supposed  to  have  two  pans  as 
shown  at  R  in  Fig-.  398,  that  are  about  6  inches  at  the  bottom,  and 
4^2  inches  at  the  side.  These  are  to  be  taken  to~the  block  and  on  a 
suitable  bullet  head,  S,  or  bullet  stake,  T,  Fig.  397,  break  down  the  lag 
or  corner  of  each  pan  with  a  mallet.  As  this  is  being  done,  the  curve 
will  be  bulged  out,  part  in  the  bottom  and  part  in  the  side,  as  indi- 
cated by  the  dotted  lines  in  Fig.  398.  It  is  now  easy  to  smooth  them 
down  true  to  the  size  required,  after  which  anneal,  clean  and  planish, 
as  in  Fig.  399.  They  are  then  ready  to  put  together  and  finish  the 
sphere. 

The  directions  in  the  foregoing  are  for  metallic  balls  raised  or 
formed  of  two  solid  pieces  or  halves — that  is,  with  the  middle  seam 
only.  It  often  happens,  however,  that  time  is  an  object  in  the  con- 
struction, as  also  sheet  metal  of  a  sufficient  size  or  convenient  shape 
from  which  to  make  a  ball  in  two  solid  parts.  When  this  is  the  case, 
it  may  be  made  in  this  way  :  Let  it  be  required  to  construct  a  ball  10 
inches  in  diameter;  then  proceed  as  follows  to  get  out  the  pattern 
for  one  of  the  halves  :  In  Fig.  400  on  the  line  A  B  describe  the  semi- 
circle  B  C  A,  10  inches  in  diameter,  and  with  the  radius  A  E  divide 
the  circumference  of  the  semicircle  into  three  equal  parts,  as  shown 
by  B  H,  H  G,  G  A.  Divide  the  versed  sine  C  D  into  two  equal  parts, 
and  through  the  center  of  it  draw  the  line  Y  X  and  similar  lines  V  Y 
and  X  O  parallel  to  B  H,  H  G  and  G  A;  then  the  convex  surface  of  a 
truncated  cone.  Fig.  401,  represented  by  the  lines  V  Y,  Y  X,  X  O, 
Fig.  400,  will  equal  approximately  the  convex  surface  of  one-half  of 
a  sphere,  which  is  represented  by  the  semicircle  B  C  A.  Extend 
V  Y  and  O  X  to  K  ;  then  with  K  as  center  describe  the  arc  O  N  S 
and  with  the  distance  V  O  space  o£E  three  spaces  on  the  arc  O  N  S,  as 
shown.  With  the  radius  K  X  describe  the  arc  X  M  Z  and  join  S  K  ; 
then  O  N  S  X  M  Z  will  be  the  pattern  for  the  frustum  of  a  cone.  Fig. 
401.  File  and  round  up  the  edges  to  rid  them  of  all  rough  burrs, 
cracks  or  flaws,  and  thin  the  edges  O  X  and  Z  S.  Cramp  one  side  ; 
then  double  up  the  pattern,  as  shown  in  Yi^.  402,  and  braze  the  seam 
as  directed  for  section  of  air  pipe.  Clean  off  the  seam  and  knock  it 
down — that  is,  hammer  it  down  so  that  the  joint  is  the  same  thick- 
ness as  :he  rest  of  the  sheet;  then  round  it  up  true,  producing  the 
sides  of  an  inverted  pan  without  a  bottom,  shown  in  Fig.  401.  The 
next  step  is  to  prepare  the  pan  for  the  bottom,    i.  Commence  to  form 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


401. — Pattern  Formed  with  Seam  Brazed 
and  Lag  Raised. 


Fig.  403. — Raising  Down  the  Lag  for 
Bottom. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


247 


the  lag  by  a  course  around  the  small  end  about  ^  inch  wide  on  the 
end  of  a  mandrel  of  suitable  size  ;  then  anneal  on  the  brick  forge, 
cool  and  take  to  the  floor  block,  and  on  a  bottom  stake.  Fig.  403,  finish 
razing  down  the  lag  for  the  bottom.  Next  cut  out  the  bottom,  which 
may  be  the  exact  size  of  the  hole  or  a  trifle  larger,  and  thin  the  edges 
both  of  the  bottom  and  the  part  forming  the  lag,  after  which 
cramp  the  bottom  with  a  chisel  if  it  is  of  heavy  copper,  and  with 
the  snips  or  shears  if  of  light.  Open  the  cramps  far  enough  so  that 
the  bottom  may  be  put  in  from  the  under  side,  or  inside,  each  alter- 
nate cramp  going  through  the  hole  ;  that  is,  one  inside  and  one  out- 
side. Place  it  on  the  bottom  stake  and  smooth  down  the  seam  and 
popple  "  the  bottom  by  a  few  blows  in  the  center,  then  spring  it  in 
and  out  a  few  times  —  this  will  loosen  the  joint  and  answer  the  same 
purpose  as  chattering  straight  seams,  to  give  room  for  the  borax  and 
spelter  ;  it  is  now  ready  for  the  fire.  Charge  the  seam  with  spelter 
as  previously  described,  following  the  cramps  in  their  zigzag  path 
around  it ;  then  take  it  to  the  fire,  and  when  the  borax  and  solder  are 
thoroughly  dry  roll  the  sides  of  the  pan  around  on  the  fire,  using  a 
pair  of  duck-bill  tongs  for  the  purpose,  until  the  fire  can  just  be  seen 
through  it.  Show  the  seam  to  the  fire,  turning  the  pan  while  the 
spelter  is  running  ;  then  cool,  clean  off  the  joint  and  knock  it  down 
smooth,  and  afterward  anneal  it.  Take  the  pan  to  a  suitable  bullet 
head  and  raze  a  course  at  the  brim,  enough  to  make  it  about  9^ 
inches  in  diameter  ;  then  break  the  lag  down,  round  up  smooth  and 
planish.  To  one  who  is  apt  and  quick  at  perception  the  outlines 
suggested  above  will  give  the  cue  for  many  similar  pieces  of  work 
which  offer  themselves  occasionally  to  the  practical  coppersmith  or 
sheet-metal  worker,  who  is  called  on  sometimes  for  something  out  of 
the  common  run  of  every  day  work.  One  of  the  uses  to  which  an 
article  of  this  kind  may  be  and  often  is  put  to  when  suitably  perfo- 
rated is  a  strainer  to  keep  out  rubbish  that  might  interfere  with  the 
working  of  bilge  pumps  on  ships,  or  it  may  be  used  wherever  it  is  nec- 
essary to  have  a  strainer  with  capacity  largely  in  excess  of  the  pipe 
leading  to  the  pump. 


248 


ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


BRAZING   SHEET  BRASS- 

In  both  marine  and  locomotive  work  there  is  sometimes  consider-^ 
able  ornamental  brass  work  of  various  kinds,  such  as  edging  for 
splashers,  coping,  hand  rails,  domes  and  a  variety  of  moldings,  and  I 
have  often  witnessed  a  good  deal  of  annoyance  and  disappointment 
among  workmen  (myself  included)  on  account  of  their  want  of  knowl- 
edge in  relation  to  the  law  of  expansion  and  contraction  while 
attempting  to  braze  joints  necessary  to  the  completion  of  their  work. 
Then,  again,  the  many  d  fferent  kinds  and  qualities  of  brass  made 
and  sold  often  lead  men  into  trouble,  partly  through  the  deception  of 
the  dealer  or  manufacturer,  but  mainly  through  their  own  ignorance 
of  the  nature  of  the  material  they  are  expected  to  work  up. 

There  are  so  many  mixtures  called  brass  that  unless  the 
workman  is  quite  familiar  with  them,  or  on  the  alert  and 
wary,  he  may  encounter  a  failure  when  least  expected.  After 
much  unpleasant  experience  in  this  direction  it  has  been 
learned  that  when  working  on  sheet  brass  of  an  unknown  quality 
which  it  is  required  to  join  and  solder  together,  before  the  work 
is  begun,  it  is  best  to  take  a  small  corner  and  try  its  merits  with  such 
spelter  as  may  be  at  hand  ;  if  it  can  be  made  to  run  with  ease  on  the 
scrap  being  tested,  there  will  be  no  further  trouble,  but  if  it  will  not 
run  on  it,  then  it  is  desirable  and  necessary  that  some  should  be  pro- 
cured that  will.  After  the  work  is  cut  out  there  are  usually  some 
scraps  that  cannot  be  used  for  anything  to  advantage  ;  take  a  portion 
of  these  scraps,  if  there  are  any  (if  not,  take  a  part  of  the  sheet)  say  i 
pound,  and  having  provided  a  small  crucible,  melt  the  scraps  with 
some  borax,  and  in  the  mean  time  have  i  ounce  of  zinc  melted  in  a 
ladle  ;  when  they  are  both  in  a  liquid  state,  mix  in  the  zinc  and  stir 
With  a  stick,  then  pour  it  out,  and  when  cool  enough  to  only  char  a 
hazel  rod,  break  it  up  in  an  iron  mortar  and  try  its  merits  on  another 
scrap  of  the  brass.  If  this  new  composition,  now  to  be  used  as  spelter, 
IS  found  to  require  too  much  heat,  melt  it  again  and  add  a 
little  more  zinc,  so  it  will  run  with  safety  to  the  work  in  hard — 
that  is,  without  fear  of  burning  the  parts  adjacent  to  the  joint 


ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


249 


Fig.  \oi,— Brazing  Seam  in  Sheet  Brass. 


250 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


or  having  the  cramps  fall  off  from  excessive  heat.  Brass  made  to 
have  a  silvery  hue  when  polished  is  always  difficult  to  work,  and 
requires  the  utmost  vigilance  while  being  brazed,  as  well  as  in  the 
preparation  for  that  operation.  In  some  instances  it  is  necessary  to 
add  a  little  silver  to  the  spelter  in  addition  to  the  zinc,  which  will 
reduce  the  heat  necessary  to  run  it,  and  add  to  its  malleability  ;  the 
quantity  required,  however,  will  necessarily  depend  on  the  kind  of 
brass,  and  must  be  left  to  the  scrutiny  of  the  operator.  Having 
procured  a  spelter  suited  to  the  brass,  we  will  suppose  the  work 
requires  a  strip  of  brass  12  inches  wide  to  be  joiiied  and  brazed 
together  ;  then  trim  the  edges  of  both  ends  and  thin  them,  and  cramp 
one.  The  next  step  is  to  prepare  a  frame  from  a  piece  of  i^-inch  boiler 
plate.  Fig-  404,  in  the  shape  of  a  horseshoe,  some  4  or  5  inches  wide, 
and  about  15  inches  long,  also  two  screw  clamps  C,  and  two  pieces  of 
bar  iron  D,  strong  enough  to  hold  the  brass  fast  on  the  horseshoe 
plate  when  the  screw  clamps  are  applied.  Bend  the  sheet  in  the  form 
shown,  so  that  when  the  joint  is  brought  together  within  the  horse- 
shoe frame  it  will  hang  in  a  curve  or  bag  between  the  legs  of  the 
frame.  Now  bring  them  together,  open  the  cramps  and  let  them 
receive  the  end  of  the  other  piece,  and  screw  it  fast  to  the  plate  with 
the  clamps.  Put  an  iron  rod  through  the  screw  clamps  and  sling  it  to  the 
chain.  Remove  it  to  an  anvil  and  close  down  the  joints,  care  being 
taken  that  all  the  spring  is  taken  out  of  the  parts  about  the  joint 
before  going  to  the  fire.  When  at  the  forge,  jar  some  liquid  borax 
through  the  joint,  charge  it,  and  slicgit  so  that  it  will  balance  and 
hang  level ;  then  with  a  slow  fire  heat  the  parts  within  the  frame 
gradually  until  the  solder  is  all  down  ;  then  with  a  gentle  fire  the 
joint  may  be  easily  and  successfully  run  down. 

The  strongest  spelter  used  by  coppersmiths  for  heavy  work  is 
composed  of  three  parts  copper  to  one  of  zinc.  Another  is  made  of 
eight  parts  of  old  tubes  or  Bristol  brass  and  one  of  zinc.  Another, 
for  copper  of  medium  strength,  is  composed  of  16  parts  copper  and 
12  of  zinc  ;  for  the  better  kinds  of  brass,  16  ounces  of  copper  and  the 
same  amount  of  zinc.  It  may  be  well  to  notice  here  some  of  the 
many  alloys  called  brass.  The  following  have  been  collected  in  a 
promiscuous  way,  as  opportunity  has  offered,  and  are  presented  for  the 
benefit  of  those  interested  : 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Bristol  brass  

Muntz  metal  

Pale  yellow  brass. 
Muntz  sheathing. , 
Mosaic  gold  


Brass,  reddish  yellow 

Princess  metal  

Rolled  brass  ..... 

English  brass  

<Jerm4n  brass  

Watchmakers'  brass . . 

Pinchbeck  

Tombec  

Mannheim  gold  

Button  brass  (white)  . 
Bath  metal  


Copper. 

Zinc. 

Ounces. 

Ounces. 

16 

6 

16 

10# 

16 

12 

16 

16 

16 

17 

Copper. 

Zinc. 

Parts. 

Parts. 

86.6 

11  4 

88.0 

17.0 

79.6 

20.4 

74.6 

25.4 

66.2 

33.8 

49.5 

50.5 

88.0 

11.0 

44.5 

15.5 

70.0 

30.0 

30.4 

69.6 

32.0 

9.0 

Cymbal  metal,  80  copper,  20  tin. 

Gilding  bronze,  82.3  copper,  17  5  zinc,  0,24  tin.  0.02  lead. 
Button  metal,  32  brass,  4  zinc,  2  tin. 
Tutenag,  45.7  copper,  36.9  zinc,  17  4  nickel. 

Chinese  white  copper,  40.4  copper,  25.4  zinc,  31.6  nickel,  2  6  iron. 

It  will  be  seen  that  the  workman  who  is  ignorant  of  the  many- 
alloys  commonly  called  brass,  and  incapable  of  forming  an  opinion  as  to 
their  quality  or  the  spelter  necessary  for  the  particular  kind  he  may- 
have  to  work  np,  can  very  easily  and  innocently  fall  into  an  error 
and  be  placed  in  a  very  unpleasant  position.  I  have  found  but  little 
charity  shown  toward  workingmen,  or  by  them,  when  innocent  fail- 
ures of  this  kind  have  happened,  and  I  have  had  my  share.  It  is 
hoped  the  tables  above  given  maybe  the  means  of  assisting  the  young 
workmen,  and  old  ones  who  are  willing  to  learn,  to  avoid  the  chances 
of  failure  likely  to  occur  in  the  working  of  any  of  the  poorer  kinds 
of  brass,  if  called  on  to  do  so. 


252  ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


LOCOMOTIVE  BRASS  WORK. 

Among  the  various  kinds  of  metals  and  their  alloys  which  have 
been  brought  into  use  and  wrought  from  the  sheet  into  many  fo  ms 
of  ornamental  work,  there  is  none  excepting  the  two  precious  metals 
that  has  or  can  give  to  the  zealous  workman  as  great  delight  and 
satisfaction  for  the  labor  bestowed  as  sheet  brass  ;  it  matters  little 
what  hue  or  tint  may  be  the  most  prominent,  there  is  always  a  pleas- 
ant satisfaction  after  the  work  is  finished,  cleaned  and  polished. 
Especially  is  this  the  case  when  the  work  is  finished  complete  from 
the  hammer.  The  thought  ever  present  in  the  mind  of  the  careful 
workman,  that  the  result  of  his  efforts  is  destined  to  be  brought  under 
the  scrutiny  of  the  public  eye,  as  well  as  of  his  fellow  workmen,  is 
an  incentive  to  greater  caution  and  care  on  his  part,  that  the  work 
shall  be  carefully  and  well  performed.  While  there  is  work  executed 
in  copper  which  requires  much  greater  skill  on  the  average  than  is 
called  for  ordinarily  ia  working  sheet  brass,  it  is  almost  always  from 
the  nature  of  things  carried  out  of  sight  and  covered  up.  Most  work- 
men like  to  work  brass  after  they  have  become  familiar  with  its 
properties,  and  have  learned  by  experience  the  best  method  of  treat- 
ing it  during  the  operation  of  shaping  to  the  form  desired.  In  this 
article,  closing  the  description  of  a  coppersmith's  shop  adapted  to 
marine  and  locomotive  work,  I  will  describe  three  pieces  of  orna- 
mental brass  work  for  a  locomotive,  at  the  same  time  showing  the 
necessary  appliances  and  their  application,  so  that  the  young  me- 
chanic may,  by  using  ordinary  intelligence,  successfully  perform  that 
which  has  been  and  is  now  under  some  conditions  regarded  as  a  lead- 
ing cr  first-class  piece  of  work  in  the  coppersmith's  art,  and  which 
will  serve  as  a  guide  to  others  of  a  similar  nature,  alth  ough  they  may  be 
required  for  an  entirely  different  purpose.  The  best  brass — that  is, 
the  safest  for  the  beginner — is  Bristol  brass  (see  tables  in  a  previous 
chapter),  which,  being  composed  of  8  parts  of  copper  to  3  of  zinc,  leaves 
a  good  margin  for  the  spelter,  which  is  of  equal  parts  copper  and 
zinc,  and  will  run  readily  on  brass  as  low  as  6  of  copper  and  3  of  zinc 
with  safety. 


ART  OF  COPPEKSMITHING.  253 

Now,  it  would  seem  there  are  fashions  in  dress  even  among  loco- 
motives, for  at  one  time  they  were  covered  with  ornamental  brass 
work  and  were  very  attractive.  Among  these  ornaments  was  a  chim- 
ney to  take  steam  from  the  safety  valve,  while  another  was  a  cover  for 
the  regulator  dome.  These  were  of  many  different  kinds  and  shapes, 
and  as  the  three  I  shall  now  consider  will  answer  as  a  guide  to  all  the 
rest,  I  will  try  to  give  the  details  as  fully  as  possible,  so  that  they  may 
be  easily  understood  by  those  interested  and  seeking  .such  information. 
Let  Fig.  405  represent  the  covering  for  a  safety  valve,  and  also  to 
answer  the  purpose  of  a  chimney  to  convey  the  steam  escaping  from 
the  valve,  above  the  head  of  the  engineer.  These  chimneys  were  about 
2  feet  6  inches  in  hight,  and  some  i8  inches  in  diameter  at  the  base, 
the  foot  of  which  was  razed  out  and  given  an  easy  graceful  flow  over 
the  boiler.  The  chimney  proper,  as  will  be  seen  hy  a  d  c  oi  Fig.  406, 
was  made  in  three  pieces,  which  with  the  base,  or  foot  ^,  made  four. 
Thus  the  cover  at  th^  outset  was  in  four  pieces,  three  of  which,  a  d 
were  brazed  together  after  being  formed  into  shape,  and  the  fourth, 
which  was  the  base  or  foot,  slipped  into  a  bead  formed  on  the  lower 
end  of  the  chimney  and  soft-soldered  in  place.  I  will  now  give 
directions  for  forming  it,  and  for  the  different  stages  through  which 
it  will  pass  until  finished,  together  with  the  tools  used.  Let  it  be 
required  that  the  bell  a,  Fig.  406,  at  the  top,  measures  12  inches,  the 
straight  part  ^  measures  7  inches  at  the  top  and  8  inches  at  the  bot- 
tom, and  the  bell  c  18  inches  at  the  bottom.  First  prepare  the  top,  the 
outer  edge  of  which  must  be  enough  larger  thm  12  inches  to  cover  a 
}(  inch  wire,  say,  about  }2  inch  each  side  ;  then  the  bell  at  the  top 
before  wiring  would  be  13  inches  in  diameter.  The  curve  or  flow  of 
the  bell  is  most  pleasing  to  the  eye  when  it  is  an  elliptic  curve,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  407,  all  the  lines  of  which  are  given  as  a  guide.   Let  a  y 

of  Fig.  408  represent  the  top  bell  of  Fig.  407  before  wiring— that 
is,  with  the  edge  flat  and  measuring  13  inches  in  diameter,  the 
bottom  next  the  pipe  or  straight  part  being  7  inches.  Draw  the 
line  ab  of  Fig.  408  from  the  point  a  Yz  inch  from  the  outer  edge 
through  the  points  a  and  b,  and  divide  the  versed  sine  of  the  arc  or 
curve  into  three  equal  parts.  From  the  point  b  on  the  line  b  d  mark 
off  a  distance  equal  to  one-third  the  length  of  the  versed  sine,  and 
from  the  point  a  on  the  line  ay  mark  off  a  distance  equal  to  two- 
thirds  of  the  length  of  the  versed  sine.    Draw  the  line  m  c  and  con- 


^54 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


J^ig.  407. — Manner  of  Obtaining  Curves  for 
Valve  Chimney. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  ^10.— Saddle  Head  for 
Planishing  Bell. 


Fig.  412. — Bell  and  Straight  Part 
Cramped  Together. 


256 


ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


tinue  it  to  x.  Draw  x y.  From  the  points  c  and  d  on  the  lines  x  0  and 
^  J,  lay  off  the  length  of  the  curved  line  of  the  bell;  then,  with  the 
radius  x y  thus  obtained,  describe  the  arc^  a y  h,  and  with  the  radius 
X  s  describe  the  arc  reds.  Then  the  surface  ot  the  truncated  cone 
c  d  m  y  will  equal  approximately  the  surface  of  the  bell  of  which  g  a 
y  /i  s  r  is  the  pattern.  The  pattern  for  the  bottom  bell  may  be  ob- 
tained in  a  similar  manner.  File  up  round  the  outside  and  inside 
edges,  after  which  thin  the  two  ends  and  anneal  and  cramp  them. 
Then  fold  it  up  as  shown  in  Fig„  409,  being  careful  that  the  two 
edges  lie  snugly  together,  and  that  all  the  spring  is  taken 
out  after  the  joint  is  laid  and  ready  for  the  fire.  To  assist  in  this, 
let  the  pattern  be  held  together  by  four  dogs,  two  on  each  side, 
as  shown.  Jar  a  little  borax  and  water  through  the  joint,  and  charge 
it.  Now  sling,  and  with  a  clean  fire  slowly  heat  it,  first  on  one  side 
and  then  the  other,  until  the  borax  is  all  down;  then  with  a  gentle 
fire  the  joint  may  be  easily  run  down.  When  cool,  the  joint  can  be 
cleaned,  care  being  taken  to  see  that  all  cramps  are  well  filled.  If  any 
are  deficient,  open  the  cramp  and  carefully  clean  it  on  the  under  or 
inside,  then  close  it  dov/n  and  lay  a  little  fresh  spelter  on  the  outside 
and  inside,  and  run  it  afresh,  keeping  the  solder  outside  from  oxidiz- 
ing by  applying  povsrdered  borax.  After  the  seam  has  been  cleaned 
off  outside  and  iuside  it  may  be  rounded  up  into  shape.  A  hammer 
should  be  used  as  little  as  possible  in  dressing  the  joint.  If  an  oven 
of  a  proper  heat  is  at  hand,  the  annealing  can  be  better  performed 
in  it  than  in  any  other  way.  If  there  be  none,  place  it 
over  a  clean  coke  fire,  and  gradually  make  it  blojd  red. 
When  cool  take  it  to  a  suitable  sized  mandrel,  and  with 
a  ball-faced  mallet  work  out  from  the  inside  a  light  course  at 
the  small  end,  then  turn  it  up  and  work  out  a  course  at  the  large  end, 
also  frorn  the  inside.  Now  hang  it  on  the  mandrel  and  work  in  a 
course  each  way  from  the  outside,  being  careful  that  the  blows  are 
regular,  so  that  all  parts  receive  an  equal  amount  of  working  strain. 
If  this  is  not  properly  attended  to  it  may  crack  when  the  annealing 
begins,  as  brass  is  very  brittle  when  hot,  hence  it  is  necessary  that  the 
work  should  be  performed  regularly  and  uniformly  all  around  in  each 
course.  When  by  continued  courses,  first  inside  and  then  outside,  the 
desired  curve  is  obtained,  the  edges  at  the  small  ends  of  bell  and  pipe 
may  be   thinned  and   annealed  and  the  pieces  planished,  leaving 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


enough  of  the  outer  edge  of  the  bell  soft  to  cover  the  wire  at  the  top 
end  and  to  form  the  bead  to  receive  the  foot  at  the  bottom.  The  plan- 
ishing is  best  performed  on  a  saddle  head,  Fig.  410,  if  one  is  at  hand  ; 
if  not  a  mandrel,  Fig.  411,  may  be  cast  to  suit  the  curve  and  slide  on  a 
bar  fastened  in  the  mandrel  block  or  in  a  loop  in  the  bench.  When 
the  planishing  of  the  two  bells  and  the  straight  piece  is  completed  and 
all  the  edges  are  thinned,  annealed  and  scraped  or  filed  clean,  cramp 
the  straight  part  and  bring  the  bell  to  it,  as  indicated  in  Fig.  412,  and 
with  a  bolt  and  two  pieces  of  stiff  iron  draw  them  together,  passing 
the  rod  through  them  and  puUing  them  together,  as  shown.  Smooth 
down  the  cramps,  and  the  work  is  readv  for  the  fire.* 

*  hen  the  writer  first  began  making  these  chimneys  a  number  of  failures  resulted,  partly 
from  ignorance  of  the  laws  of  expansion  by  heat,  but  mainly  from  the  fear  that  if  the  irons  and 
rod  were  taken  off  the  joint  would  separate;  but  one  day,  by  accident,  the  joints  not  being  in 
line,  the  bolt  was  taken  out  to  adjust  them,  when  it  was  found  to  be  quite  a  job  to  pull  the 
joint  apart  ;  so  after  the  adjustment  an  attempt  was  made  to  braze  the  joint  without  the  bolt 
to  hold  it  together,  with  complete  success.  The  work  was  much  better  than  ever  it  had  been 
done  before. 


ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


BRAZING  THE  JOINT. 

Now  take  the  straight  saddle  forge,  Fig.  413,  place  in  position  and 
make  a  clean  fire  in  it ;  jar  some  borax  through  the  joint  and 
charge  it  slowly  all  around  on  the  inside,  and  sling  it  in  an  endless 
chain  running  over  a  pulley.  Hook  it  to  the  chain  overhead,  holding 
the  end  with  a  suitable  pair  of  tongs.  Now  heat  it  slowly  ;  then  tack 
it  by  running  the  spelter  in  two  opposite  places,  slowly  making  it  hot 
enough  to  bring  the  borax  down,  then  with  a  gentle  fire  run  it  around, 
one  cramp  at  a  time,  always  having  command  of  the  blast  slide  so  as  to 
stop  it  immediately  if  necessary.  The  lower  bell  may  be  brazed  on  in 
the  same  way.  When  both  joints  are  cleaned  off  and  the  parts  plan- 
ished about  them,  it  is  then  ready  for  polishing,  which  is  usually  done 
on  a  lathe.  The  foot,  by  reason  of  its  size,  is  usually  made  in  halves 
m  order  to  economize  the  sheet.  After  the  pattern  is  cut  (which  will 
be  described  further  on),  the  seams  made  and  the  foot  rounded  up,  an 
iron  band  or  hoop,  Fig.  414,  about  i  inch  wide  and  %  inch  thick  is  put 
on  the  level  end,  and  the  brass  partly  turned  over  in  some  six  or  seven 
places.  This  is  to  keep  the  foot  in  proper  shape  while  working  out 
the  flow — which  is  done  after  the  same  fashion  as  the  bell — in  light 
courses  with  a  mallet.  The  valve  cover,  Fig.  415,  has  no  straight  part. 
The  two  bells  e  f  Fig  416  are  put  together  at  the  small  ends  ;  the 
top  or  upper  end  of  the  foot  g  of  Fig.  416  and  A  of  Fig.  417  being  razed 
over  enough  so  that  the  lower  bell  may  be  cramped  in  with  ease  and 
readily  brazed  on  the  narrow  fire,  being  slung  as  in  Fig.  418.  After 
the  joint  is  brazed  and  cleaned  off  and  the  planishing  is  completed,  it 
is  put  in  a  lathe  and  polished. 


jFz^.  Saddle  Fofge. 


26o  ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


ART  OF 


COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  420. — Parts  of  Dome. 


262 


ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING 


BRASS  COVER  FOR  REGULATOR  DOME. 

The  cover  for  a  regular  dome,  Fig.  419,  is  about  2  feet  3  inches  in  di- 
ameter and  3  feet  high,  made  from  brass  of  No.  12  wire  gaug(»in  thick- 
ness. To  mark  out  the  curve  which  will  fit  the  boiler  when  the  sheet 
is  turned  round,  as  in  Fig.  420,  proceed  as  follows  :  Let  a  b  oi  Fig.  421 
equal  the  diameter  of  the  boiler,  and  c  d  equal  the  diameter  of  the 
dome  cover.  With  the  radius  ed  describe  the  circle  c  b  d g,  and 
divide  the  circle  into  sixteen  equal  parts;  then  on  the  line  //  /  lay  off 
a  distance  equal  to  the  circumference  of  the  circle  c  b  d g  and  divide 
h  i  into  sixteen  equal  parts.  Draw  the  lines  parallel  with  h  k  \.(:>  i  n, 
then  from  the  points  i  2  3  4  of  the  circle  a  0  b  draw  the  lines  i  i,  2  2, 
3  3,  and  4  4,  parallel  to  h  i.  Through  the  points  of  intersection  draw 
the  curved  line  ho p  which  will  fit  the  boiler  when  formed  into  a 
Cylinder.  Round  up  the  edges  and  thin  the  ends;  cramp  them  and 
double  the  sheet,  being  careful,  as  before  directed,  that  all  spring 
caused  by  doubling  is  taken  out  before  going  to  the  fire-  then  sling  it; 
jar  some  borax  through  the  joint,  and  with  a  reed,  charge  it,  laying 
the  spelter  in  a  zigzag  line,  following  the  edge  of  the  cramps,  which 
should  not  exceed  an  inch  in  length.  Now,  be  patient,  and  slowly 
heat  the  sheet,  each  side,  on  a  clean  fire,  being  careful  that  there  is  no 
lead,  salt,  or  any  foreign  matter  in  it  (the  coke  should  be  clean  and 
about  an  inch  square).  Whea  the  borax  is  all  down,  with  a  gentle 
blast  slowly  run  the  joint  down,  and  when  cool,  clean  off  and  round  up 
on  a  suitable  mandrel.  In  working  out  the  foot,  as  previously  ob- 
served, the  most  pleasing  curve  is  that  of  the  ellipse,  which  may  be 
made  of  any  length  desired. 

Having  the  pattern  of  the  curve,  which  will  be  one-fourth  of  an 
ellipse,  commence  razing  out  the  foot  or  flow  by  a  light  course  with  a 
ball  faced  mallet,  represented  by  F  in  Fig.  422,  using  a  thick  wooden 
block  E  hollowed  out  to  nearly  fit  the  circle  of  the  cylinder,  and 
sloped  off  at  one  end,  being  rounded  nearly  to  the  curve  it  is  desired 
the  foot  should  be.  The  block  is  dogged  to  the  bench  G  as  shown. 
Let  each  course  taken  to  raze  the  foot  out  be  light  and  the  blows  reg- 
ular, annealing  at  the  conclusion  of  each  course.  The  top,  or  crown, 
of  Fig.  420  may  be  worked  with  the  foot  in  alternate  spells  as  they 


ART   OK  COPPERSMITHING. 


264 


ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING.  265 

are  cooling,  and  thus  economize  time.  When  the  writer  first  began 
to  make  these  covers  the  crown  was  made  an  exact  half- sphere,  but 
'  while  in  the  act  of  drawing  the  outlines  it  was  noticed  much  time 
could  be  saved  by  taking  a  wider  sheet  and  tucking  in  the  top  end, 
making  the  crown  smaller,  which  method  was  adopted,  the  work  being 
much  easier  performed  with  less  time  spent  at  the  fire.  The  difference 
is  illustrated  at  C  in  Fig,  419,  where  it  is  shown  that  two-sixths  of  the 
circle  is  taken  for  the  crown  and  the  other  sixth  left  on  the  cylinder, 
which  lessened  the  labor  and  made  the  work  required  much  easier 
than  when  the  crown  was  one-half  a  sphere. 

1  will  now  form  the  top  or  crown,  first  cutting  the  pattern  and 
forming  it,  and  then  complete  the  job.  Let  age,  Fig.  423,  represent 
the  crown  for  the  dome-cover,  which  is  equal  to  two-thirds  of  one-half 
of  a  hollow  sphere  whose  diameter  is  the  same  as  the  cylindric 
part  of  the  dome-cover.  Draw  the  line  g  c  from  the  edge  of  the  hole 
g  ;  also  draw  the  versed  sine  x  dividing  it  at  the  center,  through 
which  draw  the  line  b  e.  With  the  radius  b  e  describe  the  arc  e  a  o  f 
and  measure  off  on  its  circumference  cix  times  the  radius  n  c  and, 
draw  b  /,  then  e  a  0  /will  be  the  pattern  for  the  segment  of  the 
hollow  sphere  a  g  c^or  the  crown  of  the  dome  cover.  Now  make  the 
ioint  and  braze  it  ;  round  up  into  shape  and  anneal,  when  it  is  ready 
for  the  first  course.  Crimp  the  edge  at  the  bottom  and  take  it  to  the 
mandrel  block,  Fig.  424.  With  a  mallet,  on  the  head  take  in  a  course, 
beginning  one-third  the  distance  up  the  side  ;  then  the  same  at  the 
top,  and  anneal.  The  next  course  should  be  enough  to  bring  in  the 
edge  at  the  bottom  and  also  at  the  top;  then  take  a  course  in  the  mid- 
dle from  the  inside,  which  should  complete  the  curve.  It  may  now 
be  smoothed  up  true,  after  which  the  crown  is  ready  to  be  put  in. 
Before  proceeding  to  do  this,  see  that  the  edges  are  true  across  their 
diameter,  then  thin  them  with  a  paned  hammer,  after  which  anneal 
and  clean  either  by  scraping  or  filing.  Cramp  the  base  part,  then 
open  the  outside  cramps,  bringing  the  crown  to  it,  and  with  a  cross- 
piece,  or  two  pieces  laid  across  each  other,  pass  a  rod  through  them 
and  through  the  crown,  upon  which  lay  another  short  piece,  the  bolt 
passing  through  it  also.  Now  screw  it  up  tight,  tapping  the  joint 
occasionally  all  around  to  assist  the  bolt  in  bringing  the  joint  up 
close.  Turn  it  with  the  foot  up,  and  at  four  opposite  places  close 
down  four  cramps  and  drill  four  holes,  patting  in  four  small  brass 


266 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


268 


ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING 


rivets,  enough  to  hold  it  while  the  joint  is  being-  closed  down  smooth — 
which  may  be  done  by  a  helper  holding  a  head  inside  or  by  putting 
it  on  the  head  as  in  Fig.  425  and  balancing  it  with  a  weight,  as  shown. 
When  the  joint  is  ready,  take  to  the  fire  and  sling  it  in  an  end- 
less chain  with  pulley  wheel.  Fig.  426,  hooking  it  to  the  traveler  over- 
head. Jar  some  liquid  borax  through  the  joint,  and  sprinkle  some 
powdered  borax  outside;  then  charge  it  with  spelter  all  around, 
warming  it  gradually,  and  then  tack  it  in  four  places  between  the 
rivets.  By  this  time  it  will  be  fairly  hot.  Go  once  more  around 
slowly,  and  when  at  the  place  of  starting  begin  to  run  the  joint  with 
a  gentle  fire,  one  cramp  at  a  time.  A  little  help  is  now  necessary  to 
attend  to  the  blast  and  sprinkle  borax  on  the  joint  as  required.  As  a 
hand-hold  to  use  while  at  the  fire,  two  screw-clamps  are  fastened  to 
the  points  of  the  foot,  as  shown.  "When  the  joint  is  run  and  has  had 
time  to  cool,  it  may  be  cleaned  if  found  to  be  perfect.  The  whole  job 
is  now  trued  to  shape  and  planished  ;  first  the  body,  as  in  Fig.  427,  the 
mandrel  curve  being  rather  smaller  than  that  of  the  dome  cover  ; 
and  then  the  crown,  as  in  Fig.  425.  The  cleaning  and  polishing  can  be 
done  in  a  lathe. 


1269] 


Pig.  428. — Interior  View  of  Coppersmith  Sho.l 


Viowing  Pipe  Coils  and  Brewery  Fittings, 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


270 


HEAVY  PIPES  FOR  BREWERY  WORK. 

The  earlier  pages  were  principally  devoted  to  a  description  of  the 
working  of  light  sheet  copper  in  the  manufacture  of  cooking  utensils  or 
small  articles  generally,  and  known  better  as  the  braziers'  art.  This 
was  followed  by  the  work  for  the  locomotive  and  marine  engine,  which, 
it  will  have  been  seen,  in  the  main  comprises  the  making  of  copper 
pipes,  large  and  small,  bending  and  twisting  them  into  any  shape  to 
suit  the  position  desired  or  exigent  circumstances,  and  is  known  as 
light  coppersmithing.  From  this  point  an  endeavor  will  be  made  to 
interest  the  reader  with  some  examples  of  heavy  work,  such  as  he  may 
occasionally  encounter  in  his  way  (as  has  happened  with  the  writer) 
while  moving  from  shop  to  shop,  either  from  choice  or  necessity.  To 
keep  as  nearly  in  a  progressive  line  as  possible,  the  subject  of  pipes  will 
be  resumed  and  considered  in  their  various  forms  in  large  and  heavy 
work  for  application  in  breweries,  sugar  and  still  houses. 

In  breweries  the  principal  uses  for  pipes  are  for  refrigerators  and 
attemperators,  and  these  consist  of  coils  of  pipe  of  various  forms  which 
are  made  to  fit  the  coolers  or  fermenting  vats  for  the  purpose  of  raising 
or  lowering  the  temperature  of  the  liquor  by  the  aid  of  a  current  of 
water  or  steam  passing  through  the  pipes. 

In  Fig.  428  is  presented  a  view  of  the  interior  of  a  shop  engaged  in 
this  kind  of  work,  which  gives  the  reader  a  good  idea  of  the  conven- 
iences that  are  necessary  to  perform  it  successfully.  The  photograph 
from  which  the  cut  was  made  was  kindly  furnished  by  G.  Hendry  &  Co. 
of  London,  England,  especially  for  this  work,  with  a  view  of  giving  the 
reader  a  more  faithful  illustration  than  can  be  done  by  a  pen  descrip- 
tion. The  picture  is  so  complete  that  it  would  seem  to  need  no  further 
explanation. 

In  Fig.  429  is  represented  a  cooler  having'a  group  of  pipes  made  to 
fit  it,  and  so  arranged  that  the  pipes  may  be  raised  or  lowered  in  a  con- 
venient way  when  necessary  to  do  so  for  cleaning.  This  grouping  of 
the  pipes  is  perhaps  among  the  oldest  contrivances  used  for  cooling 
purposes  in  the  manufacture  of  beer.  It  consists  of  a  number  of  pipes 
of  equal  length,  grouped  together  with  horseshoe  bends  to  form  a  con- 


^^g-  AZ*^.— Horseshoe  Bend. 


^iR-  AZ^.—Set  of  Pipes  for  Small  Cooler. 


273  ^^'^  COPPERSMITHING. 

tinuous  run  of  piping  sufficient  to  fill  up  the  space  on  the  bottom  of  a 
cooler,  as  shown.  The  horseshoe  bend  is  shown  in  Fig.  43b,  and  is 
made  of  brass  or  gun  metal.  The  pipes  are  separated  from  each  other 
by  boards  called  channel  boards.  The  two  end  pipes  are  left  open  and 
are  provided  with  hose  unions  for  connection  with  the  water  supply, 
which  is  made  to  run  along  inside  the  pipes  in  the  opposite  direction  to 
the  wort  in  the  cooler.  Fig.  431  shows  a  set  of  pipes  for  a  small  cooler 
without  the  lifting  appliance  shown  in  Fig.  429.  For  large  coolers  iwo 
and  three  sets  of  pipes  may  be  and  often  are  connected  together,  each 
working  independently  of  the  other,  but  all  bolted  on  the  same  frame 
by  means  of  the  lugs  on  the  bend.  By  this  arrangement  smaller  pipes 
can  be  used  and  the  cooling  surface  increased,  while  the  consumption 
of  water  is  proportionately  diminished.  The  pipes  are  usually  soft 
soldered  into  the  bends.  The  foregoing  apparatus  is  designed  and 
used  for  cooling  purposes,  but  the  conditions  are  sometimes  changed, 
and  similar  pipes  are  used  for  warming,  which  are  called  attemperators, 
and  others  are  used  for  boiling  coils.  In  Fig.  432  is  represented  a  boil- 
ing round— that  is,  a  round  vat  or  tub,  supplied  with  a  coil  of  copper 
pipe  lying  on  the  bottom,  which  is  set  with  a  gradual  fall  toward  the 
I  center  so  that  the  condensed  steam  or  water  is  drained  off  through  the 
bottom,  the  condensed  steam  keeping  the  live  steam  at  the  full  press- 
ure, thus  making  the  liquor  boil  quicker,  and  preventing  a  waste  of 
steam,  which  must  occur  if  it  was  allowed  to  blow  off  into  the  air.  The 
steam  is  turned  into  the  coil  by  a  valve  fastened  to  the  side  of  the  round, 
as  shown  at  X,  Fig.  432.  Fig.  433  is  the  same  in  principle,  but  made  to 
suit  an  oblong  vessel.  This  vessel  is  called  a  back,  on  account  of  its 
shape,  so  that  it  may  be  easily  distinguished  from  a  round  vat.  Another 
form  of  liquor  back  is  shown  in  Fig.  434.  The  set  of  pipes  is  furnished 
with  either  ball  joints  or  gland  and  stuffing  box,  so  that  it  can  be  raised 
or  lowered  at  will  for  cleaning,  or  to  get  it  out  of  the  way  when  neces- 
sary to  do  so.  It  is  therefore  much  better  and  more  convenient  than 
the  kind  with  fixed  coil.  Vats  and  backs  are  also  fitted  with  spiral  coils, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  435  and  Fig.  436.  When  they  are  fitted  with  coils  in 
this  way  they  are  used  principally  for  fermentation,  thus  distributing 
the  temperature  evenly  through  the  mass  of  liquor. 

Let  us  make  one  of  these  coils,  and  let  the  pipe  of  which  it  is  made 
be  3  inches  in  diameter  and  the  coil  consist  of  four  rings.  Fig.  437,  the 
outside  ring  being  6  feet  in  diameter  from  center  to  center,  and  the  in- 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


274 


side  ring  2  feet.  The  first  thing  is  to  find  the  length  of  the  coil,  which 
we  do  by  marking  out  the  coil  in  Fig.  437,  as  follows  :  Draw  the  line 
Z  Y,  making  it  6  feet,  and  bisect  it  in  V,  and  with  V  as  center  and  V  X 
as  radius,  equal  to  i  foot,  describe  the  semicircle  X  U  W;  then  divide  X  Z 
and  W  Y  into  three  equal  spaces,  a  b^bZ\  c^c  d,  dV,  and  from  V  on 
V  Z  lay  off  V  e,  equal  to  one  of  the  spaces  X  a,  and  divide  V  ^  at  T;  then 
from  the  point  T  as  center,  with  T  W  as  radius,  describe  the  semicircle  W 
S  a,  changing  the  centers  V  and  T  for  each  semicircle  in  succession  until 
the  coil  is  complete.  Now,  we  have  seven  semicircles,  the  center  one, 
X  U  W,  2  feet  in  diameter,  the  next,  W  S  ^,  2^3,  the  third,  a  R  c,  3>^, 
the  fourth,  c  Q  4  feet  ;  the  fifth,  ^  P  ^,  4^3,  the  sixth,  d  O  Z,  5^,  and 
the  seventh,  Z  N  Y,  6  feet.    Now  adding  these  all  together  and  divid- 

1  u  2  -f  2^  +  +  4  +  4^  +  5>^  +  6 
mg  by  2  we  have   ^-^  ^  ~  —  =  14,  or  a  cir- 
cle of  14  feet  equal  to  coil  ;  and  multiplying  this  by  3.1416  we  get 
14  X  3.1416  =  43.9824,  the  length  of  the  coil.  Hence  we  want  44  feet 
of  pipe  (exclusive  of  that  required  to  make  the  joints)  to  make  the  coil. 
The  pipes  may  be  made,  fitted  and  bent  and  joined  together  with 
socket  joints. 

Copper  pipe  used  in  the  making  of  coils  of  various  kinds  has  usually 
been  made  in  lengths  varying  from  10  to  14  feet,  therefore  all  coils  of 
any  considerable  size  must  be  made  in  sections  and  joined  or  brazed 
together.  To  do  this  brazi  g  in  the  most  convenient  and  expeditious 
way  It  is  necessary  to  provide  a  wheel  and  axle,  as  shown  in  Fig.  438, 
upon  which  the  coil  may  be  fastened  with  a  strap,  A,  and  held  in  posi- 
tion for  manipulation  as  each  section  of  pipe  is  added  to  the  coil  and 
the  process  of  brazing  together  h  being  executed.  The  wheel  and  axle 
are  fastened  to  a  suitable  post  and  over  a  pit,  the  axle  being  placed 
about  3  feet  from  the  floor,  so  that  the  socket  when  level  will  be  on  a 
line  with  the  center  of  the  axle,  and  can  easily  be  attended  to  when 
the  coil  exceeds  6  feet  in  diameter.  The  accompanying  illustration. 
Fig,  438,  sufficiently  explains  itself. 

The  method  given  above  for  describing  a  flat  coil  is  perhaps  the 
simplest  that  can  be  used.  For  those  who  desire  to  make  a  coil  nearer 
the  truth,  it  is  necessary  to  resort  to  what  is  called  an  eye — that  is,  a  group 
of  points  situated  in  regular  polygon  form  for  centers,  which  may  be- 
gin with  a  triangle,  as  in  Fig.  439,  or  with  any  other  number  of  points, 
as  in  Fig.  440.    I  will  explain  these  two  methods,  and  leave  the  learner 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


^  2——^''"'^ 

J^ig^  437. — Diagrafn  for  Coil. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING.  276 


Fig.  z^^?,.— Wheel  and  Axle  for  Brazing  Pipe. 


Fig  440. — Laying  Out  Coil  with  Hexagon  for  Center. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


278 


to  pursue  the  further  study  of  the  subject  as  he  may  desire.    In  Fig. 

439,  the  eye  of  the  coil  which  governs  the  distance  between  the  rings  is 
an  equilateral  triangle.  Now  let  it  be  required  to  make  a  coil  6  inches 
apart  from  center  to  center  of  the  rings,  then  we  divide  the  6  inches 
into  three  and  erect  a  triangle,  ABC,  making  the  sides  equal  to  2 
inches  ;  then  with  B  as  center  and  B  ^  as  radius,  describe  the  arc  a  b  ; 
and  with  C  as  center  and  C  3  as  radius,  describe  the  arc  b  and  with  A 
as  center  and  A  ^:  as  radius,  describe  the  arc  c  and  repeat  the  process 
until  the  size  of  the  coil  is  reached.  In  Fig.  440  the  eye  of  the  coil  is 
a  hexagon.  Now  let  the  distance  apart  be  the  same  as  in  the  last  ex- 
ample. Then  6  inches  divided  into  six  parts  gives  us  i  inch  for  one 
side  of  a  polygon  of  six  sides.    Draw  a  hexagon,  A  B  C  D  E  F,  Fig. 

440,  and  make  the  sides  equal  to  i  inch  ;  then  from  A  as  center  and  A  b 
as  radius,  describe  the  arc  b  c,  and  with  B  as  center  and  B  as  radius, 
decribe  the  arc  c  and  repeat  the  process  around  the  polygon,  taking 
each  corner  in  succession,  until  the  coil  has  been  completed  the  required 
size. 

The  length  of  these  coils  may  be  obtained  in  a  similar  way  to  that 
already  given — that  is,  by  adding  together  the  diameters  of  all  the 
circles  which  compose  the  coil  and  multiplying  by  3.1416  and  dividing 
the  product  by  the  number  of  points  in  the  eye  of  the  coii. 

Fig.  441  shows  a  portable  coil  a  d  the  manner  of  using.  The  three 
supporting  stays  are  iron,  bolted  together  and  provided  with  eye  bolts 
for  suspending  rods  by  which  the  coil  may  be  hung  in  a  vat  or  tun  at 
any  hight  desired.  The  ends  of  the  coil  are  supplied  with  unions  for 
connecting  leather  or  rubber  hose.  These  portable  coils  are  quite 
handy,  as  they  may  be  removed  readily  with  pulley  blocks  out  of  a  tun 
when  not  required.  Portable  coils  may  be  made  any  other  shape  de- 
sired. 

It  sometimes  happens  that  it  is  better  and  more  convenient  to  have 
the  two  ends  of  an  attemperator — that  is,  the  outlet  and  inlet — lying 
side  by  side  or  close  together  in  preference  to  having  one  end  cross  the 
coil,  as  in  Fig.  441.  In  this  case  we  resort  to  another  plan,  which  is 
shown  in  Fig.  442.  When  it  happens  that  the  workman  does  not  pos- 
sess the  skill  necessary  to  perform  the  operation  of  brazing  the  sec- 
tional joints  of  the  coil,  flanges  may  be  employed  for  joining  the  sec- 
tions together,  as  shown  in  Fig.  443,  the  flanges  being  made  just  wide 
enough  to  get  bolts  in,  and  of  sufficient  strength  to  make  the  joint  se- 


279  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  441. — Portable  Coil. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


280 


Fig.  443. — Coil  with  Flanged  Joints. 


28l 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


cure.  It  may  sometimes  be  better  to  put  them  together  in  this  way,  so 
that  any  section  may  be  taken  out  for  repairing  when  necessary. 

To  find  the  length  of  a  spiral  coil,  as  in  Fig.  435,  whose  diameter  is  6 
feet  from  center  to  center  of  pipe  and  having  three  rings,  with  a  rise  of 
I  foot  to  each  ring,  it  will  be  seen  that  as  each  ring  rises  i  foot  the 
length  of  pipe  required  for  the  three  rings  of  the  coil  would  be  the 
hypotenuse  of  a  right-angled  triangle  whose  base  is  equal  to  the  circum- 
ference of  three  flat  rings  as  the  base  and  the  foot  rise  of  each  of  the 
three  rings  of  the  coil  as  a  perpendicular.    Then  the  length  of  the  coil  is 

V  —  • 

V  {6  X  3.1416  X  3)^  +(1x3)^  =  56.58,  or  56  feet  7  inches  nearly; 
therefore  to  make  a  spiral  coil,  as  in  Fig.  435,  we  require  56  feet  7  inches 
of  pipe,  which  is  made  of  convenient  lengths  and  put  together  with 
socket  joints  as  before  directed. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


282 


BREWING  COPPERS  OR  KETTLES. 

Large  brewing  coppers  are  made  in  several  different  ways  ;  the 
accompanying  illustrations  give  three  of  the  styles  most  in  use,  and 
will,  I  think,  be  sufficient  for  our  purpose.  ^ 

Fig.  444  is  an  open  copper  with  a  light  course  ;  that  is,  an  addition 
to  the  copper  proper,  to  enlarge  its  capacity  and  lessen  the  cost,  the 
light  course  being  made  of  lighter  material  than  the  copper  proper, 
and  yet  of  sufficient  strength,  as  it  is  usually  supported  by  brick  work 
built  around  the  course  nearly  or  up  to  the  brim.  Let  us  build  one  of 
these  large  coppers  with  a  light  course,  and  let  it  hold,  say,  50  barrels 
in  each  course  ;  that  is,  the  copper  proper  to  hold  50  and  the  light 
course  to  hold  50  barrels  also.  The  coppers  may  be  made  in  any  pro- 
portions to  suit  the  place  they  are  to  occupy  ;  that  is,  they  can  be  tall 
or  squat,  as  the  room  can  be  spared,  because  the  copper,  in  consequence 
of  its  bulk,  together  with  the  brick  work  necessary  for  the  furnace, 
takes  up  considerable  room,  and  therefore  is  usually  placed  in  some 
convenient  position,  as  much  out  of  the  way  as  possible. 

In  an  early  chapter  it  was  shown  that  the  usual  proportion  for  a 
copper  to  hold  106  gallons  is,  top  38,  bottom  33^  and  depth  28,  so  we 
will  make  our  proposed  50-barrel  kettle  in  the  same  proportion,  and 
then  add  the  light  course  to  it.  Now,  all  vessels  of  capacity  are  in  the 
triplicate  ratio  ;  that  is,  comprise  length,  breadth  and  thickness,  or 
their  capacity  is  found  by  multiplying  these  three  dimensions  together. 

Therefore  we  will  take  the  diameter  at  the  top  as  the  basis  by  which 
to  obtain  the  dimensions  required  for  the  sides  and  bottom.     Then  the 

top  diameter  of  a  106-gallon  kettle  measures  38  inches,  and       =  54,872 

o 

inches,  and  as  a  barrel  (English)  contains  36  gallons,  therefore  50  bar- 
rels contain  1800  gallons,  and  1800  ^  106  =  16.981,  or  the  number  of 
times  106  gallons  is  contained  in  50  barrels.  We  now  multiply  the  cube 
of  38,  or  54,872,  by  16.981,  the  number  of  times  1800  gallons  contain  106 
gallons,  which  gives  us  930,781.432,  and  then  extracting  the  cube  root  of 
this  last  result  we  get  97.63,  or  the  top  diameter  of  a  copper  to  hold  50 
barrels,  which,  in  practice,  we  should  call  8  feet  2  inches.  Here  then  we 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  444. — Open  Copper,  with  Light  Course. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  445. — Sketch  Illustrating  Shape  of  Coppers. 


Ftg.  ^/\6.  '' Diagram  Used  in  Calculating  Patterns. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


have  the  first  dimension  of  our  proposed  copper,  8  feet  2  inches.  We 
will  now  proceed  to  obtain  the  other  two  dimensions  by  proportion, 
thus  :  Taking  the  dimensions  of  our  106-gallon  vessel,  as  stated,  top 
38,  bottom  33  5,  and  depth  28  inches  ;  then  38  :  33.5  ::  97.63  :  86.  Again, 
38  :  28  ::  97.63  :  71.938  From  this,  then,  we  find  the  three  dimensions 
of  a  50-barrel  copper  to  be  :  Top,  97.63  ;  bottom,  86.068,  and  depth, 
71.938,  whi  h  we  should  call  8  feet  2  inches  top,  7  feet  2  inches  bottom 
and  6  feet  deep.  We  must  now  have  the  pattern  for  the  sides,  which  we 
will  proceed  to  get.  By  referring  to  Fig.  445,  it  will  be  seen  that  a 
copper  is  a  part  of  the  middle  zone  of  a  circular  spindle  ;  that  is  to  say, 
the  body  of  which  it  is  a  part  is  generated  by  the  revolution 
of  the  segment  of  a  circle,  and  the  versed  sine  of  the  segment  is  one- 
half  the  diameter  of  the  copper  at  the  brim.  Without  a  knowledge  of 
the  properties  of  the  circular  spindle,  we  can  at  best  only  make  a  good 
guess  at  what  the  pattern  should  be. 

The  illustration  here  given  shows  two  coppers  with  their  brims 
placed  together,  and  then  the  outline  of  the  spindle  completed.  This 
when  carefully  and  intelligently  performed  gives  the  key  for  cutting 
the  sides  of  all  bellied  vessels  which  are  built  up  of  a  number  of  pieces, 
as  in  the  case  of  large  coppers.  Then  as  stated  :  The  depth  of  the 
copper  is  one-half  the  chord  of  the  arc  A  B,  and  is  71.938  inches,  and 
the  versed  sine  of  the  arc  AB  is  one-half  the  difference  between  the 

1 1.57 

diameter  of  the  top  and  bottom,  which  is  — — -  or  5.^85. 


— '-  =  450.176,  the  radius  E  I,  Fig.  446,  of  the  circle  of  which 

the  curve  of  the  spindle  (that  is,  the  sides  of  the  coppers  from  top  to 
bottom,  or  from  A  to  B)  E  A  B  F  is  a  part.    The  diameter  G  H  at  the 

center  of  the  spindle  is  97.63  ;  then  one-half  G  H,  or  =  48.815,  or 

the  versed  sine  G  J  of  the  arc  E  G  F,  Fig.  446,  and  450.176  x  2  — 
48.815  =  851.538;  then  ^851.538  X  48.815  =  203.611,  or  E  J,  which  is 


one-half  the  length  of  the  spindle,  and  V  85  1.538  X  48.815  +  48.815, 
z=  209.586,  or  G  F. 


2 


5-785 


+  5.785 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


286 


287 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


But  G-  F  =  G  K,  therefore  ^  851-538  x  48.815  +  48.815  ^  ^^^^^^ 

2 

K  N,  the  radius  of  the  circle  M  G  K  ;  whence  K  M  is  144.91  x  2,  or 
289.82  ;  that  is,  24.15  feet  is  the  radius  of  the  curve  at  the  brim  edge  of 
the  pattern,  and  289.82  —  71.93  =  217.89,  or  18.157  feet,  is  the  radius 

for  the  arc  S  T  at  the  bottom  edge.    Again  :  97-^3  x  3-^4^^  _.  ^1,1424, 

6 

or  the  versed  sine  of  the  arc  of  the  circle  of  which  curve  the  side  edges 
must  be  cut  before  hollowing  in  the  hollowing  tub.  Fig.  447,  ready  for 
placing  in  position  for  riveting — that  is,  when  the  sides  are  in  three 


pieces.    Then  ^  51.1424  =  812.78,  or  the  diameter  in  inches  of 

51.1424 

the  circle  of  which  the  curve  of  the  two  edges  are  a  part  or  must  be  cut 
before  hollowing. 

Therefore  ^1^-  =  406.39,  or  33.8658  feet,  for  the  radius  of  the  two 
2 

side  edges  of  the  pattern.  Here,  then,  we  have  three  pieces  or  sides  in 
the  small  sketch.  Fig.  446,  102.2383  from  O  to  P,  71.93  from  M'  to  R, 
and  90.059  from  S  to  T,  with  a  radius  of  33.8658  feet  for  the  curve  of 
the  side  seam  edges,  and  a  radius  of  24.15  feet  for  the  curve  at  brim, 
and  18.157  the  radius  of  the  curve  at  the  bottom. 

These  dimensions  are,  of  course,  all  bare — that  is,  nothing  allowed 
for  the  seams  or  the  brim,  which  must  be  left  on  to  suit  the  rivets 
which  are  to  be  used  in  the  side  seams  and  the  width  of  the  brim 
required  for  the  light  c:urse,  a  part  of  which  would  be  taken  from 
the  depth,  as  the  side  w^uld  not  reach  the  lag  of  the  bottom  by  some 
2  or  3  inches,  for  which  allowance  must  also  be  made  We  now  come 
to  the  bottom.  To-day  they  may  be  had  already  milled  up  in  one 
piece  of  any  size  or  strength  up  to  15  feet  in  diameter.  But  when 
I  was  a  boy  there  was  no  machinery  then  in  existence  of  such  capac- 
ity ;  hence  it  was  necessary  to  make  large  bottoms  by  hand  in  four,  five 
and  sometimes  more  pieces.  Figs.  448  and  449.  But  we  will  suppose 
that  we  have  the  bottom  supplied  to  use  in  one  piece,  and  let  it  be  7 
inches  deep.  Now,  the  first  thing  is  to  put  the  bottom  in  shape  for 
planishing — that  is,  form  the  crown,  as  shown  in  Fig.  450,  by  hollowing 
in  the  hollowing  tub.    This  hollowing  tub.  Fig.  447,  as  we  call  it,  is  a 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


J^ig.  451. —  Cro7vning  Bottoin  in  Hollowing  Tub. 


Fig.  452. — Planishing  Bottom. 


289 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  453. — Copper  oti  7  resiles.  Ready  for  Working. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


290 


291 


ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


wooden  ring  like  a  washtub  without  a  bottom,  made  of  oak  staves  about 
2^  inches  thick,  about  2  feet  high  and  from  3  to  4  feet  in  diameter, 
taper,  and  supported  by  three  stout  hoops,  which  are  bolted  to  their 
places  affer  the  wood  has  shrunk  sufficiently.  The  bottom  is  laid  over 
the  tub  bottom  side  up.  Fig.  451,  and  two  men  with  large  mauls  or  ham- 
mers sink  the  bottom  in  the  tub,  while  another  man  guides  the  bottom 
on  the  tub  with  the  iron  dog  D,  shown  in  Fig.  452.  When  the  bottom 
fits  the  template  it  is  turned  the  right  side  up  and  the  planishing  is  be- 
gun, which  is  done  as  sh^wn  in  Fig.  452.  A  suitable  large  head  is  placed 
in  a  block  and  the  bottom  is  then  smeared  all  over  on  the  outside  with 
wet  plumbago,  also  the  surface  of  the  block  on  which  the  bottom  rests, 
so  that  the  bottom  will  slide  about  with  ease  while  the  planishing  is  go- 
ing on.  The  inside  is  rubbed  all  over  with  either  wet  or  dry  Spanish 
brown,  so  that  the  blows  may  be  plainly  seen.  When  the  planishing  has 
been  completed,  the  bottom  is  placed  on  two  or  more  suitable  trestles, 
Fig.  453,  and  after  marking  the  holes  the  proper  distance  apart,  the 
rivet  holes  are  punched  in  the  bottom  with  a  punch  placed  in  a  chisel 
rod  and  the  hammer  while  a  man  holds  a  bolster,  on  the  outside 
(the  bolster  a  explains  itself).  Then  all  three  sides,  which  have  been 
previously  prepared — that  is,  bellied  or  hollowed  and  planished,  Fig„ 
454— arct  placed  in  position  and  secured  with  bolts.  Then  the  head  is 
taken  out  of  the  block  and  put  into  a  sling,  Fig.  453,  and  one  man 
holds  the  head  in  position  inside  while  two  others,  opposite  each  other 
outside,  work  in  the  rivets,  first  with  long-handled  cross-peined  ham- 
mers, <r,  and  finishing  with  hammer  b.  The  light  course  is  now  prepared, 
the  sides  of  which  may  be  brazed  or  riveted  together,  as  desired,  when, 
after  planishing,  the  holes  are  punched  in  the  bottom  edge,  and  then 
the  course  is  set  in  its  place  on  the  copper  brim  and  the  rivet  holes 
punched  through  the  riveting  edge  into  a  small  bolster  and  the  rivets 
worked  in  with  short-handle  hand  hammers.  The  pipe  or  outlet  is  next 
worked  in  and  all  finished  up  complete. 

The  same  methods  which  are  here  described  may  be  used  for  build- 
ing a  vessel  of  any  number  of  pieces  in  the  side  or  of  any  shape.  In 
Fig.  455  is  shown  a  large  open  copper,  with  a  light  course,  completed 
ready  for  use,  and  about  to  be  set  in  its  future  resting  place.  This 
vessel  was  built  in  1891  by  Messrs.  Shears  &  Co.  of  Bank-side,  Lon- 
don, and  is  said  to  be  the  largest  copper  ever  built  in  England.  It 
has  a  capacity  of  36,000  English  gallons.    This  large  vessel  was  built 


Fig.  455. — Large  Open  Copper  with  Light  Course. 


293 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


for  Ind,  Coope  &  Co.  The  reader  can  get  an  excellent  idea  of  its 
construction,  as  well  as  its  immense  size.  The  size  of  the  rivets 
should  be  noticed,  the  proportion  of  the  copper  proper  to  the  light 
course,  and  then  the  three  iron  bands  placed  around  the  light  course  to 
strengthen  it  ;  also  that  the  wall  at  the  end  of  the  building  has  been 
taken  down  to  let  it  into  its  place.  This  is  a  very  interesting  and  in- 
structive illustration  for  these  engaged  in  this  kind  of  work. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING.  294 


DOME  COPPERS. 

Dome  coppers,  as  will  be  seen  Fig.  456,  are  made  similar  to  open 
ones,  the  dome  being  substituted  for  the  light  course.  Let  us  suppose 
we  have  a  copper  ready  for  a  dome,  and  it  is  required  to  make  a  dome 
and  work  it  on  to  the  copper.  As  I  have  said  before,  a  dome  may  now 
be  had  in  one  piece,  but  were  this  not  the  case,  then  it  must  be  made 
in  pieces,  and  these  must  conform  to  the  size  of  the  sheets  at  hand. 
Now,  let  the  size  at  the  brim  be  as  in  the  last  example,  namely  :  97.63 
inches  in  diameter,  and  the  brim  or  dome  seat  3^2  inches  wide,  with  a 
riveting  edge  turned  up  2  inches  deep,  and  the  dome  a  half  sphere,  made 
in  four  pieces.  To  obtain  the  pattern  for  this  we  proceed  as  follows  : 
The  diameter  inside  the  turned-up  dome  seat  or  riveting  edge  A  B, 

Fig.  457,  will  be  104.63  inches.     Then  ^^^'^^  =  52.31,  and  i/  52.31  x  2 

2 

=  73.98  or  C  B  ;  that  is  to  say,  it  equals  the  side  of  the  inscribed 
square  of  a  circle,  A  B,  whose  diameter  is  104.63  inches,  or  the  diameter 
inside  the  riveting  edge,  represented  by  the  circle  D  C  A  N  B.  Now, 

73-98  =  ^^  gg^  or  one-half  the  chord  C  B  of  the  arc  C  D  B,  or  F  B,  and 
2 

one-half  the  diameter  DE  —  FE  =  DF;  that  is  to  say,  52.31   — . 

 2    2   I   ?   ?   » 

36.99  =  15.32,  and  FB+DF  =  D  B,  or  36.99  +  15.32  =  40  30  ;  that 
is,  it  equals  the  chord  D  B  of  half  the  arc  C  D  B  ;  but  D  G  equals  D  B, 

and  D  B  minus  one  half  of  D  F  Vthat  is,  D  Hj  equals  H  G,  or  DG  -  DH. 

2 

HG 


H  G,  which  is  40.30  —  7.66  =  39.42.    Then  +  D  H  =  D  N 


Qj-  39-4^    ^  _  209.25,  or  the  diameter  of  a  circle  of  which  the 

7.66 

curve  of  each  side  of  the  pattern  is  a  part.  Now  construct  a  triangle 
on  K  G  (that  is,  on  O  P,  Fig.  458,  which  equals  K  G),  and  with  D 

N  or  104.62  or  ^^li^    (that  is,  the  diameter  of  the  dome  seat)  as  radius 


295 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


^^S-  459- — Illustrated  Lesson  by  an  Orange. 


297 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


describe  the  arcs  about  the  triangle  O  P  Q,  as  shown  in  Fig.  458.  Then 
at  one  corner,  O,  of  the  pattern,  with  a  radius,  O  R,  equal  to  one-half  the 
diameter  of  the  crown  pipe,  mark  out  the  hole  for  it,  making  the 
hole  so  that  when  complete  it  will  be  about  20  inches  in  diameter, 
which  will  then  complete  the  pattern  required  of  one  of  the  four 
sections  of  the  dome.  Now,  having  the  pattern  and  the  four  pieces 
cut  out  by  it,  bend  an  iron  template  to  the  curve  of  a  radius  of  48.81 
inches,  and  take  the  sections  to  the  hollowing  tub  and  hollow  them 
until  they  fit  the  template  every  way,  after  which  planish  them 
in  a  promiscuous  way  on  a  suitable  head  placed  in  a  solid  block. 
Then  punch  them  and  place  them  in  position  in  the  seat,  remem- 
bering to  have  the  crown  pipe  also  in  position  before  the  last  quarter  of 
the  dome  is  put  finally  into  its  place.  Next  bolt  them  together 
in  succession.  The  manhole  may  be  prepared  and  fixed  to  the  last 
quarter  before  placing,  or  it  may  be  worked  on  after,  at  the  discretion 
of  the  workman  or  employer.  Put  three  or  four  temporary  rivets  in 
each  seam  of  the  dome  and  in  the  seat  at  each  seam,  and  one  or  two 
between.  We  are  now  ready  to  work  in  the  rivets,  which  may  be  done 
in  a  similar  manner  to  that  described  and  illustrated  for  an  open  cop- 
per with  a  light  course. 

I  wish  here  to  make  a  suggestion  for  the  benefit  of  the  boy  who  may 
have  occasion  to  peruse  these  pages  in  the  hope  of  finding  the  assist- 
ance he  is  in  search  of,  because  I  think  this  is  one  of  the  most  appro- 
priate places  which  has  suggested  itself,  where  we  can  take  a  practical 
lesson  from  nature.  Fig.  459  is  the  picture  of  an  orange  with  the  rind 
peeled  off  from  three-fourths  of  the  upper  half  of  it,  one-fourth  being 
left  on  to  illustrate  a  part  of  our  lesson.  Lying  apart  from  the  orange 
are  the  three-fourths  of  the  rind  which  have  been  taken  off.  One  piece 
is  lying  with  the  concave  or  flesh  side  of  the  skin  upward  and  one  with 
the  concave  side  down  and  one  lying  perfectly  flat.  Now  let  us  care- 
fully consider  these  three  pieces  of  rind  in  relation  to  the  lesson  under 
consideration.  Let  the  upper  half  of  the  rind  of  this  orange  represent 
the  dome  of  the  copper  in  the  next  example,  and  let  the  dome  be 
made  in  four  pieces,  as  before.  It  will  be  readily  seen  that  the  four 
pieces  of  orange  rind,  after  being  removed  from  the  orange,  show  in 
miniature  :  i,  the  exact  shape  of  the  pattern  ;  2,  the  exact  shape  it 
should  be  when  hollowed  and  planished,  and,  3,  the  position  of  the  first 
piece  when  it  is  placed  in  the  riveting  edge  on  the  copper  brim.  Now, 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


298 


if  we  conceive  the  edges  for  riveting  to  have  been  left  on  at  two  sides 
of  the  pattern,  then  the  rivet  holes  of  the  seam  would  come  down  the 
line  of  division  where  the  rind  of  the  orange  has  been  cut.  With  a 
little  study  this  should  be  plainly  understood.  We  will  now  proceed 
to  find  the  shape  and  size  of  this  pattern,  as  suggested  to  us  by  the 
orange  rind.  Let  the  diameter  C  M  of  a  spherical  dome  or  an  orange. 
Fig.  457,  be  88  inches  in  the  present  example.  Describe  the  circle  A 
C  B  M  to  some  easy  scale  that  would  represent  a  large-sized  orange, 
say  inch  to  a  foot,  and  divide  its  circumference  into  four  equal 
parts,  A  C,  C  B,  B  M  and  M  A  ;  then  the  diameter  of  the  circle  C  M 
is  -ff  inch,  or  5^  inches.  Now  draw  the  diameters  A  B  and  C  M,  and 
join  C  B  ;  then  the  arc  C  D  B  represents  the  bend  of  either  side  of  the 
section  when  hollowed  to  fit  the  surface  of  the  orange.  Draw  D  B,  which 
represents  the  chord  of  half  the  arc  C  D  B.  Now  divide  D  F  in  two 
equal  parts  at  H,  and  through  H  draw  K  H  G,  parallel  to  C  F  B  ;  then 
with  D  B  as  radius  and  D  as  center  describe  the  arcs  B  G  and  C  K,  cut- 
ting K  H  G  in  K  and  G  ;  then  K  G  represents  the  true  length  of  the 
side  of  a  triangle,  O  P,  Fig.  460  ;  that  is,  from  point  to  point,  when  the 
section  is  lying  flat  the  same  as  the  orange  rind  in  the  picture,  the  line 
D  B  having  remained  the  same  as  it  was  before  the  section  was  flat- 
tened and  made  a  plane  by  being  pressed  down  level.  Here,  then,  we 
have  the  length  K  G  of  one  side  of  a  triangle  lying  within  the  pattern 
O  P,  Fig.  460,  and  we  find  by  actual  measurement  that  the  line  K  G  is 
full  4^  inches,  which,  being  multiplied  by  16,  is  66  inches  (or  more 
correctly,  66.1).  Now  bisect  P  Q  in  S,  and  through  S  draw  O  S  and 
continue  it  to  T,  making  S  T  equal  to  D  H,  Fig.  457,  or  one-half  of  D 
F  ;  and  draw  the  lines,  or  chords,  T  P  and  T  Q  ;  and  bisect  these  chords 
perpendicularly  with  lines  meeting  in  U.  Then  from  the  point  of  in- 
tersection of  these  lines  at  U,  with  the  distance  U  Q,  U  T  or  U  P 
(which  is  5.5  inches,  and  this  multiplied  by  16  gives  88  ;  the  first,  the 
diameter  of  the  orange,  and  the  second,  that  of  the  dome),  describe  the 
arcs  O  P,  P  Q,  Q  O.  Now,  with  O  R  as  radius,  describe  the  arc  W  V 
for  the  crown  pipe  hole,  and  W  P  Q  V  is  the  pattern  of  one  section  of 
the  dome,  as  before,  but  without  riveting  edge,  which  must  be  left  on 
the  two  sides  W  P  and  Q  V. 

There  are  very  many  useful  lessons  that  may  be  learned  in  a  similar 
way  to  that  suggested  here  by  the  rind  of  an  orange,  if  the  student  is 
apt  and  is  of  an  inquiring  turn  of  mind. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


u 


Fig.  460. — Second  Method  of  Obtaining  Pattern. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


300 


DOME  AND  PAN  COPPERS. 

Dome  and  pan  coppers  are  a  combination  of  the  other  two  coppers 
we  have  been  treating  of,  combined  in  one  apparatus,  with  some  few 
additions,  such  as  the  valves  at  the  top  of  the  chimney  and  the  two  side 
pipes  to  convey  the  overflow  into  the  pan  should  the  liquor  in  the  cop- 
per tend  to  boil  over;  also  to  convey  the  steam  generated  in  the  copper 
into  the  liquor  which  may  have  been  placed  in  the  pan  to  be  heated.  It 
will  be  seen  that  the  pan  bottom  is  made  separate,  and  when  formed 
ready  the  inner  edge  is  fitted  to  the  sides,  with  the  edge  of  the  dome 
crown  (except  when  the  dome  is  in  one  piece,  when  the  pan  would  be 
worked  on  the  dome,  as  shown  in  Fig.  461),  and  then  all  three  are  riv- 
eted secure,  and  the  rivets  scrubbed  up  so  that  the  heads  are  all  smooth 
and  even  with  the  inner  side.  The  inlet  pipes  are  made  of  a  suitable 
size,  as  in  N,  and  connected  by  flanges  with  the  pan  bottom  and  the 
side  of  the  copper.  At  the  upper  end  of  the  inlet  pipes  and  on  the  in- 
side of  the  pan  bottom  is  bolted  a  screw  valve.  Fig.  462,  which  is  secured 
to  its  place  by  the  same  bolts  that  hold  the  pipe  flange  to  the  pan  bot- 
tom. When  the  pan  bottom  and  crown  (if  the  dome  is  made  in  pieces)  have 
been  worked  in  the  manhole  H,  Fig.  461,  and  the  inlet  pipes  also  com- 
pleted, then  the  sides  of  the  pan  may  be  put  up  into  position  and  the 
rivets  worked  in.  The  screw  valves  are  now  applied  with  a  rod  and  J- 
handle  with  which  to  open  and  close  them,  the  rod  being  held  in  po- 
sition by  a  bracket,  B,  bolted  to  the  side  of  the  pan.  Any  good  work- 
man who  has  made  a  large  open  or  d  me  copper  should  be  competent, 
after  studying  the  preceding  pages  and  the  accompanying  illustrations, 
to  build  a  dome  and  pan  successfully.  I  shall  therefore  let  the  direc- 
tions given  for  the  building  of  the  other  two  styles  suffice  for  that  of  a 
dome  and  pan,  and  thus  avoid  repetition  as  much  as  possible. 


Fig.  ^62.— Screw  Valve. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


302 


TALLOW  COPPERS. 

In  Fig.  463  is  shown  a  tallow  copper.  These  vessels  were  made  for 
and  used  by  tallow  chandlers,  whose  principal  use  for  them  at  one  time 
was  in  manufacturing  tallow  candles.  Tallow  coppers  are  an  extra 
good  job,  because  of  the  greater  care  necessary  to  make  them  sound — 
that  is  to  say,  perfectly  tight  and  not  liable  to  leak.  These  coppers 
were  at  one  time  in  great  demand,  when  all  England  burned  candles 
much  more  so  than  now.  But  there  is  yet  an  occasional  demand  for 
one,  because  tallow  is  still  used  for  many  other  purposes  besides  that  of 
making  candles,  and  the  shape  of  this  copper  is  better  adapted  for  the 
use  of  rendering  out  tallow  than  any  other,  as  the  curve  or  spherical 
shape  of  the  sides  tends  to  throw  the  fat  that  boils  up  the  sides  toward 
the  center,  which  partially  accounts  for  its  peculiar  shape,  as  compared 
with  coppers  for  some  other  purposes.  This  copper  has  a  wide  brim,  so 
that  any  slopping  or  drainings  may  be  conveyed  back  into  the  copper 

Note. — In  this  connection  some  piece  work  prices  for  coppersmith's  work  paid  ju  London 
will  be  of  interest  : 

Brewing  coppers,  S}4  cents  per  pound  for  men ;  one-half  the  price  for  boyo. 

Tieches  for  planishing-  general,  2  cents  for  men  ;  one-half  the  price  for  boys, 

Four-inch  worms,  4  cents  per  pound  for  man  and  boy. 

Retorts,  6  cents  per  pound  for  man  and  boy. 

Stills,  S}4  cents  per  pound,  metal  as  well. 

Middle  pieces,  4  cents  per  pound  for  brazed  seams. 

Four-inch  tee-pieccs,  $1  each  for  men  ;  50  cents  for  boys. 

Three-inch  tee-pieces,  75  cents  each  for  men  ;  37]4  cents  for  boys. 

Four-inch  bend  complete,  83  cents  each  for  men  ;  411^  cents  for  boys. 

Three  and  one-half-inch  bend  complete,  64  cents  each  for  men ;  33  cents  for  boys. 

Three-inch  bend  complete,  50  cents  each  for  men,  25  cents  for  boys. 

Two-inch  bend  complete,  S7}4  cents  each  for  men  ;  18  cents  for  boys. 

Worms,  when  two  men  work  at  them,  8  cents  ;  when  a  man  and  boy  work  at  them,  6  cents. 

The  time  usually  consumed  putting  up  sides  into  bottom  of  a  300-barrel  copper  by  two  men 
inside  and  three  outside,  two  and  one-half  days.  Punching  holes,  in  bout,  three  men  inside  and 
two  outside,  one  and  one-half  days  each. 

Setting-to  105  holes,  two  men  one  day.  Setting-to  20  holes  in  seam  and  working  in  20  No.  2 
nails,  with  one  man  inside  and  two  outside,  three  hours. 

Working  one  seam  of  20  nails,  three  men,  one  day.  Working  one  bout  of  15  nails.  No.  1, 
three  men,  one  day. 

Time  consumed  taking  off  old  bottom  from  a  dyer's  copper  and  putting  on  new  one,  the 
new  bottom  weighing  140  pounds,  38  inches  in  diameter  and  9  inches  deep.  Cutting  out  old 
bottom  and  annealing  sides  and  planishing,  ten  hours.  Planishing  new  bottom,  seven  hours. 
Putting  up  block,  punching  holes,  bolting  together  and  working  in  40  No.  4  nails, 'nine  hours. 
Scrubbing  up  new  bottom,  eight  hours.   Total  time  for  job,  three  days  four  hours. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  464. — Section  through  Broad-Brim  Tallow  Copper,. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


by  it.  They  are  made  sometimes  with  narrow  brims,  in  which  case  the 
broad  brim  is  substituted  by  one  made  of  lead,  covering  the  whole  of 
the  brick  work  on  its  top  surface  about  the  brim,  and  turning  down 
over  it  on  the  inside  of  the  copper  from  2  to  3  inches,  which,  in  some 
cases,  is  preferable,  because,  then,  none  of  the  tallow  can  penetrate  the 
brick  work  from  the  top. 

Let  us  make  one  of  these  broad-brimmed  tallow  coppers,  and  let  the 
sides  be  made  from  a  sheet  of,  say,  35-pound  plate,  or  about  1-16  inch 
in  thickness,  to  hold  200  gallons,  and  let  its  sides  be  in  three  pieces  and 
the  bottom  in  one.  It  will  be  noticed  that  this  vessel,  Fig.  463,  is 
spherical  in  form,  the  body  being  made  up  of  the  middle  zone  and  the 
bottom  segment,  the  other  or  top  segment  being  absent  to  form  the 
brim  or  copper  mouth.  Now,  the  first  thing  we  must  do  is  to  find  the 
size  of  a  vessel  of  this  shape  that  will  hold  200  gallons,  which  we  will 
now  proceed  to  do  as  follows  :  It  is  well  known  that  a  spherical  inch  is 
represented  by  0.5236,  but  the  copper  is  a  sphere  with  a  segment  cut  off 
equal  in  hight  to  one  quarter  of  the  diameter  of  the  sphere  (see  Fig.  464), 
and  the  value  of  this  segment  cut  off  is  0.08181  ;  therefore,  0.5236  — 
0.08181  =  0.4417.  Now,  there  are  277.274  inches  in  a  gallon  (English 
measure),   therefore,    277.274  x  200  =  55,454.80   cubic    inches,  and 

55>454-8q  _  125,548;  when,  extracting  the  cube  root  of  125,548,  we  get  50 
0.4417 

inches  as  the  diameter  A  B  of  the  middle  zone  of  the  copper  when  ready 
for  the  bottom.  If  Fig.  464  be  drawn  to  a  scale  of  ^  inch  to  a  foot,  it 
will  be  found  that  from  C  to  B  is  47  inches,  from  D  to  E  is  25,  from  F 
to  E  is  4  inches,  and  from  D  to  G  3  inches.  Adding  these  last  three 
dimensions  together,  we  have  25  +  4  +  3  =  32  inches  for  the  depth 
of  the  sides  before  working,  and  the  diameter  C  B  47  inches,  when  47 
X  3.1416  =  147.6552,  and  147.6552  divided  by  3,  the  number  of  sides  to 
be  used,  we  have  49.2184,  or  4gj{  inches.  To  this  we  add  2  inches  to 
each  piece  for  seams,  when  we  get  51^  inches  for  the  length  of  each 
side,  including  edges,  and  32  inches  deep,  including  brim  and  lap  for  the 
bottom  seam.  Now  we  find  the  size  the  disk  should  be  for  the  bottom 
before  hollowing,  as  follows  :  It  was  stated  in  a  former  chapter  that  the 
surface  of  a  sphere  is  equal  to  its  circumscribed  cylinder,  and  therefore 
the  surface  of  any  segment  of  a  sphere  is  equal  to  the  diameter  of  the 
sphere  multiplied  by  the  hight  of  the  segment,  multiplied  by  3.1416  ;  or 
the  surface  of  a  sphere  is  equal  to  four  disks  whose  diameter  is  equal  to 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


the  diameter  of  the  sphere.  From  which  we  get  50  x  12.5  x  4  =  2500^ 
and  extracting  the  square  root  we  get  50  inchts  for  the  diameter  of  the 
disk  to  form  the  bottom  before  hollowing,  or  |/  x  12.5  x  4-  Now 
we  have  the  sides  and  bottom,  and  require  the  broad  brim,  which  is 
obtained  as  follows  :  The  brim  when  completed  with  a  ^-inch  wire  in 
the  outer  edge  should  measure  10  inches  or  thereabouts  from  E  to  K, 
Fig.  464.  Now  the  wiring  edge  at  K  will  take  1%  inches,  and  will 
reach  and  lap  at  N  2  inches,  which  will  make  the  brim  before  working 
io}4  inches  wide.  Then  the  diameter  of  the  brim  from  K  to  M  when 
complete  before  wiring  is  66  inches,  and  forms  a  frustum  of  a  cone,  the 
slant  hight  of  which  is  H  M,  or  34.5  ;  that  is,  x y,  Fig.  465.  With  the 
radius 7  x  from  as  center  describe  the  circle  x  w  v  u  making  the  dis- 
tance around  it  from  x  to  s  equal  to  the  circumference  of  a  circle  whose 
diameter  is  K  M,  or  66  inches.  Now  66  x  3.1416  =  207.24  and  69  x 
3.1416  =  216.66  and  216.66  —  207.24  =  9.42,  or  9}^  inches  nearly  ;  that  is 
to  say,  the  segment  s  y  x  from  s  to  x,  which  would  be  taken  out,  is  equal 
to  9^  inches  nearly.  The  brim  may  be  put  on  in  any  number  of  pieces. 
In  this  case  let  there  be  four  ;  then  s  u  a  b  \^  one  section  of  the  brim  bare. 
Adding  2  inches  on  for  riveting  edge,  the  pattern  is  complete  and  will 
measure  from  to  d  56.16,  and  from  a  to  c  38.09,  and  from  c  to  d  10.5 
inches.  Here  we  have  all  the  patterns  and  will  now  begin  to  put  them  in 
shape  :  First,  the  bottom,  by  taking  it  to  a  hollowing  tub,  and  with  suit- 
able mauls  sink  it  in  the  tub  until  it  is  hollowed  enough  ;  that  is,  until  it 
measures  across  it  46  inches.  Then  mark  the  rivet  holes  for  about  No. 
I  or  No.  2  wrought  copper  rivets,  and  space  the  holes  so  that  the  edges 
of  the  rivet  heads  are  about  ^  inch  apart.  The  sides  are  next  in  order. 
These  will  be  put  together  with  No.  3  or  No.  4  rivets,  and  the  heads  about 
^  inch  apart  and  reaching  to  within  ]^  inch  of  the  lap  edge.  When 
the  sides  have  been  punched  bend  them  into  shape  and  put  in  a  few 
temporary  rivets  ;  take  a  racer  and  divide  the  depth  into  three  spaces 
and  proceed  to  raze  in  both  ends  ;  the  bottom  end  right  out  to  the  end, 
the  top  end  to  within  4  inches,  making  the  lower  end  fit  into  the  bot- 
tom about  3^  inches,  and  drawing  the  top  end  out  until  it  measures  43 
inches  at  4  inches  from  the  end,  when  the  brim  is  thrown  back  for  the 
additional  wide  brim.  While  the  two  ends  are  being  worked  in  the 
sides  are  put  on  the  tub  at  the  end  of  each  course,  and  hollowed  out 
to  complete  the  spherical  curve  of  the  body.  Now  we  form  the  brim  by 
putting  the  four  pieces  together  and  wiring  the  edges  with  a  ^-inch 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


Fig.  ifd^.— Pattern  of  Brim. 


307  ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING.  . 

iron  ring.  The  workmen  may  now  select  which  is  more  convenient  to 
him,  and  first  put  on  the  brim  or  the  bottom.  If  the  brim  is  first  put 
on,  carefully  scrub  the  rivets  and  make  the  surface  smooth  about  the 
rivet  heads,  and  work  the  seam  edge  carefully  down  close,  then  the 
same  with  the  bottom.  It  is  usual  to  rub  the  seam  well  with  white  lead 
and  oil  on  the  inside  after  the  job  is  finished. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


308 


DYERS'  COPPERS. 

Dyers'  coppers,  as  compared  with  some  others,  are  not  a  difficult 
job,  which  will  be  readily  seen  by  referring  to  Fig.  466.  A  dyers'  cop- 
per is  made  with  a  cylindrical  body  and  a  segment  of  a  sphere  for  a 
bottom.  The  sides  are  usually  made  in  two  pieces,  and  the  bottom  in 
one.  These  coppers  may  be  made  with  a  broad  or  narrow  brim,  similar 
to  that  of  a  tallow  copper  ;  or  they  may  be  supplied  with  a  lead  apron 
to  catch  and  convey  the  drip  and  slopping,  which  is  always  a  contingent 
circumstance  in  the  dyers'  art.  Let  us  make  a  dyers'  copper  to  hold  150 
gallons  American  standard.  Now,  we  have  learned  by  experience  that 
the  easiest  way  to  build  this  vessel  is  to  make  the  bottom  one-fourth 
the  depth  and  the  sides  three-fourths,  without  the  brim,  although  this, 
like  all  others,  may  be  made  any  style  or  shape  to  suit  the  taste  or  con- 
venience of  the  purchaser.  But  we  will  suppose  the  sides  needed  are 
three-fourths  the  depth  and  the  bottom  one-fourth.  An  American  gal- 
lon equals  231  cubic  inches,  and  231  x  150  =  34,650,  or  the  number  of 
inches  in  150  gallons,  and  we  have  0.7854,  which  repressnts  a  cylindri- 
cal inch  ;  then  x  3  =  0.58905,  or  %  cylindrical  inch.  The  value 
4 

of  a  segment  of  a  sphere  whose  hight  is  one-fourth  its  diameter  is 
0.08181,  and  adding  this  to  the  value  of  ^  cylindric  inch  we  have  0.58905 
+  0.08181  =  0.67086,  the  value  of  the  figure  which  represents  a  dyers' 
copper.    Then  34,650      0.67086  =  51,649.964,  and  extracting  the  cube 

root  of  this  last  result  we  have  37.3  as  the  diameter  or  4/  ^^^^^  =  3.73  ; 

^  0.67086 

that  is  to  say  37^^  inches  is  the  diameter  of  the  sides,  and  x  3  = 

4 

27-975,   or    28    inches   is    the   depth    nearly,   without   seams,  and 

37-3  ^  3-14^6  _  58.5858,  the  length  of  one  side.    Add  to  each  side  say 
2 

2^  inches  to  the  length  for  seams,  and  we  have  58.5858  +  2.5  =  60.0858. 
which  we  should  call  in  practice  60  inches.  Now,  we  must  add  3  inches 
for  the  brim,  and  we  have  27.975  4-  3  =  30.975,  or  31  inches  nearly.  Let 


309 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


the  sides  be  60  inches  long  and  31  inches  deep.  The  bottom  is  obtained 
as  follows:  I/37.3  x  12.325  x  4  =  42.88;  that  is  to  say,  the  diameter  of 
the  copper  multiplied  by  one  fourth  the  hight,  together  with  3  inches 
added  for  the  bottom  seam,  multiplied  by  four,  and  the  square  root  of 
this  last  result  is  42^  inches,  or  the  diameter  of  the  bottom  before 
hollowing. 

We  are  now  ready  to  hollow  the  bottom,  mark  and  punch  it, 
also  to  prepare  the  sides  for  putting  together  in  the  same  way.  In 
the  building  of  this  copper  we  may  use  cast  or  wrought  rivets  ;  let 
us  use  cast.  I  should  here  state  that  the  sizes  of  cast  rivets  are  des- 
ignated the  opposite  way  to  that  of  wrought — that  is.  No.  o  is  the 
largest  size  in  wrought  rivets,  which  run  from  o  to  8,  while  8  is  the 
largest  cast  rivet,  which  run  from  8  to  o.  Fig.  467  shows  the  shape  and 
sizes  of  both  wrought  and  cast.  (We  usually  call  the  wrought  ones 
nails  to  distinguish  them  from  cast  rivets.)  Take  the  bottom  and  wrin- 
kle it  regularly  around  the  edge  ;  then  sink  it  in  the  hollowing  tub, 
and  work  out  the  wrinkles  carefully  until  the  diameter  is  the  size  re- 
quired ;  smooth  up  and  planish.  Now  work  and  punch  the  sides  and 
bend  them  to  shape,  and  put  three  temporary  rivets  into  each  seam  ; 
then  with  a  racer  mark  off  the  depth  of  the  brim  and  run  around 
it  with  a  hammer,  Fig.  468,  to  harden  it  at  the  turn,  and  then  lay 
off  the  brim.  Draw  in  the  other  end  at  the  sides  to  fit  the  bottom, 
Fig.  469,  and  planish  the  sides  on  the  horse  as  shown  in  Fig.  470,  and 
work  in  the  seam  rivets.  Scrub  and  finish  the  seam,  making  the  surface 
of  the  seam  inside  smooth.  Mark  and  punch  the  holes  for  the  bottom 
seam,  after  which  set  the  sides  into  the  bottom  evenly  all  round,  and 
mark  the  holes  in  the  bottom  by  the  sides,  and  punch  the  bottom.  Put 
the  sides  back  in  the  same  place,  and  put  into  the  bottom  seam  a  fev/ 
temporary  rivets.  Now  work  them  in  all  round  the  bottom  seam,  per- 
forming the  work  on  the  horse.  When  they  are  all  in,  scrub  them  up  tight 
until  the  inside  is  smooth,  after  which  head  up  the  rivets  outside  and 
finish. 


ART 


OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


TIECHES. 

Sugar  tieches  were  made  the  same  as  a  tallow  copper,  excepting 
that  heavier  material  was  used,  and  the  brim  usually  made  narrow,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  471.  They  can  now  be  made  in  one  piece,  but  where  this 
is  not  possible  the  same  rules  and  directions  given  for  tallow  coppers 
may  be  used,  and  will  be  found  as  useful  for  tieches  and  all  other  ves- 
sels of  this  shape  as  for  tallow  coppers,  due  allowance  always  being 
made  for  seams,  as  suggested  in  the  directions  given. 


Fig.  471. — Sugar  Tiech. 


313  ART   OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


STILLS. 

Copper  stills  are  and  have  been  in  continual  demand  for  many  years 
and  are  likly  to  be,  seeing  that  there  are  so  many  uses  to  which  they 
may  be  put  in  the  manufacture  of  the  many  commercial  commodities 
which  depend  upon  the  process  of  distillation.  Stills  are  made  from 
1000  to  5000  gallons  capacity,  according  to  the  uses  for  which  they  are 
required.  The  largest,  however,  are  used  for  the  purpose  of  distilling 
spirits,  such  as  gin,  rum  and  brandy.  These  large  stills  will  occupy  our 
attention.  In  Fig.  472  is  shown  a  squat  or  fire  still  with  head  and 
worm.  This  apparatus  is  usually  made  in  three  sections — that  is  to  say, 
the  still  boiler,  the  head,  and  then  the  worm,  which  together  complete 
the  still  proper.  But  they  are  often  supplemented  with  retorts  of  vari- 
ous designs,  the  most  common  of  which  is  shown  in  Fig.  472.  These 
retorts  are  used  for  rectifying  purposes,  and  there  are  sometimes  several 
interposed  between  the  still  and  the  worm,  according  to  the  degree  of 
rectification  required.  As  ail  large  stills  are  made  nearly  the  same  pat- 
tern, we  will  make  one  as  an  example  or  guide  for  ascertaining  the  di- 
mensions and  pattern  of  those  most  in  use  and  then  consider  their  con- 
struction. Let  our  example  be  required  to  hold  500  gallons.  It  will  be 
seen  by  reference  to  Fig.  472  that  the  outline  or  design  of  the  body  of 
the  still  boiler  is  that  of  an  oblate  spheroid — that  is,  down  to 
the  lag  of  the  bottom,  when  the  bottom  is  reversed  or  pressed  up- 
ward to  form  the  bottom  crown,  in  the  same  way  as  that  of  a  brewing 
copper.  Here,  in  the  case  of  a  still,  as  in  a  brewing  copper,  the  quan- 
tity displaced  by  the  crown  of  the  bottom  is  quite  an  item  in  the  capac- 
ity and  must,  therefore,  be  taken  into  account,  although  it  was  ignored 
in  the  case  of  large  brewing  coppers.  Our  body,  then  (that  is,  the 
boiler),  is  to  hold  500  English  gallons.  Now,  we  find  the  solid  contents 
of  a  spheroid  by  multiplying  the  square  of  the  revolving  axis  by  the 
fixed  axis  and  this  product  by  0.5236.  Here,  then,  we  have  the  key  to 
the  solution  of  the  various  problems  involved  in  the  sizes  or  dimen- 
sions we  should  make  the  still  boiler,  and  we  will  proceed  to  find  the 
diameter  and  hight  of  a  still  boiler  to  hold  500  gallons  (English  meas- 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING, 


ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 


316 


ure),  to  be  used  as  a  rule  to  find  any  or  all  others.  An  English  gallon 
contains  277. 274cubic  inches,  therefore  500  x  277.274=138,637.  Again, 
in  an  oblate  spheroid  whose  dimensions  are  fixed  in  the  proportions 
shown  in  Fig.  473 — namely,  two  and  a  half  diameters  of  the  focal  circles 
A  and  B  as  the  measure  of  the  transverse  axis  of  the  ellipse  which  forms 
the  outline  for  or  boundaries  of  the  spheroid,  and  whose  axis  is  C  D,  or 
is  I — the  value  of  its  solidity  is  found  by  the  rule  given  to  be  0.29362. 
The  spheroid,  however,  is  made  concave  on  the  under  side  to  form  the  lag 
and  crown  of  the  bbiler  bottom,  therefore  this  value  must  be  reduced  by 
the  value  of  the  spherical  segment  E  G  F,  Fig.  474,  which  vanishes, 
together  with  the  segment  E  H  F,  which  forms  the  bottom  crown  Now, 

a  a 

EKx3+GKxGKx  0.5236  =  9.02758,  the  solid  content  of  the  seg- 

a  2 

ment  H  E  F,  and  EKx3  +  HKxHKx  0.5236  =  0.02128,  the  solid 
content  of  the  segement  E  H  F,  or  the  segment  which  forms 
the  crown  of  the  boiler  bottom  ;  then  subtracting  the  value  of  these 
two  segments  from  the  whole  spheroid  we  have  0.29362  —  (0.02758 
+  0.02128)  =  0.24376,  or  the  value  of  solid  figures  whose  dimensions  are 
similar  to  or  like  that  of  a  still  boiler.  To  proceed:  The  solid  con 
tents  of  500  English  gallons  is  shown  above  to  be  138,637  cubic  inches  ; 
then  138,637  -5-  0.24376  =  568,743.805  boiler  inches,  and  extracting  the 
cube  root  of  this  last  result  we  have  82.85  inches  as  the  diameter  C  D 
of  a  slill  boiler  to  hold  500  gallons.  Now  we  want  the  depth,  H  N, 
Fig.  474,  which  we  find  by  multiplying  the  transverse  axis  C  D,  or  82.85, 
the  diameter  of  the  boiler,  by  0.3701;  that  is  to  say,  C  D  by  H  N,  or 
82.85  X  0.3701  =  30.6627.  We  thus  have  the  diameter  of  the  boiler, 
82.85,  or  6  feet  9  inches,  and  the  depth  from  the  bottom  crown  to  the 
head  collar,  30.6627,  or  2  feet  6^  inches.  For  the  pattern  proceed  as 
follows:  Through  S  F  and  T  E,  Fig.  474,  draw  the  lines  S  P  and  T  P, 
and  with  P  F  as  radius  describe  the  arc  F  M,  and  with  P  S  as  radius 
describe  the  arc  S  O,  making  the  distance  from  F  to  S  equal  to  26.028; 
that  is,  82.85  multiplied  by  one-fourth  of  the  circumference  of  the  focal 
circle.  The  length  of  each  one  of  the  sides  from  F  to  M  may  be  any 
convenient  length,  according  to  the  size  of  the  sheet  ;  but  for  the  sym- 
metry and  beauty  of  the  work  the  sides  should  be  all  alike  ;  that  is  to 
say,  either  three,  or  four,  or  any  other  suitable  number,  so  long  as  they 


317  ART  OF  COPPERSMITHING. 

are  all  alike  or  can  be  got  out  of  the  sheets  at  hand  without  waste. 
Now  take  sides  enough  so  that  when  they  are  put  together  they  will 
measure  83  inches  in  diameter  at  the  points  C  and  D  after  the  top  and 
bottom  have  been  tucked  in  to  form  the  bulge  or  curves  of  the  sides, 
and  let  the  sides,  when  ready  for  the  bottom,  go  into  the  raise  of  the 
bottom  within  about  2^  inches  of  the  bottom  lag.  The  first  section  of 
the  crown  from  S  to  B,  Fig.  475,  may  be  made  in  the  same  number  of 
pieces  as  the  sides  if  it  cannot  be  supplied  in  one  piece  with  the  bottom^ 
but  the  crown  pieces  are  usually  supplied.  Having  then  the  sides,  bot- 
tom and  crown,  the  workman  may  proceed  to  put  them  together  in  a 
similar  manner  to  that  described  for  the  building  of  large  brewing  cop- 
pers. I  should  here  say,  it  is  sometimes  better  to  cover  the  trestles 
with  boards  of  a  suitable  thickness  (if  at  hand),  which  will  add  firmness 
to  the  trestles  and  make  the  stage  more  complete.  The  illustration, 
Fig.  472,  fully  explains  itself  as  to  the  construction  of  the  still  head  and 
worm,  while  the  processes  or  methods  used  to  make  them  have  been 
explained  in  a  former  chapter  and  need  not  be  repeated. 


INDEX. 


Page. 

American  Copper  Mines   5 

Art  of  Light  Coppersmithing    6 

An  Old-fashioned  Shop   7 

Ancient  Frying  Pan   44 

Attaching  Outlets.     200 

Apparatus  for  Brazing  Brass   249 

Attemperator,  Round,  with  Coil   273  ♦ 

Attemperator  for  Fermenting  Back  275 

Brazier's  Art   6 

Bellied  Saucepans   18 

Benches  with  Forming  Bar  in  Position   25 

Bottom  Ready  to  Put  in  Hand  Bowl   38 

Boss  for  Outlet  Pipe  and  Cock     32 

Burnisher,  How  to  Use  It     58 

Blanks  Fastened  Together  for  Raising   46 

Bossing  Covers   66 

Beer  Mullers   71 

Break  at  Flange  and  How  to  Mend  It   197 

Black  Solder,  Never  Use  It  231 

Block  for  Shaping  Dome  Foot  262 

Burring  Pin   201 

Brazing  Barrels  on  Handles   59 

Bullet  Hammer       67 

Brazing  Pans    104 

Boiler  Hook  and  Rack  ...     108 

Boat  Coal  Scoop  ,   124 

Barge  Pump    156 

Bending  Block  and  Lever  184 

Block  and  Stake  for  Working  Bends     187 

Balloon  Fire  Pot   .  201 

Broken  View  of  Expansion  Joint  205 

Bent  Expansion  Joint      208 

Bend  Making.  224 

Bringing  Pipe  Halves  Together   225 

Bend  Wired  and  Slung  for  Fire  225 

318 


319 


INDEX. 


Brazing  on  Flanges  230 

Bends,  S   228 

Bends,  S,  at  Right  Angles     228 

Bends  in  Position  for  Brazing  228 

Bends,  Short,  How  to  Make  Them   232 

Brazing  Sheet  Brass  248 

Brass  Valve  Covers   254 

Brazing  a  Round  Joint   258 

Brass  Dome  Covers   261 

Brazing  in  Dome  Crown   267 

Boiling  Round  and  Coil   272 

Brewing  Coppers   .  282 

Copper  and  Its  Uses   2 

Copper  Mines   3 

Copper  Stove  Pipe   22 

Coal  Scoop  Handles   51 

Coffee  Pot  Handles   52 

Clamp  for  Tinning  Tea  Kettles     64 

Charger  or  Solder  Spoon   64 

Cup  for  Bossing  Covers.   66 

Collar  Set  ;   66 

Creasing  Hammer     73 

Covered  Muller   77 

Coffee  Pots   83 

Coal  Hod   123 

Coal  Scoop,  Plain     123 

Coal  Scoops  124 

Coal  Scoop  Making    128 

Coppersmiths'  Appliances    162 

Cutting  Cramps   172 

Clamps  to  Hold  Fire  Pots  in  Position   179 

Cod  and  Its  Uses    189 

Cross  Pieces  213,  214 

Chain  Hook  236 

Copper  with  Light  Course  283 

Crowning  a  Copper  Bottom  288 

Copper  in  Position  for  Building   289 

Duck-Bill  Tongs   39 

Die  for  Making  Tea  Kettle  Rings   59 

Dimensions  and  Weight  of  Coppers    70 

Diagram  of  Bend   189 

Double  Expansion  Joint  206 

Double  Bends  227 

Dogs  for  Securing  Sheet  236 

Diagram  for  Calculating  Curve  of  Side   284 


INDEX. 


320 


Dimensions  of  Hand  Bowls   35 

Dripping  Pan  and  Ladle  118 

Describing  Pattern  for  Bend    190 

Diagram  for  Flat  Coil  275 

Dome  Coppers  294 

Dome  and  Pan  Coppers  300 

Dyers'  Coppers   308 

Drawing  in  Bottom  of  Copper  Sides   309 

East  Side  of  Old  Shop   10 

Ears  for  Coal  Scoops  :   51 

Elevation  of  Still  Boiler  315 

Expansion  Joints  204 

Expansion  Joint  With  Round  Edges  206 

Eirst  Year's  Experience   14 

Filing  and  Finishing  Spouts   .  .    58 

Folding  Edges  on  Bench   23 

Forming  Body  of  Muller   73 

Forming  Lips  to  Mullers    75 

Funnels   ;   80 

Forming  Funnel  Body   81 

Finishing  a  Square  Lag   96 

Fish  Kettles   102 

Fish  Plates   103 

Forming  Breast  of  Tea  Boilers  ,   109 

Flat  Bottom  Coal  Scoop. . ,   123 

Florence  Coal  Scoop     124 

Forming  Trough  for  Making  Pipe    171 

Four  Styles  of  Tee  Pieces   209 

Four-Piece  Copper  Bottom   286 

Flange,  Broken,  How  to  Put  It  On  194 

Fire  Pots  177,  179,  181,  201 

Glue  Pots,  Making     61 

Glue  Pot  Cup   66 

Grommet  for  Bending    185 

Gauge  for  Marking    205 

Gusseting  Tee  Pieces   210 

Gusseting  Britch-Piece  212 

Historical  Sketch  of  Copper   1 

How  Hammering  is  Arranged   '   24 

Hand  Bowls,  Making   35 

Hand  Bowl,  Finished   39 

How  Wrinkles  are  Razed  Down   44 

Hollowing  Hammer     43 

Hand  Swage     49 

Handle  for  Large  and  Small  Muller    77 


32  1  INDEX. 

Head  and  Shank  for  Planishing   8^ 

Head  for  Working  Round  Lag   96 

How  to  Raise  Preserving  Pans  , , .  117 

How  to  Prepare  Patches     197 

How  to  Mend  Fracture     194 

How  to  Shng  Bends     225 

Hammers  and  Rack    239 

Hollow  Spheres      *  241 

Hollowing  Tub   286 

Heavy  Pipes  for  Breweries   270 

Horseshoe  Bend    .  271 

Horse  for  Planishing  Coppers   310 

Hammers,  Planishing   149 

Hammers,  Cross  Peined   29 

Hammers,  Riveting   35 

Hammers,  Peining     85 

Hammers,  Hollowing    43 

Hammers,  Razing   36 

Hammers,  Bullet   67  • 

Hammers,  Creasing   73 

Hammers,  Spring  Planishing   134 

Hammer?,  Spring  Faced   73^ 

Hammers,  Coffee  Pot     96 

Hammers  in  Rack  ,      239 

Instructive  Lesson  with  an  Orange  296 

Interior  View  of  Front  End  of  Shop   164 

Interior  View  of  Back  End  of  Shop   166 

Interior  Views  of  New  Shop   167,  169 

Jigger  Pumps  160 

Joining  Pipes   173 

Joint  for  Warming  Pan  Covc-r   116 

Kettles  (Tea),  Handles   51 

Kettle  Spouts   54 

Kettle,  Top  Seamed  on   67 

Kettle,  Oval  Top  Razed  Down     67 

Kettle  Rings  or  Cover  Seats   59^ 

Kettles,  Dimensions  and  Weight  of  Copper   70 

Kettles,  Fish.  103 

Kettles,  Turbot.   103 

Kettles,  Brewing  282 

Light  Coppers  mi  thing     6 

Lipped'  Mullers   75 

Lipped  Muller,  Old  Style   77 

Lipped  Saucepans   89 

Ladle  for  Dripping  Pan   119 


INDEX.  322 

Lift  Pamp  and  Fittings   155 

Laying  Out  Coils   277 

Liquor  Backs    272 

Laying  Off  Brim  of  Copper  309 

Measuring  Tinning   19 

Making  Air  Pipes  234 

Making  Beer  Mullers   71 

Making  Brass  Dome  Covers   262 

Making  Brass  Valve  Covers   254 

Making  Brazing  Pans  104 

Making  Brewing  Coppers   31,  282 

Making  Closet  Pans   45 

Making  Coal  Hods  118,  122 

Making  Coal  3coopets   126 

Making  Coal  Scoops     128 

Making  Coffee  Pots   83 

Making  Copper  Pipe        171 

Making  Copper  Stove  Pipe   22 

Making  Cranes  or  Syphons   151 

Making  Cross  Pieces  213 

Making  Dome  and  Pan  Coppers   300 

Making  Dome  Coppers  ; .  294 

Making  Double  Bends     227 

Making  Dripping  Pans   117 

Making  Dyers'  Coppers  308 

Making  Expansion  Joints    204 

Making  Fish  Kettles  102 

Making  Fish  Plates  103 

Making  Frying  Pans     42 

Making  Funnels   80 

Making  Glue  Pots   61 

Making  Hand  Bowls   35 

Making  Hollow  Spheres   241 

Making  Large  Bends  224 

Making  Outlets   199 

Making  Pumps   154 

Making  Saucepans   87 

Making  Short  Bends     232 

Making  Small  Bends   187 

Making  Socket  Handles   38 

Making  Stewpans   93 

Making  Stills   316 

Making  Stockpots     99 

Making  Sugar  Tieches   312 

Making  Tallow  Coppers   302 


323  INDEX. 

Making  Tea  Boilers   108 

Making  Tea-Kettle  Spouts   ....  51 

Making  Tea-Kettles   62 

Making  Tee  Pieces  , ,  .  . .    209 

Making  Templates   183 

Making  Three- Way  Pieces  and  Britch   211 

Making  Warming  Pans     112 

Making  Water  Balls   47 

Mountings  for  Copper  Goods    50 

North  Side  of  Old  Shop     9 

Nautilus  Scoop,  Brazed  and  Wrinkled  143 

New  Locomotive  Coppersmith's  Shop   167 

New  Way  of  Making  Bends   189 

Old  Fashioned  Whale  Oil  Lamp   15 

Old  Style  Muller   77 

Oval  Tea  Kettle,  Seamed  Top   67 

Oval  Tea  Kettle,  Razed  Down  Top   67 

Oval  Tea  Kettle,  Dimensions   70 

Oval  Pudding  Pot  89,  90 

Old  Fashioned  Stewpan   94 

Oil  Pumps   159 

Outlets   199 

Piece  Doubled  for  Mending  Split   18 

Piece  Put  Inside   18 

Piece  Put  in  Outside   18 

Piece  Riveted  In   19 

Piece  Cramped  and  Brazed  In   19 

Pieces  Dogged  for  Planishing   23 

Planishing  at  Block   24 

Punching  Holes  in  Sides   28 

Planishing  Hammer   29 

Pipe  Pattern   32 

Punching  Holes  in  Bottom    30 

Pitching  Spout  Collars    58 

Position  to  Sit  While  Planishing   64 

Pattern  for  Air  Pipe   237 

Pattern  for  Back  of  Tudor  Scoop   138 

Pattern  for  Boat  Scoop  146 

Pattern  for  Brazed  Nautilus  Body   143 

Pattern  for  Coal  Scoop  Bottom  and  Bridge   129 

Pattern  for  Coffee  Pot  Spout   85 

Pattern  for  Cross  Piece  214 

Pattern  for  Dome  Body   263 

Pattern  for  Dome  Crown  264 

Pattern  for  Dome  Quarter   290 


INDEX.  324 

Pattern  for  Dripping  Pan   120 

Pattern  for  Expansion  Joint  205 

Pattern  for  Flat  Bottom  Scoop   136 

Pattern  for  Foot  and  Back  of  Coal  Scoop   131 

Pattern  for  Frying  Pan   43 

Pattern  for  Funnel     81 

Pattern  for  Half  Ball    49 

Pattern  for  Helmet  Scoop  146 

Pattern  for  Made  Bend   190 

Pattern  for  Muller   73 

Pattern  for  Nautilus  Bridge     142 

Pattern  for  Nautilus  Scoop    138 

Pattern  for  Old  Style  Muller   77 

Pattern  for  Royal  Scoop   145 

Pattern  for  Socket  Handle     38 

Pattern  for  Still  Boiler   315 

Pattern  for  Tallow  Copper  Brim   306 

Pattern  for  Tea-Kettle  Spout   54 

Pattern  for  Tee  Piece  in  One  Piece    210 

Pattern  for  Warming  Pan  Body   114 

Peining  Hammer   85 

Pitcher  Cover  for  Muller    75 

Putting  in  Muller  Bottom   81 

Pudding  Pot  and  Cover   88 

Patent  Wrinkler  for  Raising   114 

Preserving  Pans,  How  to  Raise  Them   117 

Planishing  and  Smoothing     148 

Planishing  Hammers   149 

Photographs  of  London  and  South  Western  Shop  in  London  167,  169 

Planishing  Bends  189,  227 

Photographic  Views  of  Maudsley,  Sons  &  Field's  Coppersmith  Shop  220,  221 

Portable  Fire  Pot  and  Its  Uses   236 

Planishing  Pipe    237 

Patching  Pipes    196 

Photographic  View  of  Henry  &  Co.'s  Shop,  London,  England   269 

Planishing  Copper  Bottom.   288 

Preparing  Brim  of  Dyers'  Copper   309 

Racer  or  Marking  Gauge  205 

Repairing  and  Tinning   17 

Riveting  Together  Sides  of  Copper   28,  289 

Raising  Hammer     36 

Riveting  Hammer   36 

Razing  Down  Wrinkles   44 

Raising  Frying  Pans  on  Shank   43 

Raising  Water  Balls   49 


325  INDEX. 

Razing  Down  Tea  Kettle  Tops    62' 

Razing  Down  Pudding  P  jt  Bodies   88 

Raising  Up  Warming  Pan  Bodies   114 

Raising  Preserving  Pans   117 

Raising  Back  and  Bridge  of  Scoop   140 

Razing  Down  Half  of  Cross  Piece   213 

Raising  Hollow  Spheres  '   244 

Razing  Out  Bell  Tops  for  Valve  Covers  and  Chimneys    256 

Razing  Out  Valve  Cover  Foot  258 

Razing  Out  Dome  Cover  Foot   264 

Rivet  Card  Complete   309 

Rope  Grommet  for  Bending   185 

Smelting  Copper   4 

South  Side  of  Old  Shop   10  ' 

Stew  Pans,  Repairing     18 

Shell  Pieces,  Making  of   19 

Sal  Ammoniac  Wad   19 

Shell  Piece  Riveted  In   20 

Shell  Piece  Brazed  In   20 

Sides  of  Copper  Formed  ■   28 

Sides  Punched   28 

Spotting  Coppers   29 

Scrubbing  Rivets   29 

Showing  Bottom  of  Brewing  Copper  ,   32 

Side  Stake     86 

Side  of  Hand  Bowl   36 

Sides  of  Bowl  Working  to  Shape   37 

Socket  Ready  for  Flap   39- 

Stock  Pot  Handle   51 

Spout  Tools   55 

Solid  Copper  Tea  Kettle  Ring   6  ) 

Spout  Filling  and  Bending   55 

Saucepan  Handles   56 

Spout  Bending  Old  Way   57  . 

Spout  Bending  New  Way   57 

Showing  Kettle  Cover  in  Seat  of  Ring  ; . . .  66 

Spring  Faced  Planishing  Hammer   78 

Spirit  Measure   82 

Spout  and  Pattern    85 

Saucepan  and  Cover    ■   88 

Stewpans     93 

Stewpan  Handles    ,   94 

Stockpots,  Way  to  G-et  Sizes   99 

Stockpot,  Showing  Strainer   100 

Separate  Parts  of  Tea  Boilers   Ill 


INDEX.  326 

Section  of  Brazing  Pan  Cover. .  .    105 

Socket  Handle  for  Warming  Pan   116 

Spring  Planishing  Hammer   138 

Syphons    151 

Spring  Dog   236 

Screw  Dog   236 

Spring  Face  Detached  from  Hammer   73 

Soldering  Reed      155 

Swaging  and  Smoothing  Pipe    159 

Single  and  Double  Jiggers   160 

Standards  for  Holding  Pipe  172 

Soft  Soldering  Joints    180 

Seaming  in  Throat  and  Back  189 

Single  and  Double  Template  Board   191 

Shaping  Expansion  Joints      206 

Saddle  Forges   218,259 

Showing  First  Form  of  Half  Ball   244 

Solder,  Black   231 

Solder  for  Brass  and  How  to  Make  It   248 

Screw  Valve  for, Dome  and  Pan  Copper  302 

Sectional  View  of  Tallow  Copper   304 

Side  of  Copper  Ready  for  Riveting  290 

Still  with  Head  and  Worm  Complete   315 

Slinging  Bends  for  Brazing  225 

Tin  Not  to  be  Used  in  Brass  Solder   231 

Tea  Kettle  Handles   51 

Truing  Up  Sides  of  Copper   28 

Table  of  Dimensions  and  Capacity   33 

Tinning  Kitchen  Utensils   20 

Tinning  Stewpan  Rims  Outside   98 

Trough  and  Bar  for  Turning  Pipe   155 

Tanners'  Pump   156 

Taking  Templates     183 

Tee  Pieces   209 

Three  Way  Pieces    211 

Three-Section  Fire  Pot   229 

Thousand  Barrel  Copper  292 

Trestle  and  Mandrel  237 

Tools  for  Raising  Half  Balls   244 

Tallow  Coppers   302 

Time  Consumed  in  Repairing  Some  Copper  Jobs   302 

Tieches   312 

Uses  of  Copper   2^ 

Valve  Chimneys  253 

Valve  Covers   260 


327  INDEX. 

Valve  Cover  in  Parts  260 

Valve  Cover  Slung  at  Fire  260 

Washing  Coppers   26 

Way  to  Fit  in  Pipe  and  Cock   32 

Way  to  Put  Flaps  on  Handles   38 

Way  to  Hold  Socket  at  Fire     39 

Water  Balls   47 

Wisp  Used  for  Tinning   64 

Working  Throat  of  Tea^Kettle  Spout   54 

Wiring  Funnels   82 

Working  Cover  of  Brazing  Pan   105 

Well  of  Dripping  Pan   119 

Wooden  Former   134 

Working  Up  Back  and  Bridge  of  Scoop  140 

Way  to  Prepare  Patches   197 

Wiring  Bend  for  Brazing   225 

Wheel  and  Axle  for  Brazing  Coils   276 

Working  Oat  Dome  Foot  264 

Working  Up  Dome  Crown   265 

Working  in  Rivets  302,  311 


I 


